BOSTON 

A  GUIDE  BOOK 

BY  EDWIN  M- BACON 


CATHOLIC 

EDUCATIONAL 
ASSOCIATION 

1909 


GINN  3c  COMPANY 


BOSTON 

A  GUIDE-BOOK 

i 

By    EDWIN    M.   BACON 


WITH  IL 


Revised  Edition,  1908 


ATIONS  AND  MAPS 


\ 


Hancock  House!  ytfty    1737-1863 


GlN^N    &    COMPANY,    PUBLISHERS 
29    BEACON    STREET,    BOSTON 

TOe  Sttfrensettm  Press 


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*  Copyright,  1903 
By  Ginn  &  Company 


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ATLANTA:  DMiAS 

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ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED 
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NOV  1  8  »88 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Introductory    v 

The  Way  about  Town    ...  v 

Principal  Hotels  of  Boston      .  viii 

Theaters  in  Boston     ....  ix 

Convenient  Churches  in  Boston  ix 


Modern  Boston  .    .    . 

1 

Historical  Sketch     .     .     . 

1 

Boston  Proper      .... 

2 

i.  The  Central  District 

4 

2.  The  North  End     .     . 

54 

3.  The  Charlestown  District 

65 

4.  The  West  End      .     . 

68 

5.  The  Back  Bay  .     .     . 

74 

6.  The  South  End     .     . 

92 

7.  The  Outlying  Districts 

94 

East  Boston   .     .     . 

94 

South  Boston .     .     . 

95 

Roxbury  District     . 

95 

West  Roxbury  Districl 

96 

Dorchester  District 

97 

Brighton  District     . 

97 

The  Metropolitan  Region  98 

Cambridge  and  Harvard  .     .  98 

Brookline 109 

The  Newtons  and  Weston     .  116 

Newton  and  Wellesley      .     .  119 

Natick  and  Needham  .     .     .  123 

The  Southern  Newtons     .     .  124 

Waltham     .     .     .     .     .     .-.   ,  126 

Watertown      .     .     .     .     :     .  128 

Milton  and  the  Blue  Hills  :-..  136 

Quincy '.  ".'  *  iff' 

Dedham 137 

Winthrop  and  Revere       .     .  139 


Page 

Chelsea 142 

Somerville,  Medford,  and 

Maiden 143 

Winchester 145 

III.  Public  Parks  146 
Boston  City  System  .  .  .  146 
Metropolitan  System  .     .     .  148 

IV.  Day  Trips  from  Boston  152 
Lexington  and  Concord  .  .  152 
The  North  Shore     ....  159 

Lynn 159 

Nahant 159 

Saugus 159 

Marblehead 160 

Salem 160 

Salem  Itinerary    .     .     .  161 

Peabody 161 

Danvers 161 

Beverly 161 

Gloucester 161 

Rockport 161 

The  South  Shore    ....  167 

Hingham 167 

Cohasset 167 

Scituate 167 

Marshfield  ......  168 

Duxbury 168 

Kingston 168 

Plymouth 168 

V.  Excursions  and  Tours  .  171 

VI.  Important- -Points    of 

Interest  .    .     .     .     .     .  175 

Index 177 


PUBLISHERS'    NOTE 


The  chief  merit  of  any  guide  is  that  it  brings  the  history  of  its  subject 
to  the  present  moment.  Such  has  been  the  intent  in  the  preparation 
of  this  little  book.  It  is  something  more  than  a  guide  book  to  Boston : 
it  is  an  historical  itinerary,  a  progress  from  past  to  present.  Its  scope 
embraces,  besides  the  municipality  of  Boston  proper,  the  various  com- 
munities which  are  comprehended  in  the  term  "  Greater  Boston  " ;  his- 
torical places  and  literary  shrines  beyond  these  limits,  as  Salem, 
Plymouth,  and  Concord ;  the  North  Shore  and  the  South  Shore  of 
Massachusetts  Bay.  Care  has  been  taken  to  provide  the  visitor  with 
every  possible  aid  to  the  convenient  and  comfortable  exploration  of 
the  territory  treated.  Diagrams  and  trip  maps  are  scattered  through 
the  pages ;  the  typographical  arrangement,  with  the  use  of  varied  types 
to  emphasize  places,  points,  and  objects,  is  designed  to  make  the  mate- 
rial available  for  quick  reference  ;  the  text  is  profusely  illustrated ;  and 
at  the  back  of  the  book  are  a  series  of  plate  maps,  printed  in  colors  to 
render  them  the  more  distinct  in  detail.  In  the  mechanical  execution 
the  publishers  have  endeavored  to  present  a  tasteful  book,  in  shape  and 
appearance  convenient  and  attractive.  It  is  intended  in  all  respects  to 
be  the  standard  Boston  Guide  Book. 

Among  the  distinctive  and  superior  features  of  this  guide  are  the 
following : 

i.  The  material  is  original  and  has  been  obtained  by  reference  to 
original  sources  and  documents.  For  this  reason  this  guide  is  espe- 
cially authoritative  and  trustworthy. 

2.  The  eight  pages  of  color  maps  at  the  back  of  the  book,  and  the 
numerous  diagram  maps  inserted  in  the  text,  provide  unusually  adequate 
map  material,  at  once  convenient  and  exhaustive.  Those  who  are 
accustomed  to  spread  out  in  the  wind  the  large  folder  maps  commonly 
to  be  found  in  guide  books  of  this  character  will  doubtless  appreciate 
the  superiority  of  these  small  sectional  maps  and  diagrams. 

3.  In  other  respects  the  guide  is  made  most  convenient.  A  helpful 
table  of  contents,  the  logical  arrangement  of  the  material,  the  running 
titles,  and  above  all  a  complete  alphabetical  index,  attain  this  end  to  an 
admirable  degree.  Strangers  will  find  the  section  entitled  "  The  Way 
About  Town  "  (pp.  v  to  viii)  particularly  valuable. 


INTRODUCTORY 


THE   WAY   ABOUT   TOWN 


m  i 


</,-£ 


%S0°'  The  stranger  visiting  Boston  for  the  first  time  will 
find  the  city's  reputation  of  being  exceedingly  intricate 
and  tortuous  to  be  deserved.  But  he  may  quickly 
"orient"  himself  and  get  a  general  idea  of  the  direc- 
tions of  the  streets  and  of  the  ways  of  reaching  desired 
points,  if  he  will  grasp  at  the  outset  three  important 
facts,  as  follows  : 


■^  m 


I.  The  well-worn  term  "The  Hub"  applies  to  down- 
town Boston  in  no  mere  fanciful  sense.  Roughly,  the 
streets  of  this  confusing  district  form  a  sort  of  wheel.  The  hub  of  the  wheel, 
however,  is  not  one  fixed  point,  for  the  streets  radiate  from  several  squares 
lying  between  the  State  House  on  Beacon  Hill  and  the  Old  State  House  on 
State  Street.  Plates  II  and  III  at  the  back  of  the  book  will  show  at  a  glance 
that  the  figure  of  the  wheel  applies  with  sufficient  exactness  to  warrant  its  use. 
In  fact  the  stranger  will  save  himself  many  steps  and  much  time  by  ascertaining 
at  once  the  names  and  directions  of  a  few  main  thoroughfares,  among  them 
State  Street,  Milk  Street,  Washington  Street,  Tremont  Street,  Beacon  Street, 
Summer  Street,  Hanover  Street,  and  Atlantic  Avenue. 


B  EACON 


II.  The  Back  Bay  District  is  arranged  chiefly  in  the  form  of  a  rectangle, 

its  eastern  border  united  to  the  Central  District  described  above  at  the  Public 
Garden.     The  accompanying  diagram  indicates  its  general  form,  and  points  out 

v 


vi  THE  WAY  ABOUT  TOWN 

the  principal  connections  with  down-town  Boston.  For  details  of  the  Back  Bay 
District,  see  Plate  I  at  the  back  of  the  book. 

III.  There  are  in  Boston  several  important  points  of  arrival  or  departure 
in  which  all  routes  center.  The  visitor  cannot  go  far  astray  if  he  makes  him- 
self familiar  with  these  few  landmarks.     The  most  essential  are  the  following ; 

Copley  Square.  Through  this  square,  Boylston  Street,  running  nearly  east 
and  west,  is  the  thoroughfare  for  trolley  cars :  east-bound,  passing  through 
the  Subway,  to  connections  with  the  elevated  trains  (at  Boylston  Street  or  Park 
Street  stations)  for  Charlestown  and  all  the  northern  suburbs,  as  well  as  to  the 
North  Station,  and  (by  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit)  the  various  ferries,  steamer 
wharves  (for  harbor  and  coastwise  points),  and  the  South  Station;  also  east- 
bound  cars  which,  avoiding  the  Subway,  run  to  the  West  End  and  to  Atlantic 
Avenue  and  the  South  Station  through  the  business  district ;  and  west-bound,  to 
Brookline,  Brighton,  Newton,  Natick,  Cambridge,  Somerville  (Spring  Hill), 
Arlington,  Watertown,  and  Waltham.  Huntington  Avenue,  diverging  to  the 
southwest  from  Boylston  Street  at  this  square,  is  the  artery  for  cars  to  Dorches- 
ter, Jamaica  Plain,  Forest  Hills,  Milton,  Neponset,  and  Quincy,  as  well  as  an 
alternative  route  for  some  of  the  other  suburbs  reached  by  Boylston  Street. 
Trinity  Place,  to  the  south  of  the  square,  leads  direct  to  the  New  York  Central 
Trinity  Place  station  (one  block),  where  all  outgoing  trains  stop,  and  at  Hunt- 
ington Avenue  and  Irvington  Street  (one  block  southwest  of  the  square)  is  the 
Huntington  Avenue  station  of  the  same  line,  where  all  inward-bound  trains  stop. 
Dartmouth  Street  leads  to  the  Back  Bay  station  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven 
&  Hartford  Railroad  (one  block  south  of  the  square),  the  stopping  place  for  all 
trains  in  both  directions. 

In  or  about  Copley  Square  are  grouped  many  important  buildings,  institutions, 
churches,  and  hotels. 

The  Intersection  of  Washington,  Summer,  and  Winter  Streets,  in  the 
middle  of  the  down-town  business  quarter.  Washington  Street  is  not  only  the 
great  artery  of  retail  traffic  but  it  is  the  main  highway  of  travel  north  and 
south  through  the  older  part  of  the  city.  Winter  Street  is  but  one  block  long 
and  connects  with  Tremont  Street  at  the  Park  Street  station  of  the  Subway ; 
Summer  Street  is  practically  a  continuation  of  it  eastward  to  the  South  Station 
and  the  water. 

On  Washington  Street  north-bound  surface  cars  may  be  taken  for  Charlestown, 
East  Boston  and  Chelsea  Ferries,  East  Cambridge,  the  North  Station,  and  the 
West  End.  South-bound  cars  for  South  Boston,  Dorchester,  Milton,  Neponset, 
and  various  sections  of  the  Roxbury  and  West  Roxbury  districts  may  be  taken 
either  at  the  corner  or  just  below  on  Summer  Street.  (The  railway  company's 
starter  on  the  corner  will  give  all  information  needed.) 

From  this  center  it  is  but  two  blocks  on  Washington  Street,  north,  to  the  Old 
South  Meetinghouse ;  two  blocks  farther  to  the  Old  State  House,  at  the  head  of 
State  Street.  It  is  in  proximity  to  the  theater  quarter  and  is  near  a  nest  of 
hotels. 

Park  Street,  also  in  the  down-town  business  quarter.  Here  are  the  cen- 
tral stations  of  the  Subway  at  the  head  of  the  Common.  At  the  head  of  the 
short  street  (a  single  block  in  length)   is  the  State  House;  at  its  foot  is  the 


THE   WAY   ABOUT  TOWN 


thoroughfare  of  Tremont  Street,  running  south  and  north,  from  which  cross 
streets  at  irregular  intervals  lead  easterly  to  various  parts  of  the  general  business 
districts. 

Scollay  Square,  at  the  junction  of  Tremont  and  Court  streets,  Cornhill, 
and  Tremont  Row.  A  central  point  from  which  the  northern  parts  of  the  city 
are  reached.  Here  cars  for  the  North  Station  and  the  northern  suburbs  are 
taken  in  the  Subway.  Surface  cars  cross  the  northern  end  of  the  square  and 
pass  down  Hanover  Street,  some  bound  for  the  North  Station,  others  for  ferries. 
State  Street  is  a  block  east  of  this  square. 

The  North  Station,  Causeway  Street.  This  is  occupied  by  the  several 
divisions  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  system,  whence  trains  are  taken  for 
all  points  north,  east,  and  west. 

The  South  Station,  Dewey 
Square.  Occupied  by  the  New 
York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 
and  the  New  York  Central  rail- 
roads, whence  trains  are  taken 
for  the  south  and  west. 

General  Information.  Time 
tables  and  details  of  routes 
of  the  many  and  various 
trolley  lines  in  the  city,  and 
connections  with  other  lines, 
are  issued  by  the  Boston 
Elevated  Railway  Company. 
The  several  railroad  com- 
panies also  furnish  elaborate 
information  in  illustrated 
folders  and  other  forms  as 
to  points  of  interest  in  New 
England  along  their  lines  reached  from  Boston.  These  can  be  obtained 
by  the  visitor  at  the  down-town  railroad  offices.  At  the  railroad  stations 
are  Information  Bureaus,  at  which  the  stranger  should  freely  apply  for 
any  directions  desired.  When  about  the  city  or  on  street  cars  similar 
application  may  be  made  with  confidence  to  policemen  and  conductors. 
The  politeness  of  these  officers  is  proverbial. 


bOUTH   Stati 


vin  HOTELS 


PRINCIPAL   HOTELS    OF   BOSTON  i 

Adams  House,  553  Washington,  near  Boylston  Street,  Eu.  plan.    Rooms,  #1.50 

to  #4 ;  with  bath,  #2.50  to  #5. 
American  House,  Hanover,  near  Elm  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  #1.50;  for  two 

persons  in  one  room,  $2. 
Bellevue,  Beacon,  near  Somerset  Street,  Eu.      Rooms,  #1.50  upward;  with 

bath,  #3  upward. 
Boston  Tavern,  Washington,  near  Bromfield  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Brunswick,  Boylston  and  Clarendon  streets,  Am.  and  Eu.     Am.,  $4  upward ; 

Eu.,  rooms,  $1.50  upward. 
Buckminster,  Beacon  Street,  corner  of  Brookline  Avenue,  Back  Bay,  Eu. 
Castle  Square,  Tremont  and  Chandler  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Cecil,  Washington,  near  Boylston  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Clarendon,  Tremont,  near  Clarendon  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Clark's,  Washington,  near  Boylston  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Commonwealth,  Bowdoin  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Copley   Square,   Huntington  Avenue  and  Exeter  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $z 

upward. 
Crawford  House,   Court  and  Brattle  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.     For  two  per- 
sons in  one  room,  $2. 
Essex,  Dewey  Square,  opposite  South  Station,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.50  upward. 
Langham,  Washington  and  Worcester  streets,  Am.  and  Eu.     Am.,  $2  upward ; 

Eu.,  rooms,  $1  upward. 
Lenox,  Boylston  and  Exeter  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.50  upward. 
Netherlands,  Boylston,  near  Washington  Street,  Eu.    Rooms,  $1  upward; 

with  bath,  $2  upward. 
Norfolk  House,  Eliot  Square,  Roxbury  District,  Am.     $2.50  upward. 
Nottingham,    Huntington   Avenue    and    Blagden    Street,   Eu.      Rooms,   $1 

upward. 
Oxford,  Huntington  Avenue,  opposite  Exeter  Street,  Am.  and  Eu.    Am.,  $2.50 

upward;  Eu.,  rooms,  $1  upward. 
Parker  House,  School  and  Tremont  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.50  upward.    • 
Plaza,    Columbus  Avenue  and  Holyoke  Street,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.      For  two 

persons  in  one  room,  $1.50. 
Quincy  House,  Brattle   Street  and   Brattle  Square,  Am.  and  Eu.     Am.,  #3 

upward ;  Eu.,  $1  upward. 
Revere  House,  Bowdoin  Square,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Somerset,  Commonwealth  Avenue  and  Charlesgate  East,  Eu.     Rooms,  $2.50 

upward. 
Thorndike,  Boylston  and  Church  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1  upward. 
Touraine,  Boylston  and  Tremont  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  #3  to  $6  single ;  $4  to 

#8  double. 
United  States  Hotel,  Beach,  Lincoln,  and  Kingston  streets,  Am.  and  Eu. 

Am.,  $2.50  upward;  Eu.,  rooms,  $1. 
Vendome,  270  Commonwealth  Avenue,  corner  of  Dartmouth  Street,  Am.,   $5 

upward. 
Victoria,  Newbury  and  Dartmouth  streets,  Eu.     Rooms,  $2  upward. 
Westminster,  Trinity  Place,  just  out  of  Copley  Square,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.50 

upward. 
Young's  Hotel,  Court  Street  and  Court  Square,  Eu.     Rooms,  $1.50  upward. 

1Eu.,  European  plan  ;  Am.,  American  plan. 


CONVENIENT  CHURCHES 


THEATERS    IN   BOSTON 

Boston  Theater,  Washington,  near  West  Street. 

Bowdoin  Square,  Court,  near  Chardon  Street. 

Castle  Square,  Tremont  and  Chandler  streets. 

Colonial,  Boylston,  near  Tremont  Street. 

Columbia,  Washington  and  Motte  streets. 

Globe,  Washington  and  Beach  streets. 

Grand  Opera  House,  Washington,  south  of  Dover  Street. 

Hollis  Street,  Hollis,  between  Washington  and  Tremont  streets. 

Keith's,  Washington,  near  West  Street ;  entrance  also  on  Tremont  Street. 

Majestic,  Tremont,  near  Boylston  Street. 

Orpheum,  Washington  Street  and  Hamilton  Place. 

Park,  Washington,  near  Boylston  Street. 

Tremont,  Tremont,  near  Mason  Street. 

The  historic  Boston  Museum  closed  finally  on  the  evening  of  June  i,  1903, 
after  a  long  career  identified  with  many  prominent  actors. 

There  are  also  in  Boston  a  number  of  theaters  devoted  to  vaudeville  and 
burlesque,  duly  advertised  in  the  daily  papers. 


CONVENIENT  CHURCHES 

Arlington  Street  Church,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Arlington,  corner  of 
Boylston  Street,  Back  Bay. 

Barnard  Memorial,  Congregational  Unitarian,  10  Warrenton  Street,  near 
Washington. 

Beacon  Universalist  Church,  Universalist,  Beacon  Street,  across  the  Brook- 
line  line,  at  Coolidge  Corner. 

Boston  Society  of  the  New  Jerusalem  Church,  New  Church  (Sweden- 
bo  rgian),  136  Bowdoin,  near  Beacon  Street,  West  End. 

Bromfield  Street  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  Bromfield  Street. 

Bulfinch  Place  Church,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Bulfinch  Place,  West 
End. 

Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross,  Roman  Catholic,  Washington,  corner  of 
Maiden  Street,  South  End. 

Central  Church,  Congregational  Trinitarian,  Berkeley,  corner  of  Newbury 
Street,  Back  Bay. 

Christ  Church,  Protestant  Episcopal,  Salem  Street,  North  End. 

Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Perpetual  Help,  Roman  Catholic,  1545  Tre- 
mont Street,  Roxbury  District. 

Church  of  St.  John  the  Evangelist,  Protestant  Episcopal,  Bowdoin  Street. 

Church  of  the  Advent,  Protestant  Episcopal,  30  Brimmer  Street,  West  End. 

Church  of  the  Disciples,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Jersey  and  Peterboro 
streets,  Back  Bay  Fens. 

Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity  (German),  Roman  Catholic,  140  Shawmut 
Avenue,  South  End. 

Church  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  Roman  Catholic,  Harrison  Ave- 
nue, corner  of  East  Concord  Street,  South  End. 

Church  of  the  Messiah,  Protestant  Episcopal,  St.  Stephen,  corner  of 
Gainsborough  Street,  Back  Bay. 

Clarendon  Street  Church,  Baptist,  Tremont,  corner  of  Montgomery 
Street,  South  End. 

Emmanuel  Church,  Protestant  Episcopal,  15  Newbury  Street,  Back  Bay. 


CONVENIENT  CHURCHES 


First  Baptist  Church,  Clarendon  Street,  corner  of  Commonwealth  Avenue, 

Back  Bay. 
First  Church,  Methodist  Episcopal,  Temple  Street,  West  End. 
First  Church   in  Boston,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Marlborough,  corner 

of  Berkeley  Street,  Back  Bay. 
First  Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  Falmouth,  Norway,  and  St.  Paul  streets, 

Back  Bay. 
First  Congregational  Society,  Unitarian,  Centre  Street,  Jamaica  Plain. 
First  Parish  in  Dorchester,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Meetinghouse  Hill, 

Dorchester  District. 
First  Presbyterian  Church,  Berkeley  Street,  corner  of  Columbus  Avenue, 

South  End. 
First   Religious   Society,  Congregational   Unitarian,  Eliot  Square,   Rox- 

bury  District. 
First  Spiritual   Temple,  Spiritualist,  Newbury,  corner  of  Exeter   Street, 

Back  Bay. 
Friends'  Meeting  House,  210  Townsend  Street,  Roxbury  District. 
King's  Chapel,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Tremont,  corner  of  School  Street. 
Mt,  Vernon  Church,  Congregational   Trinitarian,   Beacon,  corner  of  Massa- 
chusetts Avenue,  Back  Bay. 
Notre  Dame  des  Victoires  (French),  Roman  Catholic,  25  Isabella  Street, 

South  End. 
Ohabei  Sholom,  Jewish,  11  Union  Park  Street,  South  End. 
Old  South  Church,  Congregational  Trinitarian,  Dartmouth,  corner  of  Boyl- 

ston  Street,  Back  Bay. 
Park  Street  Church,  Congregational  Trinitarian,  Tremont,  corner  of  Park 

Street. 
Parker  Memorial,  Congregational  Unitarian,  11  Appleton  Street,  South  End. 
People's  Temple,  Methodist  Episcopal,  Columbus  Avenue,  corner  of  Berkeley 

Street,  South  End. 
Ruggles  Street  Baptist  Church,  163  Ruggles  Street,  Roxbury  District. 
St.  John  the  Evangelist,  Protestant  Episcopal,  Bowdoin  Street,  West  End. 
St.  Leonard's  of  Port  Morris  (Italian),  Roman  Catholic,  Prince  Street, 

North  End. 
St.  Paul's  Church,  Protestant  Episcopal,  136  Tremont  Street. 
Second  Church,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Copley  Square,  Back  Bay. 
Second    Universalist    Church,   Columbus  Avenue,   corner   of    Clarendon 

Street,  South  End. 
Shawmut   Church,   Congregational   Trinitarian,    Tremont,    corner  of   West 

Brookline  Street,  South  End. 
South  Congregational  Church,  Congregational  Unitarian,  Newbury,  cor- 
ner of  Exeter  Street,  Back  Bay. 
Tabernacle  Baptist  Church,  Bowdoin  Square,  West  End. 
Temple  Israel,  Jewish,  Commonwealth  Avenue,  corner  of  Blandford  Street, 

Back  Bay. 
Tremont    Street   Methodist   Episcopal   Church,   Tremont,  corner  of 

West  Concord  Street,  South  End. 
Tremont  Temple,  Baptist,  82  Tremont  Street. 
Trinity  Church,  Protestant  Episcopal,  Copley  Square,  Back  Bay. 
Union  Church,  Congregational  Trinitarian,  485  Columbus  Avenue,  South  End. 
Warren  Avenue  Church,  Baptist,  Warren  Avenue,  corner  of  West  Canton 

Street. 


BOSTON:    A   GUIDE    BOOK 


I.    MODERN    BOSTON 


HISTORICAL   SKETCH 


HE  town  of  Boston  was  founded  in  1630  by  English 
colonists  sent  out  by  the  "  Governor  and  Company  of 
the  Massachusetts  Bay  in  New  England,"  under  the 
lead  of  John  Winthrop,  the  second  governor  of  the  Bay 
Colony,  who  arrived  at  Salem  in  June  of  that  year 
with  the  charter  of  1629.  It  originated  in  an  order 
passed  by  the  Court  of  Assistants  sitting  in  the  "  Gov- 
ernor's House  "  in  Charlestown,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Charles  River,  first  selected  as  their  place  of  settle- 
ment. This  order  was  adopted  September  17  (7  O.  S.), 
and  established  three  towns  at  once  by  the  simple 
dictum,  "  that  Trimountane  shalbe  called  Boston  ;  Mat- 
tapan,  Dorchester ;  &  ye  towne  vpon  Charles  Ryver,  Waterton."  "  Tri- 
mountane "  consisted  of  a  peninsula  with  three  hills,  the  highest  (the 
present  Beacon  Hill),  as  seen  from  Charlestown,  presenting  three  distinct 
peaks.  Hence  this  name,  given  it  by  the  colonists  from  Endicott's  com- 
pany at  Salem,  who  had  preceded  the  Winthrop  colonists  in  the  Charles- 
town settlement.  The  Indian  name  was  "  Shawmutt,"  or  "  Shaumut," 
which  signified,  according  to  some  authorities,  "  Living  Waters,"  but  according 
to  others,  "  Where  there  is  going  by  boat,"  or  "  Near  the  neck."  The  name  of 
Boston  was  selected  in  recognition  of  the  chief  men  of  the  company,  who  had 
come  from  Boston  in  England,  and  particularly  Isaac  Johnson,  "  the  greatest 
furtherer  of  the  Colony,"  who  died  at  Charlestown  on  the  day  of  the  naming. 
The  peninsula  was  chosen  for  the  chief  settlement  primarily  because  of  its 
springs,  the  colonists  at  Charlestown  suffering  disastrously  from  the  use  of  brack- 
ish water.  The  Rev.  William  Blaxton,  the  pioneer  white  settler  on  the  penin- 
sula (coming  about  1625),  then  living  alone  in  his  cottage  on  the  highest  hill 
slope,  "  came  and  acquainted  the  governor  of  an  excellent  spring  there,  withal 
inviting  him  and  soliciting  him  thither." 

The  three-hilled  peninsula  originally  contained  only  about  783  acres,  cut 
into  by  deep  coves,  estuaries,  inlets,  and  creeks.  It  faced  the  harbor,  at  the  west 
end  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  into  which  empty  the  Charles  and  Mystic  rivers.  It 
was  pear-shaped,  a  little  more  than  a  mile  wide  at  its  broadest,  and  less  than 
three  miles  long,  the  stem,  or  neck,  connecting  it  with  the  mainland  (at  what 
became  Roxbury)  a  mile  in  length,  and  so  low  and  narrow  that  parts  were  not 


BOSTON  PROPER 


infrequently  overflowed  by  the  tides.  By  the  reclamation  of  the  broad  marshes 
and  flats  from  time  to  time,  and  the  filling  of  the  great  coves,  the  original  area 
of  783  acres  has  been  expanded  to  1801  acres;  and  where  it  was  the  narrowest 
it  is  now  the  widest.  Additional  territory  has  been  acquired  by  the  development 
of  East  Boston  and  South  Boston,  and  by  the  annexation  of  adjoining  cities 
and  towns.  Thus  the  area  of  the  city  has  become  more  than  thirty  times  as 
large  as  that  of  the  peninsula  on  which  the  town  was  built.  Its  bounds  now 
embrace  27,251  acres,  or  42.6  squa  e 


miles.  Its  extreme  length,  from  north 
to  south,  is  eleven  miles,  and  its  ex- 
treme breadth,  from  east  to  west,  nir  e 
miles.  While  the  Colonial  town  w?  s 
confined  to  the  little  peninsula,  is 
jurisdiction  at  first  extended  over  a 
large  territory,  which  embraced  *■'  e 
present  cities  and  towns  of  Che  a 
and  Revere  on  the  north,  and  Broc  - 
line,  Quincy,  Braintree,  and  Ra  - 
dolph  on  the  west  and  south.  Sd 
there  was  quite  a  respectable  "  Greater 
Boston"  in  those  old  first  days.  The 
metropolitan  proportions  continued 
till  1640,  and  were  not  entirely  reduce  1 
to  the  limits  of  the  peninsula  and 
certain  harbor  islands  till  1739. 

East  Boston  is  comprised  in  tw) 
harbor  islands:  Noddle's  Islanc, 
which  was  "layd  to  Boston"  in  163;, 
and  Breed's  (earlier  Hog)  Island, 
annexed  in  1635.  South  Boston  was 
formerly  Dorchester  Neck,  a  part  of 
the  town  of  Dorchester,  annexed  in 
1804.  The  city  of  Roxbury  (named  as  a  town  October  8,  1630)  was  annexed 
in  1868 ;  the  town  of  Dorchester  (named  in  1630  in  the  order  naming  Boston), 
in  1870;  and  in  1874  the  city  of  Charlestown  (founded  as  a  town  July  4,  1629), 
the  town  of  Brighton  (incorporated  1807),  and  the  town  of  West  Roxbury 
(incorporated  185 1)  were  by  one  act  added.  These  annexed  municipalities 
retain  their  names  with  the  term  "  District "  added  to  each.  Boston  remained 
under  town  government,  with  a  board  of  selectmen,  till  1822.  It  was  incorpo- 
rated a  city,  February  23  of  that  year,  after  several  ineffectual  attempts  to  change 
the  system. 


Old  and  New  Boston 


BOSTON  PROPER 

The  term  "Boston  Proper"  is  customarily  used  to  designate  the 
original  city  exclusive  of  the  annexed  parts ;  but  for  the  purposes 
of  this  Guide  we  comprehend  in  the  term  the  entire  municipality,  as 


SECTIONS   OF  THE   CITY  3 

distinguished  from  the  allied  cities  and  towns,  closely  identified  with  it 
in  business  and  social  relations,  but  yet  independent  political  corpora- 
tions. Together  with  the  municipality  these  allied  cities  and  towns 
constitute  what  is  colloquially  known  as  Greater  Boston.  This  metro- 
politan community  is  officially  recognized  at  present  only  in  two  state 
departments :  the  Metropolitan  Parks  and  the  consolidated  Metropoli- 
tan Water  and  Sewerage  Departments  ;  and  in  part  in  the  Boston  Postal 
District  established  by  the  Post  Office  Department.  Of  these  several 
districts  the  Metropolitan  Parks  District  is  the  largest,  comprising  Bos- 
ton and  thirty-eight  cities  and  towns  within  a  radius  of  twelve  miles 
from  the  City  Hall,  having  a  combined  population  of  1,168,950  (cen- 
sus, 1900).  The  Metropolitan  Water  District  includes  seventeen  cities 
and  towns ;  the  Metropolitan  Sewerage  District,  twenty-four ;  and  the 
Boston  Postal  District,  ten.  The  "  Boston  Basin,"  however,  is  regarded 
as  constituting  the  true  bounds  of  "  Greater  Boston."  This  includes  a 
territory  of  some  fifteen  miles  in  width,  lying  between  the  bay  on  the  east, 
the  range  of  Blue  Hills  on  the  south,  and  the  ridges  of  the  Wellington 
Hills  sweeping  from  Waltham  on  the  west  around  toward  Cape  Ann  on 
the  north.  It  now  embraces  thirty-six  cities  and  towns,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  1,164,171.     The  population  of  Boston  alone  (1905)  is  595,380. 

The  present  city  is  divided  by  custom  long  established  into  several 
distinct  sections.     These  are  : 

The  Central  District  or  General  Business  Quarter 

The  North  End 

The  West  End 

The  South  End 

The  Back  Bay  Quarter 

The  Brighton  District,  on  the  west  side 

The  Roxbury  District,  on  the  south 

The  West  Roxbury  District,  on  the  southwest 

The  Dorchester  District,  on  the  southeast 

The  Charlestown  District,  on  the  north 

East  Boston  on  its  two  islands,  on  the  northeast 

South  Boston  projecting  into  the  harbor,  on  the  east 

The  Business  Quarters  now  occupy  not  only  the  Central  District,  but 
extend  over  most  of  the  North  End,  parts  of  the  West  End  and  of 
the  South  End,  and  penetrate  even  the  Back  Bay  Quarter,  laid  out  in 
comparatively  modern  times  (1 860-1 886),  where  the  bay  had  been,  as 
the  fairest  residential  quarter  of  the  city  and  the  place  for  its  finest 
architectural  monuments. 


BOSTON  PROPER 


i.    The  Central  District 


REta 

nxcH 
Wxzmg 

IMF 


The  Central  District  (see  Plates  II  and  III) 
is  of  first  interest  to  the  visitor,  for  here  are 
most    of   the  older  historic   landmarks.      This 
small  quarter  of  the  present  city,  together  with 
the    North    End,    embraces    that   part   of    the 
original  peninsula  to  which  the  historic  town — 
Colonial,  Provincial,  and  Revolutionary  Boston 
■ — was  practically  confined.     The  town 
of  1630  was  begun  along  the  irregular 
water  front,  the  principal  houses  being 
placed  round  about  the  upper  part  of 
what  is  now  State  Street,  modern  Bos- 
ton's financial  center,  and  on  or  near 
the  neighboring  Dock  Square,  back  of 
the  present  Faneuil  Hall,  where  was  the 
first  Town  Dock,  occupying  nearly  all  of 
the  present  North  Market  Street,  in  the 
"  Great   Cove."     The  square  originally 
at  the  head  of  State  Street  (first  Market, 
then  King  Street),  in  the  middle  of  which 
now  stands  the  Old  State  House,  was  the  first  center  of  town  life.     At 
about  this  point,  accordingly,  our  explorations  naturally  begin. 

State  Street  Square  and  the  Old  State  House.  Our  starting  place  is 
the  present  State-Street  Square,  which  the  Old  State  House  faces. 
This  itself  is  one  of  the  most  notable  historic  spots  in  Boston.  For 
the  first  quarter-century  of  Colony  life  the  entire  square,  including  the 
space  occupied  by  the  Old  State  House,  was  the  public  marketstead. 
Thursday  was  market  day, — the  day  also  of  the  "Thursday  Lecture" 
by  the  ministers.  Early  (1648)  semiannual  fairs  here,  in  June  and 
October,  were  instituted,  each  holding  a  market  for  two  or  three  days. 
Here  were  first  inflicted  the  drastic  punishments  of  offenders  against 
the  rigorous  laws,  and  here  unorthodox  literature  was  burned. 

The  Stocks,  the  Whipping  Post,  and  the  Pillory  were  earliest  placed 
here.  When  the  town  was  a  half-century  old  a  Cage,  for  the  confine- 
ment and  exposure  of  violators  of  the  rigid  Sunday  laws,  was  added  to 
these  penal  instruments.  In  the  Revolutionary  period  the  Stocks  stood 
near  the  northeast  corner  of  the  Old  State  House,  with  the  Whipping 
Post  hard  by ;  while  the  Pillory  when  used  was  set  in  the  middle  of  the 
square  between  the  present  Congress  Street  (first  Leverett's  Lane)  on 
the  south  side  and  Exchange  Street  (first  Shrimpton's  Lane,  later  Royal 


STATE   STREET  SQUARE  5 

Exchange  Lane)  on  the  north.  The  Whipping  Post  lingered  here  till 
the  opening  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

This  square  continued  to  be  the  gathering  place  of  the  populace  from 
the  Colonial  through  the  Province  period  on  occasion  of  momentous 
events.  It  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  people  in  the  "  bloodless  revolu- 
tion" of  April,  1689,  when  the  government  of  Andros  was  overthrown. 
In  the  Stamp  Act  excitement  of  1765  a  stamp  fixed  upon  a  pole  was 
solemnly  brought  here  by  a  representative  of  the  "  Sons  of  Liberty " 
and  fastened  into'  the  town  Stocks,  after  which  it  was  publicly  burned 
by  the  "executioner."  On  the  evening  of  March  5,  1770,  the  so-called 
Boston  Massacre,  the  fatal  collision  between  the  populace  and  the  sol- 
diery, occurred  here,  the  site  being  indicated  by  a  tablet  on  the  building 
at  the  Exchange  Street  cofner,  northwest. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  original  marketstead,  by  the  present  Devon- 
shire Street  (first  Pudding  Lane),  where  now  is  the  modern  Brazer's 
Building  (27  State  Street),  was  the  first  meetinghouse,  a  rude  structure 
of  mud  walls  and  thatched  roof.  This  also  served  through  its  existence 
of  eight  years  for  Colonial  purposes,  as  the  carved  inscription  above  the 
entrance  of  Brazer's  Building  relates  : 

Site  of  the  First  Meetinghouse  in  Boston,  built  a.d.  1632. 
Preachers:  John  Wilson,  John  Eliot,  John  Cotton. 
Used  before  1640  for  town  meetings  and  for 
sessions  of  the  General  Court  of  the  Colony. 

At  the  upper  end  of  this  side  of  the  marketstead,  extending  to  Wash- 
ington Street  (first  The  High  Street),  were  the  house  and  garden  lot  of 
Captain  Robert  Keayne,  charter  member  and  first  commander  of  the  first 
"Military  Company  of  the  Massachusetts"  (founded  1637,  chartered 
1638),  from  which  developed  the  still  flourishing  "Ancient  and  Honor- 
able Artillery  Company,"  the  oldest  military  organization  in  the  country. 
A  century  later,  on  the  Washington  Street  corner,  was  Daniel  Henchman's 
bookshop,  in  which  Henry  Knox,  afterward  the  Revolutionary  general 
and  Washington's  friend,  learned  his  trade  and  ultimately  succeeded  to 
the  business.  When  the  British  regulars  were  quartered  on  the  town, 
in  1 768-1 770,  the  Main  Guardhouse  was  on  this  side,  directly  opposite 
the  south  door  of  the  Old  State  House,  with  the  two  fieldpieces  pointed 
toward  this  entrance. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  marketstead,  —  the  present  Washington 
Street,  —  nearly  opposite  Captain  Keayne's  lot,  was  the  second  meet- 
inghouse, built  in  1640,  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  Rogers  Building 
(209  Washington  Street).  This  was  used  for  all  civic  purposes,  as  well 
as  religious,  through  eighteen  years. 


CENTRAL  DISTRICT 


It  stood  till  1 711,  when  it  was  destroyed  in  the  "Great  Fire"  (the  eighth 
"  Great  Fire  "  in  the  young  town)  of  October  that  year,  with  one  hundred  other 
buildings  in  the  neighborhood.  Its  successor,  on  the  same  spot,  was  the  "  Brick 
Meetinghouse  "  which  remained  for  almost  a  century. 

North  of  the  second  meetinghouse  site,  where  is  now  the  Sears 
Building  (199  Washington  Street),  was  the  house  of  John  Leverett,  after- 
ward Governor  Leverett  (1673).  On  the  opposite  corner,  now  covered 
by  the  Ames  Building  (Washington  and  Court  streets),  was  the  home- 
stead of  Henry  Dunster,  first  president  of  Harvard  College. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  marketstead,  near  the  east  corner  of  the 
present  Devonshire  Street,  was  the  glebe  of  the  first  minister  of  the 
first  church,  the  Rev.  John  Wilson,  with  his  house,  barn,  and  two  gar- 
dens. His  name  was  perpetuated  in 
Wilson's  Lane,  which  was  cut  through 
his  garden  plot  in  1640,  and  which  in 
turn  was  absorbed  in  the  widened 
Devonshire  Street. 

Looking  again  across  to  the  south 
side,  we  see  the  site  of  Governor  Win- 
throp's  first  house,  covered  by  the  ex- 
pansive Exchange  Building  (53  State 
Street).  It  stood  on  or  close  to  the 
ground  occupied  by  the  entrance  hall 
of  the  building. 

This  was  the  governor's  town  house  for 
thirteen  years  from  the  settlement.  Thence 
Doorway,  Exchange  Building  he  removed  to  his  last  Boston  home,  the 
mansion  which  stood  next  to  the  Old  South 
Meetinghouse.  The  Jirst  General  Court  —  the  incipient  Legislature  —  ever  held 
in  America,  October  19,  1630,  may  have  sat  in  the  governor's  first  house,  the 
frame  of  which  was  brought  here  from  Cambridge,  where  the  governor  first 
proposed  building. 

At  the  corner  of  Kilby  Street  (first  Mackerel  Lane),  where  the 
Exchange  Building  ends,  stood  the  Bunch-of-Grapes  Tavern  of  Provin- 
cial times,  with  its  sign  of  a  gilded  carved  cluster  of  grapes,  the  pop- 
ular resort  of  the  High  Whigs  in  the  prerevolutionary  period.  It 
dated  from  1711,  and  was  preceded  by  a  Colonial  "ordinary,"  as  tav- 
erns were  then  called,  of  1640  date.  In  the  street  before  the  Bunch- 
of-Grapes'  doors,  the  lion  and  unicorn,  with  other  emblems  of  royalty 
and  signs  of  Tories  that  had  been  torn  from  their  places  during  the  cele- 
bration of  the  news  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence  in  July,  1776, 
were  burned  in  a  great  bonfire. 


STATE  STREET  SQUARE 


The  Bunch-of-G rapes  was  a  famous  tavern  of  its  time.  In  1750  Captain 
Francis  Goelet,  from  England,  on  a  commercial  visit  to  the  town,  recorded  in 
his  diary  that  it  was  "  noted  for  the  best  punch  house  in  Boston,  resorted  to  by 
most  of  the  gentn  merchts  and  masters  vessels."  After  the  British  evacuation, 
when  Washington  spent  ten  days  in  Boston,  he  and  his  officers  were  entertained 
here  at  an  "  elegant  dinner  "  as  part  of  the  official  ceremonies  of  the  occasion. 
The  tavern  was  especially  distinguished  as  the  place  where  in  March,  1786,  the 
group    of    Continental    army   officers,  , 

under  the  inspiration  of  General  Rufus 
Putnam  of  Rutland  (cousin  of  General 
Israel  Putnam),  organized  the  Ohio 
Company  which  settled  Ohio,  begin- 
ning at  Marietta. 

State  Street,  when  King  Street, 
practically  ended  at  Kilby  Street  on 
the  south  side  and  Merchants  Row  on 
the  north,  till  the  reclamation  of  the 
flats  beyond,  high-water  mark  being 
originally  at  these  points.  "  Mackerel 
Lane"  was  a  narrow  passage  by  the 
shore  till  after  the  "  Great  Fire  of  1 760," 
which  destroyed  much  property  in  the 
vicinity.  Then  it  was  widened  and 
named  Kilby  Street  in  recognition  of 
the  generous  aid  which  the  sufferers 
by  the  fire  had  received  from  Chris- 
topher Kilby,  a  wealthy  Boston  mer- 
chant, long  resident  in  London  as  the 
agent  for  the  town  and  colony,  but 
then  living  in  New  York. 

Nearly  opposite  the  Bunch-of- 
Grapes,  at  about  the  present  No. 

66,  stood  the  British  Coffee  House,  where  the  British  officers  principally 
resorted.  It  was  here  in  1769  that  James  Otis  was  assaulted  by  John 
Robinson,  one  of  the  royal  commissioners  of  customs,  upon  whom  the 
fiery  orator  had  passed  some  severe  strictures,  and  thus  through  a  deep 
cut  on  his  head  this  brilliant  intellect  was  shattered. 

At  the  east  corner  of  Exchange  Street  was  the  Royal  Customhouse, 
where  the  attack  upon  its  sentinel  by  the  little  mob  of  men  and  boys, 
with  a  fusillade  of  street  snow  and  ice,  and  taunting  shouts,  led  to  the 
Massacre  of  1770.  The  opposite,  or  west,  corner  was  occupied  by  the 
Royal  Exchange  Tavern,  dating  from  the  early  eighteenth  century,  another 
resort  of  the  British  officers  stationed  in  town.  It  was  here  in  1727  that 
occurred  the  altercation  which  resulted  in  the  First  Duel  fought  in 
Boston  (on  the  Common),  when  Benjamin  Woodbridge  was  killed  by 


Old  State  House 


CENTRAL  DISTRICT 


Henry  Phillips,  both  young  men  well  connected  with  the  "  gentry  "  of 
the  town,  the  latter  related  by  marriage  to  Peter  Faneuil,  the  giver 
of  Faneuil  Hall.  Woodbridge's  grave  is  in  the  Granary  Burying  Ground, 
and  can  be  seen  close  by  the  sidewalk  fence. 

It  was  this  grave  which  inspired  those  tender  passages  in  the  "  Autocrat  of 
the  Breakfast  Table  "  describing  "  My  First  Walk  with  the  Schoolmistress." 

The  Old  State  House  dates  from  1748.  Its  outer  walls,  however,  are 
older,  being  those  of  its  predecessor,  the  second  Town  and  Province 
House,  built  in  17 12-17 13.  That  house  was  destroyed  by  fire,  all  but 
these  walls,  in  1747,  sharing  very  nearly  the  fate  of  its  predecessor,  the 
first  Town  House  and  colonial  building,  which  went  down  in  the  "  Great 
Fire  "  of  171 1  with  the  second  meetinghouse  and  neighboring  buildings 
and  dwellings.  It  occupies  the  identical  site  in  the  middle  of  the  market- 
stead  chosen  for  the  first  Town  House  in  1657.     It  has  served  as  Town 

House,  Court  House, 
Province  Court  House, 
State  House,  and  City 
Hall.  As  the  Province 
Court  House,  identified 
with  the  succession  of 
prerevolutionary 
events  in  Boston,  it  has 
a  special  distinction 
among  the  historical 
buildings  of  the  coun- 
try. After  its  abandon- 
ment for  civic  uses  it 
suffered  many  vicissi- 
tudes and  indignities,  being  ruthlessly  refashioned,  made  over,  and 
patched  for  business  purposes,  that  the  city  which  owns  it  might  wrest 
the  largest  possible  rentals  from  it;  and  in  the  year  1881  its  removal 
was  seriously  threatened,  to  make  way  for  street  improvements.  Then, 
through  the  well-directed  efforts  of  a  number  of  worthy  citizens,  its 
preservation  was  secured,  and  in  1882  the  historic  structure  was  restored 
to  much  the  appearance  which  it  bore  in  Provincial  days. 

In  both  exterior  and  interior  the  original  architecture  is  in  large  part 
reproduced.  The  balcony  of  the  second  story  has  the  window  of  twisted 
crown  glass,  out  of  which  have  looked  all  the  later  royal  governors  of 
the  Province  and  the  early  governors  of  the  Commonwealth.  The  win- 
dows of  the  upper  stories  are  modeled  upon  the  small-paned  windows 
of  Colonial  days.     Within,  the  main  halls  have  the  same  floor  and 


Council  Chamber,  Old  State  House 


OLD   STATE   HOUSE 


ceilings,  and  on  three  sides  the  same  walls  that  they  had  in  1748.  The 
eastern  room  on  the  second  floor,  with  its  outlook  down  State  Street, 
was  the  Council  Chamber,  where  the  royal  governors  and  the  council 
sat.  The  western  room  was  the  Court  Chamber.  Between  the  two 
was  the  Hall  of  the  Representatives.  The  King's  arms,  which  were  in 
the  Council  Chamber  before  the  Revolution,  were  removed  by  Loyalists 
and  sent  to  St.  John,  New  Brunswick,  where  they  now  decorate  a  church. 
The  carved  and  gilded  arms  of  the  Colony  (handiwork  of  a  Boston  arti- 
san, Moses  Deshon),  displayed  above 
the  door  of  the  Representatives  Hall 
after  1750,  disappeared  with  the  Revo- 
lution. The  Wooden  Codfish,  "  emblem 
of  the  staple  of  commodities  of  the 
Colony  and  the  Province,"  which 
hung  from  the  ceiling  of  this  chamber 
through  much  of  the  Province  period, 
is  reproduced  in  the  more  artistic 
figure  (embellished  by  Walter  M. 
Brackett,  the  master  painter  of  fish 
and  game)  that  now  hangs  in  the 
Representatives  Hall  of  the  present 
State  House. 

The  restored  rooms  above  the  base- 
ment are  open  for  public  exhibition, 
with  the  rare  collection  of  antiquities 
relating  to  the  early  history  of  the 
Colony  and  Province,  as  well  as  the 
State  and  the  Town,  brought  together 
by  the    Bostonian  Society,    to   whose 

control  these  rooms  passed,  through  lease  by  the  city,  upon  the  resto- 
ration of  the  building.  The  collection  embraces  a  rich  variety  of 
interesting  relics :  historical  manuscripts  and  papers  ;  quaint  paintings, 
engravings,  and  prints  ;  numerous  portraits  of  old  worthies  ;  and  many 
photographs  illustrating  Boston  in  various  periods.  In  the  Council 
Chamber  is  the  old  table  formerly  used  by  the  royal  governors  and 
councillors. 


Franklin  Press,  Old  State  House 


The  Bostonian  Society,  established  here,  was  incorporated  in  1881  "to  pro- 
mote the  study  of  the  history  of  Boston,  and  the  preservation  of  its  antiquities  " ; 
and  in  it  was  merged  the  Antiquarian  Club,  organized  in  1879  especially  for  the 
promotion  of  historical  research,  whose  members  had  been  most  influential  in  the 
campaign  for  the  preservation  of  this  building.  It  has  rendered  excellent  service 
in  the  identification  of  historic  sites  and  in  verifying  historical  records. 


io  DOWN   STATE   STREET 

Deep  down  below  the  basement  of  the  building  is  now  the  State 
Street  station  of  the  East  Boston  Subway,  or  tunnel  for  electric  cars, 
which  runs  directly  under  the  historic  structure  to  Scollay  Square, 
where  it  connects  by  foot  passageways  with  the  older  Boston  Subway. 

The  first  Town  House,  completed  in  1659,  was  provided  for  by  the  will  of 
Captain  Keayne,  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Company's  chief  founder 
(the  longest  will  on  record,  comprising  158  folio  pages  in  the  testator's  own 
hand,  though  disposing  of  only  ^4000).  Captain  Keayne  left  ^300  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  to  this  sum  was  added  ^100  more,  raised  by  subscription  among  the 
townspeople,  paid  largely  in  provisions,  merchandise,  and  labor.  It  was  a  small 
"  comely  building "  of  wood,  set  upon  twenty  pillars,  overhanging  the  pillars 
"  three  feet  all  around,"  and  topped  by  two  tall  slender  turrets.  The  place 
inclosed  by  the  pillars  was  a  free  public  market,  and  an  exchange,  or  "  walk  for 
the  merchants." 

It  contained  the  beginnings  of  the  first  public  library  in  America, 
for  which  provision  was  made  in  Captain  Keayne's  will.  Portions  of  this 
library  were  saved  from  the  fire  of  171 1  which  destroyed  the  building;  but 
these  probably  perished  later  in  the  burning  of  the  second  Town  and  Province 
House 

The  second  house,  of  brick,  completed  in  1713,  also  had  an  open  public 
exchange  on  the  street  floor.  Surrounding  it  were  thriving  booksellers'  shops, 
observing  which  Daniel  Neal,  visiting  the  town  in  1719,  was  moved  to  remark 
that  "  the  Knowledge  of  Letters  flourishes  more  here  than  in  all  the  other  Eng- 
lish plantations  put  together ;  for  in  the  city  of  New  York  there  is  but  one  book- 
seller's shop,  and  in  the  Plantations  of  Virginia,  Maryland,  Carolina,  Barbadoes, 
and  the  Islands,  none  at  all."  So,  it  appears,  thus  early  Boston  was  the  "liter- 
ary center"  of  the  country,  a  fact  calculated  to  bring  almost  as  great  satisfaction 
to  the  complacent  Bostonian  as  that  later-day  saying  in  the  "  Autocrat "  (in 
which  this  stamp  of  Bostonian  declines  to  recognize  any  satire),  that  "Boston 
State-House  is  the  hub  of  the  solar  system." 

Down  State  Street.  Following  State  Street  to  its  end,  we  shall  come 
upon  Long  Wharf  (originally  Boston  Pier,  dating  from  1710),  where  the 
formal  landings  of  the  royal  governors  were  made,  the  main  landing 
place  of  the  British  soldiers  when  they  came,  and  the  departing  place 
at  the  Evacuation.  At  that  time  it  was  a  long,  narrow  pier,  extending 
out  beyond  the  other  wharves,  the  tide  ebbing  and  flowing  beneath  the 
stores  that  lined  it.  Atlantic  Avenue,  the  water-front  thoroughfare 
that  now  crosses  it,,  and  on  which  the  elevated  railway  runs,  follows 
generally  the  line  of  the  ancient  Barricado,  an  early  harbor  defense 
erected  in  1673  between  the  north  and  south  outer  points  of  the  "  Great 
Cove."  It  connected  the  North  Battery,  where  is  now  Battery  Wharf, 
and  the  South  Battery,  or  "  Boston  Sconce,"  at  the  present  Rowe's 
Wharf,  where  the  steamer  for  Nantasket  is  taken.     It  was  provided 


FANEUIL  HALL  AND  ITS   NEIGHBORHOOD 


II 


with  openings  to  allow  vessels  to  pass  inside,  and  so  came  to  be 
generally  called  the  "  Out  Wharves."  Its  line  is  so  designated  on 
the  early  maps. 

In  the  short  walk  down  State  Street  are  passed  in  succession  on 
either  side  of  the  way  notable  modern  structures  that  have  almost 
entirely  replaced  the  varied  architecture  of  different  periods,  which 
before  gave  this  street  a  peculiar  distinction  and  a  certain  picturesque- 
ness  that  is  now  wanting.  The  Exchange  Building  takes  the  place  of 
the  first  Merchants'  Exchange,  a  dignified  building  in  its  day  (1842- 
1890),  covering  a  very  small  part  of  the  ground  over  which  the  pres- 
ent structure  spreads.  The  Board  of  Trade  Building,  at  the  east  corner 
of  Broad  Street,  is,  perhaps,  the  most  attractive  in  design  of  the  newer 
architecture.  At  the  India  Street  corner,  its  massive  granite-pillared 
front  facing  that  street,  is  the  United  States  Custom  House  (dating  from 
1847),  in  marked  contrast  with  its 
younger  neighbors.  This  occupied 
several  years  in  building,  and  the 
transportation  of  the  heavy  granite 
columns,  each  weighing  about 
forty-two  tons,  which  surround  it 
on  all  sides,  was  a  great  feat  for 
the  time.  Its  site  was  the  head 
of  Long  Wharf,  and  the  bowsprits 
of  vessels  lying  there,  stretching 
across  the  street,  almost  touched 
its  eastern  side. 

On  India  Street,  a  few  rods  south 
of  this  specimen  of  a  past  architecture,  is  the  modern  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce (built  in  1902),  also  of  granite.  Viewed  from  a  distance,  its 
rounded  front,  with  turreted  dormer  windows  and  conical  tower,  has 
a  unique  appearance.  Opposite  it  opens  Custom  House  Street,  only  a 
block  in  length,  where  is  still  standing  the  Old  Custom  House,  built  in 
1 810,  in  which  Bancroft,  the  historian,  served  as  collector  of  the  port 
in  1838-1841,  and  which  was  the  "darksome  dungeon"  where  Haw- 
thorne spent  his  two  years  as  a  customs  officer,  first  as  a  measurer  of 
salt  and  coal,  then  as  a  weigher  and  gauger. 

Faneuil  Hall  and  its  Neighborhood.  From  lower  State  Street  we  can 
pass  to  Faneuil  Hall  by  way  of  Commercial  Street  and  the  long  granite 
Quincy  Market  House,  —  the  central  piece  of  the  great  work  of  the  first 
Mayor  Josiah  Quincy,  in  1 825-1 826,  in  the  construction  of  six  new 
streets  over  a  sweep  of  flats  and  docks,  —  or  we  may  go  direct  from  the 
Old  State  House  through  Exchange  Street,  a  walk  of  a  few  minutes. 


Custom  House 


FANEUIL  HALL  AND  ITS   NEIGHBORHOOD 


Faneuil  Hall  as  now  seen  is  the  "  Cradle  of  Liberty  "  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary period  doubled  in  width  and  a  story  higher.  The  enlargement 
was  made  in  1805,  under  the  superintendence  of  Charles  Bulfinch,  the 
pioneer  Boston  architect  of  enduring  fame,  whose  most  characteristic 
work  we  shall  see  in  the  "  Bulfinch  Front "  of  the  present  State  House. 
The  hall  was  built  in  1 762-1 763,  upon  the  brick  walls  of  the  first 
Faneuil  Hall,  Peter  Faneuil's  gift  to  the  town  in  1742,  which  was 
consumed,  except  its  walls,  in  a  fire  in  January,  1762.  Bulfinch,  in  his 
work  of  1805,  introduced  the  galleries  resting  on  Doric  columns,  and 
the  platform  with  its  extended  front,  with  various  interior  embellish- 
ments.    In   1898  the  entire  building  was  reconstructed  with  fireproof 

material  on  the  Bulfinch  plan, 
iron,  steel,  and  stone  being  sub- 
stituted for  wood  and  combus- 
tible material. 

Of  the  fine  collection  of  por- 
traits on  the  walls  many  are 
copies,  the  originals  having  been 
placed  in  the  Museum  of  Fine 
Arts  for  safe-keeping.  The  great 
historical  painting  at  the  back  of 
the  platform,  "  Webster's  Reply 
to  Hayne,"  by  G.  P.  A.  Healy, 
contains  one  hundred  and  thirty 
portraits  of  senators  and  other 
men  of  distinction  at  that  time. 
The  scene  is  the  old  Senate 
Chamber,  now  the  apartment 
of  the  United  States  Supreme 
Court.  The  canvas  measures 
sixteen  by  thirty  feet.  The  por- 
trait of  Peter  Faneuil,  on  one 
side  of  this  painting,  is  a  copy 
by  Colonel  Henry  Sargent,  from  a  smaller  portrait  in  the  Art  Museum, 
and  was  given  to  the  city  by  Samuel  Parkman,  grandfather  of  the  his- 
torian Parkman.  It  takes  the  place  of  a  full-length  portrait  executed 
by  order  of  the  town  in  1744,  as  a  "testimony  of  respect"  to  the 
donor  of  the  hall,  which  disappeared,  and  was  probably  destroyed,  at 
the  siege  of  Boston,  —  the  fate  also  of  portraits  of  George  II,  Colonel 
Isaac  Barre,  and  Field  Marshal  Conway,  the  last  two  solicited  by  the 
town  in  gratitude  for  their  defense  of  Americans  on  the  floor  of  Parlia- 
ment.    The  full-length  Washington,  on  the   other  side  of  the  great 


Faneuil   Hall 


ANCIENT  AND  HONORABLE  ARTILLERY  COMPANY      13 

painting,  is  a  Gilbert  Stuart.  It,  also,  was  presented  to  the  town  by- 
Samuel  Parkman,  in  1806.  Of  the  portraits  elsewhere  hung,  those  of 
Warren,  Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  John  Adams,  and  John  Quincy 
Adams  are  all  Copleys.  The  General  Harry  Knox  and  the  Commo- 
dore Preble  are  credited  to  Stuart.  The  Abraham  Lincoln  and  Rufus 
Choate  are  by  Ames.  The  "war  governor,"  John  A.  Andrew,  is  by 
William  M.  Hunt.  The  others  —  Robert  Treat  Paine,  Caleb  Strong, 
Edward  Everett,  Admiral  Winslow,  Wendell  Phillips,  and  Anson  Bur- 
lingame  —  are  by  various  American  painters.  The  ornamental  clock 
in  the  face  of  the  gallery  over  the  main  entrance  was  a  gift  of  Boston 
school  children  in  1850.  The  gilded  spread  eagle  was  originally  on  the 
facade  of  the  United  States  Bank  which,  erected  in  1798,  preceded 
the  first  Merchants'  Exchange  on  State  Street.  The  gilded  grass- 
hopper on  the  cupola  of  the  building,  serving  as  a  weather  vane,  is  the 
reconstructed,  or  rejuvenated,  original  one  of  1742,  fashioned  from 
sheet  copper  by  the  "cunning  artificer,"  "Deacon"  Shem  Drowne, 
immortalized  by  Hawthorne  in  "  Drowne's  Wooden  Image." 

The  floors  above  the  public  hall  have  been  occupied  by  the  Ancient 
and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  for  many  years.  Its  armory  is  a  rich 
museum  of  relics  of  Colonial,  Provincial,  and  Revolutionary  times, 
and  is  hospitably  open  to  appreciative  inspection.  Among  the  treas- 
ured memorials  here  are  the  various  banners  of  the  company,  the 
oldest  being  that  carried  in  1663.  Eighteen  silk  flags  reproduce  colo- 
nial colors  and  their  various  successors.  In  the  London  room  are 
mementos  of  the  visit  of  a  section  of  the  company  to  England  in  the 
summer  of  1896,  as  guests  of  the  Honourable  Artillery  Company  of 
London.  On  the  walls  of  the  main  hall  are  portraits  of  one  hundred 
and  fourteen  captains  of  the  company.  On  the  street  floor  of  the 
building  is  the  market,  which  has  continued  from  its  establishment 
with  the  first  Faneuil  Hall  in  1742.  John  Smibert,  the  Scotch  painter, 
long  resident  and  celebrated  in  Boston  from  1729,  was  the  architect  of 
the  first  building. 

Faneuil  Hall  was  instituted  primarily  as  a  market  house,  the  inclusion  of  a 
public  town  hall  in  the  scheme  being  an  afterthought  of  the  donor.  Peter 
Faneuil' s  offer  to  provide  a  suitable  building  at  his  own  expense  upon  condition 
only  that  the  town  should  legalize  and  maintain  it,  was  at  a  time  of  controversy 
over  the  town  market  houses  then  existing.  Three  had  been  set  up  seven  years 
before,  one  close  to  this  site,  in  Dock  Square ;  one  at  the  North  End,  in  North 
Square ;  the  third  at  the  then  South  End,  by  the  south  corner  of  the  present 
Boylston  and  Washington  streets.  The  Dock  Square  market  was  the  principal 
one,  and  this  had  recently  been  demolished  by  a  mob  "  disguised  as  clergymen." 
The  contention  was  over  the  market  system.     One  faction  demanded  a  return  to 


14  FANEUIL   HALL   AND    ITS    NEIGHBORHOOD 

the  method  of  service  at  the  home  of  the  townspeople,  as  before  the  setting  up 
of  these  market  houses ;  the  others  insisted  upon  the  fixed  market-house  system. 
So  high  did  the  feeling  run  that  Faneuil's  gift  was  accepted  by  the  town  by  the 
narrow  margin  of  seven  votes. 

The  building  was  completed  in  September,  1742.  It  was  only  one  hundred 
feet  in  length  and  forty  feet  wide.  But  it  was  of  brick,  and  substantial.  The 
hall,  calculated  to  hold  only  one  thousand  persons,  was  pronounced  in  the  vote 
of  the  first  town  meeting  held  in  it  as  "  spacious  and  beautiful."  In  the  same 
vote  it  was  named  Faneuil  Hall,  "to  be  at  all  times  hereafter  called  and  known 
by  that  name,"  in  testimony  of  the  town's  gratitude  to  its  giver  and  to  perpetu- 
ate his  memory.  Then  his  full-length  portrait  was  ordered  for  the  hall ;  and  a 
year  and  a  half  later  the  Faneuil  arms,  "  elegantly  carved  and  gilt "  by  Moses 
Deshon,  the  same  who  later  carved  the  Colony  seal  for  the  Town  House  (see 
p.  9),  were  added  at  the  town's  expense. 

The  first  public  gathering  in  the  hall,  other  than  a  town  meeting,  was,  sin- 
gularly, to  commemorate  Faneuil,  he  having  died  suddenly,  March  3,  1743, 
but  a  few  months  after  the  completion  of  the  building.  On  this  occasion  the 
eulogist  was  John  Lovell,  master  of  the  Latin  School,  who  in  the  subsequent 
prerevolutionary  controversies  was  a  Loyalist,  and  at  the  Evacuation  went  off  to 
Halifax.  The  Faneuils  who  succeeded  Peter,  his  nephews,  were  also  Loyalists, 
and  left  the  country  with  the  Evacuation. 

The  second  Faneuil  Hall,  embraced  in  the  present  structure,  was  built  by  the 
town,  and  the  building  fund  was  largely  obtained  through  a  lottery  authorized  by 
the  General  Court.  The  first  public  meeting  in  this  hall  was  on  March  14,  1763, 
when  the  patriot  James  Otis  was  the  orator,  and  by  him  the  hall  was  dedicated 
to  the  "  Cause  of  Liberty."  Then  followed  those  town  meetings  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary period,  debating  the  question  of  "  justifiable  resistance,"  from  which  the 
hall  derived  its  sobriquet  of  the  "Cradle  of  American  Liberty."  In  1766  on 
the  news  of  the  Stamp  Act  repeal  the  hall  was  illuminated.  In  1768  one  of  the 
British  regiments  was  quartered  here  for  some  weeks.  In  1772  the  Boston  Com- 
mittee of  Correspondence,  "  to  state  the  rights  of  the  colonists  "  to  the  world, 
was  established  here,  on  that  motion  of  Samuel  Adams  which  Bancroft  says 
"contained  the  whole  Revolution."  In  1773  the  "Little  Senate,"  composed 
of  the  committees  of  the  several  towns,  began  their  conferences  with  the 
"  ever-vigilant "  Boston  committee,  in  the  selectmen's  room.  During  the  siege 
the  hall  was  transformed  into  a  playhouse,  under  the  patronage  of  a  society 
of  British  officers  and  Tory  ladies,  when  soldiers  were  the  actors,  and  a 
local  farce,  "  The  Blockade  of  Boston,"  by  General  Burgoyne,  was  the  chief 
attraction. 

Since  the  Revolution  the  hall  has  been  the  popular  meeting  place  of  citizens 
on  important  and  grave  occasions,  and  a  host  of  national  leaders,  orators,  and 
agitators  have  spoken  from  its  historic  rostrum.  In  1826  Webster  delivered  here 
his  memorable  eulogy  on  Adams  and  Jefferson,  in  the  presence  of  President 
John  Quincy  Adams  and  an  audience  of  exceptional  character.  Here  in  1837 
Wendell  Phillips  made  his  first  antislavery  speech;  in  1845  Charles  Sumner  first 
publicly  appeared  in  this  cause;  in  1846  the  antislavery  Vigilance  Committee 
was  formed  at  a  meeting  to  denounce  the  return  of  a  fugitive  slave ;  in  1854  the 


HANCOCK  TAVERN 


*5 


preconcerted  signal  was  given,  at  a  crowded  meeting  to  protest  against  the 
rendition  of  Anthony  Burns,  for  the  bold  but  fruitless  move  on  the  Court  House 
(see  p.  19)  to  effect  the  escape  of  this  fugitive  slave. 

Faneuil  Hall  is  protected  by  a  provision  of  the  city  charter  forbidding  its  sale 
or  lease.  It  is  never  let  for  money,  but  is  opened  to  the  people  upon  the  request 
of  a  certain  number  of  citizens,  who  must  agree  to  comply  with  the  prescribed 
regulations. 

Faneuil  Hall  occupies  made  land  close  to  the  head  of  the  Old 
Town  Dock.  The  streets  around  the  sides  and  back  of  the  building 
constitute  Faneuil  Hall  Square.  From  the  south  side  of  this  square 
opens  Com  Court,  which  runs  in  irregular  form  to  Merchants  Row. 
This  space  was  the  Corn  Market  of  Colonial  times.  A  landmark 
of  a  later  day  here,  which  remained  till  1903,  was  an  old  inn 
long  known  as  Hancock  Tavern.  While  not  so  ancient  as  it  was 
assumed  to  be,  nor  occupying,  as 
alleged,  the  site  of  the  first  tavern 
in  the  town,  it  was  an  interesting 
landmark  with  rich  associations. 
It  became  the  Hancock  Tavern  when 
John  Hancock  was  made  the  first 
governor  of  the  Commonwealth,  and 
the  swing  sign  displaying  his  roughly 
painted  portrait  is  still  preserved. 
At  other  periods  it  was  the  Brazier 
Inn,  kept  by  Madam  Brazier,  niece 
of  Provincial  Lieutenant  Governor 
Spencer  Phipps  (1733),  who  made 
a  specialty  of  a  noonday  punch  for 
its  patrons.  In  this  tavern  lodged 
Talleyrand,  when  exiled  from  France, 
during  his  stay  in   Boston  in    1795; 

also,  two  years  later,  Louis  Philippe;  and,  in  1796,  the  exiled 
French  priest,  John  Cheverus,  who  afterward  became  the  first  Roman 
Catholic  bishop  of  Boston.  An  annex  to  a  modern  office  building 
occupies  its  site. 

East  of  Corn  Court,  near  the  east  end  of  Faneuil  Hall,  also  on  land 
reclaimed  from  the  Town  Dock,  was  John  Hancock's  Store,  where  he 
advertised  for  sale  "  English  and  India  goods,  also  choice  Newcastle 
Coals  and  Irish  Butter,  Cheap  for  Cash."  West  of  Corn  Court  opens 
Cha?ige  Alley  (incongruously  designated  as  "avenue"),  a  quaint,  narrow 
foot  passage  to  State  Street,  one  of  the  earliest  ways  established  in 
the  town.     It  was  sometime  Flagg  Alley,  from  being  laid  out  with  flag 


The  Adams  Statue 


1 6  CORNHILL  AND  ABOUT  SCOLLAY   SQUARE 

stones.  Until  the  erection  of  the  great  financial  buildings  that  now 
largely  wall  it  in,  the  alley  was  picturesque  with  bustling  little  shops. 

On  the  west  side  of  Faneuil  Hall  Square  the  triangle,  covered  with 
low,  old  buildings,,  marks  the  head  of  the  ancient  Town  Dock. 

Old  Dock  Square  makes  into  modern  Adams  Square  (opened  in  1879), 
near  the  middle  of  which  stands  the  bronze  statue  of  Samuel  Adams, 
by  Anne  Whitney.  This  is  a  counterpart  of  the  statue  of  the  revolu- 
tionary leader  in  the  Capitol  at  Washington.  It  portrays  him  as  he  is 
supposed  to  have  appeared  when  before  Lieutenant  Governor  Hutchin- 
son and  the  council,  in  the  Council  Chamber  of  the  Old  State  House, 
as  chairman  of  the  committee  of  the  town  meeting  the  day  after  the 
Boston  Massacre  of  1770,  and  at  the  moment  that,  having  delivered 
the  people's  demand  for  the  instant  removal  of  the  British  soldiers 
from  the  town,  he  stood  with  a  resolute  look  awaiting  Hutchinson's 
reply. 

The  principal  architectural  feature  of  this  open  space  is  the  stone 
Adams  Square  Station  of  the  Subway. 

Cornhill  and  about  Scollay  Square.  From  the  west  side  of  Adams 
Square  we  pass  into  Cornhill,  early  in  its  day  a  place  of  bookshops, 
and  still  occupied  by  several  booksellers  at  long-established  stands. 
It  is  the  second  Cornhill,  the  first  having  been  the  part  of  the  present 
Washington  Street  between  old  Dock  Square  and  School  Street.  Wash- 
ington Street  originally  ended  at  Dock  Square  north  of  the  present 
Cornhill,  and  its  extension  to  Haymarket  Square  (1872),  where  it  now 
ends,  greatly  changed  this  part  of  the  town  and  obliterated  various 
landmarks.  A  little  north  of  the  present  opening  of  Cornhill,  lost  in 
the  Washington  Street  extension,  was  the  site  of  the  dwelling  of  Ben- 
jamin Edes,  where,  on  the  afternoon  preceding  the  Boston  Tea  Party  of 
December  16,  1773,  a  number  of  the  leaders  in  that  affair  met  and 
partook  of  punch  from  the  punch  bowl  now  possessed  by  the  Massa- 
chusetts Historical  Society. 

This  Cornhill  dates  from  1816,  and  was  first  called  Cheapside,  after 
the  London  fashion.  Then  for  a  while  it  was  Market  Street,  being  a 
new  wTay  to  Faneuil  Hall  Market.  From  its  northerly  side  w7as  once  an 
archway  leading  to  Brattle  Street  and  old  Dock  Square,  which  also 
disappeared  in  the  extension  of  Washington  Street.  Midway,  at  its 
curve  towTard  Court  Street,  where  it  ends,  it  is  crossed  by  Franklin 
Avenue  (another  short  passageway,  or  alley,  with  this  ambitious  title), 
at  the  Court  Street  end  of  which  was  Edes  &  Gill's  printing  office,  the 
principal  rendezvous  of  the  Tea-Party  men,  in  a  back  room  of  which  a 
number  of  them  assumed  their  disguise.  This  wras  on  the  westerly 
corner  of  the  "  avenue,"  then  Dasset  Alley,  and  Court,  then  Queen, 


BRATTLE  SQUARE   CHURCH  17 

Street.  Earlier,  on  the  east  corner,  was  the  printing  office  of  Benjamin 
Franklin's  brother  James,  where  the  boy  Franklin  learned  the  printer's 
trade  as  his  brother's  apprentice,  and  composed  those  ballads  on  "  The 
Lighthouse  Tragedy"  and  on  "Teach"  (or  "  Blackbeard"),  the  pirate, 
which  he  peddled  about  the  streets  with  a  success  that  "  flattered " 
his  "vanity,"  though  they  were  "wretched  stuff,"  as  he  confesses  in 
his  Autobiography.  Here  James  Franklin  issued  his  New  England 
Courant,  the  fourth  newspaper  that  appeared  in  America,  which 
Franklin  managed  during  the  month  in  which  his  brother  was  impris- 
oned for  printing  an  article  offensive  to  the  Assembly,  and  himself 
"  made  bold  to  give  our  rulers  some  rubs  in  it  " ;  and  which,  after 
James's  release  inhibited  from  publishing,  was  issued  for  a  while 
under  Benjamin's  name. 

The  north  end  of  Franklin  Avenue,  from  Cornhill  by  a  short  flight  of 
steps,  is  at  Brattle  Street,  a  short  distance  above  the  site  of  Murray's 
Barracks,  on  the  opposite  side,  where  were  quartered  the  Twenty- 
Ninth,  the  regiment  of  the  British  force  of  1 768-1 770  most  obnoxious 
to  the  "  Bostoneers,"  and  where  the  fracas  began  that  culminated  in 
the  Boston  Massacre.  The  Quincy  House,  nearer  the  avenue's  end, 
covers  the  site  of  the  first  Quaker  meetinghouse,  built  in  1697,  the  first 
brick  meetinghouse  in  the  town.  Opposite  the  side  of  the  Quincy 
House,  facing  Brattle  Square,  stood  till  187 1  the  Brattle  Square 
Church,  which  after  the  Revolution  bore  on  its  front  a  memento  of 
the  Siege,  in  the  shape  of  a  cannon  ball,  thrown  there  by  an  Amer- 
ican battery  at  Cambridge  on  the  night  of  the  Evacuation.  This  was 
the  meetinghouse  alluded  to  in  Holmes's  "  A  Rhymed  Lesson," 

.  .  .  that,  mindful  of  the  hour 
When  Howe's  artillery  shook  its  half-built  tower, 
Wears  on  its  bosom,  as  a  bride  might  do, 
The  iron  breastpin  which  the  '  Rebels '  threw. 

A  model  of  the  church  as  it  thus  appeared  is  in  the  house  of  the 
Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  where  also  the  cannon  ball  is  pre- 
served. The  quoins  of  the  structure,  of  Connecticut  stone,  were  placed 
inside  the  tower  of  its  successor  on  Commonwealth  Avenue,  Back  Bay, 
now  the  church  of  the  First  Baptist  Society.  Though  new,  and  "  the 
pride  of  the  town  "  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  having  been  conse- 
crated in  1773,  it  was  utilized  as  barracks  for  the  British  soldiers ;  and 
only  the  fact  that  the  removal  of  the  pillars  which  embellished  its  inte- 
rior would  have  endangered  the  structure,  prevented  its  use  during  the 
Siege  as  a  military  riding  school,  like  the  Old  South  Meetinghouse 
(see  p.  51).     It  was  the  church  that  Hancock,  Bowdoin,  and  Warren 


18  CORNHILL  AND  ABOUT  SCOLLAY   SQUARE 


attended.     Warren's  house,  from  1764,  was  near  by  on  Hanover  Street, 
on  the  site  now  covered  by  the  American  House. 

At  the  head  of  Cornhill,  in  front  of  Scollay  Square,  stood  the  bronze 
statue  of  John  Winthrop  until  its  removal  was  necessitated  by  the 
East   Boston   Tunnel  work   below  it  in    1903.     It  was  well  worth  a 

moment's  study,  though  the 
constant  traffic  of  the  busy 
thoroughfare  made  its  near 
neighborhood  perilous.  The 
Colonial  governor,  clad  in 
the  picturesque  costume  of 
the  period,  is  represented  as 
stepping  from  a  gang  board 
to  the  shore.  In  his  right 
hand  he  holds  the  charter 
of  the  Colony  by  its  great 
seal ;  in  his  left  the  Bible. 
Behind  the  figure  appears 
the  base  of  a  newly  hewn 
forest  tree,  with  a  rope  at- 
tached, significant  of  the  fas- 
tening of  a  boat.  The  statue 
is  the  work  of  Richard  S. 
Greenough  and  is  a  copy  of 
the  marble  one  in  the  Cap- 
itol at  Washington.  It  was 
cast  in  Rome.  It  was  first 
erected  in  1880,  on  the  250th 
anniversary  of  the  settle- 
ment of  Boston.  It  <now 
stands  on  Marlborough  Street 
beside  the  First  Church. 
About  where  the  Scollay 
Square  Station  stands,  or  a  little  north  of  its  site,  was  the  first 
Free  Writing  School,  set  up  in  1683- 1684.  This  was  the  second 
school  in  the  town,  the  first  being  on  School  Street,  as  we  shall 
presently  see.  It  continued  in  use  till  after  the  Revolution  (or 
about  1793),  latterly  known  as  the  Central  Reading  and  Writing 
School. 

Looking  down  Court  Street  eastward,  we  have  in  near  view,  the 
somber-pillared  front  of  the  Old  Court  House,  dating  from  1836.  It  was 
designed  by  Solomon  Willard,  the  architect  of  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 


Court  Street 


COLONIAL  PRISON 


*9 


Its  exterior  is  of  Quincy  granite.  The  ponderous  fluted  columns 
(originally  eight  in  all,  there  having  been  a  row  on  the  rear  as  well 
as  in  front)  weigh  each  twenty-five  tons.  The  first  two  were  brought 
over  the  roads  from  Quincy  by  sixty-five  yoke  of  oxen  and  ten 
horses,  making  a  great  street  show.  This  building  was  the  center 
of  the  exciting  scenes  attending  the  fugitive  slave  cases  in  1851  and 
1854. 

Here  occurred  first,  in  February,  185 1,  the  rescue  of  Shadrach,  who  had  been 
confined  in  the  United  States  court  room  awaiting  action  upon  a  process  for  his 
rendition.  Six  weeks  later  came  the  Thomas 
Sims  affair,  when,  to  prevent  the  rescue  of  this 
slave,  the  building  was  guarded  and  surrounded 
with  chains  breast  high,  under  which  the  judges 
and  all  others  having  business  within  were 
obliged  to  stoop  to  reach  the  doors.  Finally, 
in  May,  1854,  occurred  the  Anthony  Burns  riot, 
on  the  evening  of  the  26th,  with  the  failure  of 
the  rescue  planned  by  a  number  of  the  anti- 
slavery  "Vigilance  Committee,"  when,  in  the 
assault  made  at  the  entrance  on  the  west  side 
of  the  building,  one  of  the  marshal's  deputies 
was  killed.  It  was  after  this  affair  that  indict- 
ments were  brought  against  Theodore  Parker, 
Wendell  Phillips,  Thomas  Wentworth  Higgin- 
son,  and  several  others,  for  "obstructing  the 
process  of  the  United  States."  For  their 
defense  a  formidable  array  of  counsel  appeared 
here,  but  the  indictment  was  quashed. 

On  this  same  spot   was    the    Colonial 
prison,  its  outer  walls  of  stone  three  feet 
thick,  with  unglazed  iron-barred  windows,         The  Winthrop  Statue 
stout  oaken  doors  covered  with  iron,  hard 

cells,  and  gloomy  passages,  where  were  incarcerated  the  Quakers  and, 
later,  victims  of  the  witchcraft  delusion.  Here  also,  after  the  over- 
throw of  Andros  in  1689,  Ratcliffe,  the  rector  of  the  first  Episcopal 
church,  which  Andros  so  fostered  (see  King's  Chapel,  p.  24),  was 
confined  with  his  leading  parishioners  for  nine  months,  till  sent  to 
England  by  royal  command.  Another  distinguished  prisoner  here, 
in  1699,  was  *^e  piratical  Captain  Kidd.  It  was  this  prison  that 
Hawthorne  fancifully  describes  in  "The  Scarlet  Letter."  The  prison 
was  first  placed  here  in  1642,  and  gave  to  the  street  the  name  of  Prison 
Lane,  which  it  bore  through  the  seventeenth  century.  Then  it  became 
Queen  Street,  and  Court  Street  after  the  Revolution. 


20  TREMONT   STREET 

Looking  westward  up  Court  Street  to  the  upper  side,  called  Tremont 
Row,  we  may  imagine  the  site  of  Governor  John  Endicott's  house,  where 
he  lived  after  his  removal  from  Salem  to  Boston,  and  where,  in 
1661,  Samuel  Shattuck,  bearing  the  order  of  the  King  releasing  the 
imprisoned  Quakers,  had  audience  with  him, —  the  event  upon  which 
Whittier's  "  The  King's  Missive  "  is  founded.  This  house  is  variously 
placed  by  local  authorities  on  Tremont  Row,  between  Tremont  Street 
and  Howard  Street,  but  the  best  evidence  appears  to  point  to  a  situ- 
ation toward  the  Howard  Street  end. 

Tremont  Street  and  King's  Chapel.  Now  we  take  Tremont  Street. 
From  the  west  side,  at  its  beginning,  opens  the  short  way  up  to  Petn- 
berton  Square,  at  the  head  of  which  we  see  the  facade  of  the  present 
County  Court  House  (built  1887-1893).  This  is  a  long  granite  structure 
in  the  German  Renaissance  style  of  architecture,  designed  by  George  A. 
Clough.  Its  plan  is  on  the  system  of  open  courtyards :  four  are  in  the 
area  of  the  general  block.  It  covers  65,300  feet  of  land.  The  feature 
of  the  interior  is  the  great  hall,  broad  and  lofty,  a  flight  of  steps  ascend- 
ing to  it  from  the  front  entrance,  and  other  flights  ascending  from  it  to 
the  rear  exit  on  Somerset  Street.  Upon  the  faces  of  the  cornices  in  the 
vestibule  at  the  main  entrance  are  statuesque  bas-reliefs  of  Law,  Justice, 
Wisdom,  Innocence,  and  Guilt.  On  one  side  of  the  hall  is  the  bronze 
statue  of  Rufus  Choate,  the  great  lawyer  of  his  day.  This  is  by  Daniel 
C.  French.  It  was  placed  in  1898.  It  was  a  gift  to  the  city,  provided 
for  in  the  will  of  a  Boston  public-school  master.  The  donor  was  some- 
time master  of  the  Dwight  School  for  boys,  and  afterward  principal 
of  the  Everett  School  for  girls. 

Pemberton  Square  marks  the  second  highest  peak  of  Beacon  Hill. 
This  peak  at  first  received  the  name  of  Cotton  Hill,  from  the  Rev.  John 
Cotton,  the  early  minister  of  the  First  Church,  whose  house  was  on  its 
slope  facing  Tremont  Street.  The  Cotton  estate  originally  spread  over 
this  peak,  extending  back  across  Somerset  Street  to  about  the  middle 
of  Ashburton  Place  in  the  rear  of  the  Court  House. 

The  peak  rose  originally  in  irregular  heights,  the  loftiest  bluff  being 
at  the  southerly  end  of  Pemberton  Square,  or  on  the  west  side  of 
Tremont  Street  about  opposite  the  gate  of  King's  Chapel  Burying 
Ground.     Against  its  slopes  were  early  favorite  places  for  house  sites. 

John  Cotton's  house  was  set  up  in  1633,  soon  after  his  arrival  in  the 
Griffin.  It  stood  a  little  south  of  the  entrance  to  Pemberton  Square. 
Next  above,  or  adjoining  it,  was  Sir  Harry  Vane's  house.  This  was  built 
by  the  young  statesman  a  few  months  after  his  arrival  (October,  1635), 
he  having  at  first  been  the  minister's  guest.  It  was  Vane's  home  when 
he  was  governor  of  the  Colony  in  1 636-1 637.     Later  the  Cotton  house 


KING'S   CHAPEL  BURYING  GROUND  21 

came  into  possession  of  John  Hull,  the  "  mint  master,"  who  made  the 
pine-tree  shillings,  the  first  New  England  money.  In  course  of  time 
it  fell  to  Chief  Justice  Samuel  Sewall  (one  of  the  witchcraft  judges  at 
Salem  in  1692),  the  diarist  of  early  Boston,  through  his  marriage  with 
the  "  mint  master's  "  daughter  Hannah,  whose  wedding  dowry,  tradition 
tells,  was  her  weight  in  the  pine-tree  shillings. 

About  on  the  former  site  of  the  Suffolk  Savings  Bank,  No.  53,  but 
back  from  the  street,  was  Richard  Bellingham's  stone  house,  in  which  he 
lived  through  his  several  terms  as  governor  and  till  his  death  in  1672. 
He  was  dwelling  here 
when,  in  1641,  he  scan- 
dalized his  brethren  by 
the  manner  of  his  mar- 
riage to  Penelope  Pel- 
ham,  his  second  wife, 
without  "publishing" 
the  marriage  intention, 
and  especially  by  per- 
forming the  marriage 
ceremony  himself,  being 
a  magistrate,  as  Win- 
throp  relates  in  pictur- 
esque detail  in  his 
journal. 

In  the  next  century 
the  grand  Faneuil  man- 
sion and  terraced 
gardens  were  here. 
This  was  the  estate  that  Peter  Faneuil  inherited  in  1737  and  was 
occupying  when  he  built  Faneuil  Hall.  It  was  maintained  in  all  its 
elegance  by  its  several  owners  till  some  years  after  the  Revolution. 
At  that  time  it  was  confiscated,  its  owner  being  a  Royalist,  —  Willia??i 
Vassal,  uncle  of  the  Colonel  John  Vassal  who  built  the  Cambridge 
mansion  now  treasured  as  the  Longfellow  house.  Early  in  the  nine- 
teenth century  it  was  joined  to  the  Gardner  Greene  estate,  the  finest 
in  the  town. 


...         .    ;  : 

i^i.^1      """"^^ 

' 

_^ 

Sgll 

/giu^i^lj 

*m^m&t'%     »"*1 

■  U  WAiH^is 

m&te'' 

L>3^^ 

ImbI 

y/ 

Old  Boston  Museum 


The  peak  was  finally  cut  down  in  the  thirties,  and  Pemberton  Square  was 
then  laid  out  through  the  Greene  estate  as  a  place  of  genteel  residences  in 
blocks,  which  character  it  sustained  till  the  late  sixties. 

On  the  east  side  the  Boston  Museum,  razed  in  1903  to  make  way  for  a 
modern  business  structure,  long  stood  the  oldest  playhouse  of  the  city. 


22  KING'S   CHAPEL  BURYING  GROUND 

For  more  than  half  a  century  it  was  a  familiar  landmark.  At  first 
the  museum  proper,  with  its  halls  of  marvelous  curiosities,  was  the 
chief  feature  of  the  institution,  the  performances  being  subordinate 
to  these  attractions,  and  the  theater  being  called  "  the  lecture  hall,"  to 
quiet  the  consciences  of  its  patrons,  who  shied  from  the  openly  pro- 
claimed playhouse.  William  Warren,  the  "prince  of  comedians,"  as 
Bostonians  delighted  in  calling  him,  was  identified  with  the  Museum  for 
forty  years.    Here  Edwin  Booth  made  his  first  appearance  on  any  stage. 

From  King's  Chapel  to  Park  Street  Church.  King's  Chapel  Burying 
Ground,  adjoining  the  old  stone  church,  is  very  nearly  as  ancient  as  the 
town  of  Boston.  The  exact  date  of  its  establishment  is  not  known, 
but  it  was  probably  soon  after  the  beginning  of  the  settlement,  for  this 
record  appears  in  Winthrop's  journal:  "  Capt.  Welden,  a  hopeful  young 
gent,  &  an  experienced  soldier,  dyed  at  Charlestowne  of  a  consumption, 
and  was  buryed  at  Boston  wth  a  military  funeral."  And  Dudley  wrote 
that  the  young  man  was  "buryed  as  a  souldier  with  three  volleys  of 
shott."  The  earliest  interment  of  record  here  was  that  of  Governor 
Winthrop  in  1649.  ^  *s  believed  that  his  third  wife,  Margaret  Winthrop, 
who  followed  him  to  New  England  the  year  after  he  came  out  and  who 
died  two  years  before  him,  was  also  buried  here. 

In  the  same  tomb  are  the  ashes  of  other  distinguished  Winthrops,  — 
the  Massachusetts  governor's  eldest  son  and  grandsons :  John  Win- 
throp, Jr.,  the  governor  of  the  Connecticut  Colony,  who  died  in  1676, 
and  John  Jr.'s  two  sons,  Fitz  John  Winthrop,  governor  of  the  United 
Colonies  of  Connecticut  (died  1707),  and  Wait  Still  Winthrop,  chief 
justice  of  Massachusetts  and  sometime  major  general  of  the  forces  of 
the  Colony  (died  17 17).  A  second  Winthrop  tomb  contains  the  dust 
of  Professor  John  Winthrop  of  Harvard  College,  the  friend  of  Franklin 
and  correspondent  of  John  Adams  (died  in  1779). 

The  first  Winthrop  tomb  is  seen  not  far  from  the  middle  of  the 
ground.  Beside  it  is  the  tomb  of  Elder  Thomas  Oliver  of  the  First 
Church,  which  subsequently  became  the  property  of  the  church ;  and 
close  to  this  a  horizontal  tablet  informs  that  "  here  lyes  intombed  the 
bodyes  of  ye  famous  reverend  and  learned  pastors  of  the  First  Church 
of  Christ  in  Boston,  viz:"  John  Cotton,  aged  67  years,  died  1652;  John 
Davenport,  72  years,  died  1670;  John  Oxenbridge,  aged  66  years,  died 
1674;  and  Thomas  Bridge,  aged  58  years,  died  1715.  Near  by  are 
the  modest  gravestones  of  Sarah,  "the  widow  of  the  beloved  John 
Cotton  and  excellent  Richard  Mather,"  and  of  Elizabeth,  widow  of 
John  Davenport. 

In  the  middle  of  the  ground  is  the  marble  monument  to  Colonel 
Thomas  Dawes,  a  leading  Boston  mechanic  of  his  day,  who  died  in 


KING'S   CHAPEL  23 

1809,  and  near  it  the  tomb  of  Governor  John  Leverett.  A  few  steps 
distant  is  that  of  the  Boston  branch  of  the  Plymouth  Colony  Winslow 
family.  Here  are  the  ashes  of  John  Winslow,  brother  of  Governor 
Edward  Winslow,  with  those  of  the  former's  wife,  who  was  Mary  Chilton, 
one  of  the  Mayflower  passengers,  heroine  of  the  popular  but  apoc- 
ryphal tale  of  the  first  woman  to  spring  ashore  from  the  Pilgrim  ship. 
In  a  cluster  of  ancient  tombs  are  those  of  Jacob  Sheafe,  an  opulent 
merchant  of  Colony  times,  in  which  was  afterward  buried  the  Rev. 
Thomas  Thacher,  first  pastor  of  the  Old  South  Church  (died  1678), 
who  married  Sheafe's  widow;  and  of  Thomas  Brattle  (died  1683),  said 
probably  to  have  been  the  wealthiest  merchant  of  his  day,  whose  son 
Thomas  became  a  treasurer  and  benefactor  of  Harvard  College.  A 
tomb  of  especial  interest  in  this  quarter  is  the  Benjamin  Church 
tomb,  for  herein  were  deposited  the  remains  of  Lady  Andros,  the  wife 
of  Governor  Andros,  who  died  in  February,  1688,  and  of  whose  funeral 
in  the  nighttime  from  the  Old  South  Meetinghouse  Sewall  gives  a 
quaint  account  in  his  diary.  Other  tombs  of  note  are  those  of  Major 
Thomas  Savage,  one  of  the  commanders  in  King  Philip's  War,  and 
Judge  Oliver  Wendell,  grandfather  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes. 

Many  of  the  old  tombstones  here  have  been  shifted  from  their  proper 
places  and  made  to  serve  as  edge  stones  along  the  paths  beyond  the 
principal  gateway.  This  vandalism  was  the  performance  years  ago  of 
a  superintendent  of  burials  who  was  possessed  with  an  evil  "  eye  for 
symmetry." 

King's  Chapel  in  part  occupies  the  upper  end  of  this  burying  ground, 
which  extended  originally  to  School  Street,  the  land  having  been  taken 
by  Governor  Andros  in  1688  for  the  first  Episcopal  church,  no  Puritan 
landholder  being  found  who  would  sell  for  such  a  purpose.  This 
building  dates  from  1754  and  is  the  second  King's  Chapel  on  the  spot. 
Its  aspect  has  been  little  changed,  beyond  the  enrichment  of  the  interior, 
from  Province  days.  The  low  solid  edifice  of  dark  stone,  with  its  heavy 
square  tower  surrounded  by  wooden  Ionic  columns,  stands  as  it  appeared 
when  it  was  the  official  church  of  the  royal  governors.  The  stone  of 
which  it  is  constructed  came  from  Quincy  (then  Braintree),  where  it  was 
taken  from  the  surface,  there  being  then  no  quarries.  It  was  built  so 
as  to  inclose  the  first  chapel,  in  which  services  were  held  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  time  consumed  in  the  slow  work,  —  about  five  years.  Peter 
Harrison,  an  Englishman  who  came  out  in  1729  in  the  train  of  Dean 
Berkeley  to  have  part  in  the  dean's  projected  but  never  established 
university,  was  the  architect.  His  model  was  the  familiar  English 
church  of  the  eighteenth  century ;  so  the  visitor  sees  in  the  fashion 
of  the  interior,  its  rows  of  columns  supporting  the  ceiling,  the  antique 


24 


KING'S   CHAPEL 


pulpit  and  reading  desk,  the  mural  tablets  and  the  sculptured  monu- 
ments that  line  the  walls,  a  pleasant,  likeness  to  an  old  London  church. 
Memorials  of  the  first  chapel  are  preserved  in  the  chancel.  The  com- 
munion table  of  1688  is  still  in  use.  Several  of  the  mural  tablets  are 
of  the  Provincial  period.  On  the  organ  are  in  their  ancient  places  the 
gilt  miters  and  crown,  which  were  removed  at  the  Revolution  and 
deposited  in  a  place  of  safety.  Among  the  tablets  on  the  northern 
wall  is  one  to  the  memory  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes.  This  was  placed 
in  the  autumn  of  1895.  The  inscription  was  composed  by  President 
Eliot  of  Harvard  University. 


-  ">v"'    :r  L^-'-f 


At  the  Evacuation  the  venerable  rector,  Mr.  Caner,  fled  with  the  Loyalists  of 
his  parish,  taking  off  with  him  to  Halifax  the  church  registers,  plate,  and  vest- 
ments, but  most  of  these  were  in  later  years 
restored. 

The  last  Loyalist  service  before  the  Evacua- 
tion was  on  the  preceding  Sunday.  In  less  than 
a  month  after  the  Evacuation  the  chapel  was 
reopened  for  the  obsequies  of  General  Joseph 
Warren,  who  fell  at  Bunker  Hill,  and  on 
that  occasion  the  orator,  Perez 
Morton,  advocated  independ- 
ence. For  more  than  two  years 
thereafter  the  chapel  was  closed. 
Then  it  was  opened  to  the  Old 
South  congregation,  and  it  was 
used  by  the  latter  for  nearly 
five  years,  when  their  meeting- 
house was  restored.  In  1782 
the  remnant  of  the  society 
renewed  their  services  with  the  Rev.  James  Freeman  as  "  reader."  In  1 787 
Mr.  Freeman  was  ordained  as  rector,  and  at  that  time  this  first  Episcopal  church 
in  New  England  became  the  first  Unitarian  church  in  America.  A  bust  of  Mr. 
Freeman  is  among  the  mural  monuments. 

The  original  King's  Chapel  of  1688  was  a  small  wooden  structure,  built  at  a 
cost  of  ^284  16  s,  contributed  by  persons  throughout  the  Colony,  with  subscrip- 
tions from  Andros  and  other  English  officers.  For  more  than  two  years  before 
its  erection  the  Episcopal  congregation  had  joint  occupancy  of  the  Old  South 
Church  with  its  proper  owners,  by  order  of  Governor  Andros  against  their 
earnest  and  constant  protest.  The  church  organization  was  formed  in  1686, 
under  the  aggressive  leadership  of  Edward  Randolph,  with  the  Rev.  Robert  Rat- 
cliffe  as  rector,  who  had  come  from  England  commissioned  to  establish  the 
Church  of  England  in  the  Colony.  The  use  of  any  of  the  Congregational  meet- 
inghouses being  denied  them,  the  projectors  of  the  church  founded  it  in  the 
"library  room"  of  the  Town  House.  This  was  their  place  of  meeting  till 
Andros  ordered  the  Old  South  opened  to  them.     When  Andros  was  overthrown 


King's  Chapel 


TREMONT  TEMPLE  25 

the  rector  and  his  leading  parishioners  were  imprisoned  till  their  return  to  Eng- 
land (see  p.  19).  The  remnant  of  the  congregation  resumed  services  in  the 
chapel,  which  was  finished  a  few  months  after  Andros's  departure. 

In  1 7 10  the  chapel  was  enlarged  to  twice  its  size.  Then  the  exterior  was 
embellished  with  a  tower  surmounted  by  a  tall  mast  half-way  up  which  was  a 
large  gilt  crown  and  at  the  top  a  weathercock.  Within  the  enlarged  chapel  the 
governor's  pew,  raised  on  a  dais  higher  by  two  steps  than  the  others,  hung  with 
crimson  curtains  and  surmounted  by  the  royal  crown,  was  opposite  the  pulpit, 
which  itself  stood  on  the  north  side  at  about  the  center.  Near  the  governor's 
pew  was  another  reserved  for  officers  of  the  British  army  and  navy.  Displayed 
along  the  walls  and  suspended  from  the  pillars  were  the  escutcheons  and  coats  of 
arms  of  the  king,  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  Governors  Dudley,  Shute,  Burnet,  Belcher, 
and  Shirley,  and  other  persons  of  distinction.  At  the  east  end  was  "  the  altar 
piece,  whereon  was  the  Glory  painted,  the  Ten  Commandments,  the  Lord's 
Prayer,  the  Creed,  and  some  texts  of  Scripture."  The  communion  plate  was  a 
royal  gift. 

Less  than  a  block  beyond  King's  Chapel,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
Tremont  Street,  we  come  to  the  Granary  Burying  Ground,  established 
only  about  thirty  years  after  the  Chapel  Burying  Ground  (in  1660),  and 
of  greater  historic  interest,  perhaps,  because  of  the  more  numerous 
memorials  here. 

On  the  short  walk  from  the  Chapel  we  pass  the  site  of  the  birthplace 
of  Edward  E.  Hale,  covered  by  the  upper  part  of  the  Parker  House.  This 
hotel  also  covers,  on  its  School  Street  side,  the  site  of  the  home  of  Oliver 
Wendell,  the  maternal  grandfather  of  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes,  for  whom 
he  was  named.  On  Bosworth  Street,  the  first  passage  opening  from 
Tremont  Street,  opposite  the  burying  ground,  —  a  courtlike  street  end- 
ing with  stone  steps  which  lead  down  to  a  more  ancient  cross  street,  — 
was  Doctor  Holmes's  home  for  eighteen  years  from  1841,  the  "house  at 
the  left  hand  next  the  farther  corner,"  which  he  describes  in  "  The 
Autocrat." 

The  Tremont  Temple,  next  above  the  Parker  House,  is  the  building 
of  the  Union  Temple  (Baptist)  Church,  founded  in  1839,  a  free  church 
from  its  beginning.  It  is  the  fourth  temple  on  this  site,  each  of  the 
previous  ones  having  been  destroyed  by  fire.  The  first  one  wras  a 
theater  remodeled  in  1843.  The  playhouse  was  the  Tremont 
Theater,  first  opened  in  1835,  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  its 
class  and  time. 

It  was  here  that  Charlotte  Cushman  made  her  debut,  in  April,  1835  ;  that 
Fanny  Kemble  first  appeared  before  a  Boston  audience ;  that  operas  were  first 
produced  in  Boston. 

In  the  large  public  hall  of  the  second  Tremont  Temple  Charles  Dickens  gave 
his  readings  during  his  last  visit  to  America,  in  1868. 


26 


GRANARY  BURYING  GROUND 


The  large  Tremont  Building  opposite  occupies  the  site  of  the  Tre- 
mont  House,  a  famous  inn  through  its  career  of  more  than  sixty  years 
from  1829,  of  which  Dickens  wrote,  "it  has  more  galleries,  colon- 
nades, piazzas,  and  passages  than  I  can  remember,  or  the  reader  would 
believe."  Preceding  the  inn,  fine  mansion  houses  with  gardens  were 
here,  one  of  them  being  the  estate  of  Thomas  Handasyd  Perkins,  a 
genuine  "solid  man  of  Boston,"  a  benefactor  of  the  Boston  Athenaeum 
and  of  other  Boston  institutions. 

On  the  gates  of  the  Granary  Burying  Ground, 
set  in  their  high  ivy-mantled  stone  frame,  are 
tablets  inscribed  with  the  names  of  many  of  the 
notables  buried  here.  They  include  governors  of 
various  periods,  —  Richard  Bellingham,  William 
Dummer,  James  Bowdoin,  Increase  Sumner, 
James  Sullivan,  and  Christopher  Gore ;  signers 
of  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  —  John 
Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  and  Robert  Treat 
Paine ;  ministers,  —  John  Baily  (of  the  First 
Church),  Samuel  Willard  (of  the  Old  South 
Church),  Jeremy  Belknap  (founder  of  the  Massa- 
chusetts Historical  Society),  and  John  Lathrop 
(of  the  Second  Church) ;  Chief  Justice  Samuel 
Sewall;  Peter  Faneuil;  Paul  Revere;  Josiah 
Franklin  and  wife,  parents  of  Benjamin  Franklin  ; 
Thomas  Cushing,  lieutenant 
governor,  1 780-1 788;  John 
Phillips,  first  mayor  of  Bos- 
ton, and  father  of  Wendell 
Phillips;  and  the  victims  of 
the  Boston  Massacre  of  1770. 
Besides  these,  others  of 
like  distinction  are  entombed 
here,  among  them  James 
Otis ;  the  Rev.  Thomas  Prince, 
the  learned  annalist ;  the  Rev. 
Pierre  Daille,  minister  of  the 
French  church  formed  by 
the  Huguenots  who  came  to 
Boston  after  the  revocation 
of  the  Edict  of  Nantes; 
Edward  Rawson,  secretary  of 
the   Colony ;    Josiah  Willard,  Granary  Burying  Ground 


■  il  V."!ii 


GRANARY  BURYING  GROUND 


27 


secretary  of  the  Province;  and  John  Hull,  the  "mint  master  "  of  1652. 
General  Joseph  Warren's  tomb  was  here  (the  Minot  tomb,  adjoining 
that  of  Hancock)  from  after  the  obsequies  in  King's  Chapel  in  1776 
till  1825.  Then  his  remains  were  removed  to  the  Warren  tomb  under 
St.  Paul's  Church.  In  1855  they  were  again  removed,  being  finally 
deposited  in  the  family  vault  in  Forest  Hills  Cemetery,  Roxbury  Dis- 
trict. Wendell  Phillips  (died  1884)  was  also  temporarily  buried  here, 
beside  the  tomb  of  his  father,  at  the  right  of  the  entrance  gate.  After 
the  death  of  his  widow,  two  years  later,  his  remains  were  removed  to 
Milton  and  placed  by  her  side. 

The  most  conspicuous  monuments  here,  all  in  view  from  the  side- 
walk, are  the  bowlders  marking  the  tombs  of  Samuel  Adams  and 
James  Otis,  the  former  near  the  fence,  north  of  the  entrance  gate, 
the  latter,  also  near  the  fence,  south  of  the  gate ;  the  monument  to 
Benjamin  Franklin's  parents,  in  the  middle  of  the  yard;  and  the  John 
Hancock  monument,  in  the  southwestern  corner.  The  inscriptions  on 
the  Adams  and  Otis  bowlders  give  these  records 

Here  lies  buried 

Samuel  Adams 

Signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence 

Governor  of  this  Commonwealth  ,, 

A  leader  of  men  and  an  ardent  patriot 

Born  1722  Died  1803  * 


Here  lies  buried 

James  Otis 

Orator  and  Patriot  of  the  Revolution 

Famous  for  his  argument 

against  Writs  of  Assistance 

Born  1725         Died  1783 


Adams's  grave  is  in  the  Checkley  tomb,  which  adjoins  the  sidewalk  ; 
Otis's  is  in  the  Cunningham  tomb,  bearing  now  the  name  of  George 
Longley.  The  bowlders  were  placed  by  the  Massachusetts  Society  of 
the  Sons  of  the  Revolution  in  1898,  as  the  inscriptions  show. 

The  epitaph  on  the  Franklin  monument  was  composed  by  Franklin, 
and  first  appeared  on  a  marble  stone  which  he  caused  to  be  placed  here. 
The  granite  obelisk  was  provided  by  a  number  of  citizens  in  1827,  when 
the  stone  had  become  decayed,  and  the  inscription  was  reproduced  on 
the  bronze  tablet  set  in  its  face : 


28 


GRANARY   BURYING  GROUND 


Josiah  Franklin 

and 

Abiah  his  wife, 

lie  here  interred. 

They  lived  lovingly  together  in  wedlock 

fifty-five  years. 

Without  any  estate,  or  any  gainful  employment, 

By  constant  labor  and  industry, 

with  God's  blessing, 
They  maintained  a  large  family 

comfortably, 

and  brought  up  thirteen  children 

and  seven  grandchildren 

reputably. 

From  this  instance,  reader, 

Be  encouraged  to  diligence  in  thy  calling 

And  distrust  not  Providence. 

He  was  a  pious  and  prudent  man ; 

She,  a  discreet  and  virtuous  woman. 

Their  youngest  son, 

In  filial  regard  to  their  memory 

Places  this  stone 

J.  F.  born  1655,  died  1744,  ^Etat  89. 

A.  F.  born  1667,  died  1752,    85. 

The  Hancock  monument  is  a  steel  shaft,  erected  in  1895  close  by  the 
Hancock  tomb,  set  against  the  wall  of  one  of  the  buildings  which  back 
on  the  yard.     It  is  simply  inscribed : 

Obsta  Principiis 
This  memorial  erected 
A.D.  MDCCCXCV.  By  the  Com- 
monwealth of  Massachu- 
setts to  mark  the  grave  of 
John  Hancock. 

Near  by  the  Hancock  tomb  is  a  dilapidated  slate  slab  with  the  inscrip- 
tion, "  Frank,  servant  of  John  Hancock  Esq'r,  lies  interred  here,  who 
died  23d  Jan'ry  1771,  get  at  38." 

The  graves  of  the  victims  of  the  Boston  Massacre  are  unmarked.  For- 
merly a  beautiful  larch  tree  grew  over  the  spot.  It  is  said  to  be  twenty  feet 
back  from  the  sidewTalk  fence  and  sixty  feet  south  of  the  Tremont  Building. 

The  grave  of  Benjamin  Woodbridge,  the  young  victim  of  the  duel 
on  the  Common  in  1728,  is  midway  between  the  gate  and  Park  Street 
Church,  near  the  fence.  The  inscription  on  the  upright  stone  informs 
us  that  he  was  "  a  son  of  the  Honourable  Dudley  Woodbridge  Esq'r," 
and  "  dec'd  July  ye  3d,  in  ye  20th  year  of  his  age." 


PARK  STREET  CHURCH 


29 


Hancock  Monument, 
Granary  Burying  Ground 


One  stone  that  many  seek  here,  and  some  have  seemed  to  identify, 
is  not  to  be  found,  if  we  are  to  accept  the  word  of  an.  authoritative 
antiquary.  This  is  the  tablet  marking  the 
grave  of  "  Mother  Goose."  According  to 
the  late  William  H.  Whitmore,  who,  in  his 
"  Genesis  of  a  Boston  Myth,"  marshaled  strong 
evidence  to  sustain  his  assertion,  "  Mother 
Goose "  was  not  Elizabeth  Vergoose,  the 
worthy  seventeenth-century  matron,  as  has 
been  alleged ;  nor  was  "  Mother  Goose "  a 
name  that  originated  in  Boston. 

In  this  yard,  as  in  King's  Chapel  Burying 
Ground,  many  of  the  old  stones  were  years  ago 
ruthlessly  shifted  from  the  graves  to  which 
they  belonged,  which  caused  the  remark  of 
Dr.  Holmes  that  "  Epitaphs  were  never  famous 
for  truth,  but  the  old  reproach  of  '  Here  lies ' 
never  had  such  a  wholesale  illustration  as 
in  these  outraged  burial  places,  where  the 
stone  does  lie  above  and  the  bones  do  not 
lie  beneath." 

Park  Street  Church,  with  its  graceful  spire,  picturesquely  finishing  the 
corner  of  Tremont  and  Park  streets,  dates  from  1809.     It  is  the  best 
example  remaining  in  the  city  of  the  early  nineteenth-century  ecclesias- 
•,.■/  v        r  tical  architecture.     It  was  designed  by  an  English 

,,  v  .    .  |l       .  architect,  Peter  Banner,  but  the  Ionic  and  Corin- 

thian capitals   of   the  steeple   were   the 
work  of  the  Bostonian  Solomon  Willard. 

It  was  the  first  Trinitarian  church  estab- 
lished after  the  invasion  of  Unitarianism  in 
the  Puritan  churches,  and  the  fervor  with 
which  the  unadulterated  orthodox  doctrine 
was  preached  by  its  earlier  ministers  made  its 
pulpit  famous,  and  led  the  unrighteous  to 
bestow  upon  the  point  which  it  faces  the  title 
of  "  Brimstone  Corner."  Its  history  is  notable. 
It  is  marked  as  the  place  in  which  "  America  " 
was  first  publicly  sung.  The  hymn  was  written 
by  the  Rev.  Samuel  F.  Smith  to  fit  some  music 
for  Dr.  Lowell  Mason,  music  master  of  Boston, 
and  was  given  for  the  first  time  at  a  children's 
celebration  here  on  July  4,  1832.  Here  on  a  preceding  4th  of  July  (1829), 
William  Lloyd  Garrison,  then  not  yet  twenty-four  years  old,  gave  his  first  public 


3° 


PARK  STREET   CHURCH 


address  in  Boston  against  slavery.  In  1849  Charles  Sumner  gave  his  great 
address  on  "  The  War  System  of  Nations,"  at  the  annual  convention  of  the 
American  Peace  Society,  which  that  year  began  to  hold  its  sessions  here.  This 
remained  the  Peace  Society's  regular  place  of  meet- 
ing for  a  long  period.  The  patriotic  sermons  of 
the   Civil  War  preached  here  by  Dr.  A.  L.  Stone 


j 

■ft..  .A^ 

3 

; 

I   .■■■. 

"H 

1  ^* 

i  h    5H    t,  j 

2.  \ 

Park  Street  Church 

(minister  of  the  church  from   1849  to    1866) 
been  called  "a  part  of  Boston  history." 


have 


This  church  occupies  the  site  of  the  town 
granary,  a  grain   house    (first  set  up   on   the 
Common,  opposite,  in  1737)  from  which  grain 
was  sold  to  the  needy  by  the  town's  agents. 
It  was  from  its  proximity  to  the  granary  that 
the  old  burying  ground  got  its  name. 

Looking  up  Hamilton  Place,  opposite  Park 
Street  Church,  we  see  the  side  of  the  old 
Music  Hall,  now  a  theater. 
This  is  a  building  of  pleasant 
memories.  It  was  erected  in 
1852,  projected  chiefly  by  the 
Harvard  Musical  Association, 
then  the  representative  of 
classical  orchestral  music  in  Boston.  Nearly  thirty  years  later  (1881)  the 
Boston  Sympho7iy  Orchestra  began  its  career  here,  under  the  generous 
patronage  of  Henry  L.  Higginson.     Once  the  hall  had  in  its  "great 


BOSTON   COMMON  AND  ITS   SURROUNDINGS 


3* 


organ"  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  instruments  in  the  world,  but  this 
was  permitted  to  be  sold  and  removed  at  a  time  when  the  hall  was 
undergoing  alterations.  For  some  years,  during  the  latter  part  of  his  life, 
Music  Hall  was  Theodore  Parker's  pulpit ;  and  at  a  later  period  that  of 
W.  H.  H.  Murray,  after  he  had  been  a  pastor  of  Park  Street  Church. 

Boston  Common  and  its  surroundings.  Situated  in  the  heart  of  the 
city,  the  Common  is  unique  among  municipal  public  grounds.  Its 
existence  and  preservation  are  due  to  the  wise  forethought  of  the  first 
settlers  of  the  town. 


Its  integrity  rests  primarily  on  a  town  order  passed  in  1640,  reserving  it  as 
open  ground,  or  common  field.  This  was  strengthened  by  a  clause  in  the  city 
charter  forbidding  its 
sale  or  lease.  Subse- 
quent acts  prohibit  the 
laying  out  of  any  high- 
way or  street  railway 
upon  or  through  it,  or 
the  taking  of  any  part 
of  it  for  widening  or 
altering  any  street,with- 
out  the  consent  of  the 
citizens. 


Beacon  Street  Mall 


It  dates  actually 
from  1634,  four  years 
after  the  settlement 
of  the  town,  when  it  was  laid  out  as  "  a  place  for  a  trayning  field  "  and  for 
"  the  feeding  of  cattell."  A  training  field  in  part  it  has  remained  to  the 
present  day,  and  cattle  did  not  cease  to  graze  on  it  till  the  thirties  of  the 
nineteenth  century.  Originally  it  was  larger  than  it  is  now,  extending 
to  the  Tremont  Building  on  Tremont  and  Beacon  streets  in  one  direc- 
tion, and  across  Tremont  Street  to  West  and  Mason  streets  in  another. 
The  taking  from  the  north  end  for  the  Granary  Burying  Ground  in  1660 
was  its  earliest  curtailment.  On  the  west  side,  where  is  now  Charles 
Street,  it  at  first  met  the  Back  Bay,  the  waters  of  which  came  up  to 
this  line.  Its  present  extent  is  48!  acres,  exclusive  of  the  old  burying 
ground  on  part  of  its  south  or  Boylston  Street  side.  Its  surface  has 
been  much  made  over,  but  without  obliterating  altogether  its  old-time 
contour.  The  broad  tree-lined  malls  which  traverse  it  display  the  taste 
and  large-mindedness  of  the  later  town  and  earlier  city  fathers.  Many 
majestic  elms  which  once  embellished  the  place  have  been  destroyed  by 
time  and  changes.  The  building  of  the  Subway  beneath  the  Tremont 
Street  mall  removed  the  oldest  row  and  some  of  the  finest  of  them ; 


32 


BOSTON   COMMON  AND  ITS   SURROUNDINGS 


but  there  yet  remain  numerous  stalwart  specimens,  with  other  varieties 
of  trees,  shading  and  beautifying  the  several  paths. 

Of  the  monuments  here  the  Army  and  Navy  Monument,  the  granite 
Doric  column  of  which  reaches  above  the  trees,  is  most  conspicuous. 
This  occupies  the  highest  elevation  in  the  inclosure,  the  point  where 
the  British  artillery  were  stationed  during 
the  Siege.     It  is  the  work  of  Martin  Mil- 
more,  and  was  erected  in  1877.    The  statues 
on  the  projecting  pedestals  of  the  plinth 
represent  the  Soldier,  the  Sailor,  the  Muse 
of    History,  and  Peace.      The   bas-reliefs 
JgJj-L,  between   them  depict   The   Departure   of 

the  Regiment,  The  Sanitary  Commission, 
The  Achievements  of  the  Navy,  and  The 
Return  from  the  War  and  Surrender  of 
the  Battle  Flags  to  the  Governor.  The 
figures  on  these  bas-reliefs  are  mostly  por- 
traits of  soldiers  or  citizens  prominent  in 
the  Civil  War  period.  The  sculptured 
figures  at  the  base  of  the  shaft  typify 
the  North,  South,  East,  and  West.  The 
crowning  statue  represents  the  "  Genius  of 
America."  The  monument  bears  this 
inscription,  written  by  President  Eliot  of 
Harvard  University:  To  the  men  of  Boston 
who  died  for  their  country  on  land  and  sea 
in  the  war  which  kept  the  Union  whole, 
destroyed  slavery  and  maintained  the  Con- 
stitution, the  grateful  city  has  built  this 
Soldiers'  Monument  monument  that  their  example  may  speak  to 

comittg  generations. 
At  the  foot  of  this  hill,  on  the  east  side,  stood  the  "  Great  Elm  " 
till  its  fall  in  a  windstorm  in  1876,  supposed  to  have  been  old  when  the 
town  was  settled,  the  scene  of  executions  in  early  Colony  days, — 
perhaps  that  of  Anne  Hibbens  for  "witchcraft "  in  1656,  a  limb  of  the 
tree  serving  for  gallows.  An  iron  tablet  marks  the  spot,  and  in  its  place 
is  another  elm  grown  from  a  shoot  of  it.  Not  far  from  the  "  Great 
Elm"  the  Quakers  were  executed.  Beneath  its  branches  it  is  sup- 
posed that  the  fatal  duel  in  which  young  Woodbridge  was  slain  (see 
p.  7)  took  place. 

Near  by  lies  the  historic  "  Frog  Pond,"  so  called,  as  the  town  wits 
have  it,  because  it  was  never  known  to  harbor  a  frog.     The  real  frog 


PARADE    GROUND 


33 


pond  was  the  Horse  or  Cow  Pond,  a  shallow  pool  where  the  cows 
slaked  their  thirst  or  cooled  their  legs,  which  lay  in  the  lowlands  about 
the  present  band  stand.  The  present  pond  is  the  survivor  of  three 
marshy  bogs  originally  within  the  Common.  It  was  the  scene  of  the 
formal  introduction  of  the  public  water  system  in  1848,  for  which  cele- 
bration James  Russell  Lowell  wrote  his  Ode  on  Water. 

West  of  the  Frog  Pond  lies  the  Parade  Ground,  which  represents,  in 
small  compass,  the  original  training  field  of  the  Colonial  trainbands.  It 
has  been  the  chief  mustering  place  in  war  times  from  Provincial  to 
modern  days.  In  1775,  when  the  Common  was  the  British  camp,  the 
force  for  Bunker  Hill  was  arrayed  here  before  crossing  the  river  to 
Charlestown.  In  the  preceding  April  the  detachment  that  moved  on 
Lexington  and  Concord  started  from  near  it,  taking  boats  on  the  bay. 
Now  it  is  the  place  where  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Com- 


Frog  Pond 


pany  with  great  gravity  go  through  their  annual  time-honored  evolu- 
tions, and  the  boys  of  the  school  regiments  have  their  clever  May 
trainings. 

The  granite  shaft  with  its  bronze  figure  of  "  Revolution,"  commemo- 
rating the  Boston  Massacre  of  1770,  popularly  called  the  Crispus 
Attucks  Monument,  stands  in  the  green  facing  Lafayette  Mall  on  the 
Tremont  Street  side.  It  is  by  Robert  Kraus,  and  was  erected  by  the 
State  in  1888.  The  bas-relief  on  the  base  reproduces  a  crude  contem- 
porary picture  of  the  scene  published  in  London  together  with  the 
"  Short  Narrative  "  authorized  by  the  town.  The  inscriptions  are  these 
words  of  John  Adams  and  Webster : 

On  that  night  the  foundation  of  American 
Independence  was  laid.     JOHN  ADAMS. 

From  that  moment  we  may  date  the  sever- 
ance of  the  British  Empire.     DANIEL  WEBSTER. 

The  names  of  the  victims  are  inscribed  on  the  shaft. 


34        BOSTON   COMMON  AND  ITS   SURROUNDINGS 

The  promenade  of  Lafayette  Mall  is  the  finishing  feature  of  the 
Subway  work  on  this  side  of  the  Common.  It  extends  over  the  Subway 
between  Park  and  Boylston  streets,  and  at  Boylston  Street  joins  a 
narrower  walk  which  follows  the  Subway  course  on  that  side  to  Charles 
Street,  passing  by  the  picturesque  old  Central  Burying  Ground  (estab- 
lished 1756)  which  has  among  its  graves  those  of  Gilbert  Stuart,  the 
painter,  and  M.  Julien,  the  restaurateur,  whose  fame  as  the  introducer 
of  Julien  soup  survived  him.  While  these  walks  lack  the  fringes 
of  noble  English  elms  which  characterized  the  earlier  malls  here, 
especially  the  Tremont  Street  mall  which  once  had  three  magnificent 
rows,  they  have  attractions  in  the  bordering  masses  of  other  trees  and 
in  their  openness  to  the  spacious  street-ways  free  from  street-car  tracks. 

Being  in  the  heart  of  things  Lafayette  Mall  is  an  animated  thorough- 
fare. Close  by  is  the  principal  theater  quarter  of  the  city.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  way  are  Keith's  Theater  (fronting  on  Washington 
Street,  next  east  of  Tremont)  and  the  Tremont  Theater  (near  the,  site 
of  the  second  playhouse  built  in  Boston,  —  the  Haymarket  of  1796). 
On  Washington  Street  (with  its  rear  entrance  near  the  West  Street 
corner  of  Tremont)  is  the  Boston  Theater,  and  a  little  way  above  this 
the  Park  Theater.  On  Tremont  Street  again,  just  above  Boylston 
Street,  is  the  Majestic  Theater.  On  Hollis  Street,  off  Tremont,  is  the 
Hollis  Street  Theater  (its  house  including  the  brick  walls  of  the  third 
Hollis  Street  Church  dating  from  1808,  the  pulpit  of  John  Pierpont 
and  Thomas  Starr  King,  and  the  successor  of  the  earlier  Hollis  Street 
Church  of  Mather  Byles,  the  "  Tory,  wit,  and  scholar,"  used,  neverthe- 
less, by  the  British  for  barracks  during  the  Siege).  On  Boylston  Street, 
opposite  the  Boylston  Street  walk,  is  the  Colonial  Theater  (on  the  site 
of  the  first  Boston  Public  Library  building). 

In  the  same  neighborhood  is  a  notable  group  of  hotels,  including 
the  Touraine  on  the  southeast  corner  of  Tremont  and  Boylston  streets 
(occupying  the  site  of  the  mansion  house  of  President  John  Quincy 
Adams,  birthplace  of  Charles  Francis  Adams,  Sr.)  and  the  Adams 
House  on  Washington  Street  (covering  the  site  of  the  eighteenth- 
century  Lamb  Tavern,  an  early  stagecoach  starting  place).  A  little 
above  the  latter,  opposite  the  opening  of  Boylston  Street,  is  a  revo- 
lutionary landmark,  the  site  of  the  Liberty  Tree,  the  rallying  place  of 
the  Sons  of  Liberty  in  the  prerevolutionary  period,  where  the  effigies 
were  hung  in  the  Stamp  Act  excitement.  The  business  building  that 
now  covers  the  spot  displays  on  its  front  an  old  tablet  with  a  repre- 
sentation of  a  tree  and  beneath  these  lines : 

Sons  of  Liberty,  1766 
Independence  of  their  country,  1776. 


BOSTON   SUBWAY 


35 


The  adjacent  hotel,  popularly  known  as  "  Brigham's,"  stands  in  place 
of  the  Liberty  Tree  Tavern,  where  the  Liberty  men  refreshed  them- 
selves after  their  meetings  at  the  tree.  "  Brigham's  "  was  originally  the 
Lafayette  Hotel,  erected  to  mark  the  historical  spot  in  season  for  the 
great  welcome  to  Lafayette  on  the  Frenchman's  memorable  last  visit  to 
the  country  in  1824;  and  so  was  named  in  his  honor.  It  was  in  com- 
memoration of  this  visit,  very  much  later,  —  three  quarters  of  a  century 
afterward,  —  that  Lafayette  Mall  received  its  name. 

The  selection  is  based  on  a  pretty  incident  of  that  visit.  On  the  reception 
day  the  school  children  were  lined  up  along  Tremont  Street  mall,  and,  as 
Lafayette  was  passing  in  the  procession,  they  cast  bouquets  in  his  path  so  that 
he  walked  upon  a  carpet  of  natural  flowers. 

Midway  up  Boylston  Street  between  Washington  and  Tremont 
streets  is  the  building  of  the  Young  Men's  Christian  Union  (instituted 
1 851)  with  its  stone  clock  tower. 
On  the  Tremont  Street  corner 
facing  the  Lafayette  Mall  is  the 
white  granite  Masonic  Temple  (the 
second  on  this  site,  built  in  1898- 
1899),  headquarters  of  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Massachusetts,  and 
housing  thirteen  lodges. 

Occupying  the  streets  east  of  the 
mall  is  the  heart  of  the  retail  shop- 
ping quarter.  Below  the  Temple 
Place  corner,  hedged  in  by  busy 
stores,  is  St.  Paul's  Church,  the 
fourth  Episcopal  church  in  Boston, 
dating  from   1820,  a  Grecian-like 

temple  of  gray  granite,  the  hexastyle  porticoes  of  Potomac  sandstone. 
Solomon  Willard  carved  the  Ionic  capitals  ;  Alexander  Parris  designed 
the  whole.  The  pediment  is  bare,  the  original  design  of  a  bas-relief  of 
Paul  preaching  at  Athens  never  having  been  carried  out.  It  was  in 
one  of  the  tombs  beneath  this  church  that  General  Joseph  Warren's 
remains  rested  for  thirty  years  after  their  second  removal.  In  another 
tomb  Prescott  the  historian  was  buried. 

At  the  head  of  the  Park  Street  mall  are  the  Park  Street  entrance 
and  exit  stations  of  the  Boston  Subway.  The  upper  west  side  building 
is  the  entrance  for  south-bound  surface  cars  and  south-bound  elevated 
trains ;  the  upper  east  building,  an  exit  only ;  the  lower  east  building, 
both  entrance  and  exit  for  north-bound  elevated  trains  ;  and  the  lowei 


Inside  the  Subway 


36 


BOSTON   SUBWAY 


west  building,  entrance  and  exit  for  south-bound  cars.  Above  the  stair- 
ways of  the  Park  Street  entrance  a  bronze  tablet,  placed  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  initial  opening  of  the  Subway  in  1897,  gives  the  following 
data :  This  Subway  authorized  by  the  Legislatures  of  1893  and  1894. 
Hon.  Nathan  Matthews,  Jr.,  Mayor  of  the  City  of  Boston.  Built  by  the 
Boston  Transit   Commission.      Howard  Adams   Carson,  chief  engineer. 

Begun  at  the  Public  Gar- 
den, 28  March,  1895,  was 
opened  to  this  point  for 
public  travel  1  September, 
1897.  The  work  was  com- 
pleted throughout  and 
the  entire  Subway  opened 
September  3,  1898.  Its 
length  is  about  one  and 
two  thirds  miles.  Its 
course  is  shown  by  the 
accompanying  map. 

The  surface  cars  com- 
ing from  the  west  and 
south  enter  at  the  Pub- 
lic Garden  and  make  the 
loop  at  the  Park  Street 
Station,  whence  they  re- 
turn and  emerge  at  the 
Public  Garden.  Those 
coming  from  the  north 
and  east  use  that  part 
of  the  Subway  between 
Scollay   Square  and   the 

North  Station  on  Cause- 
Subway  Route  .  , 

way  Street.    The  elevated 

trains  enter  and  leave  at  the  ends  at  Pleasant  Street  and  Causeway 

Street.     The   elevated  system  was  initiated  in   1900.     The  course  of 

the  line  is  indicated  on  the  map  on  the  opposite  page. 


o><f 

«- 

_                North  Union  Sta.%t 

^KfAY>L4RKET  S«J. 

•.-'-"^o>'°5         s"^y  ~'~\m[ ,,jl)\| ADAMS  sq.  ojr0" 

SCOLLAY  SO.$||jj|t^    iB^^^ 

State  House Mi 

^^          MW^            Post  Office 

^^^                             M^PARKST. 

\      Common      M 

\        PWBOYLSTOn  ST. 

BOYLSTO*  *T-       |J£                 SouthUnion  Stal      1 

i 

i 

The  Subway  is  owned  by  the  city  and  leased  to  the  Boston  Elevated  Railway 
Company  for  a  term  of  years,  at  an  annual  compensation  of  4%  per  cent  of  the 
net  cost  of  the  work.  The  number  of  cars  passing  around  the  Park  Street  loop 
during  the  busy  hour  is  245.  About  28,000,000  passengers  are  annually  handled 
at  the  Park  Street  Station. 

The  construction  of  an  additional  system  of  tunnels  and  subways,  four  tracked, 
for  elevated  and   surface-car   use,  was  authorized   by  legislative  act  in  1902, 


SHAW   MONUMENT 


37 


subsequently  accepted  by  the  people.  This  extends  under  Washington  Street 
from  its  junction  with  Broadway,  which  leads  to  South  Boston,  and  is  to  connect 
with  the  East  Boston  Tunnel  and  the  existing  Subway. 

At  the  head  of  the  Beacon  Street  mall,  opposite  the  State  House,  is 
the  Colonel  Robert  Gould  Shaw  Memorial,  facing  Beacon  Street,  between 
two  majestic  elms,  the  most  imposing  piece  of  outdoor  sculpture  in  the 
city.  Colonel  Shaw  was  the  commander  of  the  Fifty-fourth  Regiment 
of  Massachusetts  Infantry,  com- 
posed of  colored  troops,  in  the 
Civil  War,  and  was  killed  at  the 
head  of  his  command  while  lead- 
ing the  assault  on  Fort  Wagner, 


NORTH  I'NION  STA 

MAY-MARKET  SO  & 


>.  £5ADAMS  SO    , 

SCOLLAYS«£JW        STATE  | 

/      EJOld  State  Ho. 

State  House  D      AJ       p    rowesE  Iwmakt 
parkst£?n     Post  Office 


ment  commemorates  the  colored 
soldiers  in  that  event  as  well  as 
their  leader.  It  consists  of  a 
statue  of  Colonel  Shaw  mounted, 
with  his  men  pressing  close  beside 
him,  in  high  relief  upon  a  large 
bronze  tablet.  The  sculptor  was 
Augustus  St.  Gaudens,  and  the 
architect  of  the  elaborate  stone 
frame  was  Charles  F.  McKim. 
The  inscriptions  are  unusually 
extensive  and  interesting,  includ- 
ing verses  of  James  Russell  Lowell 
and  Emerson  and  a  memorial  by 
President  Eliot. 

The  monument  was  erected  and 
dedicated  in  1897.  Its  cost  was  met 
from  a  fund  raised  by  voluntary 
subscriptions. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  Beacon 
Street,    just    below    Hancock 

Avenue,  — the  walk  along  the  west  side  of  the  State  House  grounds, 
—  is  the  site  of  a  long-cherished  landmark,  the  removal  of  which 
occasioned  regrets  that  grow  keener  as  time  advances.  This  was  the 
mansion  house  of  John  Hancock.  The  site  is  marked  by  a  modest 
bronze  tablet  set  in  the  low  iron  fence  in  front  of  the  brownstone 
building,  the  present  publishing  house  of  Messrs.  Ginn  &  Company, 
which  now  occupies  the  spot : 


C:-i4_~L33T0'WN    \  M5T, 


'  NO. HAMPTON    ST 


KOX.BURY  ©1ST. 


Elevated  Railway  Route 


38 


JOHN   HANCOCK  HOUSE 


Here  stood  the  residence  of 

John  Hancock, 
a  prominent  and  patriotic 
Merchant  of  Boston,  the  first 
Signer  of  the  Declaration  of 
American  Independence,  and 
First  Governor  of  Massachusetts, 
under  the  State  Constitution. 


At  the  time  of  its  demolition  the  mansion,  besides  being  of  exceptional 
historic  value,  was  a  rare  type  of  our  provincial  domestic  architecture, 
and  was  well  fitted  by  situation  and  character  for  preservation  as  the 

official  dwelling  of  the 


governors  of  the  Com- 
monwealth, as  was 
proposed  some  years 
before.  The  main  struc- 
ture was  then  nearly  as 
in  Governor  Hancock's 
day,  when  it  was  called 
the  "  seat  of  his  Excel- 
lency the  Governor," 
and  it  contained  much 
of  the  furnishings  and 
appointments  of  his 
time,  with  the  family 
portraits  by  Copley  and 
Smibert.  A  measure  for 
its  purchase  by  the  state 
for  the  governor's  house  was  reported  to  the  Legislature  in  1859  by  an 
influential  committee;  but  the  project  failed.  At  length,  in  February, 
1863,  the  land  which  it  occupied  was  sold.  For  a  while  thereafter  it 
served  as  a  museum  of  historical  relics,  and  then,  a  scheme  for  its 
removal  and  reerection  elsewhere  failing,  it  was  pulled  down.  Souvenirs 
of  it  were  eagerly  sought  as  it  fell.  The  knocker  on  the  front  door  was 
given  to  Dr.  Holmes,  who  placed  it  on  the  door  of  the  "  old  gambrel- 
roofed  house "  in  Cambridge,  where  it  remained  till  that  also  was 
demolished.  The  flight  of  stone  steps  which  led  up  to  the  entrance  are 
now  in  service  on  Pinebank,  Jamaica  Park.  The  purchasers  of  the 
land,  J.  M.  Beebe  and  Gardner  Brewer,  two  leading  Boston  merchants, 
erected  the  present  stately  double  house  here  for  their  occupancy. 
Messrs.  Ginn  &  Company  became  established  in  No.  29  in  1901,  and 
their  business  offices  fully  occupy  the  spacious  interior. 


Shaw  Monument 


JOHN  HANCOCK  HOUSE 


39 


The  old  mansion  was  of  Quincy  granite  obtained  from  the  surface,  as  in  the 
case  of  King's  Chapel,  squared  and  well  hammered.  The  principal  features  of 
the  fagade  were  the  broad  front  door  at  the  head  of  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  gar- 
nished with  pillars  and  an  ornamental  door  head ;  and  the  ornamented  central 
window  over  it.  The  high  gambrel  roof  with  dormer  windows  showed  a  carved 
balcony  railing  inclosing  its  upper  portion.  The  interior  comprised  a  nobly 
paneled  hall,  having  a  broad  staircase  with  carved  and  twisted  balusters,  which 
divided  the  house  in  the  middle  and  extended  through  on  both  stories  from 
front  to  rear.  On  the  landing,  part  way  up  the  staircase,  was  a  circular-headed 
window  looking  out  upon  the  garden,  with  a  broad  and  capacious  window  seat. 
On  the  entrance  floor,  at  the  right  of  the  hall,  was  the  great  dining-room,  seven- 
teen by  twenty-five  feet,  also  elaborately  paneled  from  floor  to  ceiling.  Until  the 
widening  of  Beacon  Street  the  house  stood  well  back  from  the  street  on  ground 
elevated  above  it.  The  approach  was  then  through  a  "  neat  garden  bordered 
with  small  trees  "  and  shrubbery.  The  mansion  then,  also,  had  two  large  wings, 
one  on  the  east  side  containing  a  great 
ballroom,  the  other  on  the  west  side 
appropriated  to  the  kitchen  and  other 
domestic  offices.  Beyond  the  west 
wing  was  the  coach  house,  and  adjoin- 
ing that  the  stable. 

Behind  the  mansion  were  the  gar- 
dens and  fruit-tree  nurseries,  extend- 
ing up  the  side  of  the  then  existing 
peak  of  Beacon  Hill  where  the  State 
House  Annex  stands.  The  mansion 
with  the  estate  came  to  John  Hancock 
in  1777,  upon  the  death  of  Lydia 
Hancock,  widow  of  his  uncle,  Thomas  J"^  Hancock  Hoi 
Hancock,  who  built  the  house.  The 
estate  then  included  the  territory  occupied  by  the  State  House,  and  extended 
along  Beacon  Street  to  Joy  Street.  During  the  Siege  Lord  Percy  occupied  the 
mansion  for  some  time. 

Let  us  now  step  back  to  the  opposite  side  of  Beacon  Street  a 
moment  and  take  a  sweeping  survey  of  the  fine  line  of  Beacon  Street 
houses  down  the  hill.  Standing  by  the  Joy  Street  steps  to  the  Com- 
mon, which  lead  to  the  head  of  Holmes's  "  Long  Path  "  (the  mall  running 
southward  across  the  Common's  length  to  Boylston  Street,  —  the  scene 
of  the  crisis  in  the  "Autocrat's"  courtship  of  the  schoolmistress),  wTe 
have  the  best  point  of  view.  Looking  westward  at  the  lower  corner 
of  Walnut  Street,  the  next  opening  below  Joy  Street,  we  see  the 
house  in  which  Wendell  Phillips  was  born.  Lower  down  is  the  Somer- 
set Club,  —  the  stone  double-swell-front  house  originally  the  "  David 
Sears  mansion,"  —  by  the  site  of  the  house  in  wThich  John  Singleton  Copley 
lived  when  painting   his    remarkable    Boston   portraits.     Still  farther 


The 


.737-1863 


4o 


STATE   HOUSE 


down,  below  the  next  side  opening,  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the 
painted  brick  "swell"  of  the  Prescott  house  (No.  55),  the  home  of  the 
historian  William  H.  Prescott  through  the  last  fourteen  years  of 
his  life. 

From  the  State  House  to  the  Old  South.  The  front  of  the  State 
House,  with  its  terraced  lawn,  occupies  the  cow  pasture  of  the  Han- 
cock estate,  comprising  about  two  acres,  which  the  town  purchased  of 
John  Hancock's  heirs  for  four  thousand  dollars  and  conveyed  to  the 
Commonwealth.  This  is  the  historic  "  Bulfinch  Front,"  designed  by 
Charles  Bulfinch  and  erected  in  1 795-1 797.     It  alone  constituted  the 

Massachusetts  State 
House  for  more  than 
half  a  century.  Then 
a  new  part,  extend- 
ing back  upon  Mt. 
Vernon  Street,  was 
added  (1853-1856), 
which  came  to  be 
called  the  "  Bryant 
Addition,"  from  its 
principal  architect, 
J.  G.  F.  Bryant ;  and 
finally  the  "State 
House  Annex "  was 
erected  (1889-1895; 
Charles  E.  Brigham, 
architect),  extending 
back  from  the  Bryant 
Addition,  with  the 
archway  over  Mt. 
Vernon  Street,  to 
Derne  Street,  in  ex- 
terior design  and 
ornamentation  harmonizing  with  the  Bulfinch  Front.  Standing  on  the 
highest  point  of  land  in  the  city  proper,  the  yellow  dome  of  the  Bulfinch 
Front  (the  "  Gilded  Dome  "  since  1874,  when  gilt  was  first  applied  to  it) 
is  a  familiar  landmark  in  every  direction  by  day,  while  at  night,  lighted 
up  by  encircling  rows  of  electric  lights,  it  is  a  glistening  beacon  visible 
for  many  miles. 

Till  181 1  the  main  peak  of  Beacon  Hill  rose  directly  behind  the 
Bulfinch  Front,  a  grassy  cone-shaped  mound  about  as  high  as  the 
dome.     On  its  broad,  flat  summit  the  Beacon  was  set  up  as  early  as 


DORIC   HALL  41 

1634,  from  which  the  name  of  the  entire  hill  came,  it  having  earlier 
been  called  Centry  Hill,  from  a  lookout  established  here. 

The  Beacon  was  to  warn  the  country  on  occasions  of  danger.  It  consisted  of 
an  iron  skillet  filled  with  combustibles  for  firing,  suspended  from  an  iron  crane 
at  the  top  of  a  high  mast,  with  treenails  in  it  for  its  ascent.  This  and  its  suc- 
cessors stood  for  more  than  a  century  and  a  half,  but  it  never  seems  to  have  been 
fired  for  alarm.  During  the  Siege  the  British  pulled  the  Beacon  down  and  erected 
a  fort  in  its  stead.  It  was  reerected  after  the  Evacuation  and  stood  till  1789,  when 
it  was  blown  down  in  a  gale. 

After  the  Revolution  the  first  Independence  monument  in  the  country 
was  set  up  on  this  sightly  peak  (1 790-1 791),  —  a  plain  Doric  column  of 
brick  covered  with  stucco,  on  a  base  of  stone,  and  topped  with  a  gilded 
wooden  eagle  supporting  the  American  arms,  —  the  work  of  Bulfinch, 
now  reproduced  in  stone  and  standing  in  the  State  House  Park  on  the 
east  side  of  the  long  building.  When  the  peak  was  cut  down  (in  181 1- 
1823,  its  earth  going  principally  to  fill  the  North  Cove  which  became 
the  Mill  Pond)  this  monument  was  destroyed,  only  the  inscribed  tablets 
and  the  eagle  being  reserved.  The  tablets  are  inserted  in  the  base  of 
the  present  monument.  A  wTooden  effigy  of  the  eagle  is  now  over  the 
President's  chair  in  the  Senate  Chamber. 

The  main  approach  to  the  State  House,  up  the  long  sweep  of  broad 
stone  steps  from  Beacon  Street,  leads  to  the  spacious  porch  from 
which  opens  Doric  Hall,  the  main  hall  of  the  Bulfinch  Front.  The 
bronze  statues  on  the  terrace  lawn  are :  on  the  right  as  we  ascend, 
Daniel  Webster,  by  Hiram  Powers,  erected  in  1859  by  the  Webster 
Memorial  Committee  ;  on  the  left,  Horace  Mann,  by  Emma  Stebbins, 
erected  in  1865,  a  gift  from  school  children  and  teachers  of  the  state, 
who  gave  the  fund  for  its  execution  in  recognition  of  Horace  Mann's 
service  in  developing  the  system  of  popular  education  in  Massachusetts. 

In  Doric  Hall  we  see  the  statue  of  Washington  in  marble,  by  Sir  Fran- 
cis Chantrey,  given  to  the  state  in  1827  by  the  Washington  Monument 
Association ;  and  the  marble  statue  of  John  A.  Andrew,  the  "  war  gov- 
ernor," by  Thomas  Ball,  erected  in  1871,  the  cost  being  met  from  a 
surplus  of  $10,000  remaining  from  the  fund  subscribed  for  the  statue 
of  Edward  Everett  in  the  Public  Garden.  Set  in  a  side  wall  near 
these  statues  are  two  memorials  of  the  Washington  family,  —  fac- 
similes of  the  tombstones  of  the  ancestors  of  Washington,  from  the 
parish  church  of  Brington,  Northamptonshire,  England,  given  to  the 
state  by  Charles  Sumner  in  1 861,  to  whom  they  were  presented  by  Earl 
Spencer.  Against  the  walls  on  either  side  of  the  Washington  statue 
are  tablets  to  the  memory  of  Charles  Bulfinch,  and  commemorating 
the  "preservation  and  renewal  of   the   Massachusetts  State  House." 


42  STATE   HOUSE 

On  the  side  walls  are  portraits  of  sixteen  governors  of  Massachusetts. 
Four  brass  cannon  are  placed  against  the  wall,  two  of  them  consecrat- 
ing the  names  of  Major  John  Buttrick  and  Captain  Isaac  Davis,  heroes 
of  the  fight  at  Concord  Bridge,  April  19,  1775,  the  other  two,  cannon 
captured  in  the  War  of  181 2. 

From  Doric  Hall  we  enter  the  passageway  leading  into  the  "  Grand 
Staircase  Hall,"  and  from  the  latter  pass  into  "Memorial  Hall,"  the 
crowning  feature  of  this  floor.  In  the  passageway  a  large  bronze  case 
contains  the  colors  carried  by  Massachusetts  soldiers  in  the  Spanish 
War  and  returned  to  the  custody  of  the  Commonwealth.  They  were 
deposited  here  July  31,  1901.  The  skylight  in  the  ceiling  here,  it  will 
be  observed,  is  decorated  with  a  representation  of  Liberty  surrounded 
by  the  names  of  various  republics. 

The  Grand  Staircase  Hall  is  an  effective  piece  of  marble  work.  The 
great  painting  on  the  north,  wall  represents  "  James  Otis  Making  his 
Famous  Argument  Against  the  Writs  of  Assistance  in  the  Old  Town 
House  in  Boston,  in  February,  1761."  The  scene  is  the  Council 
Chamber  of  the  Old  State  House.  The  painter  was  Robert  Reid.  The 
staircases  here  are  of  Pavonazzo  marble.  The  right-hand  flight  leads  to 
the  Senate  Chamber  and  rooms  ;  the  left  side  to  the  Executive  Depart- 
ment. The  balcony  formed  by  the  third-floor  corridor  is  surmounted 
by  twelve  Ionic  columns.  Its  windows  at  the  south  are  emblematic  of 
Commerce,  Education,  Fisheries,  and  Agriculture.  At  the  head  of  the 
stairs  are  the  seal  of  the  colony,  1628-1684,  and  the  seal  of  the  state 
carved  in  marble. 

The  marble  Memorial  Hall  in  circular  form  rises  to  a  dome  with  bronze 
cornice  environed  by  the  eagles  of  the  Republic,  the  crest  of  the  Com- 
monwealth appearing  above,  in  cathedral  glass,  surrounded  by  the  seals 
of  the  other  twelve  original  states.  The  gallery  is  supported  by  six- 
teen pillars  of  Sienna  marble.  The  four  niches  with  glass  fronts 
contain  the  battle  flags  carried  by  the  Massachusetts  Volunteers  in 
the  Civil  War,  and  in  each  niche  is  a  framed  extract  from  the  address 
of  Governor  Andrew  upon  receiving  them  (all  but  a  few  which  were 
returned  later)  on  Forefathers'  Day,  December  22,  1865.  In  other 
arched  recesses  are  busts  of  Massachusetts  governors.  The  large 
paintings  on  the  walls  are  :  north  wall,  "  The  Pilgrims  on  the  May- 
flower";  south  wall,  "John  Eliot  Preaching  to  the  Indians,"  —  both  by 
Henry  Oliver  Walker;  west  wall,  "Concord  Bridge,  April  19,  1775"; 
east  wall,  "  The  Return  of  the  Colors  to  the  Custody  of  the  Common- 
wealth, December  22,  1865,"  — both  by  Edward  Simmons. 

Beyond  Memorial  Hall  the  main  staircase  leads  to  the  floor  upon 
which  is  Representatives  Hall.       This  chamber   is   finished   in   white 


STATE   LIBRARY 


43 


mahogany,  with  paneled  walls.  The  coved  ceiling  is  embellished  with 
frescoes  by  Frank  Hill  Smith.  The  historic  codfish  is  suspended 
opposite  the  Speaker's  desk  between  the  two  central  columns.  In  the 
lobby  the  statue  of  Governor  Roger  Wolcott  (placed  1907)  is  by 
Daniel  C.  French.  On  the  east  side  are  the  rooms  of  the  Secretary 
of  the  Commonwealth,  in  which  are  to  be  seen  precious  documents 
incased  in  asbestos  boxes,  —  the  Colony  Charter  of  1628,  the  Prov- 
ince Charter  of  1692,  the  Explanatory  Charter  of  George  II,  and  the 
original  Constitution  of  the  Commonwealth,  with  an  attested  copy 
made  in  1894,  the  original  having  become  in  part  illegible.  In  the 
archives,  on  the  fourth  floor,  belonging  to  this  department  are,  with 
much  other  valuable  historical  material,  the  military  records  of  the 
Narragansett  War,  of 
the  French  and  Indian 
Wars,  and  the  muster 
and  pay  rolls  of  the 
Revolution,  the  original 
depositions  and  exam- 
inations of  persons 
accused  of  witchcraft, 
and  manuscript  papers 
of  the  Revolution. 

In  the  State  Library, 
at  the  north  end  of  the 
building,  is  to  be  seen 
in  a  glass-covered  case 
the  famous  Bradford 
Manuscript,  the  "  His- 
tory of  Plimoth  Plantation  "  by  Governor  William  Bradford,  popularly 
but  erroneously  called  the  Log  of  the  Mayflower.  This  is  the  volume 
which  after  various  adventures  found  lodgment  in  the  Library  of  the 
Bishop  of  London's  Palace  at  Fulham,  and  was  returned  to  the  Com- 
monwealth by  the  Bishop  of  London  through  the  efforts  of  Senator 
Hoar  of  Massachusetts  and  the  Hon.  Thomas  F.  Bayard,  ambassa- 
dor at  the  Court  of  St.  James.  It  was  received  in  behalf  of  the  Com- 
monwealth by  Governor  Wolcott,  May  26,  1897.  The  State  Library 
contains   125,000  volumes.     C.  B.   Tillinghast  is  the  librarian. 

The  Executive  Department  and  the  quarters  of  the  Senate  are  in 
the  Bulfinch  Front.  The  Council  Chamber,  fashioned  in  the  Corinthian 
order,  has  the  old  ornamentations  designed  by  Bulfinch.  In  the  Gover- 
nor's Roo?ns  are  several  portraits  of  note.  In  the  Senate  Chamber,  occu- 
pying niches,  are  busts  of  Washington,  Franklin,  Lafayette,  Lincoln,  and 


Representatives  Hall  — The  H 


44  STATE   HOUSE  PARK 

distinguished  Massachusetts  men.  •  The  gilded  eagle  above  the  Presi- 
dent's chair,  with  the  national  and  State  flags,  holds  in  its  beak  a  large 
scroll  inscribed,  "  God  Save  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts."  In 
the  Senate  Reception  Room  are  numerous  interesting  relics.  Among 
them  are  the  first  king's  arms  captured  from  the  British,  at  Lexington, 
on  the  19th  of  April,  1775,  and  the  fowling  piece  used  that  morning  by 
Captain  John  Parker,  the  commander  of  the  minutemen  there,  —  both 
gifts  to  the  State  from  his  distinguished  grandson,  Theodore  Parker, 
the  preacher  and  reformer.  There  are  also  a  Hessian  hat,  sword,  gun, 
and  drum  captured  at  the  battle  of  Bennington,  August  16,  1777,  which 
were  presented  to  the  State  by  Brigadier  General  John  Stark.  On  the 
walls  are  portraits  of  twenty-two  governors,  including  an  original  portrait 
of  John  Winthrop. 

The  State  House  Park,  on  the  east  side  of  the  long  building,  is  a  spread- 
ing lawn  fringed  with  young  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers,  space  for  which 
was  obtained  by  discontinuing  two  or  three  fine  old  streets  and  remov- 
ing the  well-favored  dwellings  that  faced  upon  them.  Beneath  a  con- 
siderable part  of  it  are  great  coal  bunkers  for  the  large  supply  of  coal 
required  for  the  State  House.  The  reproduced  Bulfinch  Monument  in 
stone  occupies  as  near  as  may  be  the  position  of  the  original  one.  It 
is  an  exact  copy  of  that  in  dimensions,  and  the  eagle  at  its  top  follows 
the  original  drawing  of  Bulfinch's  bird.  The  inscription  on  the  bronze 
tablet  in  the  base  gives  this  concise  chapter  of  history :  In  1634  the 
General  Court  caused  a  Beacon  to  be  placed  on  the  top  of  this  hill.  In 
I'jgo  a  brick  and  stone  monument  designed  by  Charles  Bulfinch  replaced 
the  Beaco?i,  but  was  removed  in  1811  when  the  hill  was  cut  down.  It  is 
now  reproduced  in  stone  by  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument  Association.  i8<p8. 
The  old  tablets  of  the  Bulfinch  monument  are  set  higher  in  the  base. 

The  statue  in  the  lawn  near  by  is  that  of  Major  General  Charles 
Devens  (United  States  Marshal,  United  States  Attorney-General,  and 
Justice  of  the  Supreme  Judicial  Court  of  Massachusetts).  It  is  by 
Olin  L.  Warner,  and  was  erected  by  the  State  in  1898.  The  equestrian 
statue  on  the  Beacon  Street  side  of  the  park,  set  in  the  broad  walk, 
is  of  Major  General  Joseph  Hooker,  the  figure  by  Daniel  C.  French, 
the  horse  by  Edward  C.  Potter.     This  was  erected  in  1903. 

We  reenter  Beacon  Street  by  the  arched  way  from  this  walk,  opposite 
the  head  of  Park  Street.  Down  Park  Street  we  see,  facing  the  Common, 
a  line  of  buildings,  mostly  dwellings  reconstructed  for  business  purposes, 
several  of  which  are  interesting  landmarks.  The  upper  one  at  the 
Beacon  Street  comer  was,  in  part  (that  part  fronting  on  Park  Street,  a 
portion  of  the  old  iron-railed  entrance  steps  remaining),  the  home  of 
George  Ticknor,  the  historian  ("  History  of  Spanish  Literature  ").    The 


BEACON   STREET 


45 


larger  building  below  is  the  house  of  the  Union  Club,  established  (1863) 
during  the  Civil  War,  primarily  as  a  political  club  in  support  of  the 
Union  cause.  Edward  Everett  was  its  first  president.  It  occupies 
in  part  the  residence  of  Abbott  Lawrence,  a  foremost  Boston  mer- 
chant in  his  time.  Farther  down,  at  No.  4,  is  the  publishing  house 
of  Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.,  occupying  the  old  Quincy  mansion  house, 
the  winter  home  of  the  elder  Josiah  Quincy  (whose  statue  we  shall 
presently  see)  through  the  last  seven  years  of  his  long,  eventful,  and 
useful  life  of  nearly  ninety-two  years.  Near  the  end  of  the  short  line, 
No.  2  was  the  last  Boston 
home  of  the  historian  Motley, 
just  prior  to  his  appointment 
as  United  States  minister  to 
England  in  1869. 

Now  turning  our  steps 
down  Beacon  Street  east- 
ward, we  pass  in  close 
neighborhood  the  Unitarian 
Building,  at  the  corner  of 
Bowdoin  Street;  directly 
opposite,  the  Congregational 
House  ;  and  next  to  this  the 
Boston  Athenaeum. 

The  Unitarian  Building,  a  low,  Moorish-like  structure  of  brownstone 
(built  1 885-1 886),  is  the  headquarters  of  the  American  Unitarian  Asso- 
ciation, and  the  general  denominational  house,  where  are  the  offices  of 
various  organizations,  national,  state,  and  local.  Channing  Hall  here, 
and  neighboring  rooms,  are  embellished  with  portraits  and  busts  of 
Unitarian  leaders.  The  Congregational  House,  a  building  of  stone  and 
brick,  ornamented  with  sculptured  tablets  (built  1897-1898),  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Congregational  Trinitarian  denomination.  The  emblem- 
atic sculptures  on  the  facade  represent  respectively,  from  east  to 
west :  Law,  depicting  the  Signing  of  the  Compact  in  the  cabin  of  the 
Mayflower,  November  21,  1620;  Religion,  the  observance  of  Sunday 
on  Clark's  Island  on  the  day  before  the  landing  at  Plymouth;  Educa- 
tion, the  act  of  the  General  Court  of  Massachusetts  passed  October  28, 
1636,  appropriating  money  for  a  "  schoole  or  colledge"  ;  and  Philan- 
thropy, the  preaching  of  the  apostle  Eliot  to  the  Indians  at  Waban's 
wigwam  on  old  Nonantum  Hill,  Newton,  October,  1646.  In  this 
building  are  established  the  Congregational  Library  and  the  Missionary 
Library  of  the  American  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Missions, 
with  the  remarkable  Pratt  Collection,  in  the  Bible  Room,  embracing 


From  an  Old  Print  of  Boston  Common 


46 


BOSTON  ATHEN^UM 


Hebrew  rolls,  various  editions  of  the  Scriptures,  palm  books,  biblical 
and  other  charts,  relics,  and  antiquities.  The  head  offices  of  the 
American  Board  are  here.  Pilgrim  Hall  is  in  the  rear  from  the  main 
entrance. 

The  Boston  Athenaeum,  presenting  a  classic  front  of  brown  freestone, 
in  marked  contrast  with  its  lofty  neighbors,  dates  from  1849.  The 
literary  institution  for  which  it  was  erected  dates  back  to  1807.  This 
had  its  origin  in  the  Monthly  Anthology,  a  magazine  first  published 
in  1803,  of  which  the  Rev.  William  Emerson, 
father  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  was  the  prin- 
cipal editor.  The  persons  who  became  interested 
in  that  "journal  of  polite  literature"  —  a  remark- 
able set  of  cultivated  young  men  —  formed  the 
"Anthology  Club,"  and  collected  a  library,  which 
Was  incorporated  in  1807  as  the  Boston  Athe- 
naeum. Quarters  were  first  found  in  Congress 
Street,  then  in  a  Pearl  Street  mansion  house 
presented  to  the  institution  (1821),  and  later  this 
building  was  built  by  the  corporation.  For  many 
years  the  Athenaeum  had  in  connection  with  its 
library  a  valuable  art  gallery,  but  the  best  paint- 
ings of  its  collection  have  been  transferred  to 
the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  Back  Bay.  It  now 
possesses  over  200,000  volumes,  many  of  them 
rare;  a  large  collection  of  Braun  photographs 
and  art  works ;  files  of  early  newspapers ;  the 
Bemis  collection  of  works  on  international  law, 
including  state  papers,  etc.,  for  the  increase  of 
which  there  is  a  substantial  fund ;  one  of  the  very  best  sets  of  United 
States  documents  in  the  country ;  the  best  collection  in  existence  of 
books  published  in  the  South  during  the  Civil  War;  and  a  large  part 
of  George  Washington's  private  library,  with  many  works  relating  to 
the  first  President.  The  Stuart  portrait  of  Washington  now  at  the 
Art  Museum  is  owned  by  the  Athenaeum. 


The  Athenaeum  became  early  a  center  of  the  new  literary  and  artistic  life  which 
was  to  make  Boston  famous  in  Emerson's  time.  From  it  came,  more  or  less 
directly,  the  old  and  scholarly  North  American  Review  ;  and  most  of  the  literary 
societies  and  libraries  of  to-day  in  Boston  owe  their  origin  entirely  or  in  part  to 
the  influence  of  the  Athenaeum  and  its  founders.  The  institution  is  managed  by 
trustees  elected  by  its  1049  shareholders,  known  as  "  proprietors."  The  income 
is  derived  from  invested  funds  and  from  an  annual  assessment  upon  each  share 
in  use.     Some  famous  men  of  New  England  have  been  among  the  proprietors  of 


BOSTON   UNIVERSITY  47 

the  Athenaeum,  including  Daniel  Webster,  Charles  Sumner,  Holmes,  Parkman, 
and  Prescott.  William  F.  Poole,  who  originated  Poole's  Index,  was  at  one  time 
its  librarian.  Arthur  Theodore  Lyman  is  the  present  president,  and  Charles 
Knowles  Bolton  is  the  librarian. 

The  old-fashioned  "  swell  fronts  "  above  the  bend  of  Beacon  Street, 
at  the  upper  corner  of  Somerset  Street,  are  the  quarters  of  the  Boston 
City  Club,  a  large  social  and  business  organization  of  citizens  "interested 
in  the  city  of  Boston  and  the  problems  of  its  growth." 

In  Somerset  Street,  a  few  steps  from  the  corner,  is  old  Jacob  Sleeper 
Hall,  general  building  of  Boston  University  (chartered  1869,  for  both 
sexes)  till  the  removal  of  the  academic  department  to  new  Jacob 
Sleeper  Hall  (dedicated  March,  1908),  in  Boylston  Street,  Back  Bay  (see 
p.  81).  Near  by,  on  Ashburton  Place,  opening  from  Somerset  Street, 
is  the  School  of  Law.  Within  a  ten-minute  wTalk  is  the  School  of 
Theology,  at  72  Mt.  Vernon  Street,  West  End.  The  other  depart- 
ment of  the  university,  the  School  of  Medicine,  is  at  the  South  End, 
on  East  Concord  Street,  adjacent  to  the  Massachusetts  Homeopathic 
Hospital.  Beyond  the  School  of  Law  the  upper  end  of  Ashburton 
Place  is  imposingly  finished  by  the  Ford  Building,  erected  for  Baptist 
headquarters.  Farther  down  Somerset  Street,  at  No.  18,  is  the  house 
of  the  New  England  Historic  Genealogical  Society  (founded  1844,  in- 
corporated 1845).  Here  is  a  valuable  library  of  more  than  50,000 
volumes  and  over  100,000  pamphlets,  comprising  the  best  known  col- 
lection of  genealogical  works,  biographies,  and  histories,  American  and 
English.  From  fifty  to  two  hundred  visitors,  students  in  genealogy 
and  compilers,  make  daily  use  of  this  extensive  collection.  The 
society  also  possesses  numerous  rare  manuscripts  and  historical  relics. 
It  publishes  the  "  New  England  Historical  and  Genealogical  Register  " 
(established  1847). 

John  Ward  Dean  was  for  a  long  period  the  librarian  of  this  society.  The 
present  president  is  the  Hon.  James  Phinney  Baxter,  of  Portland,  Maine ;  the 
present  secretary,  George  A.  Gordon;  the  librarian,  William  P.  Greenlaw;  and 
the  editor  of  publications,  Henry  E.  Woods. 

On  Beacon  Street  again,  the  modern  office  building  occupying  the 
corner  of  Tremont  Place  covers  the  site  of  a  row  of  pleasant  houses 
which  slowTly  changed  from  dwellings  to  business  places.  The  corner 
one  was  the  sometime  home  of  Nathan  Hale,  where  Edward  Everett 
Hale  passed  his  boyhood  when  he  was  attending  the  Latin  School. 
The  end  one  in  the  rowT  was  latterly  the  publishing  house  of  Ginn 
<S°  Company,  from  which  they  removed  to  the  Hancock-house  site, 
29  Beacon  Street. 


48 


FIRST   SCHOOLHOUSE 


Crossing  crowded  Tremont  Street  we  enter  more  crowded  School 
Street,  one  of  the  most  traveled  and  one  of  the  shortest  thoroughfares 
in  the  city.  Just  below  King's  Chapel  we  are  at  the  site  of  the  first 
schoolhouse  of  the  first  public  school,  which  is  continued  in  the  present 
Public  Latin  School,  now  at  the  South  End  (Warren  Avenue,  Dartmouth 
and  Montgomery  streets).  A  bronze  tablet  set  on  the  first  stone  post 
of  the  fence  in  front  of  the  City  Hall  is  inscribed  with  its  story:  On 
this  spot  stood  the  First  House  erected  for  the  use  of  the  Boston  Public  Latin 
School.  This  school  has  been  constantly  maintained  since  it  was  estab- 
lished by  the  following  vote  of 
the  town  :  At  a  meeting  upon 
public  notice  it  was  generally 
agreed  that  our  brother  Phile- 
mon Pormont  shall  be  en- 
treated to  become  schoolmaster 
for  the  teaching  and  nurtur- 
ing of  children  with  us.  April 

*3>  l63S- 

This  schoolhouse  stood 
where  the  chancel  and  pulpit 
of  King's  Chapel  are  now.  It 
gave  the  street  its  name. 

It  was  built  in  1645  (previous 
to  which  the  school  was  held  in 
the  master's  house),  and  remained 
on  this  spot  for  upward  of  a  cen- 
tury. Then  in  1 748  another  build- 
ing was  erected  on  the  opposite 
side  where  is  now  the  Parker 
House.  The  present  is  the  fifth 
building  of  the  school.  In  the  long  roll  of  Latin  School  pupils  appear  the  names 
of  Franklin,  Hancock,  Samuel  Adams,  and  Robert  Treat  Paine ;  Cotton  Mather, 
Henry  Ward  Beecher,  James  Freeman  Clarke,  Edward  Everett  Hale,  and  Phillips 
Brooks ;  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  John  Lothrop  Motley,  and  Francis  Parkman ; 
Presidents  Leverett,  Langdon,  Everett,  and  Eliot  of  Harvard  University;  Charles 
Francis  Adams,  Sr.,  Charles  Sumner,  and  William  M.  Evarts. 


Boston  City  Hall 


The  heavy  granite  City  Hall  (built  1862- 1865),  of  elaborate  design, 
calls  only  for  a  passing  glance.  It  succeeded  a  Bulfinch  building  on 
the  same  site,  —  a  Court  House  (predecessor  of  the  present  "Old  Court 
House  "),  refitted  for  a  City  Hall.  The  bronze  statues  in  the  yard  are 
more  interesting.  That  of  Benjamin  Franklin  was  the  first  portrait 
statue  set  up  in  Boston  (1856).     It  is  the  work  of  Richard  Greenough. 


CITY   HALL 


49 


The  fund  for  its  erection  was  raised  by  popular  subscription.  The  four 
bronze  medallions  in  the  sunken  panels  of  the  pedestal  represent  as 
many  periods  in  Franklin's  career. 

The  other  statue,  of  Josiah  Quincy,  is  by  Thomas  Ball,  and  was 
placed  in  1879.  I*  represents  the  elder  Quincy  as  he  appeared  in  mid- 
dle life  when  mayor  of  Boston.  The  base  is  a  block  of  Quincy  granite. 
A  marble  statue  by  William 
W.  Story,  in  Memorial  Hall 
at  Cambridge,  represents 
Quincy  in  later  life,  or  when 
president  of  the  college. 

We  may  stop  a  moment  at 
the  building  next  beyond  the 
foot  passage  by  the  side  of 
the  City  Hall  (another  court 
dignified  with  the  term  of 
avenue),  and  observe  the  in- 
scribedjire-back  set  in  its  vesti- 
bule wall.  The  inscription 
relates  that  on  this  site  from 
1785  to  181 5  was  the  dwelling 
of  Dr.  John  Warren  (brother 
of  Joseph  Warren,  killed  at 
Bunker  Hill),  who  was  the 
first  professor  of  anatomy 
and  surgery  in  Harvard  Uni- 
versity. The  fire-back  came 
from  the  old  house. 

At  the  end  of  School  Street  the  ancient  building  long  known  as  the 
"Old  Corner  Bookstore"  lingers  a  weathered  old  relic  of  the  past  in 
one  of  the  busiest  quarters,  although  the  booksellers  finally  left  it  in 
1903.  It  dates  from  1712.  It  had  been  a  book  stand  since  1828.  Its 
interest  lies  particularly  in  its  literary  associations,  for  in  what  is  regarded 
now  as  the  golden  age  of  Boston  literary  activity  —  about  the  middle 
and  third  quarter  of  the  nineteenth  century  —  it  was  the  chief  literary 
lounge  and  calling  place  of  the  city.  This  was  especially  the  character- 
istic of  the  "Old  Corner"  during  the  long  years  of  its  occupancy  by- 
Ticknor  &  Fields  and  their  immediate  successors. 

The  "Curtained  Corner"  of  James  T.  Fields  in  the  back  part  of  the  old  book- 
shop has  been  much  discoursed  upon.  George  William  Curtis  in  the  "  Easy 
Chair  "  called  it  "  the  exchange  of  wit,  the  Rialto  of  current  good  things,  the  hub 
of  the  hub.     It  was  a  very  remarkable  group  of  men,  —  indeed  it  was  the  first 


Old  Corner  Bookstore 


5° 


OLD   SOUTH   MEETINGHOUSE 


group  of  really  great  American  authors  which  familiarly  frequented  the  corner 
as  guests  of  Fields." 


Previous  to  this  building  there  was  here  the  Hutchinson  Homestead, 
where  lived  that  colonial  dame,  Anne  Hutchinson,  strong  of  mind  and 
keen  of  wit,  one  of  John  Cotton's  old  Boston-in- 
England  parishioners,  who  became  the  central  figure 
in  the  violent  antinomian  controversy  which  tore  the 
Colony  in  163 7- 1638,  and  who  was  finally  banished 
for  heresy.  In  her  little  home  here  she  instituted  the 
weekly  gathering  of  women  to  discuss  the  Sunday 
sermon  after  the  fashion  of  the  men,  and  so  she  is 
credited  with  having  set  up  the  first  woman's  club  in 
America. 

The  Old  South  Building  opposite,  the  monumental 
business  structure  of  stone  and  steel  spreading 
between  Spring  Lane  and  around  the  Old  South 
Meetinghouse  to  Milk  Street,  covers  near  its  south- 
east end  the  site  of  Winthrop's  second  mansion 
(where  he  died),  which  was  afterward  and  until  the 
Revolution  the  parsonage  house  of  the  Old  South, 
and  which  the  British  demolished  together  with  the 
shading  row  of  butternut  trees  before  it,  using  them 
for  firewood  during  the  Siege.  The  tall  walls  of  the 
ornate  building  close  against  the  plain  brick  meet- 
inghouse and  reaching  above  its  tower,  dwarf  the 
historic  structure,  but  add  to  its  uniqueness.  "When 
the  tower  porch  is  arched,  as  is  proposed,  for  the 
sidewalk,  which  has  been  brought  to  the  inner  line 
of  the  widened  street  at  this  point,  its  appearance 
will  further  be  improved. 

The  Old  South  is  now  a  loan  museum  of  Revo- 
lutionary and  other  relics,  Colonial  furniture,  and 
Old  South  Church  portraits,  open  to  the  public  for  a  modest  fee,  which 
goes  to  meet  the  cost  of  its  maintenance.  The 
interior  is  restored  as  far  as  possible  to  the  aspect  which  it  bore  in  the 
prerevolutionary  period,  when  it  was  the  scene  of  those  great  town  meet- 
ings, too  large  for  the  old  Faneuil  Hall,  which  "  kindled  the  flame  that 
fired  the  Revolution,"  and  in  commemoration  of  which  the  meeting- 
house came  to  be  called  the  "  Sanctuary  of  Freedom."  The  tablet 
on  the  tower,  over  which  the  Boston  ivy  spreads,  is  inscribed  with 
these  historic  dates : 


OLD   SOUTH    MEETINGHOUSE"  *    51 

Old  South 

Church  gathered  1669 

First  House  built  1670 

This  House  erected  1729 

Desecrated  by  British  troops  1775-6 

The  preservation  of  the  meetinghouse  is  directly  due  to  the  efforts 
of  an  organization  of  twenty-five  Boston  women,  under  the  title  of  the 
"  Old  South  Preservation  Committee,"  formed  in  the  centennial  year 
of  1876,  at  a  critical  juncture,  when  its  demolition  was  imminent 
through  the  sale  of  the  property  for  mercantile  purposes.  Public 
interest  was  aroused,  "  preservation  meetings  "  were  held  with  lectures, 
addresses,  and  poems  by  Emerson,  Henry  Lee,  Lowell,  Holmes,  and 
others  ;  and  finally  this  organization  succeeded —  Mrs.  Mary  Hemenway 
contributing  $100,000  —  in  purchasing  the  estate  subject  to  certain 
restrictions  for  $430,000.  It  is  now  used  for  the  Old  South  Lectures 
to  Young  People,  instituted  by  Mrs.  Hemenway  to  promote  among 
American  youth  a  "  more  serious  and  intelligent  attention  to  histor- 
ical studies,  especially  studies  in  American  History,"  of  which  Edwin 
D.  Mead  is  the  director. 

The  town  meetings  of  greatest  moment  held  here  were  those  of  June  14  and 
15,  1768,  upon  the  matter  of  the  impressment  of  Massachusetts  men  by  the  com- 
mander of  his  majesty's  ship  of  war  Romney ;  the  long  afternoon  and  early 
evening  meeting  of  March  6,  1770,  the  day  after  the  Boston  Massacre,  which 
brought  about  the  removal  of  the  British  regiments  from  the  town ;  and  the  anti- 
tea  meetings  between  November  27  and  December  16, 1773,  culminating  with  the 
"  Tea  Party  "  and  the  emptying  of  the  cargoes  of  the  tea  ships  into  the  harbor. 
The  series  of  orations  commemorative  of  the  Boston  Massacre  was  delivered 
here,  Dr.  Joseph  Warren,  three  months  before  he  was  killed  at  Bunker  Hill,  pro- 
nouncing the  second  one,  upon  which  occasion  he  was  introduced  through  a  window 
in  the  rear  of  the  pulpit,  the  entrance  doors  and  the  aisles,  and  even  the  pulpit 
steps,  being  occupied  by  British  soldiers  and  officers.  During  the  Siege,  when  the 
meetinghouse  was  used  as  a  riding  school  by  Burgoyne's  regiment  of  light  dra- 
goons, the  floor  was  cleared  for  their  exercises,  and  cart  loads  of  earth  and  gravel 
were  spread  over  it.  The  pulpit,  the  pews,  and  all  the  inside  structures  except 
the  sounding-board  and  the  east  galleries  were  taken  out  and  most  of  them  burned 
for  fuel.  One  "  beautiful  carved  pew,"  with  silken  furnishings,  was  carried  off  to 
a  neighboring  house  and  "  made  a  hog  stye  "  of.  The  east  galleries  were  fitted 
for  spectators,  and  in  one  of  them  was  a  refreshment  bar.  The  south  door  was 
closed  and  a  pole  was  fixed  here  over  which  the  cavalry  were  taught  to  leap  their 
horses  at  full  speed.  In  the  winter  a  stove  was  set  up,  in  which  were  used  for 
kindling  many  of  the  precious  books  and  manuscripts  of  the  Rev.  Thomas 
Prince's  New  England  Library,  then  deposited  in  the  "  steeple-room "  of  the 
tower.  The  manuscript  of  Bradford's  "  History  of  Plimoth  "  (see  p.  43),  and 
that  of  the  third  volume  of  Winthrop's  Journal  among  them,  were  spared.     In 


52  BENJAMIN  FRANKLIN'S   BIRTHPLACE 

this  tower  study  the  Rev.  Jeremy  Belknap,  the  historian  and  the  recognized 
founder  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  did  much  work. 

The  meetinghouse  which  preceded  this,  a  "  little  house  of  cedar,"  was  the  one 
which  Andros  obliged  the  regular  church  organization  to  share  with  the  first 
Episcopal  church  (see  p.  24).  That,  too,  was  the  place  where  Judge  Samuel 
Sewall  in  1697  published  his  "  confession  of  contrition  "  for  his  share  as  a  witch- 
craft judge  in  the  "  blood-guiltiness  "  at  Salem  five  years  before.  It  was  also  the 
meetinghouse  where  Benjamin  Franklin  was  baptized  on  the  day  of  his  birth, 
January  17  (6  O.  S.),  1706. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  Old  South  is  the  newspaper  quarter, 
Newspaper  Row,  extending  below  the  curve  of  Washington  Street, 
northward.  Near  it,  also  on  Washington  Street  and  Bromfield  Street, 
are  popular  bookshops. 

From  the  Old  South  to  the  "  Tea  Party  "  Site.  At  the  Old  South  we 
turn  into  Milk  Street,  but  before  doing  so  we  should  identify  the  site 
of  the  Province  House,  the  official  residence  of  the  royal  governors,  cele- 
brated in  Hawthorne's  "  Legends  of  the  Province  House."  This  build- 
ing stood  nearly  opposite  the  meetinghouse,  well  back  from  Washington 
Street,  above  a  handsome  lawn  ornamented  by  two  noble  oaks  at  the 
street  front.  A  bit  of  its  wall  yet  remains  backing  upon  Province  Court, 
which  is  reached  from  Washington  Street  by  a  foot  passage. 

It  was  a  stately  house  of  brick,  three  stories,  with  gambrel  roof,  and  a  high 
cupola  surmounted  by  a  figure  of  an  Indian  with  drawn  bow  and  arrow,  another 
specimen  of  the  handiwork  of  "  Deacon "  Shem  Drowne,  maker  of  the  grass- 
hopper on  Faneuil  Hall.  The  approach  was  by  a  high  flight  of  stone  steps 
leading  to  a  portico,  over  which  appeared  the  royal  arms  in  deal  and  gilt.  It 
long  outlived  the  Province  period.  After  the  Revolution  it  served  the  Com- 
monwealth a  while  as  the  Government  House,  for  the  sittings  of  the  governor 
and  council,  and  for  state  offices.  Thereafter  it  fell  to  commercial  uses,  and  in 
its  latter  days  it  was  a  hall  of  negro  minstrelsy.  It  finally  passed,  all  but  the  bit 
of  wall,  in  a  fire  in  1864.  It  was  built  originally  for  a  dwelling  by  an  opulent 
merchant,  Peter  Sergeant,  in  1667.  The  Province  bought  it  for  a  governor's 
house  in  1715.  The  Indian  was  preserved  and  is  now  in  the  collection  of  the 
Massachusetts  Historical  Society. 

Province  Street  and  Province  Court  led  to  the  rear  grounds  of  the  Province 
House.  After  the  Revolution  Province  Street  was  for  some  time  called  the 
Governor's  Alley. 

On  Milk  Street  we  pass  the  site  of  Benjamin  Franklin's  Birthplace, 
covered  by  the  building  No.  17,  nearly  opposite  the  side  of  the  Old 
South,  which  bears  on  its  front  the  legend  "  Birthplace  of  Franklin," 
with  a  bust  of  the  philosopher. 

A  little  farther  down,  on  the  left,  is  the  Federal  Building,  including 
the  Post  Office  and  the  Federal  courts,  a  gloomy  pile  of  granite,  chiefly 


FORT   HILL  SQUARE  53 

interesting  for  its  service  in  checking  at  this  point  the  sweep  of  the 
Great  Fire  of  November  9-10,  1872,  the  gravest  of  all  great  Boston 
fires.  In  the  wall  at  the  Milk  and  Devonshire  streets  corner  is  a 
tablet  commemorating  that  disaster,  from  which  the  city  was  quick 
to  recover.  It  states  that  this  fire,  "beginning  at  the  southeasterly 
corner  of  Summer  and  Kingston  Streets,  extended  over  an  area  of  sixty 
acres,  destroyed  within  the  business  center  of  the  city  property  to  the 
value  of  more  than  sixty  million  dollars,  and  was  arrested  in  its  north- 
easterly progress  at  this  point.  The  mutilated  stones  of  this  building 
also  record  that  event." 

Federal  Street,  next  below  Devonshire  Street,  southward,  is  one  of 
the  main  avenues  to  the  South  Station.  It  has  two  historic  sites 
covered  by  business  buildings.  These  are  at  or  about  the  western 
corners  of  Franklin  Street,  the  first  street  crossing  Federal.  One 
(northwest  corner)  is  the  site  of  the  Federal  Street  Theater,  the  first 
regular  playhouse  in  Boston,  designed  by  Bulfinch  and  erected  in 
1794.  The  other  is  that  of  the  Federal  Street  Church,  the  Boston 
pulpit  of  William  Ellery  Channing  from  1803  till  his  death  in  1842. 

We  continue  two  blocks  farther  down  Milk  Street  to  Pearl  Street, 
which  opens  from  the  lower  end  of  Post  Office  Square,  upon  which 
the  Federal  Building  fronts.  Near  the  north  side  of  this  square  is  the 
site  of  the  first  office  of  the  Liberator,  the  dingy  little  attic  room  where, 
in  1 83 1,  William  Lloyd  Garrison  began  his  most  aggressive  antislavery 
editorial  work.  The  building  stood  on  the  northeast  corner  of  Congress 
and  Water  streets  until  it  was  swept  off  in  the  fire  of  1872. 

When  Garrison  was  mobbed  in  1835,  and  was  given  refuge  in  the  Old  State 
House,  then  the  City  Hall,  the  Liberator  office  was  on  Washington  Street  in 
a  building  backing  on  Wilson's  Lane,  now  Devonshire  Street,  where  the  attack 
upon  him  began. 

Turning  into  Pearl  Street  we  follow  it  to  its  end  at  Atlantic  Avenue, 
where  is  the  "  Tea  Party  "  site.  Along  the  way  we  cross  High  Street, 
and  looking  down  this  street  eastward  we  see  in  the  distance  the 
poplar  trees  of  Fort  Hill  Square,  which  marks  the  site  of  Fort  Hill,  one 
of  the  three  original  hills  of  Boston,  which  vvas  leveled  in  1867-1872. 
The  hill  got  its  name  from  the  fort  which  was  erected  on  its  summit  in 
1632,  the  first  fort  on  the  peninsula.  It  was  then  at  the  eastern  extrem- 
ity of  the  town,  directly  opposite  the  harbor.  In  the  second  fort  here, 
built  in  1687,  Andros  took  refuge  at  the  time  of  the  revolution  which 
overthrew  his  government. 

The  "Tea  Party  Wharf"  was  near  the  western  line  of  the  present 
Atlantic  Avenue,  close  by  Pearl  Street.     The  tablet  which  we  see  on 


54  THE   NORTH   END 

the  avenue  front  of  the  building  occupying  the  northern  corner  of 
the  two  streets  marks  the  site  as  nearly  as  possible.  The  inscription, 
beneath  the  model  of  a  tea  ship,  tells  the  story  of  the  party  concisely: 

Here  formerly  stood 
GRIFFIN'S   WHARF 
at  which  lay  moored  on  Dec.  16,  1773,  three 
British  ships  with  cargoes  of  tea.     To  defeat 
King  George's  trivial  but  tyrannical  tax 
of  three  pence  a  pound,  about  ninety 
citizens  of  Boston,  partly  disguised 
as  Indians,  boarded  the  ships, 
threw  the  cargoes,  three  hun- 
dred and  forty-two  chests 
in  all,  into  the  sea, 
and  made  the  world 
ring  with  the  patriotic 
exploit  of  the 
BOSTON    TEA    PARTY. 

"No,  ne'er  was  mingled  such  a  draught 
In  palace,  hall,  or  arbor, 
As  freemen  brewed  and  tyrants  quaffed 
That  night  in  Boston  Harbor." 

At  this  point  we  can  take  a  surface  car  or,  by  walking  to  the  next 
station  northward,  an  elevated  train,  and  ride  to  the  North  End  for  our 
exploration  of  that  quarter.  It  is  better,  however,  to  take  a  south- 
bound car  and  return  by  way  of  Dewey  Square  (passing  the  South 
Station)  and  Summer  Street  to  Washington  Street,  making  our  entry 
into  the  North  End  by  the  customary  route  from  Scollay  Square. 


2.    The  North  End 

The  North  End  (see  Plate  III),  though  now  bereft  of  many  of  the 
landmarks  that  once  gave  it  an  antique  flavor  and  a  peculiar  charm  to 
seekers  of  things  old  and  historic,  is  yet  a  quarter  to  which  the  much- 
worn  term  "unique"  may  justly  be  applied.  There  still  remain  a  few 
landmarks  of  great  interest,  and  "  historic  sites  "  abound  in  this  small 
and  compact  district.  The  first  "court  end"  of  the  town,  where  the 
gentry  had  their  fine  mansions  beside  the  many  quaint  humbler  houses 
of  the  early  Colonial  period,  it  is  now  the  foreign  quarter  of  the  city, 
with  foreign  signs  in  dingy  shops  and  a  swarming  population  of  Rus- 
sians, Armenians,  Israelites,  Norwegians,  Poles,  Italians  saluting  our 
ears  with  a  jargon  of  tongues. 


GREEN   DRAGON   TAVERN 


55 


We  approach  the  North  End  by  way  of  Hanover  Street,  which  runs 
from  Scollay  Square  to  the  Chelsea  Ferry  on  the  water  front. 

At  Union  Street,  the  cross  street  next  below  Washington  Street 
extension,  we  come  to  two  historic  sites  of  first  importance.  One  is 
the  site  of  the  Green  Dragon  Tavern,  the  "headquarters  of  the  Revo- 
lution." This  stood  on  Union  Street,  a  few  steps  off  from  the  left  side 
of  Hanover  Street.  The  spot  is  marked  by  a  business  building  (No.  81, 
left  side),  high  up  on  the  face  of  which  is  a  stone  effigy  of  the  tavern 
sign,  —  a  sheet-copper,  green-painted  repre- 
sentation of  a  creature  of  forked  tongue  and 
curled  tail,  which  couched  upon  an  iron  crane 
projecting  over  the  entrance  door.  The  tavern 
existed  from  1680  or  thereabouts,  through 
Colonial,  Provincial,  and  Republican  days,  till 
the  twenties  of  the  nineteenth  century,  when 
the  lane  which  bore  its  name  was  widened  to 
form  the  present  street. 


It  was  at  the  Green  Dragon  that  the  prerevo- 
lutionary  leaders  held  their  secret  councils  and 
formed  their  plans  of  campaign.  Here  the  Tea 
Party  originated.  It  was  the  rendezvous  of  the 
night  patrol  of  Boston  Mechanics,  instituted  to  keep 
watch  upon  the  British  and  Tory  movements.  It 
was  the  chief  meeting  place  of  the  "  North  End 
Corcus,"  one  of  the  three  clubs  composed  of  patriot 
leaders    and    followers,    which     added    the    word 

"  caucus  "  to  our  political  nomenclature.  It  was  also  the  first  Free  Masons'  hall, 
the  pioneer  St.  Andrews  Lodge  having  been  organized  here  in  1752,  and  in  1769 
the  first  Grand  Lodge  of  the  Province,  with  Dr.  Joseph  Warren  as  Grand  Master 
and  Paul  Revere  a  subordinate  officer. 

The  other  site  is  that  of  Josiah  Franklin's  dwelling  and  chandlery  shop, 
at  "the  sign  of  the  Blue  Ball,"  the  boyhood  home  of  Benjamin  Franklin, 
where  he  worked  for  his  father  at  candle-making  and  tended  the 
shop.  Near  by  was  the  "  salt  marsh  "  by  the  Mill  Pond,  on  the  edge  of 
which  he  fished  for  minnows.  The  "  Blue  Ball "  stood  near  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  junction  of  Union  and  Hanover  streets.  It  held  its 
place  till  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  when  it  was  demolished 
in  the  widening  of  Hanover  Street  at  this  point.  Its  site  is  included  in 
the  street  way. 

A  stone's  throw  up  Union  Street  (eastward)  Marshall's  Lane  (now 
officially  called  street)  opens  from  the  left  side,  —  one  of  the  alleys  or 
"short  cuts"  of  old  Boston,  through  which  we  must  pass.    It  will  bring 


56  "BOSTON   STONE,  1737" 

us  back  to  Hanover  Street  close  to  the  cross  street  next  below  Union 
Street. 

As  we  enter  Marshall's  Lane  from  Union  Street  we  cannot  fail  to 
notice  the  low-browed  brick  building  of  eighteenth-century  fashion 
which  occupies  the  upper  corner  of  the  lane  and  street.  This  is  inter- 
esting as  the  place  where  Benjamin  Thompson  of  Woburn,  who  became 
Sir  Benjamin  Thompson  and  then  Count  Rumford,  was  a  clerk  or 
apprentice  in  his  youth  in  Hopestill  Capen's  shop,  selling  imported 
stuffs  to  the  fashionable  folk  of  the  provincial  town.  At  the  outbreak 
of  the  Revolution  the  Massachusetts  Spy,  afterward  of  Worcester,  was 
printed  on  the  upper  floor  of  this  building. 

Soon  our  lane  makes  a  junction  with  another,  —  Creek  Lane,  which 
originally  led  to  the  Mill  Creek,  where  is  now  Blackstone  Street,  as 
Marshall's  Lane  first  led  to  the  Mill  Bridge  across  the  creek.  Here  we 
see  set  against  the  base  of  a  building  a  rough  piece  of  stone  with  a 
spherical  one  on  top  of  it  marked  "Boston  Stone,  1737."  This  is  only 
the  relic  of  a  paint  mill  which  a  painter  brought  out  from  England 
about  1700  and  used  in  his  shop  close  by.  Perhaps  he  was  Tom  Child 
by  name,  to  whom  Sewall  alludes  in  his  diary:  "Nov.  10,  1706.  This 
morning  Tom  Child  the  Painter  died."  The  monument  was  set  up 
here  some  time  after  the  painter's  day,  in  imitation  of  the  London  Stone, 
to  serve  as  a  direction  for  shops  in  the  neighborhood.  A  similar  guide 
post,  called  the  Union  Stone,  stood  for  some  years  at  the  entrance  of 
the  lane  by  Hopestill  Capen's  shop.  In  the  front  of  the  building  at 
the  outlet  of  the  lane,  on  Hanover  Street,  is  a  carved  reproduction  of 
the  London  Painters'  Guild,  which  is  said  to  have  been  the  sign  of  the 
painter  who  used  the  "  Boston  Stone." 

Opposite  this  monument  we  see,  in  the  worn  old  structure  on  the 
corner  of  Creek  Lane,  the  office  of  Ebenezer  Hancock  (brother  of  John 
Hancock),  deputy  paymaster  general  of  the  Continental  army,  where 
were  deposited  the  funds  in  French  crowns  brought  out  by  d'Estaing 
from  America's  ally,  the  king  of  France,  which  went  to  pay  the  arrears 
of  the  officers  of  the  Continental  line.  The  block  beyond,  facing  Creek 
Lane,  is  "Hancock  Row,"  built  for  stores  by  John  Hancock  after  the 
peace. 

Again  on  Hanover  Street,  we  cross  to  the  other  side  and  enter  Salem 
Street,  which  starts  off  obliquely  from  Hanover  Street  and  then  runs 
parallel  with  it.  Now  we  are  fairly  within  the  North  End.  It  is  a  curious 
street,  with  strange  denizens.  In  early  Colony  days  it  was  fair  Green 
Lane,  upon  which  it  was  the  dream  of  prospering  Bostonians  to  live. 
At  the  corner  of  Stillman  Street  is  the  site  of  the  first  Baptist  meeting- 
house, erected  in  1679,  on  the  border  of  the  open  Mill  Pond  then  on  this 


IN  AND  ABOUT  NORTH  SQUARE  57 

side..  This  was  the  meetinghouse  which  was  closed  against  the  pro- 
scribed sect  and  its  doors  nailed  up  in  1680  by  order  of  the  court; 
when  the  undaunted  society  held  their  services  in  the  meetinghouse 
yard.  Its  descendant  is  the  present  First  Baptist  Church  on  Common- 
wealth Avenue,  Back  Bay.  Prince  Street,  intersecting  Salem  Street  mid- 
way, preserves  more  of  the  old-time  aspect  than  other  streets  of  the 
quarter.  This  street  (first  in  part  Black  Horse  Lane)  was  the  direct 
way  from  the  North  End  to  the  Charlestown  ferry  (where  is  now  the 
Charlestown  Bridge),  and  after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  numbers  of 
the  wounded  British  were  brought  here  to  houses  which  were  turned 
into  temporary  hospitals.  The  most  important  of  these  emergency  hos- 
pitals was  a  fine  new  house  near  the  lower  end  of  Prince  Street  at  the 
corner  of  Lafayette  Street.  This  remained  until  the  end  of  the  nine- 
teenth century,  being  occupied  for  some  years  by  a  grandson  of  one  of 
the  Boston  Tea  Party.  Another  on  Prince  Street,  nearer  Salem  Street, 
is  the  so-called  Stoddard  house,  a  narrow  brick  dwelling,  still  standing 
(No.  130).  It  is  said  that  Major  Pitcairn  was  brought  to  this  house 
and  died  here  from  his  wounds.  On  the  westerly  comer  of  Prince  and 
Margaret  streets  is  the  house  where  long  lived  John  Tileston,  the  school 
master,  the  rigid  but  beloved  master  for  two  thirds  of  a  century  of  the 
oldest  North  End  school,  which  became  the  Eliot  School. 

In  and  about  North  Square.  Taking  Prince  Street  at  the  right  we 
cross  Hanover  Street  and  enter  North  Square.  This  squalid  trian- 
gular inclosure  was  the  central  point  of  the  North  End  in  its  "  elegant  " 
days,  when  it  was  adorned  with  trees  and  dignified  by  neighboring 
mansions.  It  is  now  the  heart  of  the  Italian  colony.  At  its  outlet 
upon  North  Street  is  the  one  landmark  here  of  historic  value.  This  is 
the  little  low  house  of  wood,  hedged  in  by  ambitious  modern  structures, 
marked  as  the  home  of  Paul  Revere.  It  was  the  versatile  patriot's 
dwelling  from  about  1770  through  the  Revolution  and  until  1800,  when, 
having  prospered  in  his  foundry,  he  bought  a  finer  house  on  Charter 
Street  near  by  and  there  spent  the  remainder  of  his  days.  This  North 
Square  house  was  old  when  Revere  moved  into  it  from  his  earlier  home 
on  North  Street  (then  Fish  Street).  It  was  built  soon  after  the  great 
fire  of  1676  in  place  of  Increase  Mather's  house,  the  parsonage  of  the 
North  Church,  which  went  down  with  the  meetinghouse  in  that 
disaster. 

It  was  in  the  upper  windows  of  this  North  Square  house  that  on  the  evening 
of  the  Boston  Massacre  Revere  displayed  those  awful  illustrated  pictures 
which,'  we  read,  struck  the  assembly  of  spectators  "  with  solemn  silence,"  while 
"  their  countenances  were  covered  with  a  melancholy  gloom."  And  well  might 
they  have  shuddered.     In  the  middle  window  appeared  a  realistic  view  of  the 


58  OLD  NORTH   CHURCH 

"  massacre."  In  the  north  window  was  shown  the  "  Genius  of  Liberty,"  a  sitting 
figure  holding  aloft  a  liberty  cap  and  trampling  under  foot  a  soldier  hugging  a 
serpent,  the  emblem  of  military  tyranny.  In  the  south  window  was  an  obelisk 
displaying  the  names  of  the  five  victims,  in  front  of  which  was  a  bust  of  the  boy 
Snider,  killed  a  few  days  before  the  "  massacre  "  in  a  struggle  before  a  Tory  shop 
which  had  been  "  marked  "  as  one  not  to  be  patronized ;  and  behind  the  bust  a 
shadowy,  gory  figure,  with  these  lines  beneath : 

Snider's  pale  ghost  fresh  bleeding  stands 
And  Vengeance  for  his  death  demands. 

Just  below  this  house,  at  about  the  corner  of  North  and  Richmond 
streets,  stood  the  Red  Lion  Inn  of  early  Colony -days,  kept  by  Nicholas 
Upsall,  befriender  of  -the-proscribed  Quakers,  —  the  "  Upsall  gray  with 
his  length  of  days  "  of  the  "  King's  Missive,"  —  who  suffered  banish- 
ment and  imprisonment  for  his  friendly  acts.  On  Richmond  Street 
was  the  birthplace  of  Charlotte  Cushman  (born  1816),  whose  name  is 
perpetuated  in  the  Cushman  School  near  by. 

At  the  head  of  the  square,  on  the  north  side,  is  the  site  of  the  Old 
North  Church,  which  the  British  pulled  down  and  used  for  firewood 
during  the  Siege.  It  stood  between  Garden  Court  and  Moon  streets. 
It  was  the  second  meetinghouse  of  the  Second  Church  in  Boston 
(instituted  in  1649),  built  upon  the  ruins  of  the  first  one,  burned  in  the 
fire  of  1676.  It  became  popularly  known  as  the  Church  of  the  Mathers, 
from  Increase,  Cotton,  son  of  Increase,  and  Samuel,  son  of  Cotton 
Mather,  successively  its  ministers.  In  the  prerevolutionary  period  John 
Lathrop,  a  stanch  patriot,  was  its  minister,  and  it  was  the  church  which 
Revere  attended. 

After  the  Revolution  the  lot  upon  which  it  had  stood  was  set  apart  for  the 
dwelling  of  Mr.  Lathrop  (who  continued  the  minister  till  his  death  in  1816), 
and  the  society  acquired  the  "  New  Brick  Church  "  in  the  near  neighborhood 
on  Hanover  Street,  the  successor  of  which  was  the  Cockerel  Church,  so  called 
from  a  copper  weathercock  which  crowned  its  steeple — still  another  piece  of 
"Deacon"  Shem  Drowne's  clever  work — and  is  now  still  doing  service  on  the 
steeple  of  the  Shepard  Memorial  Church  in  Cambridge.  Mr.  Lathrop's  house 
on  the  old  church  lot  was  large  and  comfortable  in  appearance,  with  a  row  of 
poplars  in  the  front  yard,  and  on  the  Moon  Street  corner  a  weeping  willow. 
These  were  all  blown  down  in  the  destructive  September  gale  of  18 15. 

The  descendant  of  the  Old  North  is  the  ivy-clad  Second  Church  on 
Copley  Square.  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  was  a  minister  of  the  Second 
Church  from  1829  to  1832. 

In  Garden  Court  Street  stood  the  stately  mansion  of  Governor  Thomas 
Hutchinson  (his  birthplace),  which  was  sacked  and  partly  destroyed 
with  much  of  its  contents  by  the  anti-Stamp- Act  mob  on  the  night  of 


CHRIST  CHURCH  AND   COPP'S   HILL  59 

August  26,  1765.  It  was  a  house  of  generous  proportions,  built  of 
brick,  painted  "  stone  color,"  and  set  in  ample  grounds,  the  garden 
extending  on  one  side  to  Fleet  Street  and  back  to  Hanover  Street. 
The  interior  was  rich  in  finish  and  adornments.  It  is  well  pictured, 
although  with  fanciful  touches,  in  Lydia  Maria  Child's  early  his- 
torical romance,  "The  Rebels,  A  Tale  of  the  Revolution,"  published 
in  1852.  It  was  here  that  Hutchinson  wrote  his  "  History  of 
Massachusetts." 

The  first  volume  was  published  in  1764.  When  the  house  was  pillaged  the 
second  volume  lay  in  the  rich  library  in  manuscript  almost  ready  for  the  press. 
It  was  thrown  out  with  other  precious  books  and  papers,  and  "  left  lying  in  the 
street  for  several  hours  in  a  soaking  rain."  But  most  fortunately  all  but  a  few 
sheets  were  carefully  collected  and  saved  by  the  Rev.  Andrew  Eliot,  minister  of 
the  "New  North"  Church,  living  near  by  on  Hanover  Street,  and  the  author 
was  enabled  to  transcribe  the  whole  and  publish  it  two  years  later. 

Hutchinson  and  his  family  made  their  hurried  escape  from  the  house  just 
before  the  mob  reached  it,  finding  refuge  in  neighboring  dwellings.  Hutchinson 
was  first  harbored  in  Samuel  Mather's  house  on  Moon  Street,  but  was  obliged  to 
seek  another  refuge  to  avoid  the  threatening  mob. 

Also  occupying  Garden  Court  Street  with  the  Hutchinson  house,  and 
of  similar  elegance,  was  the  Clark-Frankland  mansion,  so  called  from 
William  Clark,  a  rich  merchant  who  built  it,  and  Sir  Harry  Frankland, 
who  afterward  lived  in  it.  J.  Fenimore  Cooper  pictured  this  house  in 
"  Lionel  Lincoln,"  in  his  description  of  the  residence  of  "  Mrs.  Lech- 
mere,"  which  he  placed  on  Tremont  Street ;  and  Edwin  L.  Bynner  por- 
trayed it  in  his  novel  of  "Agnes  Surriage."  Both  of  these  mansions 
lingered  in  picturesque  decay  till  the  thirties  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
when  the  Bell  Alley  entrance  to  the  square  was  widened  into  Prince 
Street. 

During  the  Siege  North  Square  was  a  military  rendezvous  with  bar- 
racks for  the  soldiers,  their  officers  occupying  the  comfortable  dwellings 
about  it.  The  building  on  the  east  side  by  Moon  Street,  now  an  Italian 
church,  was  originally  "Father  Taylor's  Bethel"  a  sailors'  church,  built 
in  the  early  part  of  the  nineteenth  century,  long  conducted  by  the  Rev. 
Edward  T.  Taylor,  one  of  nature's  orators  and  a  born  minister  to 
seafaring  men. 

Christ  Church  and  Copp's  Hill.  Now  we  return  to  Salem  Street,  cross- 
ing Hanover  Street  and  passing  through  North  Bennet  or  Tileston  Street, 
either  of  which  will  bring  us  close  to  Christ  Church  and  Copp's  Hill, 
the  predominating  historic  features  of  the  North  End  to-day.  As  we 
cross  Hanover  Street  we  should  give  a  glance  at  a  little  low  house 
crowded  back  from  the  street  line  (a  second  story  and  roof  above  a 


6o 


CHRIST  CHURCH 


projecting  store)  on  the  west  side,  just  below  North  Bennet  Street. 
This  is  a  remnant  of  the  house  built  in  1677  by  Increase  Mather  after 
the  fire  in  North  Square.  It  was  Dr.  Mather's  home  till  his  death  in 
1723.  Afterward  it  was  long  occupied  by  the  Rev.  Andrew  Eliot  and 
his  son,  John  Eliot,  ministers  successively  of  the 
New  North  Church.  From  these  ministerial  occu- 
pants it  is  called  the  Mather-Eliot  house.  On  North 
Bennet  Street  was  the  first  grammar  school  in  the  north 
part  of  the  town,  established  in  17 13,  and  on  Tileston 
Street  (named  for  the  old  schoolmaster)  was  the  first 
writing  school  in  the  North  End,  begun  in  1718.  This 
street  was  at  that  time  Love  Lane,  so  called  not  from 
any  sentimental  characteristic  that  it  possessed,  but 
from  a  family  by  the  name  of  Love  who  owned  prop- 
erty about  it. 

Christ  Church  is  the  oldest  church  edifice  now 
standing  in  Boston,  older  by  six  years  than  the  Old 
South,  and  by  thirty  years  than  King's  Chapel.  It 
was  the  second  Episcopal  church  established  in 
Boston.  The  corner  stone  was  laid  in  April,  1723, 
when  the  Rev.  Samuel  Myles,  then  rector  of  King's 
Chapel,  officiated,  accompanied,  says  the  record,  "by 
the  gentlemen  of  his  congregation."  The  ceremony 
closed  with  the  prayer,  "  May  the  gates  of  Hell  never 
prevail  against  it."  It  was  certainly  built  well  to 
withstand  the  assaults  of  time.  The  stone  side  walls 
are  two  and  a  half  feet  thick,  and  the  construction 
throughout  is  substantial.  The  brick  tower  is  of  four 
floors.  The  first  spire  was  described  as  the  "  most 
elegant  in  the  town."  That  was  blown  down  in  a 
gale  in  October,  1805,  but  the  present  one,  erected 
three  years  later,  is  said  to  be  a  faithful  copy  of  it, 
preserving  its  proportions  and  symmetry.  This  tower 
has  additional  interest  in  that  it  was  made  from  a 
model  by  Bulfinch.  The  tower  chimes  of  eight 
bells,  still  the  most  melodious  of  any  in  the  city, 
were  first  hung  in  1744.  Each  bell  has  an  inter- 
esting inscription. 
The  tablet  on  the  tower  front  bears  this  familiar  legend :  The  signal 
lanterns  of  Paul  Revere  displayed  in  the  steeple  of  this  church  April  18, 
J775'  warned  the  country  of  the  fnarch  of  the  British  troops  to  Lexington 
and  Coficord. 


Christ  Church, 
Salem  Street 


CHRIST  CHURCH  61 

This  tablet  was  set  in  1878,  the  statement  it  conveys  being  substan- 
tiated by  several  local  historical  authorities.  Other  recognized  authori- 
ties, chief  among  them  Richard  Frothingham,  the  historian  of  the  Siege 
of  Boston,  place  these  signal  lanterns  on  the  tower  of  the  true  Old 
North  Church  —  the  meetinghouse  in  North  Square  which  the  British 
destroyed.  That  Gage  witnessed  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill  from  this 
tower  is  an  undisputed  statement. 

The  interior  of  the  church  retains  much  of  the  old-time  aspect. 
Among  the  mural  ornaments  is  Houdon's  bust  of  Washington,  the  first 
monumental  effigy  of  Washington  set  up  in  the  country.  It  was  placed 
here  only  ten  years  after  Washington's  death.  The  figures  of  the  cher- 
ubim in  front  of  the  organ  and  the  brass  chandeliers,  destined  originally 
for  a  Canadian  convent,  were  given  to  the  church  in  1758  by  the  master 
of  an  English  privateer,  who  captured  them  from  a  French  ship  on  the 
high  seas.  An  ancient  "  Vinegar  Bible  "  and  the  old  prayer  books  are 
still  in  use.  The  silver  communion  service  includes  several  pieces  bear- 
ing the  royal  arms,  which  were  gifts  from  George  II  in  1733,  at  the 
instance  of  the  royal  Governor  Belcher.  The  clock  below  the  rail  has 
been  in  place  since  1746. 

Beneath  the  tower  are  old  tombs.  In  one  of  them  Major  Pitcairn 
was  temporarily  buried.  Some  years  later,  when  his  monument  was 
erected  in  Westminster  Abbey  and  his  English  relatives  sent  for  his 
remains,  a  box  said  to  contain  them  was  duly  forwarded,  but  the 
grewsome  tale  is  told  that  the  sexton  was  not  sure  of  his  identification. 
The  church  is  open  to  visitors  for  inspection  upon  application  to  the 
sexton  ;  fee,  twenty-five  cents. 

A  block  above,  at  the  comer  of  Salem  and  Sheafe  streets,  is  the  site 
of  the  home  of  Robert  Newman.  He  was  the  sexton  of  Christ  Church 
in  1775  who,  according  to  the  tradition  that  its  steeple  was  the  place 
of  the  Revere  signals,  hung  them  out  at  the  instance  of  John  Puling,  a 
warden  of  the  church,  and  in  Revere's  confidence.  At  the  time  British 
officers  were  quartered  in  this  house  upon  the  Newman  family.  It 
stood  until  1889.  Near  by,  on  Sheafe  Street,  was  the  birthplace  of  the 
Rev.  Samuel  F.  Smith,  author  of  "  America." 

Up  Hull  Street,  opening  directly  opposite  Christ  Church,  a  few  steps 
bring  us  to  the  main  gate  of  Copp's  Hill  Burying  Ground,  —  a  mob  of 
youthful  guides  of  both  sexes  and  various  nationalities  pressing  us  along 
the  way,  rattling  off  with  glib  tongue  the  "  features  "  of  the  region,  and 
offering  to  show  them,  all  and  several,  for  a  nickel.  Hull  Street  per- 
petuates the  name  of  John  Hull,  the  maker  of  the  pine-tree  shillings. 
It  was  originally  cut  through  Hull's  pasture  (in  1701),  and  the  land  for 
it  was  given  by  his  daughter  Hannah  and  Judge  Sewall,  her  husband, 


62  COPP'S   HILL 

on  the  happy  condition  that  it  should  retain  this  name  "forever."  Of 
the  few  old  houses  permitted  to  remain  here,  but  one  need  engage  our 
attention.  This  one  is  on  the  south  side,  distinguished  from  its  neigh- 
bors in  standing  endwise  to  the  street.  It  is  the  Galloupe,  or  Gallop, 
house,  so  called,  dating  from  1722,  which  Gage's  staff  made  their  head- 
quarters during  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  The  Gallops  who  occupied 
it  through  two  generations  were  lineal  descendants  of  Captain  John 
Gallop,  the  earliest  pilot  in  Boston  Harbor,  among  the  "  first  comers  " 
of  1630,  for  whom  Gallop's  Island  in  the  harbor  is  named.  He  also  lived 
in  the  North  End,  "  near  the  shore,  where  his  boat  could  ride  safely  at 
anchor." 

In  the  Copp's  Hill  of  to-day  we  see  only  a  small  remnant  of  the 
original  eminence,  the  northernmost  of  the  three  hills  of  the  penin- 
sula upon  which  Boston  was  planted.  It  now  consists  of  an  embank- 
ment left  after  cuttings  of  the  hill,  protected  on  its  steepest  sides  by  a 
high  stone  wall.  At  the  time  of  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  when  its 
summit  was  occupied  by  the  British  battery  whose  shot,  under  the 
direction  of  Burgoyne  and  Clinton,  set  Charlestown  on  fire,  it  termi- 
nated abruptly  on  the  northwest  side,  opposite  Charlestown,  in  a  high 
cliff. 

This  battery  stood  near  the  southwest  corner  of  the  burying  ground  on  land 
afterward  cut  down.  Perhaps  its  site  was  the  same  as  that  of  the  windmill  of  a 
century  earlier,  brought  over  from  Cambridge  and  set  up  here  in  1653,  to  "grind 
the  settlers'  corn,"  thereby  giving  the  hill  its  first  name  of  "  Windmill  Hill."  It 
got  its  name  of  Copp's  from  William  Copp,  an  industrious  cobbler,  one  of  the 
first  settlers,  who  owned  a  house  and  lot  on  its  southeast  corner  near  Prince 
Street. 

The  burying  ground,  which  now  goes  under  the  general  name  of 
Copp's  Hill,  really  comprises  four  cemeteries  of  different  periods :  the 
North  Burial  Ground  (established  in  1660,  the  same  year  as  the  Granary 
Burying  Ground);  the  Hull  Street  (1707);  the  New  North  (1809);  and 
the  Charter  Street  (1819).  The  oldest  section  is  the  northeasterly  part 
of  the  inclosure.  It  is  the  largest  of  the  historic  burying  grounds  of 
the  city,  and  is  especially  cherished  as  a  picturesque  breathing  place  in 
a  squalid  quarter,  as  wTell  as  for  its  associations. 

Among  the  noted  graves  or  tombs  wThich  we  may  find  here  are  those 
of  the  Revs.  Increase,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather ;  of  Nicholas  Upsall, 
the  persecuted  friend  of  the  Quakers ;  Deacon  Shem  Drowne,  the 
"  cunning  artificer  " ;  the  Rev.  Jesse  Lee,  early  preacher  of  Methodism 
in  Boston,  his  first  church  being  the  Common,  wThere  Whitefield  had 
preached  fifty  years  before ;  the  Rev.  Francis  W.  P.  Greenwood,  rector 
of  King's  Chapel  1824-1843;    and  Edmund  Hartt,  the  builder  of  the 


COPP'S    HILL  63 

frigate  Constitution.  The  tomb  of  the  Mathers  is  near  the  Charter 
Street  gate.  A  large  memorial  stone  with  bullet  marks  on  its  face 
attracts  attention.  It  stands,  as  the  inscription  states,  above  the  "stone 
grave  ten  feet  deep,"  of  "  Capt.  Daniel  Malcom,  mercht,  who  departed 
this  life  October  23d  1769  aged  44  years:  a  true  Son  of  Liberty,  a 
Friend  to  the  Public,  an  Enemy  of  Oppression,  and  One  of  the  foremost 
in  opposing  the  Revenue  Acts  in  America."  This  stone  was  a  favorite 
target  with  the  British  soldiers  quartered  in  the  neighborhood  during 
the  Siege,  and  the  bullet  marks  were  made  by  them.  Another  stone, 
which  stands  toward  the  northwest  angle  of  the  ground,  is  also  curiously 
marked.  This  commemorates  "  Capt  Thomas  Lake,  aged  61  yeeres,  an 
eminently  faithful  servant  of  God  &  one  of  a  public  spirit,"  who  was 
"perfidiovsly  slain  by  ye  Indians  at  Kennibeck,  Avgvst  ye  14th  1676, 
&  here  interred  the  13  of  March  following."  A  deep  slit  is  across  its 
face,  into  which  the  bullets  taken  from  the  captain's  body  were  poured 
after  being  melted.  The  lead  was  long  ago  all  chipped  out  by  vandals. 
Captain  Lake  was  a  commander  of  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artil- 
lery Company  in  1662  and  1674.  Near  the  middle  of  the  ground  is  the 
triple  gravestone  of  George  Worthylake,  first  keeper  of  Boston  Light 
in  the  harbor,  his  wife  and  their  daughter,  all  drowned  while  coming  up 
to  town  in  his  boat  one  day  in  17 18  —  the  mournful  event  that  inspired 
Franklin's  boyhood  ballad  of  "The  Lighthouse  Tragedy"  (see  p.  17). 
A  notable  monument  is  to  Major  Samuel  Shaw,  a  Revolutionary  sol- 
dier, ancestor  of  Robert  Gould  Shaw.  There  are  a  number  of  vaults 
bearing  sculptured  slabs  and  heraldic  devices. 

Here,  as  in  the  other  old  burying  grounds,  acts  of  vandalism  have 
been  committed  in  the  past  in  the  removal  of  several  stones  from  their 
proper  places,  while  sacrilegious  hands  have  changed  the  dates  on  some 
tablets  by  transforming  a  9  into  a  2,  as  in  1620  for  1690,  or  1625  for 
1695.  Others  have  taken  stones  away  and  utilized  them  in  chimneys  or 
drains,  and  two  or  three  tombs  have  been  desecrated  by  the  substitution 
of  other  names  for  the  rightful  ones  upon  them.  The  treatment  of  the 
tomb  of  the  Hutchinsons  with  its  armorial  bearings,  where  were  deposited 
the  remains  of  Elisha  and  Thomas  Hutchinson,  grandfather  and  father, 
respectively,  of  Governor  Hutchinson,  has  been  cited1  as  a  flagrant  case 
of  this  sort.  In  place  of  Hutchinson  has  been  cut  the  name  of  Lewis, 
while  the  honored  dust  of  these  Hutchinsons  is  said  to  have  been 
"scattered  before  the  four  winds  of  heaven."  It  appears,  however, 
from  researches  made  in  1906  by  a  loyal  descendant  of  Thomas  Lewis, 
that  this  tomb  was  duly  sold  to  him  in  1807  by  a  granddaughter  of 
Thomas  Hutchinson,  the  deed  of  record  bearing  the  signature  of 
1  Bridgman's  "  Memorials  of  the  Dead  in  Boston,"  1852. 


64 


COPP'S   HILL  TERRACES 


Hannah  (Mather)  Crocker,  a  daughter  of  Rev.  Samuel  Mather  and  his 
wife,  Thomas  Hutchinson's  daughter.  It  further  appears  that  the 
Hutchinson  bones  lay  in  a  corner  of  the  tomb  till  between  1824  and 
1825,  when  a  grandson  of  Thomas  Lewis  caused  them  to  be  placed  in 
a  suitable  box.     Thomas  Lewis  was  a  deacon  of  the  Second  Church. 

A  corner  of  the  inclosure  by  Snowhill  Street  was  originally  used  for 
the  burial  of  slaves.  Near  the  Charter  Street  gate  is  the  "Napoleon 
willow,"  grown  from  a  slip  from  the  tree  at  Napoleon's  grave. 

Copp's  Hill  Terraces,  back  of  the  burying  ground,  on  Charter  Street, 
extending  down  to  Commercial  Street,  with  the  North  End  Park  and 

Beach  on  the  water 
front  beyond,  finish 
up  rarely  this  fine 
open  space.  The 
terraces  and  the  park 
are  parts  of  the  be- 
neficent Boston  City 
Parks  System. 

With  a  short  stroll 
along  Charter  Street 
back  to  Hanover 
Street  and  across  to 
the  water  front,  our 
survey  of  the  North 
End  finishes.    Charter 

Street  got  its  name  in 
North  Station,  Causeway  Street  _   r  ,       _ 

1708  from  the  Prov- 
ince Charter  of  1692.  Before  that  the  street  was  a  lane,  and  the  lane 
was  associated  with  the  Colony  Charter,  for  it  is  said  that  that  docu- 
ment was  hidden  during  the  troublous  days  of  1681  in  the  house  of 
John  Foster,  which  stood  at  the  corner  of  this  and  Foster  Lane  (now 
Street).  On  the  westerly  corner  of  Charter  and  Salem  streets  Sir 
William  Phips,  the  first  royal  governor,  built  his  brick  mansion  house 
when  he  became  prosperous,  thus  fulfilling  his  dream,  when  a  poor 
ship  carpenter,  of  some  day  living  on  "  the  Green  Lane  of  North  Bos- 
ton." Where  is  now  Revere  Place,  off  Charter  Street  near  Hanover, 
was  Paul  Revere's  last  home.     On  Foster  Street  was  his  foundry. 

Taking  Battery  Street  from  Hanover  Street,  we  pass  to  Atlantic 
Avenue  and  North  Battery  Wharf,  the  site  of  the  North  Battery. 
Constitution  Wharf,  the  next  wharf  north,  marks  the  site  of  Hartt's 
shipbuilding  yard  where  "  Old  Ironsides  "  was  built ;  also  the  frigate 
Boston.     Lewis's  Wharf,  southward,  opposite  the  foot  of  Fleet  Street, 


THE  CHARLESTOWN   DISTRICT  65 

marks  in  part  (its  north  side)  the  site  of  Hancock's  Wharf,  upon  which 
were  Hancock's  warehouses. 

On  Atlantic  Avenue  we  can  take  an  elevated  train  at  the  Battery 
Street  station  (or  surface  cars,  if  we  prefer)  and  return  to  our  starting 
point  at  Scollay  Square. 


3.    The  Charlestown  District 

The  trip  to  Charlestown  naturally  follows  the  exploration  of  the 
North  End.  If  we  start  from  the  latter  quarter,  taking  an  elevated 
train  north  (Battery  Street  station),  we  change  at  the  North  Station 
station  to  a  Sullivan  Square  train.  If,  however,  we  elect  to  go  from 
the  business  quarters,  we  have  a  choice  of  various  trolley  lines  besides 
the  elevated:  some  in  the  Subway  (from  Scollay  Square  station),  others 
on  the  surface,  several  of  the  latter  passing  through  Adams  Square. 
The  Chelsea  cars  pass  by  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  elevated  tracks,  and  surface  tracks  under  them,  pass  over  the 
new  Charlestown  Bridge  (completed  in  1900;  composed  of  steel  and 
stone;  1900  feet  long,  including  the  approaches,  and  100  feet  wide; 
draw  operated  by  electricity;  cost  $1,400,000;  built  by  the  city  of 
Boston).      Trolley  lines  also  cross  the  Warren  Bridge. 

All  the  "features"  of  Charlestown  can  be  included  within  the  com- 
pass of  a  short  walk.  Chief  of  them,  of  course,  is  Bunker  Hill  Monument. 
This  is  only  a  block  from  the  second  station  of  the  elevated  line  in  the 
district,  —  Thompson  Square  (the  first  station  being  City  Square,  at  the 
end  of  Charlestown  Bridge),  —  and  about  a  ten-minute  walk  from  City 
Square.  The  United  States  Navy  Yard  (established  in  1800),  occupying 
"  Moulton's  Point,"  the  spot  where  the  British  troops  landed  for  the 
battle,  is  next  in  popular  interest.  The  main  gate  is  at  the  junction  of 
Wapping  and  Water  streets,  and  Water  Street  opens  from  City  Square. 
The  yard  is  open  daily  to  visitors,  admitted  by  passes  which  are  to  be 
obtained  at  the  main  gate.  It  is  an  inclosure  of  nearly  ninety  acres, 
attractively  laid  out,  and  with  many  interesting  features.  The  marine 
museum  and  naval  library  occupy  the  oldest  building  in  the  grounds 
near  the  entrance  gate.  Another  near-by  point  of  interest  is  Winthrop 
Square  (about  a  five-minute  walk  from  City  Square),  the  early  Colonial 
training  field,  where  are  memorial  tablets  bearing  the  names  of  the 
Americans  who  fell  in  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill ;  also  a  Soldiers'  Monu- 
ment (Civil  War)  by  Martin  Milmore,  sculptor  of  the  soldiers'  monument 
on  Boston  Common.  On  Phipps  Street,  off  Main  Street,  west  side, 
near  Thompson   Square  station  of   the   elevated  line,  is  the  ancient 


66  CHARLESTOWN   DISTRICT 

burying  ground  in  which  is  the  monument  to  John  Harvard,  the  first 
benefactor  of  Harvard  College,  designed  by  Solomon  Willard  and 
erected  by  graduates  of  the  university  in  1828. 

City  Square  and  "Town  Hill,"  which  rises  on  its  west  side  behind 
the  Charlestown  Branch  of  the  Public  Library  (the  City  Hall  when 
Charlestown  was  an  independent  city)  are  the  parts  in  which  the  first 
settlement  was  made  in  1629.  The  "Great  House"  of  the  governor,  in 
which  the  Court  of  Assistants  adopted  the  order  giving  Boston  its  name 
in  1630,  stood  on  the  west  side  of  the  square.  The  dwelling  of  the 
young  minister,  John  Harvard,  stood  near  the  opening  of  Main  Street, 
his  lot  extending  back  over  the  slope  of  "  Town  Hill."  The  "spreading 
oak"  beneath  which  the  first  church,  which  became  the  first  church  of 
Boston,  was  organized  by  "Winthrop  and  his  associates,  was  on  the  east- 
erly slope  of  this  hill.  The  first  " palisadoed"  fort,  set  up  in  1629  and 
lasting  for  more  than  half  a  century,  was  on  its  summit.  The  first  bury- 
ing ground,  where  it  is  supposed  was  the  grave  of  John  Harvard,  all 
traces  of  which  long  ago  disappeared,  was  near  its  foot,  toward  the 
northern  end  of  the  square. 

The  present  church  on  the  hill,  facing  Harvard  Street,  is  the  lineal 
descendant  of  the  first  meetinghouse  of  the  Charlestown  Church,  organ- 
ized in  1632.  An  earlier  church,  on  the  same  spot,  was  from  1789  to 
1 82 1  the  pulpit  of  Rev.  Jedidiah  Morse,  author  of  the  first  geography  of 
the  United  States,  deserving  of  remembrance  more  especially  as  the 
father  of  Samuel  F.  B.  Morse,  the  inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph  and 
noted  in  art.  When  his  distinguished  son  was  born,  Mr.  Morse  was 
living  temporarily  in  the  house  of  a  parishioner,  Thomas  Edes,  the  par- 
sonage near  the  church  being  in  building.  This  house  is  still  standing, 
worn  and  dingy  now,  but  preserved  as  the  birthplace  of  Morse.  We 
may  see  it  on  Main  Street,  above  the  Thompson  Square  station,  marked 
with  a  tablet:  "Here  was  born  Samuel  Finley  Morse,  27  April  1791, 
inventor  of  the  electric  telegraph."  The  room  was  the  front  chamber 
of  the  second  story  on  the  right  of  the  entrance  door.  This  house  was 
the  first  dwelling  erected  after  the  burning  of  the  town  in  the  battle  of 
Bunker  Hill. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument  is  on  Breed's  Hill,  where  the  battle  was  fought. 
Monument  Avenue,  from  Main  Street,  leads  to  the  principal  entrance  of 
the  monument  grounds.  In  the  main  path  we  are  confronted  with  the 
spirited  statue  of  Colonel  William  Prescott  in  bronze,  representing  the 
American  commander  repressing  his  impatient  men,  as  the  enemy 
advances  up  the  hill,  with  the  warning  words :  "  Don't  fire  till  I  tell 
you !  Don't  fire  till  you  see  the  whites  of  their  eyes  !  "  This  statue  is 
by  William  W.  Story,  and  was  erected  by  the  Bunker  Hill  Monument 


BUNKER   HILL  MONUMENT 


67 


Association  in  1881.  It  is  inscribed  simply  with  Prescott's  name 
and  the  date,  "June  17,  1775."  It  stands  on  or  close  to  the  spot 
where  Prescott  stood  at  the  opening  of  the  battle  when  he  gave  the 
signal  to  fire  by  waving  his  sword ;  but  the  statue  faces  in  a  different 
direction. 

The  obelisk  occupies  the  southeast  corner  of  the  American  redoubt, 
and  its  sides  are  parallel  with  those  of  that  structure,  which  was  about 
eight  rods  square.  It  is  built  in  courses  of  granite, 
the  stone  coming  from  a  quarry  in  Quincy,  whence 
it  was  carried  to  the  shipping  point  by  the  first 
railroad  laid  in  the  country.  It  is  thirty  feet  square 
at  the  base  and  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high. 
Inside  the  shaft  is  a  hollow  cone,  around  which 
winds  a  spiral  flight  of  stone  steps,  by  which 
ascent  is  made  to  the  top.  Here  is  an  observ- 
atory, seventeen  feet  high  and  eleven  feet  in 
diameter,  with  windows  on  each  side.  Before 
attempting  the  climb  the  visitor  should  consider 
the  task.  The  steps  number  nearly  three  hundred, 
—  to  be  exact,  two  hundred  and  ninety-five.  There 
is  reward,  however,  for  the  exertion  when  the 
summit  is  reached,  in  the  magnificent  view  which 
it  commands  in  every  direction. 

The  stone  lodge  at  the  base  of  the  obelisk  con- 
tains an  interesting  museum  of  memorials  of  the 
battle  and  a  fine  marble  statue  of  General  Joseph 
Warren  by  Henry  Dexter  (dedicated  June  17, 
1857).  The  spot  where  Warren  fell  is  marked  by 
a  low  stone  in  the  ground. 


stone  was  formally  laid  by  Lafayette,  under  the  direction 
of   the    Massachusetts    Grand    Lodge    of    Masons,  and  Bunker  Hill 

Daniel   Webster    delivered    the    oration.      It    remained  Monument 

unfinished    for    nearly    twenty   years.      Then,    in    1840, 

largely  through  the  efforts  of  American  women,  the  required  funds  for  its 
completion  were  raised.  In  July,  1842,  the  last  stone  was  hoisted  to  its  place, 
one  of  the  workmen  riding  up  on  it  and  waving  an  American  flag.  When  it  was 
finally  laid  in  cement  the  event  was  announced  by  a  national  salute.  The  com- 
pleted structure  was  dedicated  on  the  17th  of  June,  1843,  when  Webster  was 
again  the  orator,  and  President  Tyler  with  members  of  his  cabinet  was  present. 
In  the  great  throng  that  gathered  on  this  occasion  were  a  few  survivors  of  the 
battle.  The  sculptor  Greenough  devised  the  monument,  and  Solomon  Willard 
was  the  architect  who  superintended  its  construction. 


68  WEST  END 

Bunker  Hill  lies  to  the  northward  of  Breed's  Hill,  toward  Charles- 
town  Neck,  where  the  Elevated  line  ends.  Its  summit,  higher  than 
Breed's  Hill,  is  occupied  by  "  Charlestown  Heights,"  overlooking  the 
Mystic  River,  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  the  Boston  City  Parks 
System.  On  Walker  Street,  on  this  hill,  a  short  street  extending  from 
Main  up  to  Wall  Street,  is  still  standing  the  house  where  Thomas  Ball, 
the  sculptor,  was  born. 

4.    The  West  End 

The  West  End  (see  Plate  II)  comprises  that  quarter  of  the  city  which 
lies  north  of  the  Common  and  between  Beacon,  Tremont,  and  Court 
streets,  Bowdoin  Square,  Green  Street  and  so  northwest  to  the  Charles 
River,  and  Charles  Street  to  Beacon  Street  at  the  foot  of  the  Common. 
It  thus  includes  all  of  Beacon  Hill.  It  is  a  fading  quarter  now,  with  a 
number  of  old  Boston  institutions,  some  mellow  old  streets,  others  in 
hopeless  decay,  and  numerous  landmarks,  especially  of  literary  Boston. 
In  its  better  parts  it  retains  more  distinctly  than  any  other  quarter  of 
the  city  the  genuine  Boston  flavor. 

The  most  interesting  part  is  the  Beacon  Hill  section.  We  have  seen 
its  southern  boundary  in  the  fine  line  of  Beacon  Street  architecture 
opposite  the  Common  from  the  State  House  to  Charles  Street.  Let 
us  enter  it,  therefore,  above  Beacon  Street; — from  the  State  House 
Park  through  the  archway  to  Mt.  Vernon  Street. 

Although  "  The  Hill,"  as  this  was  called  in  its  proud  days,  par  excel- 
lence, is  not  the  oldest  part  of  the  West  End,  it  has  been  from  its 
upbuilding  the  choicest,  and  accordingly  its  associations  are  the  richest. 
Up  to  the  Revolution  it  was  largely  a  region  of  fields  and  pastures. 
Until  near  the  opening  of  the  nineteenth  century  there  were  but  two 
houses  on  the  Beacon  Street  slope  west  of  the  Hancock  mansion.  The 
greater  part  of  the  territory  below  the  Hancock  holdings  was  the  domain 
of  John  Singleton  Copley,  the  painter  (after  his  fortunate  marriage),  from 
about  1769  to  1795.  The  bounds  of  this  "farm,"  as  Copley  called  it, 
although  it  was  chiefly  pasture  land,  are  indicated  generally  by  the 
present  Mt.  Vernon  and  Pinckney  streets  on  the  north,  Walnut  Street  on 
the  east,  the  Common  south,  and  the  Charles  River  west.  It  included 
the  homestead  lot  of  the  first  European  settler,  William  Blaxton,  —  he 
who  was  here  before  the  Winthrop  company,  —  with  the  "  excellent 
spring  "  of  which  he  "  acquainted  "  the  governor  when  he  invited  him 
hither.  It  was  the  acquisition  of  the  Hancock  pasture  for  the  new 
State  House,  —  the  Bulfinch  Front,  —  in  1795,  tnat  gave  the  impulse  to 
the  development  in  this  quarter.     Then  a  "  syndicate  "  purchased  the 


HANCOCK,    MT.  VERNON,   AND    JOY    STREETS       69 

Copley  estate  at  a  bargain  (Copley  was  at  that  time  living  in  England), 
and  in  the  course  of  a  few  years  these  now  old  streets  appeared,  built 
up  substantially,  in  place  of  the  Copley  pastures  and  adjoining  proper- 
ties. A  half-century  after  it  was  remarked  that  on  "  the  Copley  estate 
live,  or  have  lived,  a  large  proportion  of  those  most  distinguished  among 
us  for  intellect  and  learning  or  for  enterprise,  wealth  and  public  spirit." 

On  Mt.  Vernon  Street  from  the  archway  we  are  passing  through  what 
were  the  Hancock  gardens.  Hancock  Street,  coming  up  the  hillside  at 
our  right,  is  the  oldest  of  the  streets  here.  It  originally  ran  by  the  side 
of  the  peak  of  Beacon  Hill  over  to  the  Common.  It  was  given  the 
governor's  name  in  1788.  Near  its  foot,  on  the  east  side,  is  the  Sumner 
house  (No.  20)  in  which  Charles  Sumner  lived  from  1830  to  1867.  Along 
the  same  side,  extending  from  Derne  Street  nearly  up  to  Mt.  Vernon 
Street,  stood  from  1849  to  J^4  the  Beacon  Hill  Reservoir,  a  massive 
granite  structure  with  lofty  arches  piercing  its  front  walls,  notable  as 
a  superior  piece  of  architecture.  Its  service  as  a  distributing  reservoir 
closed  some  time  before  its  removal,  clearing  the  way  for  the  State 
House  Annex. 

Joy  Street,  the  first  to  cross  Mt.  Vernon,  is  next  to  Hancock  Street  in 
age.  It  used  to  be  Belknap  Street,  the  principal  way  to  the  negro  quar- 
ters on  the  north  slope  of  the  hill.  Midway  in  its  descent  to  Cambridge 
Street  a  dingy  court  opens,  Smith  by  name,  in  which  is  a  landmark  of 
antislavery  days.  This  is  the  brick  meetinghouse  erected  for  the  first 
African  church  (built  in  1806),  now  a  Jewish  synagogue,  which  was  used 
for  abolition  meetings.  It  was  after  a  meeting  held  here  on  the  evening 
of  December  3,  i860,  commemorating  the  execution  of  John  Brown,  that 
Wendell  Phillips  was  assisted  to  his  home,  then  on  Essex  Street,  by  a 
volunteer  guard  of  forty  young  men  with  locked  arms,  pressed  closely  by 
a  threatening  mob.  At  the  fairer  end  of  this  street,  near  Beacon  Street, 
is  the  Diocesan  House  (1  Joy  Street),  the  headquarters  of  the  Protestant 
Episcopal  Church.  Here  are  the  offices  of  various  church  organiza- 
tions, the  parlors  of  the  Episcopal  Church  Association,  and  the  library. 
Above  (No.  3),  is  the  house  of  the  Twentieth  Century  Club,  which  con- 
cerns itself  with  many  reforms,  social,  governmental,  and  philanthropic. 

As  we  proceed  along  Mt.  Vernon  Street,  which  grows  in  old-fashioned 
stateliness  as  it  advances  over  the  hill,  we  come  upon  a  succession  of 
houses  with  an  interesting  past.  No.  49,  on  the  north  side,  was  long 
the  home  of  Lemuel  Shaw,  chief  justice  of  the  Massachusetts  Supreme 
Judicial  Court  for  thirty  years  (1830-1860).  Its  near  neighbor  (No.  53), 
now  the  house  of  the  General  Theological  Library,  was  once  the  dwelling 
of  a  merchant  of  distinction.  The  library  which  has  succeeded  it  is 
an  unsectarian  institution  established  since   i860,  for  the  purpose  of 


;o  WEST  END 

"promoting  religious  and  theological  learning,"  having  a  collection  of 
21,000  volumes  and  some  5,000  pamphlets. 

It  is  a  special  library  of  standard  and  current  theological  books,  that  term 
being  used  in  its  broad  sense  to  cover  works  on  sociology,  philosophy,  comparative 
religions,  and  archaeological  research.  Its  books  are  free  to  all  New  England 
clergymen ;  and  beyond  "  Greater  Boston  "  they  are  furnished  through  the  local 
public  libraries.     The  Rev.  George  A.  Jackson  is  the  librarian. 

The  head  of  the  stately  row  of  houses  beyond,  set  back  thirty  feet 
from  the  street  (No.  57),  was  the  town  house  of  Charles  Francis  Adams, 
Sr.,  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life.  The  next  one  in  this  row  (No. 
59),  with  its  classic  doorway,  is  most  interesting  as  the  last  home  of 
Thomas  Bailey  Aldrich,  and  associated  with  his  ripest  work.  No.  65, 
transformed  into  an  apartment  house,  so,  unhappily,  breaking  the  sym- 
metry of  the  rowT,  was  formerly  the  home  of  Senator  Henry  Cabot  Lodge, 
where  some  of  his  most  notable  historical  writing  was  done.  No.  79 
was  the  home  of  Horace  Gray  during  his  long  service  on  the  Supreme 
bench  of  the  State  as  justice  and  chief  justice,  before  he  wTas  made  a 
justice  of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court.  The  last  house  of  the 
row  (No.  83)  was  the  last  Boston  home  of  William  Ellery  Channing, 
wrhose  study  here  was  the  "  Mecca  of  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men." 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  the  ornate  browTnstone  houses  with 
lofty  entrances,  now  the  Theological  School  of  Boston  University,  were 
hospitable  mansions  erected  in  the  fifties  of  the  last  century  by  the 
brothers  John  E.  and  Nathaniel  Thayer,  eminent  merchants  of  their 
time  and  benefactors  of  Harvard  University.  No.  76,  just  below,  was 
the  home  of  Margaret  Deland  for  a  number  of  years,  during  the  period 
marked  by  her  "  Philip  and  His  Wife."  No.  88,  on  the  low7er  corner  of 
little  Willow  Street  (which  connecting,  nearly,  with  another  little  street 
across  Chestnut  Street  provides  a  "  short  cut "  to  the  Common),  wras 
once  the  home  of  Enoch  Train,  the  projector  of  the  line  of  fast  clipper 
ships  to  Liverpool,  fine  craft  which  came  into  successful  competition 
with  the  early  ocean  steamships.  He  was  the  father  of  Mrs.  A.  D.  T. 
Whitney  of  Milton,  the  favorite  writer  of  girls'  stories.  No.  92  was  the 
home  and  studio  of  Anne  Whitney  during  the  years  that  she  was  model- 
ing some  of  her  most  notable  statues  — the  Samuel  Adams  (see  p.  15) 
and  the  Leif  Ericson  (see  p.  79)  among  them. 

Louisburg  Square,  with  its  inclosed  park  of  lofty  trees  and  diminutive 
Italian  marble  statues  of  Aristides  and  Columbus  at  either  end,  sug- 
gestive of  old  London  residential  squares,  connects  Mt.  Vernon  with 
Pinckney  Street,  the  latter  with  an  air  of  shabby  gentility  yet  borne  with 
decorum.     Blaxton's  spring  is  believed  to  have  been  in  the  middle  of 


PINCKNEY    STREET  71 

this  square.  The  point  is  disputed  by  local  historians,  the  popular 
location  being  in  Spring  Lane,  north  of  the  Old  South  Meetinghouse  ; 
but  the  evidence  in  support  of  the  Louisburg  Square  situation  is 
accepted  as  conclusive  by  most  authorities.  The  matter,  however,  is 
not  of  moment,  for  the  town  was  full  of  springs  when  Blaxton 
"  solicited  "   Winthrop  hither. 

Blaxton's  orchard  spread  back  up  the  hill  slope  toward  this  square.  His 
homestead  lot  of  six  acres,  reserved  after  his  sale  of  the  whole  peninsula  to  the 
colonists  for  thirty  pounds,  occupied  the  northwesterly  slope  of  the  hill,  bounded 
southerly  toward  the  Common  and  westerly  on  Charles  River,  the  water's  edge 
then  being  at  the  present  Charles  Street.  His  cottage,  with  its  rose  garden,  was 
on  the  hill  slope  toward  the  Common,  between  the  present  Spruce  and  Charles 
streets.  He  moored  his  boat  on  the  river,  presumably  at  a  point  which  jutted  out 
from  the  bluff  in  which  the  hill  ended,  on  the  Charles  Street  side. 

At  No.  10  Louisburg  Square  was  the  last  Boston  home  of  Louisa  M. 
Alcott,  where  her  remarkable  father,  A.  Bronson  Alcott,  died  (1888)  in 
his  eighty-ninth  year ;  her  own  death  following  the  day  of  his  funeral. 
No.  4  was  the  home  of  William  D.  Howells  in  the  late  eighteen-seventies, 
when  he  was  a  Bostonian  editing  the  Atlantic.  No.  20  is  interesting  as 
the  house  where  Jennie  Lind  was  married  in  1852. 

On  the  upper  corner  of  the  square  and  Pinckney  Street  are  the  main 
house  and  the  chapel  of  the  Sisterhood  of  St.  Margaret,  Protestant 
Episcopal,  where  is  St.  Margaret's  Hospital,  one  of  the  most  worthy 
institutions  of  the  city.  The  infirmaries  occupy  two  additional  houses 
on  this  square. 

Pinckney  Street  extends  from  Joy  Street  to  the  river,  with  but  two 
streets  crossing  it.  At  the  upper  end  was  for  forty  years  the  home  of 
Edwin  P.  Whipple,  the  essayist,  the  plain  brick  house,  No.  11.  Lower 
down,  on  the  opposite  side,  the  house  No.  20  was  the  home  of  the 
Alcott  family  in  the  fifties  of  the  last  century,  the  scene  of  Louisa  M. 
Alcott's  early  struggle  in  authorship  mingled  with  domestic  occupations. 
At  No.  54,  nearly  opposite  the  opening  of  Anderson  Street,  was  the 
early  home  of  George  S.  Hillard,  lawyer,  editor,  critic,  and  essayist,  remem- 
bered especially  through  his  "  Hillard's  Readers "  of  the  mid-fifties. 
From  this  house  Hawthorne  in  1842  wrote  his  little  note  to  the  Rev. 
James  Freeman  Clarke  requesting  "  the  greatest  favor  which  I  can 
receive  from  any  man,"  —  the  performance  of  the  ceremony  of  his 
marriage  to  Sophia  Peabody.  Hillard  lived  for  a  much  longer  period 
at  No.  62.  On  the  lower  slope  of  the  street,  below  the  square,  at 
No.  84,  was  the  first  Boston  home  of  Aldrich  after  his  marriage,  where 
Longfellow  got  the  inspiration  for  "  The  Hanging  of  the  Crane."  The 
"  Story  of  a  Bad  Boy"  issued  from  this  house. 


72  WEST  END 

On  Mt.  Vernon  Street  again  we  may  see  just  below  West  Cedar 
Street  the  first  home  of  Margaret  Deland  in  this  quarter,  —  No.  112, — 
where  some  of  her  earlier  books  were  written  ;  and  nearly  opposite, 
at  No.  99,  the  home  of  John  C.  Ropes,  in  his  day  the  authority  on 
Napoleonic  literature. 

By  West  Cedar  Sti'eet  we  cross  to  Chestnut  Street,  possessing  in  its 
entirety,  perhaps,  more  of  the  old  Boston  flavor  than  the  other  streets 
of  "The  Hill."  In  the  short  block  of  West  Cedar  Street  through 
which  we  pass,  note  should  be  taken  on  one  side  of  the  town  house 
of  Percival  Lowell  (No.  11),  the  astronomer  and  producer  of  notable 
books ;  on  the  other  side  the  house  of  Henry  C.  Merwin  (No.  3),  the 
essayist  and  literary  authority  on  the  American  horse;  and,  at  No.  1, 
the  home  of  the  Harvard  Musical  Association,  organized  in  1837  "  to 
promote  the  progress  and  knowledge  of  the  best  music,"  and  from  its 
establishment  a  leading  factor  in  the  development  of  musical  culture 
in  Boston. 

Up  Chestnut  Street  on  one  side  and  down  on  the  other  we  shall 
pass  a  series  of  historic  houses.  No.  50,  on  the  south  side,  was  the 
town  house  of  Francis  Parkman,  from  1864  until  his  death  (1893)  identi- 
fied with  the  most  of  his  historical  work  in  the  preparation  of  his 
"  France  and  England  in  North  America."  No.  43,  nearly  opposite, 
was  for  upwards  of  forty  years  the  town  house  of  Richard  H.  Dana,  Sr., 
the  poet;  here  he  died  (1896)  at  ninety-one.  A  little  way  above,  the 
house  presenting  a  side  bay  to  the  street  (No.  29)  was  the  sometime  home 
of  Edwin  Booth,  the  actor.  Higher  up  the  street  a  group  of  three  houses 
(Nos.  17,  15,  and  13)  arrest  attention  as  examples  of  the  best  type  of 
early  nineteenth-century  domestic  architecture.  The  first  was  the  long- 
time home  of  Cyrus  A.  Bartol,  the  "poet  preacher"  and  essayist;  the  sec- 
ond is  the  ancestral  home  of  Dr.  B.  Joy  Jeffries  ;  the  third  was  for  some 
years  the  home  of  Rev.  John  T.  Sargent,  the  meeting  place  of  the  Radical 
Club,  renowned  in  its  day,  which  came  after  the  Transcendental  Club  of 
wider  fame.     Mrs.  Julia  Ward  Howe  also  lived  some  years  in  this  house. 

On  Walmit  Street,  where  Chestnut  Street  ends,  —  or,  more  properly, 
begins,  —  was  the  historian  Motley's  boyhood  home,  in  a  pleasant  house 
"looking  down  Chestnut  Street,"  now  replaced  by  a  more  modern 
dwelling.  At  8  Walnut  Street  was  Parkman's  earlier  house,  from  which 
he  removed  to  50  Chestnut  Street. 

Returning  now  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  and  taking  Charles  Street  north- 
ward (once  beautified  by  handsome  trees,  now  all  gone  save  one  or  two 
worn  remnants),  we  may  pass  the  Charles  Street  houses  once  the  homes 
of  Dr.  Holmes,  James  T.  Fields,  and  T.  B.  Aldrich  (Nos.  164,  148,  and  131, 
respectively).     On  the  way  we  should  notice  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Vernon 


CHARLESBANK 


73 


Street  toward  the  river  the  Church  of  the  Advent  (Protestant  Episcopal), 
a  picturesque  structure  in  the  early  English  style  of  architecture,  with 
stone  tower  and  steeple.  In  the  tower  is  a  chime  of  bells.  The  church 
organization  dates  from  1844. 

The  old  literary  homes  of  Charles  Street  are  near  together  toward 
Cambridge  Street. 

Holmes's  life  at  No.  164  was  between  1859  and  1S71,  covering  the  period  of 
his  "  Professor  at  the  Breakfast  Table,"  "  Elsie  Venner,"  and  "  The  Guardian 
Angel,"  his  war  poems  and  most  noteworthy  verses  of  occasion.  Aldrich  moved 
into  No.  131  from  the  Pinckney  Street  house  the  year  that  Holmes  moved  from 
the  street  to  296  Beacon  Street.  He  remained  here  for  about  ten  years  and 
then  moved  to  the  Mt. 
Vernon  Street  house. 
This  Charles  Street 
house  is  identified  with 
his  "Marjorie  Daw," 
"Prudence  Palfrey," 
"  The  Queen  of  Sheba," 
and  "The  Stillwater 
Tragedy,"  and  the 
beginning  of  his  editor- 
ship of  the  Atlantic 
Monthly.  Fields  was 
the  earliest  of  the  three 
to  come  to  Charles 
Street,  and  this  re- 
mained his  home  until 
his  death  (188 1).  It  is 
still  maintained  as  the 
town     home    of    Mrs. 

Annie  Fields  and  Sarah  Orne  Jewett.  The  library  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
authors'  manuscripts.  The  complete  manuscript  of  "  The  Scarlet  Letter " 
is  here. 

Across  Cambridge  Street  is  the  Charlesbank,  the  pleasant  park  with 
trees  and  shrubs  and  shaded  seats,  along  the  riverfront  of  Charles  Street, 
between  the  West  Boston  and  Craigie  bridges.  It  is  especially  designed 
for  the  poorer  classes  living  in  the  neighborhood.  Here  are  gymnasiums 
for  both  sexes,  and  playgrounds  and  sand  courts  for  children.  It  is  a 
part  of  the  City  Public  Parks  System. 

The  successive  institutions  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  street  are 
the  County  Jail,  generally  called  the  Charles  Street  Jail,  the  Massachu- 
setts Charitable  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary  (incorporated  1827),  and  the 
Massachusetts  General  Hospital  (incorporated  181 1).  The  latter  fronts 
on  Blossom  Street,  and  embraces  a  group  of  noble  buildings.     The 


74  BACK  BAY 

oldest,  or  central  building,  with  porticoes  of  Ionic  columns  and  shapely 
dome,  was  designed  by  Bulfinch.  In  the  old  operating  room  the  first 
successful  operation  upon  a  patient  under  the  influence  of  ether  was 
performed  in  October,  1846,  by  Dr.  W.  T.  G.  Morton.  This  event  is 
commemorated  by  the  Ether  Monument,  so  called,  in  the  Public  Garden. 
At  Dr.  Morton's  grave  in  Mt.  Auburn,  Cambridge,  is  also  a  monu- 
ment. On  North  Grove  Street,  at  one  side  of  the  hospital,  is  the  first 
Harvard  Medical  School  building  (now  occupied  by  the  Dental  School), 
the  scene  of  the  Parkman  7nurder  in  1849,  — tne  killing  of  Dr.  George 
Parkman  by  Professor  John  W.  Webster.  Both  were  men  of  good 
social  and  professional  standing,  and  the  trial  was  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  in  Boston.     Webster  \as  executed  the  following  year. 

The  only  other  object  of  interest  in  this  older  part  of  the  West  End 
is  the  West  Church,  at  the  corner  of  Cambridge  and  Lynde  streets,  now 
the  West  End  Branch  of  the  Public  Library.  The  building  dates  from 
1806.  Its  predecessor  was  used  for  barracks  during  the  Siege,  and  the 
steeple  was  taken  down  because  it  had  been  used  in  making  signals  to 
the  Continental  camp  at  Cambridge.  The  present  building  was  long 
the  pulpit  of  Charles  Lowell,  the  father  of  James  Russell  Lowell,  and 
Cyrus  A.  Bartol. 

5.    The  Back  Bay 

The  Public  Garden  below  the  Common,  between  Beacon,  Charles, 
Boylston,  and  Arlington  streets,  is  the  gateway  to  the  Back  Bay  District 
(see  Plates  I  and  II),  the  modern  "court  end"  of  Boston.  Common- 
wealth Avenue  is  its  principal  boulevard.  Boylston  Street  to  Copley 
Square,  and  Huntington  Avenue  beyond,  are  its  southern  bounds; 
Beacon  Street  and  Charles  River  its  northern  bounds.  Copley  Square 
is  its  central  point.  Massachusetts  Avenue  is  its  great  western  cross 
thoroughfare.  To  this  avenue  the  streets  of  the  quarter  —  with  the 
exception  of  Huntington  Avenue,  which  begins  at  Copley  Square  — 
run  parallel  to  or  at  right  angles  with  Beacon  Street  on  the  Charles 
River  side.  The  cross  streets,  beginning  with  Arlington  Street,  are 
named  in  alphabetical  order,  a  trisyllable  alternating  with  a  disyllable 
word.  Broad  thoroughfares  and  imposing  architecture  characterize  this 
quarter.  The  streets  north  of  Boylston  Street  between  Arlington 
Street  and  Massachusetts  Avenue  are  free  from  car  tracks.  Common- 
wealth Avenue,  with  its  tree-lined  parkway,  broken  here  and  there  by 
statues,  is  two  hundred  feet  wide,  or  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet  from 
house  to  house,  between  Arlington  Street  and  Massachusetts  Avenue. 
It  extends   beyond   the    original    limits    of   the   quarter,  through   the 


BACK  BAY  75 

Brighton  District  to  the  western  boundary  of  the  city  at  the  Newton 
line.  Huntington  Avenue,  with  a  middle  green  occupied  by  street-car 
tracks,  is  one  hundred'  feet  in  width,  or  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet 
from  house  to  house.  It  extends  to  the  Brookline  line.  Massachu- 
setts Avenue  comes  into  the  quarter  from  the  Dorchester  District, 
where  it  begins  at  Edward  Everett  Square  (so  named  from  the  birth- 
place of  Edward  Everett,  which  stood  at  this  point)  and,  crossing  Har- 
vard Bridge,  continues  through  Cambridge,  Arlington,  and  Lexington. 
All  the  territory  of  this  district  is  "  made  land  "  in  place  of  the  bay 
whose  name  it  takes,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  making  up  from  Charles 
River,  which  at  flood  time  spread  out  from  the  present  Charles  Street 
by  the  Common  to  the  "  Neck  "  (the  narrow  stem  of  the  original  penin- 


Harvard  Bridge 

sula)  and  Roxbury,  and  toward  the  hills  of  Brookline.  The  Public 
Garden  was  the  "  Round  Marsh,"  or  "  the  marsh  at  the  bottom  of  the 
Common." 

The  filling  of  the  bay  was  planned  in  1852  by  a  State  commission,  the  Com- 
monwealth having  the  right  to  the  flats  below  the  line  of  riparian  ownership.  At 
that  time  the  bay  was  a  great  basin  made  by  dams  thrown  across  it  for  the  utili- 
zation of  its  water  power  by  mills  on  its  borders.  These  dams  were  also  used 
as  causeways  for  communication  between  Boston  and  Roxbury  and  the  western 
suburbs.  They  were  the  "  Mill  Dam,'-  now  included  in  lower  Beacon  Street ;  the 
"  Cross  Dam,"  extending  from  the  Roxbury  side  to  the  Mill  Dam ;  and  the  cause- 
way, corresponding  in  part  with  the  present  Brookline  Avenue  (earlier  the  Punch 
Bowl  Road),  which  extends  from  the  junction  of  Beacon  Street  and  Common- 
wealth Avenue  southwest  to  the  Brookline  line.  The  filling  was  practically 
begun  in  1857  and  finished  in  1886.  It  was  done  by  the  Commonwealth  and  the 
Boston  Water  Power  Company.  The  Commonwealth  owned  108.44  acres  of  the 
territory.  On  its  sales  of  the  land  remaining  after  large  gifts  to  institutions, 
and  reservations  for  the  city  of  Boston,  and  for  streets  and  passageways,  it  made 
a  net  profit  of  upward  of  four  million  dollars.  The  avails  of  the  sale  were  applied 
to  educational  purposes  and  to  the  endowment  of  several  of  the  sinking  funds  of 
the  State. 


76 


PUBLIC   GARDEN 


The  Public  Garden  is  the  gem  of  the  city  parks,  essentially  a  flower 
garden,  with  rich  verdure,  a  dainty  foil  to  the  plainer  Common.     The 


Bridge,  Public  Garden 

artificial  pond  in  the  middle  of  the  inclosure  is  so  irregularly  shaped  as 
to  appear  extensive,  although  its  actual  area  is  only  three  and  three 
quarters  acres.  The  iron  bridge  which  carries  the  main  path  over  the 
pond  has  been  endowed  by  the  local  wits  with  the  title  of  the  "  Bridge 

of  Size,"  from  its  ponderous  piers. 
The  statues  and  monuments  here 
are: 

On  the  Beacon  Street  side: 
Statue  of  Edward  Everett,  of 
bronze,  by  William  W.  Story. 
Erected  in  1867.  The  cost  met 
by  a  popular  subscription.  The 
Ether  Momiment,  commemorating 
the  discovery  of  anaesthetics,  of 
granite  and  red  marble,  by  J.  Q.  A. 
Ward.  Erected  in  1868.  The 
ideal  figures  surmounting  the  shaft 
illustrate  the  story  of  the  Good 
Samaritan ;  the  marble  bas-reliefs 
represent  (1)  a  surgical  operation 
in  a  civic  hospital,  the  patient  being 
under  the  influence  of  ether,  (2)  the 
angel  of  mercy  descending  to  re- 
lieve suffering  humanity,  (3)  the 
interior  of  a  field  hospital,  showing 
a  wounded  soldier  in  the  hands 
of  the  surgeon,  (4)  an  allegory  of  the  triumph  of  science.  This  monu- 
ment was  a  gift  to  the  city  by  Thomas  Lee. 


Channing  Statue 


PUBLIC   GARDEN 


77 


Entrance  to  Subway,  Public  Garden 


On  the  Boylston  Street  side  :  Statue  of  Charles  Sumner,  of  bronze, 

by  Thomas  Ball.     Erected  in  1878.     This  was  provided  for  by  popular 

subscription.       Statue  of 

Colonel     Thomas     Cass 

(commander  of  the  Ninth 

Regiment,  Massachusetts 

Volunteers,  in   the   Civil 

War ;    killed  at   Malvern 

Hill,  Va.,  July  1,  1862),  of 

bronze,     by    Richard    E. 

Brooks.    Erected  in  1889. 

A  gift  to  the  city  by  the 

Society     of     the     Ninth 

Regiment. 

On  the  Arlington  Street 

side :    Statue  of  William 

Ellery    Channing   (facing 

the    Arlington    Street    Church    on    the    opposite    side    of    the    street, 

the  successor  of  the  Federal  Street  Church,  which  was  the  pulpit  of 

Channing),  of  bronze,  by  Herbert  Adams.  The  carved  canopy,  of  gran- 
ite and  marble,  designed  by  Vincent 
C.  Griffith,  architect.  Erected  in  1903. 
A  gift  to  the  city  by  John  Foster. 
On  the  marble  columns  of  the  can- 
opy and  on  the  marble  stone  at  the 
back  of  the  monument  are  inscriptions. 
The  equestrian  statue  of  Washington 
(in  the  main  path,  facing  the  Arlington 
Street  gate),  of  bronze,  by  Thomas 
Ball.  Erected  in  1869.  Provided  for 
by  popular  subscription.  The  marble 
Venus  in  the  fountain  near  by  was  the 
first  work  of  art  placed  in  the  Garden. 
The  Arlington  Street  Church  (Uni- 
tarian), which  dignifies  the  corner  of 
Arlington  and  Boylston  streets,  was 
the  first  church  built  in  this  quarter 
( 1 860-1 861).  Its  exterior  design  is 
broadly  after  old  London  Wren 
churches.     The  steeple  was  the  first  in 

Boston  to  be  constructed  entirely  of  stone.     In  its  tower  is  a  chime  of 

sixteen  bells.     The  church  organization  dates  from  1727. 


f 


Washington  Statue, 
Public  Garden 


78  COMMONWEALTH  AVENUE 

On  the  corner  of  Arlington  Street  and  Newbury  Street  (the  next  street 
north  opening  from  Arlington  Street)  is  the  house  of  the  New  Church 
Union,  the  headquarters  of  the  New  Jerusalem  Church.  Here  are 
established  the  New  Church  libraries  and  the  business  departments  of 
the  Union,  which  is  the  business  and  financial  representative  of  the 
Massachusetts  Association  of  the  New  Jerusalem  Church. 

Next  to  this  building,  on  Newbury  Street  (No.  2),  is  the  house  of  the 
St.  Botolph  Club,  the  representative  literary  and  professional  club  of 
the  city,  taking  its  name  from  St.  Botolph  in  old  Boston,  England 
(organized  in  1880  ;  Francis  Parkman,  the  historian,  the  first  president). 
It  possesses  a  silver-gilt  "  loving  cup  "  which  formerly  belonged  to  the 
corporation  of  the  English  Boston.  In  its  art  gallery  exhibitions  of  new 
work  by  artists  are  given  during  the  winter  season.  The  picturesque 
church  nearly  opposite  the  St.  Botolph  is  Emmanuel  Church  (Protestant 
Episcopal).  It  is  built  of  the  local  Roxbury  conglomerate  stone.  The 
church  organization  dates  from  i860,  and  this  edifice  was  erected  two 
years  later. 

Commonwealth  Avenue  opens  from  the  middle  of  Arlington  Street, 
its  parkway  being  directly  opposite  the  main  path  of  the  Public  Garden, 
which  terminates  at  the  Arlington  Street  gate.  A  lovely  vista  opens 
through  the  long  park  of  beautiful  trees.  The  succession  of  statues 
down  the  long  walk  are  : 

Alexander  Hamilton,  of  granite,  by  Dr.  William  Rimmer.  Erected 
in  1865.  A  gift  to  the  city  by  Thomas  Lee,  the  same  who  gave  the 
Ether  Monument  in  the  Public  Garden.  This  was  the  first  statue 
in  the  country  to  be  cut  from  granite.  The  inscription  characterizes 
Hamilton  as  "orator,  writer,  soldier,  jurist,  financier.  Although  his 
particular  province  was  the  treasury,  his  genius  pervaded  the  whole 
administration  of  Washington." 

General  John  Glover  of  Marblehead,  "  a  soldier  of  the  Revolution," 
of  bronze,  by  Martin  Milmore.  Erected  in  1875.  A  gift  to  the 
city  by  Benjamin  T.  Read.  The  inscription  details  the  conspicuous 
features  of  Glover's  military  service  with  his  marine  regiment  of  Mar- 
blehead men,  notably  his  leadership  in  transporting  the  army  across 
the  river  from  Brooklyn  to  New  York  and  across  the  Delaware  in 
1776. 

William  Lloyd  Garrison,  a  sitting  figure,  of  bronze,  by  Olin  L. 
Warner.  Erected  in  1886.  The  fund  for  this  statue  was  raised  by 
popular  subscription.  Beneath  the  chair  in  which  the  figure  is  seated 
lies  a  representation  of  a  volume  of  the  Liberator.  The  inscriptions 
are  quotations  of  the  motto  of  the  Liberator :  "  Our  Country  is  the 
World  —  Our   Countrymen    are    Mankind " ;    and    the    declaration    in 


COMMONWEALTH  AVENUE 


79 


Garrison's  salutatory  in  his  paper :  "lam  in  earnest  —  I  will  not  equivo- 
cate—  I  will  not  excuse  —  I  will  not  retreat  a  single  inch  —  and  I  will 
be  heard." 

Leif  Ericson,  the  Norse  discoverer,  of  the  year  iooo;  an  ideal  figure, 
of  bronze,  by  Anne  Whitney.  Erected  in  1886.  The  pedestal  dis- 
plays reliefs,  one  representing  a  Norse  scene,  —  a  banqueting  hall,  with 
Leif  returned  from  his  voyages  relating  his  discoveries ;  the  other 
the  Norse  landing  on  American  shores.  This  statue  is  across  Massa- 
chusetts Avenue  where  the  parkway  ends. 

On  Berkeley  Street,  at  the  corner  of  Marlborough  Street,  a  block 
north  of  Commonwealth  Avenue,  is  the  beautiful  stone  edifice,  with 
corner  tower  and  steeple,  of  the  First 
Church  of  Boston  (Unitarian),  fifth  in 
succession  from  the  rude  little  fabric  of 
1632  on  the  present  State  Street  (see  p.  5). 
It  was  erected  in  1868,  succeeding  the 
meetinghouse  which  stood  on  Chauncy 
Place  (now  Street),  off  Summer  Street, 
in  the  business  quarter,  for  sixty  years. 
The  Rev.  William  Emerson,  father  of 
Ralph  Waldo  Emerson,  was  the  minister 
of  the  church  (his  service  being  from 
1 791  to  181 1 )  when  that  meetinghouse 
was  built  in  1808. 

On  Berkeley  Street,  at  the  corner  of 
Marlborough  Street,  south  of  the  avenue, 
is  the  Gothic  Central  Church  (Congre- 
gational Trinitarian),  built  in  1867.  Like 
the  First  Church  this  is  constructed  of 
the  Roxbury  rubble,  with  sandstone  trim- 
mings.    Its  fine  spire,  two  hundred  and 

thirty-six  feet  high,  is  the  tallest  in  the  city.  This  church  (erected 
in  1867)  is  the  successor  of  the  first  meetinghouse  of  the  society, 
which  stood  on  Winter  Street,  in  the  heart  of  the  "  down-town  "  shop- 
ping quarter,  from  1841  to  1865. 

The  only  church  on  Commonwealth  Avenue  is  the  notable  structure 
with  its  Florentine  tower,  at  the  western  corner  of  Clarendon  Street. 
This  is  the  First  Baptist  Church,  descendant  of  the  pioneer  Baptist  meet- 
inghouse at  the  North  End  which  the  then  proscribed  sect  built  in  1679, 
and  which  not  long  after  was  nailed  up  by  the  court  officers  (see  p.  57). 
This  edifice  was  originally  erected  (in  1873)  by  the  Brattle  Square 
Church  organization  (Unitarian),  to  succeed  the  historic  meetinghouse 


Leif  Ericson  Statue 


80         COPLEY   SQUARE   AND   ITS   SURROUNDINGS 

in  Brattle  Square  (see  p.  17).  It  was  purchased  by  the  Baptists  after 
the  dissolution  of  the  Unitarian  society  and  the  sale  of  the  church 
property  by  auction.  The  massive  square  stone  tower,  rising  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-six  feet,  with  frieze  of  colossal  bas-reliefs,  gives  this 
structure  an  especial  distinction  in  the  Back  Bay  architecture.  The 
sculptured  figures  on  the  four  sides  of  the  frieze  represent  the  four 
Christian  eras,  —  baptism,  communion,  marriage,  and  death  ;  the  statues 
at  the  angles  typify  the  angels  of  the  judgment  blowing  golden  trum- 
pets. These  figures  were  cut  by  Italian  sculptors  from  designs  by 
Bartholdi  after  the  stones  had  been  set  in  place. 

The  lower  south  corner  of  the  avenue  and  Dartmouth  Street  is 
impressively  marked  by  the  great  marble  hotel,  the  Vendome.  Farther 
down,  on  the  north  side,  below  Exeter  Street,  is  the  Algonquin  Club- 
house, a  light  stone  building  of  striking  facade,  sumptuously  designed 
and  arranged  for  the  club's  uses.  The  Algonquin  (organized  in  1885) 
is  the  representative  business  club  of  the  city,  composed  largely  of 
active  men  of  affairs.  In  near  neighborhood  —  on  Beacon  Street, 
nearly  opposite  the  head  of  Exeter  Street  —  is  the  University  Club- 
house. It  is  a  rich  dwelling  refashioned  for  club  uses.  It  is  especially 
favored  by  position  with  an  outlook  at  the  rear  over  the  river.  This 
club  (organized  in  1892),  composed  of  college  graduates  resident  in 
Boston  and  vicinity,  is  one  of  the  largest  of  its  class  in  the  country. 

Below  Exeter  Street,  also  on  the  favored  water  side  of  Beacon  Street, 
is  the  Holmes  house  (No.  296),  the  last  town  house  of  Dr.  Holmes,  iden- 
tified with  the  mellow  productions  of  his  latter  years  and  old  age,  —  as 
"  The  Poet  at  the  Breakfast  Table,"  "  Over  the  Teacups,"  the  grave 
and  gay  poems,  "  The  Iron  Gate,"  and  "  The  Broomstick  Train  "  on 
the  advent  of  the  trolley  car.  Farther  down,  at  No.  392,  is  the  home 
of  James  Ford  Rhodes,  the  historian  of  the  United  States  "from  the 
compromise  of  1850."  Above  Exeter  Street,  on  the  south  side  of 
Beacon  Street  (No.  241),  is  the  latter-day  home  of  Julia  Ward  Howe. 

Copley  Square  and  its  Surroundings.  Copley  Square  is  at  the  junction 
of  Boylston  Street,  Huntington  Avenue,  Trinity  Place,  St.  James  Ave- 
nue, and  Dartmouth  Street.  The  cross  streets,  Berkeley  and  Clarendon, 
are  near  its  eastern  boundary;  the  thoroughfare  of  Dartmouth  Street 
makes  its  western  bound.  About  the  square  and  in  its  immediate  neigh- 
borhood are  grouped  some  of  the  most  important  institutions  of  the 
city,  with  noble  buildings,  beautiful  churches,  and  attractive  hotels. 
Bounding  the  square  are :  the  Public  Library,  occupying  the  entire 
west  side;  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  the  Westminster  Chambers,  and 
Trinity  Church  on  the  south  side ;  the  Second  Church  and  the  former 
Girls'1  Latin  School,  north  side  ;   and  the  New  South   Church  marking 


PUBLIC    LIBRARY  81 

the  northwest  corner.  On  Boylston  Street  east  of  the  square,  beginning 
at  Berkeley  Street,  are  :  on  the  north  side,  the  Natural  History  Museum 
and  the  main  buildings  of  the  Massachusetts  Ijistitttte  of  Technology  ; 
on  the  south  side,  the  Young  Merfs  Christian  Association  building  and 
the  Hotel  Brunswick.  On  Boylston  Street  west  of  the  square  is  the 
chief  Boston  University  building,  next  the  Public  Library  and  extend- 
ing to  Exeter  Street.  On  the  lower  corner  of  Exeter  Street  is  the  Hotel 
Lenox.  Nearly  opposite,  on  Exeter  Street,  is  the  Athletic  Clubhouse, 
one  of  the  largest  of  its  class  in  the  country.  On  Dartmouth  Street, 
north,  next  beyond  the  New  Old  South  Church,  is  the  Boston  Art  Club- 
house, with  entrance  on  Newbury  Street.     Opposite  the  clubhouse,  on 


Copley  Square  and  Vicinity 


Dartmouth  Street,  is  the  Hotel  Victoria.  On  Huntington  Avenue,  just 
outside  the  square,  are  the  Hotel  Nottingham,  the  Hotel  Oxford,  and  the 
Copley  Square  Hotel.  A  short  walk  below,  on  Huntington  Avenue,  is 
the  great  building  of  the  Massachusetts  Charitable  Mechanic  Association, 
with  its  fine  halls.  From  the  square  Trinity  Place  leads  directly  to  the 
Trinity  Place  station  of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad  for  outbound 
trains,  and  Dartmouth  Street  leads  to  the  Back  Bay  station  of  the  New 
York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad.  From  Huntington  Avenue,  at 
the  corner  of  Irvington  Street,  a  block  below  the  square,  is  the  passage 
to  the  Huntington  Avenue  station  of  the  New  York  Central  for  inward- 
bound  trains. 

The  Public  Library  building  is  one  of  the  notable  architectural  monu- 
ments of  its  day.     It  is  built  of  granite  of  a  peculiar  pinkish  white  color, 


82 


PUBLIC   LIBRARY 


en- 


the  facade  classic  in  design.  Its  dimensions  are  two  hundred  and 
twenty -five  feet  long  by  two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  deep,  and  its 
height  from  the  sidewalk  to  the  top  of  the  cornice  is  seventy  feet.  It 
is  quadrangular  in  shape,  surrounding  a  court,  and  covers  with  its  broad 
entrance  platform,  exclusive  of  the  court,  an  acre  and  a  half  of  ground. 
The  elegance  of  its  proportions  and  the  purity  of  its  style  are  remarked 
as  the  chief  architectural  merits  of  the  work.  The  main  entrance  is 
topped  with  a  round  arch,  over  which  appears  a  medallion  of  the  seal 
of  the  library  by  Augustus  St.  Gaudens.  Sculptures  by  St.  Gaudens 
are  ultimately  to  be  placed  on  the  stone  blocks  at  either  end  of  the 

platform  by  the  entrance 
doors.  The  vestibule, 
the  entrance  hall  with 
high  vaulted  ceiling,  and 
the  noble  marble  stair- 
case rising  beyond  are 
impressive  features  of 
the  first  floor.  In  the  ves- 
tibule is  the  bronze  statue 
of  Sir  Harry  Vane,  by 
Frederick  MacMonnies. 
The  artistically  embel- 
lished bronze  doors,  ad- 
mitting to  the  entrance 
hall,  were  designed  by  Daniel  C.  French.  In  the  ceiling  of  this  hall 
are  wrought  names  of  men  identified  with  Boston,  eminent  in  letters, 
art,  science,  law,  and  public  work.  The  great  marble  lions  on  either 
side  of  the  first  landing  of  the  staircase  are  by  Louis  St.  Gaudens. 
They  were  memorial  gifts  of  the  Second  and  Twentieth  Regiments, 
Massachusetts  Volunteers,  in  the  Civil  War.  The  decorations  on  the 
walls  of  the  stairway  and  the  corridor  above  are  by  Puvis  de  Chavannes. 
They  represent,  in  separate  panels,  Philosophy,  Astronomy,  History, 
Chemistry,  Physics,  Pastoral  Poetry,  Dramatic  Poetry,  Epic  Poetry, 
and  finally,  in  one  symbolic  composition,  "  The  Muses  welcoming  the 
Genius  of  Enlightenment."  The  decorations  of  the  Delivery  Room, 
which  opens  from  this  corridor,  are  by  Edwin  A.  Abbey,  and  illustrate 
the  legend  of  the  Holy  Grail.  The  walls  of  the  corridor  of  the  upper 
floor,  familiarly  known  as  the  "  Sargent  Hall,"  have  in  part  the  decora- 
tions by  John  S.  Sargent  which  in  their  completed  form  will  represent 
the  triumph  of  religion.  Only  the  panels  of  the  east  and  west  walls  have 
yet  been  finished.  The  subject  of  the  first  of  these  is  the  confused 
struggle  in  the  Jewish  nation  between  monotheism  and  polytheism. 


Public  Library 


PUBLIC   LIBRARY 


83 


That  of  the  second  is  the  dogma  of  the  Redemption.  The  ceiling  of 
the  second  Children's  Room,  on  the  principal  floor,  carries  a  painting 
by  John  Elliott  representing  the  "  Triumph  of  Time  "  ;  twelve  female 
figures  symbolize  the  hours,  and  one  male  figure,  Time.  The  Christian 
centuries  are  typified  by  twenty  horses  arranged  in  rows  of  four  each. 
This  decoration  was  given  to  the  Library  by  citizens  of  Boston.  The 
decorations  of  the  lobby  leading  to  the  Children's  Room  from  the  main 
corridor  are  by  Joseph  Lindon  Smith,  and  were  given  by  Arthur  A. 
Carey,  a  citizen  of  Boston.  The  lobby  at  the  opposite  end  of  the 
corridor  leading  to  the  Delivery  Room  was  decorated  by  Elmer  E. 
Garnsey.  Besides  its  mural  decora- 
tions the  Library  is  rich  in  memorial 
busts  and  other  art  objects. 

The  principal  reading  room,  known 
as  Bates  Hall  (in  honor  of  Joshua 
Bates,  who  gave  the  Library  at  its 
beginning,  in  1852,  a  fund  of  fifty 
thousand  dollars,  besides  an  equiva- 
lent amount  in  books),  is  in  its  dimen- 
sions and  architectural  features  the 
most  important  apartment  in  the  build- 
ing. It  is  two  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet  long,  forty-two  and  one  half  feet 
wide,  and  fifty  feet  high  to  the  crown 
of  the  arches.  The  barrel-arched  ceil- 
ing is  deeply  paneled  and  ornamented 
with  rosettes.  In  this  hall  are  collec- 
tions of  reference  books  and  works  in 
general  literature,  accessible  to  the  public  on  open  shelves.  Readers  are 
also  served  at  the  tables  by  runners,  who  bring  from  the  stacks  such  vol- 
umes as  are  requested  for  hall  use.  The  Children's  Rooms  on  this  floor 
are  entirely  devoted  to  the  needs  of  young  readers.  Special  attendants 
aid  the  children  in  the  selection  of  books,  and  instruct  them  in  the  use 
of  the  library.  Nine  thousand  volumes  are  placed  on  open  shelves 
here,  mainly  the  better  class  of  "juveniles,"  boys'  and  girls'  fiction,  and 
books  of  travel  and  adventure  written  for  the  young.  Large  tables  are 
provided  at  which  the  children  may  read  by  themselves.  The  Children's 
Reference  Room  is  a  study  room,  and  is  equipped  with  books  intended 
to  be  used  by  young  students.  Children  come  here  to  write  composi- 
tions, to  look  up  topics  connected  with  their  school  work,  and  to  pre- 
pare their  daily  lessons.  A  collection  of  the  text-books  used  in  the 
Boston  public  schools  is  an  important  feature  of  this  room,  and  the 


Bates  Hall,  Public  Library 


84  PUBLIC   LIBRARY 

books  contained  in  it  are  alike  helpful  to  those  who  have  left  school 
and  to  teachers  from  other  places.  General  and  special  reference  books 
are  also  shelved  here,  duplicating  in  some  cases  those  kept  in  Bates 
Hall  for  older  readers ;  and  there  is  a  section  of  books  on  pedagogy 
and  kindergarten  methods  for  teachers. 

In  connection  with  the  work  for  children,  the  schools  included  among  the 
agencies  of  the  Library  (sixty-six  public  and  six  parochial  schools)  must  be 
mentioned.  These  are  supplied  with  books  either  for  topical  reference  or  mis- 
cellaneous reading,  which  are  usually  delivered  by  the  Library  wagon  and  may 
be  changed  frequently.  Each  set  of  books  is  made  up  for  the  occasion,  and  the 
teachers'  selection  is  followed  as  far  as  possible.  The  total  number  of  volumes 
sent  to  the  schools  from  the  Central  Library  and  Branches  in  1907  was  19,555. 
Each  large  Branch  library,  also,  regularly  supplies  certain  neighboring  schools. 
Applications  for  Library  cards  are  taken  by  Library  employees  in  all  the  schools 
once  a  year. 

On  the  floor  below  are  the  Patent  Room,  with  the  best  collection  of 
publications  relating  to  patents  to  be  found  in  the  country,  except  that 
at  Washington ;  the  Periodical  Room,  with  a  complete  file  of  current 
periodicals  and  magazines ;  and  the  Newspaper  Room,  in  which  over 
three  hundred  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  regularly 
received  and  placed  on  the  reading  files.  The  Department  of  DocU' 
ments  and  Statistics  is  in  the  rear  part  of  the  building,  approached 
through  the  arcade,  across  the  courtyard  from  the  main-entrance  cor- 
ridor. It  contains  a  large  and  constantly  increasing  collection  of  sta- 
tistical works,  official  publications,  and  books  relating  to  economic 
subjects;  also  many  rare  and  valuable  historical  manuscripts  and 
broadsides. 

On  the  third  floor  are  the  Special  Libraries,  comprising  the  Fine  Arts 
Department,  the  Allett  A.  Brown  Library  of  Music,  and  the  Barton,  Bar- 
low, Prince,  Lavis,  Bowditch,  and  Ticknor  collections.  The  collections 
shelved  on  this  floor  are  mainly  intended  for  reference,  and  ample  accom- 
modation is  provided  for  the  use  of  students  and  for  research  work. 
The  Brown  Library  contains  more  than  eight  thousand  volumes  relating 
to  music ;  the  Barton  Collection  (fourteen  thousand  volumes)  is  espe- 
cially rich  in  Shakespeariana,  unequaled  in  the  world,  outside  of  two  or 
three  great  English  libraries  ;  and  the  Ticknor  Library  includes  nearly 
seven  thousand  volumes  of  Spanish  literature.  These  and  the  other 
collections  designated  by  the  names  of  the  donors  were  presented  to 
the  Library.  All  of  them  contain  many  rare  and  exceedingly  valuable 
books.  The  Fine  Arts  Department  contains,  besides  a  carefully  selected 
collection  of  books  relating  to  architecture,  painting,  and  the  allied  arts, 
more  than  fifteen  thousand  photographs  from  all  over  the  world,  besides 


MUSEUM  OF   FINE   ARTS  85 

six  thousand  process  pictures  for  the  use  of  schools.  Exhibitions  are 
held  regularly  in  a  room  especially  devoted  to  this  purpose,  and  collec- 
tions of  prints  are  sent  to  the  schools  and  to  the  branch  libraries  and 
deposit  stations. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  building,  opening  from  Boylston  Street,  a 
large  Lecture  Hall  is  provided,  in  which  lectures  on  educational  or 
literary  subjects  are  given  during  the  winter  season. 

The  Boston  Public  Library  system  consists  of  the  Central  Library  (this  Copley 
Square  building) ;  eleven  Branch  Libraries,  in  different  parts  of  the  city,  each 
having  permanent  collections  of  books ;  and  seventeen  delivery  stations  (of  which 
all  are  reading  rooms,  formerly  part  service  stations  and  shop  stations).  Regular 
deposits  of  books  are  placed  in  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  schools  and  insti- 
tutions, and  forty-six  fire  stations.  In  all,  therefore,  there  are  two  hundred 
and  thirteen  agencies  for  supplying  books  to  the  public.  Regular  daily  wagon- 
delivery  service  is  maintained  between  the  Central  Library  and  the  outlying 
agencies.  The  administration  of  the  Library  is  controlled  by  a  board  of  five 
trustees  appointed  by  the  mayor,  a  librarian  and  assistant  librarian,  and,  in- 
cluding chiefs  of  departments,  a  staff  of  two  hundred  and  ninety  employees  for 
the  regular  service,  and  ninety-four  for  the  Sunday  and  evening  service.  The 
Central  Library  is  open  daily  from  9  A.M.  to  10  p.m.  (on  Sunday  from  2  p.m.) 
in  the  winter,  closing  one  hour  earlier  in  the  summer,  and  the  hours  at  the 
branches  approximate  this  schedule,  with  some  variation  during  the  period  from 
June  to  September. 

The  Library  comprises  a  collection  of  nearly  nine  hundred  thousand  volumes. 
About  thirty  thousand  are  annually  added.  It  is  a  circulating  library  free  to 
every  resident  of  Boston,  and  the  use  of  the  books  within  the  Library  is  open  to 
all,  whether  resident  of  the  city  or  not.  It  is  not  only  the  largest  circulating  and 
reference  library  in  the  United  States,  but  it  undertakes  a  greater  variety  of 
service  than  is  rendered  by  the  noted  libraries  of  the  world.  By  means  of  an 
interlibrary  loan  system  it  is  serving  scholarship  throughout  the  country,  its 
recorded  applications  for  books  showing  a  wide  range  of  towns  and  cities  and 
educational  institutions.  The  annual  circulation  for  home  use  is  more  than 
one  million  five  hundred  thousand  volumes,  including  the  circulation  from  the 
branches.  Besides  this  there  is  an  extensive  use  of  books  in  the  Library  itself 
of  which  no  statistical  record  is  kept. 

The  Library  maintains  its  own  printing  department  and  bindery.  It  issues  a 
Monthly  Bulletin  of  new  accessions,  and  from  time  to  time  special  bibliographies 
and  other  publications  of  importance.  The  annual  appropriation  made  by  the 
city  for  the  maintenance  of  the  institution  is  about  $$300,000.  It  also  enjoys 
the  income  from  about  $ 385,000  of  invested  trust  funds.  Horace  G.  Wadlin  is 
the  present  librarian.  The  architects  of  the  Central  Library  were  McKim,  Mead 
&  White.  Its  total  cost,  including  the  land,  was  #2,500,000.  It  was  opened  to 
the  public  in  1895. 

The  Museum  of  Fine  Arts  (incorporated  1870,  opened  1876),  built 
of  brick  with  terra-cotta  ornament,  is  in  interesting  contrast  with  the 


86 


MUSEUM  OF  FINE  ARTS 


Public  Library.  It  forms  a  square  about  a  central  court.  The  insti- 
tution ranks  with  the  more  important  art  museums  of  the  world. 
Among  the  objects  in  the  entrance  hall  are  works  of  earlier  American 
sculptors  and  two  good  paintings  by  Boucher.  The  four  rooms  on  the 
left  of  the  entrance  contain  a  collection  of  objects  of  classical  art, 
one  of  the  most  considerable  now  existing.  The  first  room,  devoted 
to  sculpture,  has  in  the  center  the  portrait  head  of  a  Roman ;  on  the 
left,  youthful  Hermes ;  on  the  opposite  wall,  Torso  of  a  Goddess. 
(A  colossal  Cybele  and  a  Torso  of  Aphrodite  are  in  the  southern  cor- 
ridor.) The  room  beyond  is  devoted  to  the  Francis  Bartlett  collection, 
the  largest  gift  of  works  of  art  ever  received  by  the  Museum,  including 

a  head  of  Aphrodite 
of  delicate  beauty,  the 
torso  of  a  mounted 
Amazon,  a  superb  early 
Greek  bronze  basin, 
and  other  marbles, 
vases,  and  bronzes.  The 
room  on  the  court  con- 
tains terra  cottas, 
molds  for  making  pot- 
tery (ist  century  B.C.) 
from  Arezzo,  and  an- 
cient glass.  The  two 
well-carved  limestone  sarcophagi  are  Etruscan  (3d  century  B.C.  and 
later).  The  case  at  the  end  of  the  room,  devoted  to  modern  forgeries, 
well  repays  study.  In  the  room  beyond  are  objects  of  metal,  —  coins, 
jewelry,  and  gems,  —  including  a  bronze  bust  of  Arsinoe(?)  and  the 
famous  Marlborough  cameo.  The  collection  of  vases  in  the  hall  entered 
from  the  southern  corridor  to  the  left  is  one  of  the  fullest  in  the  world. 
The  rooms  on  the  court  to  the  right  of  the  entrance  hall  are  devoted  to 
Egyptian  art,  including  the  valuable  collection  of  mummies,  stelae,  jars, 
amulets,  scarabs,  etc.,  given  by  C.  Granville  Way  in  1872.  Beyond  are 
architectural  fragments  and  other  objects.  Many  of  the  recent  acquisi- 
tions in  this  department  are  stored  for  lack  of  exhibition  space.  The 
first  door  on  the  right  of  the  entrance  hall  leads  to  the  collection  of 
casts,  beginning  with  Egypt  and  continuing  in  chronological  sequence 
through  the  art  of  Greece  and  Rome.  The  room  entered  from  the  hall 
of  Greek  vases  contains  casts  of  sculpture  of  the  Italian  Renaissance. 
Many  casts  of  the  later  classical  and  Renaissance  periods  are  now  stored. 
On  the  second  floor,  in  the  stairway  hall,  are  tapestries  and  exam- 
ples of  modern  sculpture,  among  them  "  Ceres  "  and  "  The  Flight  of 


Museum  of  Fine  Arts 


MUSEUM   OF  FINE   ARTS  86 A 

Love,"  by  Rodin.  Opening  to  the  right  from  the  stairway  are  the  gal- 
leries of  pictures ;  those  of  the  prints  and  water  colors  are  in  the 
adjoining  rooms  on  the  court.  The.  first  gallery  contains  on  the  left 
specimens  of  Van  Dyck,  Rembrandt,  "  Danae  and  the  Shower  of  Gold  " 
(signed  and  dated  1652),  "An  Old  Man";  Frans  Hals,  Teniers  the 
younger,  and  De  Hoogh :  at  the  end,  Van  der  Weyden,  "  St.  Luke 
drawing  the  Portrait  of  the  Madonna";  Crivelli,  "  Pieta  "  (signed  and 
dated  1485);  Wohlgemuth,  "Death  of  the  Virgin":  on  the  right-hand 
wall,  Paul  Veronese,  "  Justice,"  and  Valasquez,  "  Don  Baltasar  Carlos 
and  his  Dwarf."  The  Allston  Room  contains  examples  of  the  early 
American  painters,  including  the  well-known  Athenaeum  heads  of 
Washington  and  Martha  Washington,  by  Gilbert  Stuart,  portraits  of 
other  notable  Americans,  and  several  large  canvases  by  Copley.  In 
the  third  gallery  are  works  of  English  artists,  including  Turner,  "  The 
Slave  Ship,"  and  specimens  of  Wilson,  Constable,  Sir  Thomas  Law- 
rence, and  others ;  also  a  portrait  by  Goya,  the  "  Chapeau  Blanc,"  by 
Greuze.  In  the  fourth  and  fifth  galleries  are  works  by  French  and 
American  artists,  including  several  examples  of  Degas,  Gerome,  "  L'fimi- 
nence  Grise,"  Delacroix,  "Pieta"  and  "Lion  Hunt";  also  examples 
of  Corot,  Diaz,  Dupre,  Brush,  Thayer,  Homer,  La  Farge,  and  others. 
Beyond,  in  the  corridor,  is  a  large  painting  of  "  Automedon  and  the 
Horses  of  Achilles,"  by  Regnault.  The  print  rooms  are  devoted  to 
temporary  exhibitions  of  selections  from  the  Museum  collection,  and 
of  loans.  In  the  water-color  room  are  examples  of  French,  English, 
and  American  artists,  among  them  W.  Blake,  illustrations  of  Comus 
and  of  Paradise  Lost,  and  Burne-Jones,  "Le  chant  d'amour." 

Returning  to  the  stairway  hall,  the  gallery  beyond  is  that  of  textiles. 
On  the  walls  are  tapestries  and  eight  decorative  panels  in  wood  (18th 
century,  French) ;  in  the  center  cases  Japanese  and  Chinese  dresses. 
The  room  beyond  is  devoted  to  ceramics.  In  case  46  is  an  exceptional 
collection  of  jade  and  a  Japanese  crystal  ball  said  to  be  the  largest  in 
existence.  Adjoining  the  textile  gallery  is  the  wood-carving  room,  with 
the  Buffum  collection  of  amber,  —  antique,  renaissance,  and  modern. 
The  Lawrence  room  adjoining  is  decorated  with  old  paneling  taken 
from  a  room  of  like  dimensions.  The  clock  near  the  doorway  was  in 
the  house  of  John  Hancock  when  governor  of  Massachusetts  in  1780. 
The  metal  room,  next,  contains  among  other  objects  fine  Chinese 
bronzes  (case  11).  The  coin  room  adjacent  contains  objects  in  the 
precious  metals,  including  silverware  by  Paul  Revere,  and  a  watch,  a 
gift  to  Queen  Charlotte  on  her  marriage  to  George  III.  The  collec- 
tion of  Chinese  and  Japanese  art,  occupying  the  next  room  and  the  cor- 
ridor (many  other  objects  being  stored  for  want  of  exhibition  space),  is 


86b  museum  of  fine  arts 

the  largest  and  finest  in  the  world.  In  the  Japanese  room  are  speci- 
mens of  metal  work,  ivory  and  wood  carving,  costumes,  and  lacquer,  the 
latter  being  especially  noteworthy.  The  Morse  collection  of  Japanese  pot- 
tery, in  transverse  cases  in  the  corridor  beyond,  gives  a  more  complete 
representation  of  the  fictile  art  of  Japan  than  all  other  existing  collec- 
tions combined.  The  architectural  and  decorative  carvings  in  wood 
along  the  corridor  are  new  to  occidental  eyes,  and  of  marked  interest 
and  beauty.  In  the  center  of  the  corridor  are  Chinese  and  Thibetan 
statues,  and  at  the  end  a  statue  of  Niorai  (12th  century),  a  remarkable 
monument  of  an  age  of  great  artistic  elevation.  The  collection  of 
prints  (a  selection  shown)  may  be  seen  on  application  to  the  curator. 

In  the  basement  of  the  building  is  the  library  and  photograph  collection 
(opan  to  all  visitors),  which  includes  books  and  photographs  chosen  with  reference 
to  the  needs  of  special  students  of  art  and  its  history  (10,000  books  and  pam- 
phlets and  about  17,000  photographs).  The  Museum  School  gives  instruction 
in  drawing  and  painting,  in  modeling  and  design,  with  supplementary  courses 
in  artistic  anatomy  and  perspective. 

The  first  suggestion  of  a  public  establishment  in  Boston  to  be  devoted  wholly 
to  the  fine  arts  was  the  result  of  a  wish  to  make  more  accessible  to  the  public 
several  collections  of  works  of  art  already  existing  in  the  Athenaeum,  at  Harvard 
College,  and  at  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology.  The  land  now  occu- 
pied by  the  Museum  building  was  the  gift  of  the  city,  but  apart  from  this  public 
gift,  the  Museum  has  been  wholly  dependent  upon  private  liberality  for  its  crea- 
tion and  maintenance.  The  erection  of  a  new  building  upon  a  lot  of  twelve 
acres  of  land  on  Huntington  Avenue  and  the  Fenway,  bought  in  1899,  is  actively 
in  progress.  The  Museum  is  managed  by  a  board  of  thirty  trustees,  of  whom 
three  are  appointed  by  Harvard  College,  three  by  the  Boston  Athenaeum,  and 
three  by  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology.  There  are  five  ex-officio 
members,  of  whom  three,  including  the  mayor,  represent  the  city  of  Boston. 
The  remainder  of  the  board  are  those  first  named  in  the  act  of  incorporation  and 
those  chosen  by  the  board  to  fill  vacancies  in  its  number.  The  president  of  the 
corporation  is  Gardiner  M.  Lane;  director  of  the  Museum,  Arthur  Fairbanks. 
The  Museum  is  open  free  on  Saturdays,  from  9  to  5 ;  free  on  Sundays,  from  12  to 
5 ;  and  free  on  public  holidays.  On  other  days  the  entrance  fee  is  twenty-five  cents. 

Trinity  Church  (Protestant  Episcopal)  is  one  of  the  richest  examples 
of  ecclesiastical  architecture  in  the  city.  It  was  the  crowning  work  of 
the  architect  H.  H.  Richardson  and  is  called  his  masterpiece.  Its 
style  as  defined  by  him  is  the  French  Romanesque,  as  freely  rendered 
in  the  pyramidal-towered  churches  of  Auvergne,  the  central  tower  pre- 
dominating. It  is  constructed  of  yellowish  granite,  with  brown  freestone 
trimmings.  The  elaborate  decorative  work  of  the  interior  is  by  John 
La  Farge.  The  chapel,  with  open  outside  stairway,  is  connected  with 
the  church  by  the  open  cloister,  and  here  are  placed  stones  from  the  old 
St.  Botolph  Church  in  Boston,  England,  presented  by  the  authorities 


TRINITY   CHURCH 


37 


of  that  church.  Trinity  Church  was  consecrated  in  1877.  Its  prede- 
cessor was  destroyed  in  the  fire  of   1872.      That    stood  on  Summer 

Street  at  the  corner 

of  Hawley  Street,  a 

Gothic    structure 

with    massive    stone 

walls    and    tower. 

Phillips   Brooks  was 

rector  of  Trinity  from 

1869   to    1 89 1,   when 

he  was  made  Bishop 

of   Massachusetts. 

The  Phillips  Brooks 

house   is    the   rectory 

of   the    church,   near 

by,  on  the  northeast 

corner  of  Clarendon 
and  New- 
bury streets. 
Trinity, 
founded    in 

1  7  2  8  '      l  S  Trinity  Church 

the     third 

Episcopal  church  established  in  Boston. 

The  New  Old  South  Church,  so  called  to  distinguish  it  from 
its  still  existing  predecessor,  the  Old 
South  Meetinghouse  (Congregational 
Trinitarian),  is  also  noteworthy  for  rich- 
ness of  design  and  ornamentation.  It  is 
in  the  North  Italian  Gothic  style,  and 
constructed  mainly  of  the  local  Rox- 
bury  stone.  The  great  tower  terminat- 
ing in  a  pyramidal  spire,  composed  of 
combinations  of  colored  stones,  rises 
two  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet. 
Delicate  carvings  ornament  the  facade. 
In  the  beautiful  arcade  between  the 
tower  and  the  south  transept  are 
inscribed  tablets.  One  bears  this 
inscription  :  "  Old  South  Church.  Preserved  and  blessed  of  God  for 
more  than  two  hundred  years  while  worshiping  on  its  original  site, 
corner  of  Washington  and  Milk  streets,  whence  it  was  removed  to  this 


New  Old  South  Church 


8S     MASSACHUSETTS  INSTITUTE  OF  TECHNOLOGY 

building  in  1875,  amid  constant  proofs  of  his  guidance  and  loving  favor. 
Qui  transtulit  sustinet."  Cummings  &  Sears  were  the  architects  of  this 
church. 

The  Second  Church  (Unitarian),  descendant  of  the  historic  Old 
North  Church  of  North  Square,  founded  in  1649,  *s  built  in  large  part 
from  the  stones  of  the  previous  meetinghouse  in  Bedford  Street,  now 
in  the  business  quarter,  which  was  taken  down  in  1872.  It  is  a  plain 
Gothic  exterior,  beautified  by  a  complete  mantle  of  ivy.  The  interior 
is  broad  and  lofty,  showing  the  open-timbered  roof.  Interesting  memo- 
rials of  former  pastors  of  distinction  are  here.  In  the  transept  at  the 
right   of  the  pulpit   is   a  bust  of  Ralph    Waldo y  Emerson  (minister  in 


-~-2>-i_  ..-■  ■   "*°~~ "~"  ~ 


Natural  History  Museum  and  Technology  Buildings 

1829-1832)  by  Sidney  H.  Morse.  On  the  other  side  of  the  transept  is 
a  portrait  of  John  Lathrop,  the  patriot  minister  of  the  Revolutionary 
period.     In  front  of  the  pulpit  is  Cotton  Mather's  pulpit  chair. 

The  two  main  buildings  of  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology 
(founded  by  Professor  William  B.  Rogers  as  a  school  of  applied  science, 
and  chartered  in  1861)  occupy,  together  with  the  Natural  History 
Museum,  the  entire  square  bounded  by  Boylston,  Berkeley,  Newbury, 
and  Clarendon  streets.  They  are  the  Rogers  Building,  dignified  in 
design,  with  high  portal  approached  by  a  noble  flight  of  broad  stone 
steps,  and  the  severely  plain  Walker  Building.  In  the  former  are  the 
administrative  offices  of  the  institution  and  the  departments  of  mining, 
mathematics,  drawing,  history,  economics,  and  English ;  in  the  latter, 
the  departments  of  physics  and  chemistry.  Other  buildings,  the  Henry 
L.  Pierce  and  Engineering  buildings,  in  which  are  the  departments  of 
civil  and  mechanical  engineering,  architecture,  naval  architecture,  biol- 
ogy, and  geology,  are  in  Trinity  Place  ;  the  Workshops  are  in  Garrison 
Street,  off    Huntington  Avenue ;    and  the    Gymnasium   is   on  Exeter 


NATURAL   HISTORY   MUSEUM  89 

Street.  The  several  buildings  comprise,  in  addition  to  drawing,  recita- 
tion, and  lecture  rooms,  eight  laboratories  or  groups  of  laboratories. 

In  the  Rogers  Building  is  Huntington  Hall,  in  which  the  Society  of  Arts, 
organized  with  the  institute  for  the  encouragement  of  practical  applica- 
tions of  the  sciences,  has  its  meetings.  Here,  also,  are  given  the  free 
lecture  courses  of  the  Lowell  Institute  (founded  in  1839  by  the  will  of 
John  Lowell,  Jr.).  The  Lowell  School  of  Practical  Design,  established 
by  the  trustees  of  the  Lowell  Institute  (1872)  for  the  promotion  of 
industrial  art  in  the  United  States,  is  maintained  by  the  Institute  of 
Technology  in  its  workshops.  In  the  rear  of  the  main  buildings,  on 
Newbury  Street,  is  the  Technology  Clubhouse. 

The  Natural  History  Museum,  sedate  and  elegant  in  style  and  finish, 
fronts  on  Berkeley  Street.  It  is  the  building  of  the  Boston  Society  of 
Natural  History,  founded  in  183 1.  It  was  erected  in  1864.  Over  the 
entrance  door  is  carved  the  society's  seal,  which  bears  the  head  of 
Cuvier.  On  the  keystones  of  the  windows  are  carved  heads  of  animals, 
and  a  sculptured  eagle  surmounts  the  pediment.  The  collections  in  the 
halls  and  galleries  of  this  museum  are  interesting  and  valuable,  and  are 
admirably  arranged.  Upon  entering,  in  the  first  hall  are  seen  the  intro- 
ductory synoptical  collection  and  sundry  important  geological  speci- 
mens. From  the  ceiling  of  the  main  hall  is  suspended  the  large 
skeleton  of  a  whale.  In  the  library,  which  contains  from  thirty  to 
forty  thousand  volumes,  much  consulted  by  students,  are  fine  mineral- 
ogical,  geological,  and  botanical  collections.  On  the  second  floor  is  a 
hall  filled  with  stuffed  animals,  geological,  physiological,  and  fossil  cases, 
and  skeletons  of  elephants  and  extinct  fauna.  Conspicuous  is  the  skele- 
ton of  a  gorilla.  In  the  galleries  here  are  New  England  tree  and  shrub 
and  other  botanical  specimens  ;  also  conchological  collections.  On 
the  third  and  fourth  floors  are  general  ornithological  and  ethnological 
collections,  with  the  magnificent  Lafresnaye  Collection  of  birds,  nests, 
and  eggs.  Lecture  halls  and  rooms  are  in  the  building,  in  which  instruc- 
tion is  given  to  classes  of  students.  The  museum  is  open  free  on  Wed- 
nesdays and  Saturdays,  and  on  Sunday  afternoons.  Other  days,  entrance 
fee,  twenty-five  cents. 

Below  Copley  Square,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Huntington  Avenue, 
are  other  institutions  of  note.  On  Exeter  Street,  two  blocks  north,  is 
the  Massachusetts  Normal  Art  School  (established  by  the  State  in  1873), 
and  on  opposite  corners  the  South  Congregational  Church,  of  which 
Edward  Everett  Hale  is  pastor  emeritus,  and  the  Boston  Spiritual 
Temple.  On  St.  Botolph  Street,  reached  from  Huntington  Avenue  by 
Garrison  Street,  is  the  Massachusetts  College  of  Pharmacy  (chartered 
1852).  On  the  same  street  is  Simmons  Hall,  the  dormitory  of  the 
Simmons  Female  College   (chartered   1899),   established  by  the  will  of 


9° 


SYMPHONY    HALL 


Chickering  Hall 


John  Simmons,   a   Boston   merchant,  to  furnish  instruction  in   "such 
branches  of  art,  science,  and  industry"  as  will  "best  enable  women  to 

earn  an  independent 
livelihood."  The  col- 
lege building  is  on  the 
Back  Bay  Fens  (see 
p.  in). 

Farther  down  on 
Huntington  Avenue 
is  the  Woman's  Club- 
house in  the  Twentieth 
Century  Building.  A 
few    steps    from    the 


avenue,  on  side  streets, 

is   the   great  stone 

Christian  Science 

Temple,  rising  to  the  lofty  height  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  topped 

by  a  magnificent  dome  ;  and  with  an  auditorium  of  five  thousand  sittings. 

This  church  has  a  melodious  chime  of  bells. 

About  the  Junction  of  Huntington  and  Massachusetts  Avenues.  In  this 
section  are  grouped  more  notable  buildings,  giving  it  a  special  distinc- 
tion. On  the  north  side  of  Huntington  Avenue,  near  the  junction,  is 
Chickering  Hall, 
with  ornamented 
facade.  Next,  at 
the  east  corner  of 
the  two  avenues,  is 
Horticultural  Hall, 
the  fine  building  of 
the  Massachusetts 
Horticultural  So- 
ciety (organized 
1829), in  which  great 
exhibitions  of  flow- 
ers and  fruits  are 
held  in  their  sea- 
sons. On  the  op- 
posit  e  corner  is 
Symphony  Hall,  successor  of  the  old  Music  Hall  as  a  "  temple  of 
music,"  where  the  concerts  of  the  Boston  Symphony  Orchestra  and 
the  oratorios  of  the  Handel  and  Haydn  Society  are  given. 

Farther  down  Huntington  Avenue,  on  the  corner  of  Gainsborough 
Street,    is    the   building   of   the    New  England    Conservatory  of   Music 


Horticultural  Hall 


MASSACHUSETTS   HISTORICAL  SOCIETY 


91 


Symphony  Hall 


(established  in  1867),  the  greatest  institution  of  its  kind  in  the  country, 
embracing  sixteen  separate  schools  and  training  students  in  every 
branch  of  the  art.  Opposite  this  are  the  buildings  of  the  New  Eng- 
land Children's  Hospital  (incorporated  in  1869).  Still  farther  out  is  the 
Tufts  College  Medical  and 
Dental  School. 

Through  Westland 
Avenue,  north  of  the 
junction  of  Huntington 
and  Massachusetts 
avenues,  we  may  reach 
the  Fens,  or  Back  Bay 
Park.  At  Hemenway 
Street  is  the  Westerii 
entrance,  with  the 
Memorial  Fountain,  in 
commemoration  of 
Ellen   C.    Johnson, 

superintendent  of  the  State  Reformatory  School  for  Women  at  Sher- 
born,  who  left  by  her  will  a  fund  for  the  erection  of  a  drinking  font  for 
animals  at  some  public  place  in  the  city. 

On  the  Fenway,  near  Boylston  Street,  is  the  handsome  house  of  the 
Boston  Medical  Library  (founded  in  1874),  ornamenting  the  street.  The 
principal  reading  room  is  Holmes  Hall,  named  for  Dr.  Oliver  Wendell 
Holmes  and  adorned  with  mementos  of  him.  His  own  valuable  med- 
ical library  is  preserved  in  the  general  collection  of  this  library,  the 

fourth  in  size  of  the 
medical  libraries  of  the 
country.  There  is  here 
the  Storer  collection  of 
medical  medals,  remark- 
able in  its  variety  and 
extent. 

At  the  comer  of  the 
Fenway  and  Boylston 
Street,  facing  the  latter,  is 
the  house  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  (founded  in  1791),  the 
oldest  historical  society  in  the  country,  and  probably  in  the  world.  This 
distinguished  building  was  designed  by  Wheelwright  &  Haven,  and 
was  erected  by  the  society  in  1897-1899.  It  contains  the  society's  rare 
library  of  forty-three  thousand  volumes,  enriched  with  historical  docu- 
ments and  manuscripts.     Over  the  entrance  to  the  Dowse  Library  are 


Westland  Ave 


£Jk 


92  THE   SOUTH  END 

the  crossed  swords  which  used  to  rest  above  the  library  of  William  H. 
Prescott,  and  to  which  Thackeray  alludes  in  the  opening  of  "  The  Vir- 
ginians." The  cabinet  museum  of  curios  contains  numerous  interesting 
objects,  among  them  the  wooden  Indian  which  topped  the  old  Province 
House  and  the  cannon  ball  which  struck  the  Brattle  Square  Church 
during  the  Siege.  The  model  of  the  historic  meetinghouse  is  in  the 
upper  hall.  The  museum  is  open  on  Wednesday  afternoons  only,  from 
2  to  5.  The  chief  function  of  this  society  is  to  publish,  and  it  has 
issued  infinitely  more  publications  than  any  other  historical  society 
in  this  country,  and  more  than  all  the  other  societies  combined,  the 
number  exceeding  one  hundred.  Charles  Francis  Adams  is  the  pres- 
ent president  of  the  society,  and  Dr.  Samuel  A.  Green  has  long  been 
'llMUfUllllBi  tne    librarian.      The    American    Academy   of 

Arts  and  Sciences  (founded  in  1780)  is  also 
established  in  this  building. 

In  the  Fens,  near  by,  is  the  monument  to 
John  Boyle  O'Reilly,  the  Irish  poet,  editor,  and 
athlete.  We  may  pass  along  the  Fens  north- 
ward by  a  circling  course  to  Charlesgate,  and 
finish  our  tour  in  the  newer  residential  part 
of  this  quarter,  with  its  broad  streets  and  fine 
John  Boyle  O'Reilly  dwellings,  locally  termed  the  "New  Back  Bay." 
Monument  Charlesgate    is    the   passage    through   which 

Muddy  River  empties  into  the  Charles  River. 
The  street  ways  on  either  side  are  called  Charlesgate  East  and  Charles- 
gate West.  Bay  State  Road,  making  off  from  Charlesgate  WTest  to  the 
riverside,  is  especially  noticeable  for  its  display  of  domestic  architecture. 
On  Charlesgate  East  and  Commonwealth  Avenue  is  the  sumptuous 
Hotel  Somerset. 

6.    The  South  End 

The  South  End  is  now  a  faded  quarter.  Like  the  Back  Bay  it  is 
composed  largely  of  "  made  land."  It  was  developed  from  the  narrow 
neck  connecting  the  old  town  with  Roxbury,  and  was  planned  and 
built  up  on  a  generous  scale  to  become  the  permanent  fashionable  part 
of  the  city.  Such  favor  it  was  enjoying  when  the  lavish  development 
of  the  Back  Bay  began,  and  fashion  was  not  long  in  turning  from  it  and 
moving  westward.  With  all  its  air  of  having-seen-better-days,  however, 
this  quarter  still  has  attractions.  Its  streets  are  broad,  some  are  shaded 
with  fine  trees  ;  numerous  small  parks  are  scattered  through  it ;  many  of 
the  houses  are  yet  substantial  dwellings,  with  a  look  of  roominess  within; 


BOSTON   CITY   HOSPITAL 


93 


and  various  important  institutions  are  established  within  its  borders. 
The  latter  most  interest  the  visitor. 

Among  the  most  noteworthy  of  these  institutions  are  the  Public  Latin 
and  English  High  Schools,  on  Warren  Avenue,  Dartmouth  and  Mont- 
gomery streets  ;  the  Girls'  High  School,  West  Newton  Street ;  the  Boston 
College  (Roman  Catholic,  founded  in  i860),  Harrison  Avenue  (No.  76T), 
near  East  Newton  Street ;  the  great  Boston  City  Hospital,  with  its  twenty- 
six  buildings  (a  group  of  nineteen  constituting  the  City  Hospital  proper, 
and  a  group  of  seven,  in  the  South  Department,  for  infectious  diseases), 
occupying  lands  bounded  by  Harrison  Avenue,  East  Concord  Street, 
Albany  Street,  and  Massachusetts  Avenue  ;  and  the  group  of  buildings 
of  the  Massachusetts 
Homeopathic  Hospital, 
with  the  School  of  Medi- 
cine (connected  with 
Boston  University),  on 
East  Concord  Street 
and  Harrison  Avenue. 

Of  the  churches  of 
the  quarter  the  stone 
Cathedral  of  the  Holy 
Cross  (Roman  Catho- 
lic), on  Washington 
Street,  at  the  corner  of 
Maiden  Street,  is  the 
greatest.  It  is  the 
largest  Catholic  church  in  New  England,  and  in  some  respects  the 
finest.  It  is  in  the  early  English  Gothic  style.  The  interior  is  richly 
designed  and  embellished.  The  arch  of  the  front  vestibule  is  con- 
structed of  bricks  from  the  ruins  of  the  Ursuline  Convent  on  Mount 
Benedict  (now  leveled)  in  Somerville,  which  was  burned  by  a  mob  on 
the  night  of  August  11,  1S34.  In  the  front  yard  of  the  edifice  is  the 
bronze  statue  of  Columbus,  by  Alois  Buyens  (a  replica  of  the  San 
Domingo  monument),  erected  in  1892.  In  the  grounds  at  the  rear, 
on  the  corner  of  Union  Park  Street  and  Harrison  Avenue,  is  the  arch- 
bishop's house,  in  which  are  the  chief  offices  of  the  archdiocese. 
Another  South  End  Catholic  church  of  note  is  the  Church  of  the 
Immaculate  Conception,  on  Harrison  Avenue  and  East  Concord  Street 
(by  the  side  of  Boston  College).  The  interior  of  this  church  is  also 
rich  in  ornamentation. 

Of  the  older  Protestant  churches  several  have  become  "  institutional 
churches,"  with  numerous  helpful  activities.     Such  are  the  Berkeley 


A  Typical  Children's  Playground 


94  EAST  BOSTON 

Temple,  on  Berkeley  near  Tremont  Street,  in  association  with  the  Union 
Church  on  Columbus  Avenue  and  West  Newton  Street ;  the  Shawmut 
Church,  on  Tremont  Street ;  and  the  Warren  Avenue  Baptist  Church,  on 
Warren  Avenue  and  West  Canton  Street.  The  Denison  House  (College 
Settlement)  is  at  93  Tyler  Street,  and  the  South  End  House  at  20  Union 
Park  Street.  Among  the  churches  still  retaining  the  old  parish  methods 
are  the  Second  Universalist  Church,  on  Columbus  Avenue  ;  the  First 
Presbyterian  Church,  on  Columbus  Avenue  ;  the  Clarendon  Street  Bap- 
tist Church,  at  the  junction  of  Clarendon  and  Tremont  streets;  and  the 
Tremont  Street  Methodist  Church,  on  the  corner  of  Tremont  and  Con- 
cord streets. 

Washington  and  Tremont  streets  and  Shawmut  and  Columbus  ave- 
nues are  the  great  thoroughfares  generally  north  and  south  through  this 
quarter.  Columbus  Avenue  opens  at  Park  Square  (from  Boylston  Street 
opposite  the  Common).  In  the  square  is  the  Emancipation  Group,  com- 
memorating the  emancipation  of  the  slaves  by  President  Lincoln,  an 
interesting  piece  of  statuary  by  Thomas  Ball.  It  was  a  gift  to  the  city 
by  Moses  Kimball,  long  the  owner  of  the  old  Boston  Museum,  and 
was  erected  in  1879. 


7.    The  Outlying  Districts 

East  Boston  on  its  islands  is  a  place  of  steamship  docks  and  of  great 
manufactories.  In  the  days  of  wooden  ships  it  was  a  center  of  ship- 
yards, whence  fine  craft  were  launched.  Here  were  built  splendid 
clipper  ships  for  the  California  service  in  the  gold-digging  days.     Now 


Castle  Island,  Marine  Park 

its  attractions  for  the  visitor  are  slight,  although  several  of  its  hill  streets 
are  pleasant,  and  wide  harbor  views  open  from  various  points.  Belmont 
Square,  on  Camp  Hill,  marks  the  site  of  the  fort  erected  in  the  Revolu- 
tionary period,  and  perhaps  also  the  site  of  the  fortified  house  of  Samuel 
Maverick,  the  earliest  white  settler,  in  1630.  Wood  Island  Park,  of  the 
Metropolitan  Parks  System,  lies  on  the  harbor  or  south  side  of  the  main 
island. 


MARINE   PARK 


95 


South  Boston  has  also  become  a  great  industrial  center  and  a  place  of 
shipping  docks.     Its  points  of  popular  interest  to-day  consist  of  the 
remnant    of   Dorchester   Heights,  —  Telegraph    Hill,  —  upon    which    is 
the  monument  "  perpetuating  the    erection  of  American  fortifications 
that   forced    the    British    to 
evacuate  Boston,  March  17, 
1776";    the  Perkins  Institu- 
tion for  the  Blind,  the  benefi- 
cent  institution  founded  by 
Dr.  Samuel  G.  Howe  in  1S29 ; 
and  the  beautiful  water-front 
esplanade,  the  Marine  Park, 
of  the  Boston  Public  Parks 
System.      These    are    all  at 
the  east   end  of  the  district 
locally  known    as   "The 
Point";    South   Boston  cars 
marked  "  City  Point  "   reach 
them  all.    In  the  Marine  Park 
is  the  admirable  statue  of 
Farragut,  in  bronze,  by  H.  H.  Kitson 
Point  is  a  favorite  yachting  station,  and  several  yacht  clubhouses  are 
situated  here.     In  the  lower  part  of  the  district  the  Lawrence  school- 
house  on  West  Third  Street  marks  the  site  of  Nook  Hill,  the  historic 
interest  of  which  is  disclosed  in  the  inscription  on  a  tablet  here. 

The  Roxbury  District  also  has  interesting  landmarks  of  the  Revolu- 
tion.    These  are  the  Roxbury  forts,  near  Highland  Street,  in  the  neigh- 

—  - .-,-—.    borhood  of  Eliot  Square,  with  its  century - 

*  J  old  meetinghouse  of  the  "First  Religious 
Society  in  Roxbury"  (dating  from  1632), 
on  the  site  of  the  first  rude  structure  in 
which  John  Eliot  preached  for  more  than 
forty  years.  Roxbury  Upper  Fort  is 
marked  by  the  lofty  ornate  white  water 
pipe,  on  the  hill  of  Highland  Park,  between 
Beach  Glen  and  Fort  avenues.  The  lines 
of  the  fort  are  indicated,  and  it  is  fittingly 
marked  by  a  tablet.  The  site  of  the  Lower  Fort,  a  short  distance 
northward,  is  pointed  out  in  the  yard  of  a  dwelling  on  Highland  Street. 
These  forts,  built  by  General  Harry  Knox,  under  the  direction  of  Gen- 
eral Thomas,  crowned  the  Roxbury  lines  of  investment  during  the  Siege 
of  Boston.     Highland  Street,  which  leads  from  Eliot  Square,  is  most 


Head  House,  Marine  Park 


This  was  erected  in  1893.    The 


Tablet  at  "Nook  Hill 


96 


ROXBURY   DISTRICT 


interesting  as  the  home  of  Edward  Everett  Hale,  in  a  broad,  roomy,  old- 
time  house  (No.  39).  On  this  street  also  was  "  Rockledge,"  the  home 
of  William  Lloyd  Garrison  through  his  later  years.  On  Warren  Street, 
not  far  from  the  Dudley  Street  terminal  of  the  elevated  railway,  is  the 
site  of  the  birthplace  of  General  Joseph  Warren,  now  covered  by  a  stone 
house  built  in  1846  by  Dr.  John  Collins  Warren,  a  tablet  on  its  face 
informing  us,  "as  a  permanent  memorial  of  the  spot."  Near  by,  on 
Kearsarge  Avenue,  was  the  home  of  Rear  Admiral  John  A.  Winslow  of 
the  Kearsarge  which  destroyed  the  Alabama  in  the  Civil  War.  Here 
also  is  the  Roxbury  Latin  School,  only  ten  years  the  junior  of  the 
Boston  Latin  School,  having  been  established  in  1645.     Of  this  school 

Warren  was  a  master 
when  he  was  but  nine- 
teen years  old.  Near  the 
old  Boston  line,  at  the 
corner  of  Washington 
and  Eustis  streets,  is 
the  ancient  burying 
ground  in  which  are  the 
tombs  of  John  Eliot  and 
of  the  Dudleys,  —  Gov- 
ernor Thomas  Dudley 
(died  1653),  Governor 
Joseph  Dudley  (1720), 
Chief  Justice  Dudley 
(1752),  and  Colonel 
William  Dudley  (1743). 
In  the  western  part  of 
this  district  is  Franklin  Park,  the  largest  single  park  in  the  Boston  City 
Parks  System. 

The  West  Roxbury  District  contains  memorials  of  Theodore  Parker, 
and  embraces  "  Brook  Farm,"  the  place  of  the  experiment  in  socialism 
by  the  Brook  Farm  Community  of  literary  folk  in  1841-1847,  and  the 
scene  of  Hawthorne's  "  Blithedale  Romance."  The  old  First  Parish 
meetinghouse  with  its  Wren  tower,  locally  known  as  the  Theodore 
Parker  Church  from  Parker's  nine  years'  ministry  here,  is  still  standing, 
though  unused  and  dismantled.  It  is  on  Centre  Street,  close  by  the 
Belle vue  station  of  the  railroad  (Dedham  Branch).  Electric  cars  from 
Forest  Hills  pass  its  neighborhood.  In  front  of  its  successor,  a  little 
farther  up  Centre  Street,  is  a  fine  bronze  statue  of  Parker.  Farther 
along  this  main  street,  at  the  corner  of  Cottage  Avenue,  Parker's  resi- 
dence also  remains,  —  now  occupied  as  the  parish  house  of  a  neighboring 


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Path  in  the  Wilderness,  Franklin  Park 


DORCHESTER  DISTRICT  97 

Catholic  church.  Brook  Farm  is  but  little  changed  in  its  outward 
aspect.  It  lies  about  a  mile  distant  from  Spring  Street  station  on 
the  railroad  (by  way  of  Baker  Street).  The  Stony  Brook  Reservation  of 
the  Metropolitan  Parks  System  is  in  this  district.  Forest  Hills  Cemetery, 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  modern  burying  grounds,  is  in  another  part 
of  the  district,  close  by  the  terminus  of  the  Forest  Hills  lines  of  electrics 
and  the  Forest  Hills  station  of  the  railroad.  Here  are  the  graves  or 
tombs  of  General  Joseph  Warren,  Rear  Admirals  Winslow  and  Thacher, 
William  Lloyd  Garrison,  John  Gilbert,  the  actor,  Martin  Milmore,  the 
sculptor,  and  many  others  of  distinction.  At  Milmore's  grave  is  the  monu- 
ment representing  the  Angel  of  Death  staying  the  hand  of  the  sculptor, 
an  exceptionally  fine  piece  of  sculpture  by  Daniel  C.  French.  Jamaica 
Plain,  in  which  are  the  Arnold  Arboretum  and  Olmsted  Park  of  the  Boston 
City  Parks  System,  is  a  part  of  this  district. 

The  Dorchester  District  is  now  essentially  a  place  of  homes.  It 
embraces  a  series  of  hills,  several  of  them  commanding  pleasant  water 
views.  Meetinghouse  Hill,  in  the  southern  part,  is  crowned  with  a  fine 
example  of  the  New  England  meetinghouse  of  the  early  nineteenth 
century,  in  direct  descent  from  the  first  meetinghouse  of  163 1.  At 
Upham's  Corner,  on  Dudley  Street  and  Columbia  Road,  is  the 
ancient  burying  ground,  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  the  country. 
Among  the  distinguished  tombs  here  are  those  of  Lieutenant  Governor 
William  Stoughton,  chief  justice  of  the  court  before  which  the  witch- 
craft trials  at  Salem  were  held,  and  Richard  Mather,  the  founder  of  the 
Mather  family  in  New  England.  Many  of  the  inscriptions  on  the  stones 
are  quaint,  and  there  are  a  number  of  imposing  tablets. 

The  Brighton  District  was  once  the  great  cattle  mart  of  New  Eng- 
land, and  famous  also  for  its  extensive  market  gardens  and  nurseries. 
A  few  of  the  latter  remain,  but  the  district  is  mainly  a  residential  sec- 
tion so  closely  associated  with  newer  Boston  as  to  be  a  component 
part  of  it. 


98 


CAMBRIDGE 


II.    THE   METROPOLITAN    REGION 

The  thirty-six  cities  and  towns  comprising  with  modern  Boston  the 
Metropolitan  District  (see  Plate  V),  all  lying  in  the  "Boston  Basin" 
[see  p.  3],  or  touched  by  a  circle  with  a  radius  of  ten  miles  from  the 
State  House,  are: 

Cities  —  Cambridge,  Chelsea,  Everett,  Lynn,  Maiden,  Medford,  Mel- 
rose, Newton,  Quincy,  Somerville,  Waltham,  and  Woburn. 

Towns  —  Arlington,  Belmont,  Braintree,  Brookline,  Canton,  Dedham, 
Hull,  Hyde  Park,  Milton,  Nahant,  Lexington,  Needham,  Reading, 
Revere,  Saugus,  Stoneham,  Swampscott,  Wakefield,  Watertown,  Welles- 
ley,  Weston,  Weymouth,  Winchester,  and  Winthrop. 

All  of  these  places,  with  the  exception  of  Hull  and  Nahant,  are 
within  the  suburban  districts  of  the  railroads  terminating  in  Boston, 
with  frequent  train  service,  and  are  embraced  in  the  electric-railway 
system. 

CAMBRIDGE   AND  HARVARD 


Harvard  Square  is  our  destination,  and  it  is  barely  a  half  hour's 
ride  by  electric  car  taken  in  the  Subway  at  Park  Street  station,  or  at 
Copley  Square  (Boylston  Street),  or  further  out  on  Massachusetts 
Avenue ;  or  by  an  electric  car  taken  at  Bowdoin  Square.     Let  us  agree 

to  go  by  the  latter 
route,  purposing  to 
return  by  the  former, 
and  not  forgetting,  ere 
we  board  the  car  in 
Bowdoin  Square,  to 
glance  at  the  venerable 
Revere  House,  and 
especially  at  the  little 
iron-railed  balcony  from 
which  Daniel  Webster 
delivered  many  a 
famous  speech.  We  soon  reach  Charles  Street,  with  the  County  Jail 
frowning  on  the  right,  and  cross  Charles  River  by  the  new  and  massive 
West  Boston  Bridge,  completed  in  1907. 

The  river  crossed,  we  find  ourselves  in  busy  Cambridgeport  so  called, 
amid  factories  and  workshops,  notably  the  great  Athenaeum  Press  of 
Ginn  &   Company,  near  the   river.     A  mile    or   so   beyond   we   pass 


Athen.^um  Press 
First  Street,  near  West  Boston  Bridge 


HARVARD   UNIVERSITY 


99 


City  Hall 


Cherry  Street ;  and  on  Cherry  Street  (at  the  corner  of  Eaton  Street) 
still  stands  the  house  in  which  Margaret  Fuller  was  born.  A  little  farther 
on  at  the  left  is  Magazine  Street,  where,  at  the  corner  of  Auburn  Street 
Washington  Allston  once  lived. 
Nearby  on  the  right  one  observes 
a  fine  building  of  reddish  granite 
with  brownstone  trimmings  and  a 
clock  tower.  This  is  City  Hall, 
the  gift  of  Frederick  H.  Rindge. 
The  architects  were  Longfellow, 
Alden  &  Harlow.  A  short 
distance  back  of  the  City  Hall 
may  be  seen  a  tablet  which  marks 
the  spot  where  General  Israel  Put- 
nam had  his  headquarters  during 
the  Siege  of  Boston.  Other  city 
institutions  may  be  seen  by  leav- 
ing the  car  at  Trowbridge  Street, 
at  the  end  of  which  will  be  found  the  Public  Library  (by  Ware  and  Van 
Brunt,  1889)  and  the  Manual  Training  School  (by  Rotch  and  Tilden). 

These  buildings 
also  were  the  gift 
of  Mr.  Rindge. 
Close  by  are  the 
Latin  School  and 
the  English  High 
School. 

Let  us  suppose, 
however,  that, 
with  our  minds 
fixed  on  the  Har- 
vard University, 
we  remain  in  the 
car  until,  round- 
ing a  corner,  we 
come  upon  a  large 
Baptist  church  of 
slatestone.  This 
has  no  connec- 


Grounds  of  Harvard  University 


tion  with  the  university,  but  it  stands  in  strange  contiguity  with  Beck 
Hall,  one  of  the  most  costly  and  luxurious  of  Harvard  dormitories,  — ■ 
not  the  property  of  the  college.     Alighting  here,  we  find  ourselves  at 


HARVARD  UNIVERSITY 


once  on  sacred  ground.  In  front  of  us,  and  to  the  left,  is  the  "  Yard." 
To  the  right  and  separated  from  the  yard  by  Quincy  Street  is  the  new 
Harvard  Union,  erected  1901,  of  which  Henry  L.  Higginson  and  the  late 
Henry  Warren  were  the  chief  donors.  McKim,  Mead  &  White  were  the 
architects.  It  contains  offices  for  the  college  papers,  billiard  rooms, 
a  restaurant,  a  good  library,  and  a  large  assembly  room.  It  is  a  sort 
of  home  or  meeting  ground  for  graduates  and  undergraduates.  Just 
beyond  is  the  Colonial  Club,  where  may  be  found  the  quintessence  of 
Cambridge,  the  literary  and  academic  elite.  These  buildings  are  on  the 
right  of  Quincy  Street.     Upon  the  opposite  side  of  the  street,  the  first 

house,  on  the  corner  and 
within  the  Yard,  was  for- 
merly the  Harvard  Observa- 
tory. Afterward  it  was  the 
home  of  President  Felton, 
and  later  of  the  venerated 
Professor  A.  P.  Peabody. 
The  boundary  wall  of  the 
yard  in  front  of  this  build- 
ing, built  in  1 90 1,  was  given 
by  the  class  of  1880.  The 
brick  house  next  beyond  it 
is  the  residence  of  President 
Eliot,  and  beyond  that  is  the 
house  long  occupied  by  Professor  Shaler.  Next  stands  the  newly 
erected  Emerson  Hall  in  memory  of  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson. 

Let  us  now  retrace  our  steps  and,  turning  the  corner  by  the  sometime 
observatory,  we  come  first  to  a  gate  given  by  Mrs.  Wirt  Dexter  to  com- 
memorate her  son,  Samuel  Dexter,  a  member  of  the  class  of  1890,  who 
died  in  1894.  Next  is  the  gate  erected  by  the  class  of  1877,  and 
entering  here  we  find  ourselves  in  front  of  the  Library,  or  Gore  Hall. 
The  original  building  was  the  gift  of  Christopher  Gore,  a  leading 
lawyer  and  governor  of  Massachusetts.  Enlargements  of  modern  date 
have  increased  its  usefulness,  if  not  its  beauty.  The  library  contains 
400,200  bound  volumes,  and  this  number  is  swelled  by  outlying  collec- 
tions in  various  departments  of  the  university  to  607,100,  —  to  say 
nothing  of  pamphlets.  For  students  who  feel  unequal  to  mastering 
the  library  as  a  whole,  a  small  lot  of  22,500  volumes  is  provided 
on  the  easily  accessible  shelves  of  the  reading  room.  Among  the 
valuable  private  collections  that  have  been  contributed  to  the  library 
are  Parkman's  books,  George  Ticknor's  collection  of  Dante  literature, 
and  Carlyle's  collection  of  books  relating  to  Cromwell  and  Frederick 


Harvard  Main  Gate 


HARVARD   UNIVERSITY  ioi 

the  Great.  Emerging  from  the  library  and  skirting  the  yard  to  the 
right,  we  come  first  to  Sever  Hall,  a  recitation  building,  simple,  sub- 
stantial, and  dignified,  the  work  of  the  late  H.  H.  Richardson.  It  was 
built  in  1880  from  a  fund  given  by  Mrs.  Anne  E.  P.  Sever.  To  the  left 
is  the  college  chapel,  called  Appleton  Chapel,  a  building  of  light  stone 
erected  in  1858,  the  gift  of  Samuel  Appleton.  Beyond  it  and  facing  on 
Cambridge  Street  is  a  neat  building  of  stone,  almost  white,  brought 
from  Indiana.  This  is  the  William  Hayes  Fogg  Art  Museum,  erected 
in  1895,  and  given  by  Mrs.  Elizabeth  Fogg.  It  contains  a  large  collection 
of  casts,  statues,  engravings,  coins,  etc.,  but  leaves  something  to  be 
desired  in  point  of  beauty.  Turning  sharply  to  the  left  and  continuing 
to  skirt  the  yard,  we  find  at  the  bend  in  the  road  the  Phillips  Brooks 
House,  designed  by  A.  W.  Longfellow.  It  is  the  center  of  the  religious 
life  of  the  university.  In  this  vicinity  are  two  gates,  one  given  by  the 
class  of  1876  and  one  by  the  class  of  1886. 

Leaving  this  house  behind  us  and  turning  our  steps  toward  the  center 
of  the  Yard,  we  come  first  to  Holworthy,  which  was  erected  in  18 12 
from  money  obtained  by  a  lottery.  Back  of  Holworthy,  by  the  way, 
is  a  gate  given  by  George  Von  L.  Meyer,  our  ambassador  to  Italy. 
Holworthy,  from  its  slightly  elevated  site  at  the  head  of  the  yard, 
occupies  a  commanding  position,  and  has  always  been  a  favorite  build- 
ing. It  was  the  first  dormitory  that  made  any  pretense  to  luxury,  for 
it  is  arranged  in  suites  of  three  rooms  for  "  chums,"  —  a  study  in  front 
and  two  bedrooms  in  the  rear  of  the  building.  Class-Day  spreads  and 
Commencement  punches  always  found  in  Holworthy  their  fittest  home. 
In  front  of  Holworthy  the  Glee  Club  sings,  and  noted  men  gather  in 
groups.  Standing  here  we  obtain  the  best  view  of  the  beautiful  Yard, 
with  its  great  elms,  its  shadows,  its  splashes  of  sunshine  on  the  turf ; 
or,  of  a  Class-Day  night,  its  festoons  of  Japanese  lanterns  swaying  from 
tree  to  tree.  Who  can  number  the  romances  that  have  been  transacted 
or  begun  in  the  deeply  recessed  window  seats,  in  the  somber,  academic, 
almost  monastic  shades  of  Holworthy  Hall !  Time  presses,  however, 
and  we  must  glance  at  the  other  buildings  in  the  Quadrangle. 

Turning  to  the  right  or  westerly  side  of  the  Yard,  we  come  first  to 
Stoughton,  a  dormitory  built  in  1805.  In  its  rear,  or  nearly  so,  is  Holden 
Chapel,  the  gift  (1744)  of  Madam  Holden  of  London,  and  once  the 
college  chapel.  It  is  now  used  for  society  meetings.  Just  south  of 
Holden  Chapel  is  a  gate  given  by  the  class  of  1873,  ano^  noi'th  of  that 
a  gate  and  sundial  erected  by  the  class  of  1870.  Next  comes  Hollis 
Hall,  also  a  dormitory,  which  dates  back  to  1763  and  was  the  gift  of 
Thomas  Hollis  of  London.  Three  generations  of  that  family  were 
benefactors  of  the  college.      This  building  was  used  as  barracks  by 


102 


HARVARD   UNIVERSITY 


the  American  soldiers  in  the  Revolution  at  the  time  when  the  college 
was  temporarily  removed  to  Concord.  Next  to  Hollis  is  Harvard  Hall, 
a  building  which  replaced  an   earlier  Harvard   Hall  burned  in   1764. 

The  present  building 
was  also  used  as  bar- 
racks in  the  Revolu- 
tionary War.  It  now 
holds  some  special 
libraries.  There  is  a 
cupola  on  Harvard 
Hall  containing  a  bell 
which  rings  for  prayers 
and  recitations.  The 
space  between  the  cor- 
ners of  the  two  build- 
ings, Harvard  and 
a  tradition  that  once  a 
heard  the  janitor  mount- 


Harvard  Gate,  Class  of  1877 


Hollis,  is  only  five  or  six  feet,  and  there  is 

student,  trying  to  steal  the  tongue  of  the  bell, 

ing  the  cupola,  and  running  down  the  steep  roof  of  Harvard,. jumped 

across  the  gap  and  landed  safely  on  the  roof  of  Hollis,  whence  he 

escaped. 

Next  in  order  comes  Massachusetts,  but  between  Massachusetts  Hall 
and  Harvard  Hall  is  the  principal  entrance  from  the  street  to  the 
college  yard,  through  the  beautiful  Johnston  gateway,  designed  by 
Charles  F.  McKim.  This  is  inscribed  with  the  orders  of  the  General 
Court  relating  to  the  establishment  of  the  college  in  1636-1639  and 
this  extract : 

After  God  had  carried  vs  safe  to  New  England 

and  wee  had  bvilded  ovr  hovses 

provided  necessaries  for  ovr  liveli  hood 

reard  convenient  places  for  Gods  worship 

and   setled   the  civill  government 

one  of  the  next  things  we  longed  for 

and  looked  after  was  to  advance  learning 

and  perpetvate  it  to  posterity 

dreading  to  leave  an  illiterate  ministery 

to  the  churches  when  our  present  ministers 

shall  die  in  the  dvst 

New  Englands  First  Fruits. 

Massachusetts  Hall,  the  oldest  of  the  college  buildings,  was  a  gift  to 
the  college  by  the  Province  in  1720.  This  hall  also  was  occupied  by 
troops  during  the  Revolution.     Afterward  it  became  a  dormitory  again, 


HARVARD  UNIVERSITY  103 

later  a  lecture  room,  and  it  is  now  used  for  meetings  and  public  pur- 
poses. Beyond  Massachusetts,  in  our  tour  of  the  Quadrangle,  comes 
Matthews  Hall,  a  dormitory  erected  in  1872  through  the  generosity  of 
Nathan  Matthews  of  Boston.  This  hall  is  said  to  stand  on  the  site  of 
the  old  Indian  College,  which  was  built  in  1654  and  in  which  several 
Indian  youths  struggled  with  the  classics.  One  of  them,  Caleb  Chee- 
shahteaumuck,  took  a  degree  and  died.  Just  beyond  Matthews  Hall,  and 
facing  on  the  square,  is  Dane  Hall.  This  was  formerly  the  Law  School, 
but  is  now  occupied  by  the  Btirsar^s  office,  lecture  rooms,  and  a 
psychological  laboratory.  We  come  next  to  Grays  Hall,  a  modern 
dormitory  which  faces  Holworthy  Hall,  at  the  south  end  of  the  yard. 
It  was  the  gift  (1863)  of  Francis  C.  Gray  of  Boston,  and  its  site  is 
probably  that  of  the  first  college  building.  Back  of  Grays  Hall,  and 
close  to  the  street,  is  an  ancient  wooden  building,  yet  of  dignified 
aspect,  called  Wadsworth  House.  This  house  was  built  in  1726,  jointly 
by  the  Colony  and  by  the  college,  as  a  residence  for  the  presidents  of 
the  institution.  It  was  Washington's  headquarters  until,  as  we  shall 
presently  see,  he  removed  to  the  Longfellow  house  on  Brattle  Street. 
The  speaker  of  the  Massachusetts  House  of  Representatives,  1 900-1 903, 
James  J.  Myers,  who  after  his  graduation  at  Harvard  became  a  tutor 
and  proctor,  took  up  his  residence  in  Wadsworth  House  at  that  time, 
and,  with  rare  fidelity,  has  remained  there  ever  since.  Returning  now 
to  the  Quadrangle,  the  substantial  granite  building  standing  a  little 
back  and  near  the  street  is  Boylston  Hall,  built  in  1857  from  money 
bequeathed  by  Ward  Nicholas  Boylston,  whose  picture,  in  flowered- 
silk  dressing  gown  and  cap,  lights  up  Memorial  Hall.  Boylston  Hall 
is  devoted  to  chemistry.  Next  in  order,  and  facing  Matthews  Hall,  is 
Weld  Hall,  a  dormitory  given  to  the  college  in  1872  by  William  F.  Weld. 
Beyond  that  is  a  simple,  graceful,  and  dignified  building  of  white  granite, 
built  in  18 1 5  from  a  design  by  Bulfinch.  It  is  called  University  Hall, 
and  for  many  years  was  the  main  recitation  building.  It  is  now  used 
as  an  office  building.  University  Hall  and  Sever  Hall  might  perhaps 
be  described  as  the  two  buildings  in  the  yard  which  are  beautiful  in 
themselves,  apart  frcm  any  association.  Beyond  University,  standing 
at  right  angles  with  Holworthy,  is  Thayer  Hall,  a  dormitory  given  to 
the  college  in  1870  by  Nathaniel  Thayer. 

Passing  out  of  the  Quadrangle  and  continuing  to  Cambridge  Street, 
which  bounds  the  yard  on  the  north,  we  have  within  view  many  build- 
ings, mostly  of  recent  construction,  belonging  to  the  university.  Oppo- 
site the  Phillips  Brooks  House,  on  the  other  side  of  the  street,  is  the 
Hemenway  Gymnasium,  given  by  Augustus  Hemenway  in  1878.  To 
the  right  is  the  Lawrence  Scientific  School  building,  given  by  Abbott 


104  HARVARD   UNIVERSITY 

Lawrence  in  1847,  and  reenforced  in  1884  by  a  building  in  Holmes's 
Field  just  beyond,  erected  by  T.  Jefferson  Coolidge  of  Boston.  In  this 
last  building  the  visitor  may  behold  an  electric  machine  given  to  the 
college  by  Benjamin  Franklin,  and  a  telescope  used  by  Professor  John 
Winthrop.  Immediately  in  front  of  us  is  a  triangular-shaped  piece  of 
ground  called  the  Delta,  formerly  the  college  playground,  until  Memo- 
rial Hall,  designed  by  Ware  and  Van  Brunt,  was  built  there  in  the 
seventies.  The  statue  in  the  Delta  is  an  ideal  statue  of  John  Harvard, 
whose  bequest  of  his  library  to  the  college  in  1636  was  really  its  start- 
ing point.  It  is  the  work  of  Daniel  C.  French,  and  the  gift  of  Samuel 
J.  Bridge.  The  exterior  of  Memorial  Hall  may  perhaps  strike  the  visitor 
as  lacking  unity  and  simplicity,  but  the  interior  will  not  disappoint  him. 
Memorial  Hall  proper,  where  are  inscribed  the  names  of  those  Harvard 
graduates  who  died  in  the  Civil  War,  is  noble  and  impressive ;  and  the 
great  dining  hall,  which  occupies  the  whole  western  end  of  the  building, 
with  room  for  over  a  thousand  students,  which  is  paneled  with  oak, 
beautified  by  memorial  stained-glass  windows,  and  filled  with  pictures 
and  busts,  all  of  which  have  an  historic  and  some  of  which  have  an 
artistic  interest,  is  probably  unique  in  this  country. 

If,  before  entering  Memorial  Hall  (and  Sanders  Theatre),  we  turn  to 
the  right  on  leaving  the  college  yard,  we  shall  come  first  to  Robinson 
Hall,  at  the  corner  of  Quincy  Street  and  Broadway,  the  architectural 
building,  containing  many  casts  and  engravings.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  Broadway,  in  the  "  Little  Delta,"  is  the  old  gymnasium,  built 
in  1858,  now  occupied  by  the  Germanic  Museum. 

Of  the  many  other  buildings  belonging  to  the  university  in  this  neigh- 
borhood only  a  few  can  be  mentioned.  Randall  Hall,  at  the  corner  of 
Divinity  Avenue,  with  a  dining  room  that  seats  five  hundred,  is  a  good 
piece  of  architecture,  constructed  by  Wheelwright  &  Haven.  Beyond 
are  the  Semitic  Museum;  Divinity  Hall,  an  unsectarian  theological  school; 
the  University  Museum,  comprising  the  Museum  of  Comparative  Zoology, 
the  Botanical  Museum,  the  Mineralogical  Museum,  the  Geological  Museum, 
and  the  Peabody  Museum,  founded  in  1866  by  George  Peabody,  the 
American  banker  of  London.  All  of  these  are  open  to  visitors,  and  all 
contain  something  to  interest  even  the  unscientific  person. 

Returning  to  the  vicinity  of  the  yard,  mention  should  be  made  of 
the  Law  School  building,  near  the  Hemenway  Gymnasium,  as  this 
harbors  one  of  the  strongest  departments  of  the  university.  The 
Harvard  Law  School  has  not  only  a  national  but  an  international  repu- 
tation, and  it  has  been  described  by  an  English  jurist  as  superior  to  any 
other  school  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  The  building  was  designed  by 
H.  H.  Richardson,  the  architect  of  Seaver  Hall,  to  which,  however,  it  is 


WASHINGTON    ELM 


scarcely  equal.    The  library  contains  forty-four  thousand  volumes.    Near 
this  hall  once  stood  the  yellow  gambrel-roofed  house  in  which  Dr.  Oliver 


Cambridge 

Wendell  Holmes  was  born.  It  was  removed  about  twenty  years  ago. 
The  statue  of  Charles  Sumner,  by  Miss  Anne  Whitney,  is  in  the  triangular 
plot  of  ground  near  by. 
Leaving  the  univer- 
sity buildings  we  cross 
the  Cambridge  Com- 
mon to  the  west  of  the 
yard,  formerly,  by  the 
way,  a  place  of  execu- 
tion, and  once  the 
scene  of  an  open-air 
sermon  by  Whitefield. 
Here  is  a  bronze 
statue  of  John  Bridge, 
the  Puritan,  in  the  garb 
of  his  time,  an  excellent 
piece  of  sculpture  by 
Thomas  R.  Gould  and 
his  son,   Marshall   S. 

Gould.  In  the  roadway,  just  west  of  the  Common,  stands  the  time- 
worn  Washington  Elm,  to  which  is  affixed  a  tablet  stating  the  historic  fact 
that  under  this  tree  Washington  first  took  command  of  the  American 


Washington  Elm 


io6 


RADCLIFFE  COLLEGE 


army.  Opposite  the  Washington  Elm  is  the  group  of  buildings  belong- 
ing to  Radcliffe  College,  the  girls'  college,  a  recognized  and  highly  suc- 
cessful part  of  the  university.  These  buildings  are  on  the  corner  of 
Garden  and  Mason  streets. 

This  venture  of  giving  women  instruction  in  the  same  studies  that  were  pur- 
sued at  Harvard  was  begun  in  a  small  way  in  1879.  It  was  not  a  Part  OI  Harvard, 
but,  as  a  humorous  student  remarked,  it  was  a  Harvard  Annex.  The  name  came 
into  common  use.     The  professors  and  tutors  as  a  rule  were  strongly  in  favor 


Longfellow  House 


of  the  scheme,  some  even  offering  to  teach  for  nothing  rather  than  have  it  fail. 
The  Annex  was  a  success.  The  Fay  house  on  Garden  Street  was  bought.  Lady 
Anne  Moulson  in  1643  nad  given  £100  as  a  scholarship  to  Harvard,  the  first  one. 
Her  maiden  name  was  Radcliffe,  and  as  the  Annex  grew  it  was  incorporated  as 
Radcliffe  College,  and  now  has  several  fine  buildings,  a  large  number  of  students, 
and  its  diplomas  bear  the  seal  of  the  older  institution  and  the  signature  of  its 
president.  In  the  Fay  house,  by  the  way,  in  1836,  the  words  of  "  Fair  Harvard" 
were  written  by  the  Rev.  Samuel  Gilman  of  Charleston,  S.C. 

Returning  toward  the  college  we  pass  Christ  Church,  which  was 
built  in  1760  by  Peter  Harrison,  who  designed  King's  Chapel  in  Bos- 
ton. Washington  worshiped  here.  Adjoining  the  church  is  an  old 
burying  ground  which  dates  from  1636,  the  year  of  the  founding  of  the 
college.  Near  the  fence  will  be  observed  a  milestone  bearing  this 
inscription:  "Boston,  8  miles.  1734."  This  was  one  of  many  mile- 
stones set  up  by  Governor  Dudley;   and  what  is  now  a  legend  was 


LONGFELLOW  AND   LOWELL   HOUSES 


°7 


once  true,  for,  before  the  bridges  were  constructed  over  the  Charles 
River  between  Boston  and  Cambridge,  the  highway  connecting  the 
two  places  ran  through  Boston  Neck  and  what  is  now  Brighton,  and 
was  no  less  than  eight  miles  long. 

Some  outlying  spots  might  well  be  visited  if  time  allowed,  and  espe- 
cially Soldiers  Field,  the  present  extensive  playground  of  the  univer- 
sity, and  the  gift  of  Major  Henry  L.  Higginson.  This  borders  upon  the 
river,  half  a  mile  or  so  south  of  the  yard,  and  near  it  are  the  Harvard 
boathouses.  Brattle  Street,  the  "Tory  Row"  of  Provincial  days,  is 
easily  reached  by  electric  car  from  Harvard  Square,  and  is  full  of  inter- 
est. Here  are  the  stone  buildings  of  the  Episcopal  Theological  School, 
and  just  above  them 
the  Longfellow  house, 
one  of  the  finest  of 
colonial  mansions.  It 
was  built  about  the 
year  1759  by  Colonel 
John  Vassall,  a  refugee 
of  the  Revolution. 
Washington  took  up 
his  headquarters  here 
when  he  removed  from 
Wadsworth  House, 
and  here  Madam 
Washington  joined 
him.      Afterward    the 

estate  passed  into  the  hands  of  various  owners :  was  used  as  a  lodging 
house  by  Harvard  professors  when  the  widow  Craigie  owned  it ;  was 
occupied  by  such  distinguished  persons  as  Jared  Sparks,  Edward 
Everett,  and  Worcester,  the  dictionary  maker ;  and  finally  became  the 
home  of  the  poet  Longfellow.  It  is  now  occupied  by  a  daughter,  Miss 
Alice  Longfellow,  and  next  to  it  is  the  home  of  another  daughter  who 
married  a  public-spirited  citizen,  Richard  H.  Dana,  son  of  the  distin- 
guished lawyer  who  wrote  "  Two  Years  Before  the  Mast,"  and  grandson 
of  the  poet  of  the  same  name.  About  ten  minutes'  walk  on  Brattle 
Street  beyond  the  Longfellow  house  brings  us  to  the  corner  of  Elmwood 
Avenue,  which  leads  past  the  familiar  Lowell  house,  where  James  Russell 
Lowell  was  born,  and  which  was  his  lifelong  home.  The  seclusion  of  the 
house,  which  Lowell  so  much  enjoyed,  is  now  impaired  by  the  parkway 
which  skirts  the  Lowell  grove.  Mt.  Auburn  Street  itself  has  been  mod- 
ernized by  a  succession  of  public  hospitals  and  the  like.  Back  of  these 
hospitals,  on  the  river,  the  curious  visitor  may  behold  the  site  where  Leif 


Lowell  House 


108  MOUNT  AUBURN 

Ericson  built  his  house  in  the  year  iooi,  or  thereabout,  —  according  to  the 
identification  of  Professor  Eben  N.  Horsford,  whose  other  memorials  of 
supposed  Norsemen  we  shall  encounter  later.  Close  at  hand  is  Mount 
Auburn,  celebrated  for  its  natural  beauty,  as  well  as  for  the  distinguished 
dead  who  lie  buried  here.  In  the  vestibule  of  the  brownstone  chapel  at 
the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  cemetery  are  the  much-admired  statues  of 
John  Winthrop  (by  Greenough),  John  Adams  (by  Randall  Rogers),  James 
Otis  (by  Thomas  Crawford),  and  Joseph  Story  (by  his  son).  Turning  to 
the  left  we  seek  Fountain  Avenue  and  the  graves  of  the  Rev.  Charles 
Lowell,  of  his  son,  James  Russell  Lowell,  and  of  the  latter's  three 
nephews,  all  of  whom  were  killed  in  the  Civil  War.  "  Some  choice 
New  England  stock  in  that  little  plot  of  ground."  On  the  ridge  back 
of  this  lot  is  the  monument  of  Longfellow,  and  near  by  (on  Lime 
Avenue)  the  grave  of  Holmes.  If,  instead  of  turning  to  the  left  from 
the  entrance,  we  ascend  the  hill  to  the  right,  passing  the  statue  of  Bow- 
ditch,  the  mathematician,  we  shall  come  to  the  old  Gothic  chapel  now 
used  as  a  crematory.  Facing  this  stands  the  famous  Sphinx,  the  work 
of  Martin  Milmore.  Among  other  monuments  in  various  parts  of  the 
cemetery  are  those  of  William  Ellery  Channing  (Green-Briar  Path), 
Hosea  Ballou  (Central  Avenue),  Charles  Sumner  (Arethusa  Path), 
Edward  Everett  (Magnolia  Avenue),  Charlotte  Cushman  (Palm 
Avenue),  Edwin  Booth  (Anemone  Path),  Louis  Agassiz  (Bellwort 
Path),  Anson  Burlingame  (Spruce  Avenue),  Samuel  G.  Howe  (near 
Spruce  Avenue),  and  Phillips  Brooks  (Mimosa  Path).  In  the  Fuller 
lot  (Pyrola  Path)  is  a  monument  to  Margaret  Fuller  Ossoli. 

From  the  cemetery  a  Huron  Avenue  car  will  take  us  to  the  Astro- 
nomical Observatory,  and  by  walking  through  the  observatory  grounds  we 
can  reach  the  Harvard  Botanic  Garden,  laid  out  in  1807.  This  garden, 
open  to  the  public,  is  full  of  interesting  features,  such  as  a  bed  of 
Shakespearean  flowers,  another  of  flowers  mentioned  by  Virgil,  and  still 
another  of  such  quaint  plants  as  grew  in  an  old-time  New  England  garden. 

The  sight-seeing  resources  of  Cambridge  are  not  yet  exhausted,  but 
the  sight-seer  may  be ;  and  so  from  the  Botanic  Garden  we  will  take 
an  electric  car  for  Boston,  "  stopping  off,"  however,  at  Harvard  Square. 
Across  Massachusetts  Avenue,  at  the  corner  of  Dunster  Street,  we  may 
observe  the  site,  marked  by  a  tablet,  of  the  house  of  Stephen  Daye, 
first  printer  in  British  America,  1638-1648.  Here  were  printed  the  "  Bay 
Psalm-Book  "  and  Eliot's  Indian  Bible.  Farther  down  Dunster  Street,  at 
the  corner  of  Mt.  Auburn  Street,  is  marked  the  site  of  the  first  meeting- 
house in  Cambridge,  set  up  in  1632  ;  and  still  farther  down,  at  the  corner 
of  South  Street,  is  a  tablet  where  once  stood  the  house  of  Thomas 
Dudley,  founder  of  Cambridge,  who  lived  here  in  1630. 


BROOKLINE  109 

From  the  south  side  of  Massachusetts  Avenue  leads  off  Bow  Street, 
once  the  great  highway  through  these  parts  ;  and  here  may  still  be  seen 
the  colonial  mansion  occupied  in  prerevolutionary  days  by  Colonel 
David  Phips.  In  the  same  street  the  regicides  Whalley  and  Gaffe  were 
in  hiding  (1660)  until  the  king,  learning  of  their  presence,  ordered  their 
arrest ;  they  fled  to  New  Haven.  Just  above  Bow  Street  is  Plympton 
Street,  where,  shut  in  by  modern  brick  dormitories,  is  a  fine  wooden 
colonial  mansion,  constructed  about  1761  by  the  Rev.  East  Apthorp, 
rector  of  Christ  Church.  Mr.  Apthorp,  it  was  supposed,  aspired  to 
be  a  bishop,  and  consequently  his  house  was  called  in  derision  the 
"Bishop's  Palace."  Burgoyne  was  lodged  here  after  his  surrender  at 
Saratoga. 

Taking  an  electric  car  again,  we  return  to  Boston  via  the  new  Har- 
vard Bridge.  Two  hundred  years  ago  this  would  have  been  a  ride  on 
horseback,  or  in  a  chaise,  of  eight  miles,  and  over  a  rough  road.  Now 
it  is  a  trip  of  three  or  four  miles,  accomplished,  luxuriously,  in  less  than 
half  an  hour.  Cotton  Mather  would  have  shuddered  at  the  change  ; 
and  yet  the  University  is  now  so  large,  and  so  completely  a  little  world 
in  itself,  that  even  the  proximity  of  Boston  can  hardly  ruffle  its  com- 
posure or  divert  its  scholastic  energies. 

BROOKLINE 

Brookline  is  the  richest  suburb  of  Boston  and  in  many  respects  the 
most  attractive,  with  numerous  beautiful  estates  and  tasteful  "  villas  " 
and  charming  drives.  During  all  the  years  since  its  population  entitled 
it  to  a  city  charter,  its  people  have  steadfastly  refused  to  give  up  their 
primitive  government  by  the  New  England  town  meeting,  just  as  they 
have  declined  all  propositions  looking  to  annexation  to  Boston,  although 
their  territory  is  embraced  on  three  sides  by  the  encroaching  munici- 
pality. It  began,  however,  as  a  possession  of  Boston.  As  "  Muddy 
River,"  so  first  called  from  the  stream  which  still  bears  the  name  and 
contributes  no  little  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  Fenway  section  of  the 
Boston  City  Parks  System,  its  fertile  fields  were  originally  utilized  by 
the  chief  settlers  at  Boston  as  a  "  grazing-place  for  their  swine  and 
other  cattle,  while  corn"  was  on  the  ground  in  Boston.  For  a  time, 
through  this  usage,  it  was  known  as  "  Boston  Commons."  It  was  set 
off  as  an  independent  town  only  in  1705,  when  the  name  of  Brooklyn 
was  given  it,  and  its  inhabitants  were  "  enjoyned  to  build  a  meeting- 
house and  obtain  an  Orthodox  minister,"  —  so  closely  were  civic  and 
ecclesiastical  prerogatives  blended  in  the  government  then. 

We  may  reach  Brookline  from  Boston  easily,  quickly,  and  cheaply 


no 


BACK  BAY   FENS 


by  several  routes.  The  Newton  Circuit  line  of  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad  (South  Station,  or  Trinity  Place  Station,  a  few  steps  from 
Copley  Square)  skirts  and  traverses  the  town,  and  has  four  stations 
within  its  borders.  Various  trolley  lines  cover  it  more  generally,  —  via 
Tremont  Street  and  Roxbury  Crossing  to  Brookline  Village  ;  via  Boyls- 
ton  and  Ipswich  streets  and  Brookline  Avenue  to  the  same  point ;  via 
Beacon  Street  to  the  Chestnut  Hill  reservoir;  via  Huntington  Avenue 
and  Brookline  Village  to  several  destinations.  For  the  purpose  of  rapid 
exploration  the  trolley  is  superior  to  the  steam  railway,  and  the  last-named 


Agassiz  Bridge  in  the  Fens 


line  is  the  most  convenient.  In  the  Subway,  or  on  Boylston  Street  or 
Huntington  Avenue,  or  at  Copley  Square  we  may  take  any  outward-bound 
car  bearing  the  legend  "  Brookline  Village  via  Huntington  Avenue." 

Leaving  Copley  Square  we  soon  pass  the  succession  of  notable  build- 
ings about  and  beyond  Massachusetts  Avenue,  and  presently  traverse  a 
quite  open  territory.  On  the  left  are  the  large  grounds  and  buildings 
of  the  Boston  American  Baseball  Club ;  and  if  we  look  still  farther 
to  the  south  we  can  see  beyond  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 
Railroad  tracks  the  similar  plant  of  its  rival  (National)  association.  On 
our  right  is  a  wide  expanse  of  the  land  reclaimed  from  the  primeval 
salt  marsh,  whereon  occasional  circuses  and  other  tent  shows  encamp. 
Beyond  this  not  inviting  tract  we  catch  glimpses  of  the  Back  Bay 
Fens, —  part  of  the  Boston  City  Parks  System,  —  which  follow  the 
general  course   of  the  tortuous  Muddy  River  from  its  mouth  at  the 


GARDNER   MUSEUM 


Charles  to  a  point  near  Brookline  Avenue,  where  they  narrow  into  the 
Riverway. 

Near  the  Tremont  entrance  to  the  Fens  from  Huntington  Avenue  we 
get  a  view  of  "  Fenway  Court,"  which  contains  the  rich  collection  of  works 
of  art  belonging  to  the  Isabella  Stuart  Gardner  Museum  corporation.  Close 
by  this  Venetian  structure  is  seen  the  Simmons  College  building  (see  pp. 
89-90) ;  and  north  of  the  college,  the  Church  of  the  Disciples  (Unitarian), 
successor  of  the  meetinghouse  at  the  South  End  of  the  city,  long  the 
pulpit  of  James  Freeman  Clarke.  Next  in  our  immediate  neighborhood 
appears  the  cluster  of  Boston  Normal  School  buildings  (erecting  in  1907) ; 
then  the  noble  group  of 
white  pillared  structures 
constituting  the  Medical 
School  of  Harvard  Uni- 
versity, facing  the  pro- 
posed Avenue  Louis 
Pasteur.  A  little  farther 
on  we  pass  the  House  of 
the  Good  Shepherd,  a 
Catholic  institution  for 
the  shelter  and  reclama- 
tion of  wayward  women 
and  girls,  —  a  large  brick 
structure  set  in  ample 
grounds. 

As  we  cross  the  Riverway  just  at  the  foot  of  Leverett  Pond,  into 
which  the  river  here  widens,  a  pleasing  vista  opens  out  to  the  left.  On 
either  side  of  the  tranquil  lake  are  superb  driveways,  which  of  a  pleasant 
afternoon  are  crowded  with  vehicles.  A  few  rods  farther  on  we  are 
brought  to  our  immediate  destination,  Village  Square,  where  free  trans- 
fers to  other  trolley  lines  may  be  made.  Since  our  present  object  is  to  see 
something  of  the  historical  side  of  Brookline,  as  well  as  the  part  wherein 
is  most  exhibited  the  progress  attained  in  the  art  of  the  landscape  archi- 
tect, we  will  here  transfer  to  another  car.  We  may  remark  in  passing 
that  on  the  left  of  the  street  (Washington)  by  which  we  entered  the 
square  stood  in  the  old  days  the  "  Punch-Bowl  Tavern,"  built  about 
1730,  —  before  the  Revolution  a  favorite  junketing  place  for  British 
officers  from  the  Boston  garrison,  and  for  nearly  a  century  the  stopping 
place  of  the  stagecoaches  for  Worcester  and  other  inland  towns,  and 
for  the  great  goods  wagons,  the  pioneers  of  our  modern  freight  trains. 

Boylston  Street,  originally  the  Worcester  turnpike,  branches  off  to  the 
left,  and  since  the  Ipswich  Street  line  of  cars  from  Boston,  mentioned 


The  Gardner  Museum  of  Art 


112  BOSTON    CHURCH    AND    MUSICAL   DIRECTORY. 

St.  John's  Church;  1262  Tremont  St. 

Pastor — Rev.  Chas.  Mockridge,  107  Hampshire  St.,  Roxbury. 
Clerk — Henry   Boone,   79A   Sheridan   St.,  Jamaica  Plain. 
Choir — Boys  and  men  with  an  auxiliary  choir  of  women. 
Musical  Director  and  Organist — Vacant. 

Deacons — Wilson    Dibblee,  26  Greenville  St.,   Roxbury;   Ed- 
ward E.  Cutter,  21  Allston  St.,  Dorchester. 
Superintendent — Rev.  Charles  Mockridge. 
Sexton — William  Francis,  101  Hampshire  St.,  Roxbury. 
Hours  of  Service — 8,  10,  10.30  A.  M.,  7.30  P.  M. 

St.  John's  Church  in  the  City  of  Boston;  80  Lexington  St., 
East  Boston. 

Pastor — Rev.    Charles    E.    Jackson,    115    Trenton    St.,    East 

Boston. 
Clerk — William  J.  Watkins,  1057  Saratoga  St.,  East  Boston. 
Choir — Surpliced  choir. 


Mrs.  MAY  SHEPARD 
HAYWARD 

Soprano 

CHURCH,  CONCERT, 
OPERA,  ACCOMPANIST 

Pianoforte  and  Singing 
Instruction 

NEWTON     .     .    MASS. 

Telephone,  Newton  North  851-3 


EPISCOPAL. 


113 


Musical    Director    and    Organist — Herbert    C.    Peabody,    37 

West  Eagle  St. 
Wardens— Wm.  L.  Sweeney,  255  Meridian  St.,  East  Boston; 

Wm.  H.  Adams,  455  Meridian  St.,  East  Boston. 
Superintendent — Rev.  Geo.  Stanley  Fiske,  117  Trenton  St. 
Sexton — Wm.  O.  Farmer,  117  Trenton  St. 
Hours  of  Service — 10.30  A.  M.,  7.30  P.  M. 

St.  John's  Episcopal  Church;  corner  Devens  St.  and  Ruther- 
ford Ave.,  Charlestown. 

Pastor— Rev.  Philo  W.  Sprague,  41  Monument  Sq.,  Charles- 
town. 

Organist  and  Musical  Director — Charles  Wilson,  Harvard 
St.,  Charlestown. 

Wardens— Benjamin  F.  Stacey,  33  High  St.,  Charlestown; 
Dr.  Edward  E.  Allen,  32  Monument  St.,  Charlestown. 

Sexton — William  Hodges,  St.  John's  Parish  House,  Devens 
St.,  Charlestown. 


ERNEST  W.  HARRISON 

PIANIST 
ORGANIST  and    DIRECTOR 

Old  Cambridge  Baptist  Church 

TEACHER  of  PIANOFORTE 


Studio,  23  Belvidere  Street,  BOSTON 

Telephone 


114  POINTS   OF  INTEREST  IN  BROOKLINE 

fine  granite  Town  Hall,  and  the  brick  Public  Library  building  (capacity 
of  this  library,  75,000  volumes)  on  the  right.  We  now  enter  upon  a 
region  of  ample,  homelike-looking  houses,  generously  encompassed  by 
well-kept  grounds. 

To  our  left  we  see  Aspinwall  Hill  rise  sharply,  its  sides  here  and  there 
showing  open  patches  of  pleasant  lawn  among  the  tree-embowered 
estates.  An  occasional  break  in  the  line  of  front  walls  inclosing  the 
Washington  Street  properties  accommodates  a  "  path  "  of  steep  stairs 
leading  up  to  Gardner  Road,  the  first  of  the  series  of  streets  partly 
encircling  the  hill.  Many  others  there  are,  in  sweeping  curves  or  cres- 
cents, entering  upon  and  continuing  short  bits  of  straight  highway.  The 
landscape  architects  have  happily  avoided  the  mistake  of  trying  to  lay 
out  a  swelling  hilltop  in  rectangles. 

We  may  alight  at  Gardner  Path,  hedge-  and  vine-bordered,  which  will 
bring  us  up  to  the  most  picturesque  part  of  Gardner  Circle.  To  our  left 
is  the  Blake  estate,  occupying  part  of  the  original  Muddy  River  farm 
of  the  Rev.  John  Cotton,  the  early  colonial  minister  of  the  church 
in  Boston.  Above,  on  one  of  the  most  sightly  parts  of  the  slope,  stood, 
until  within  a  year  or  two,  the  old  Aspinwall  house,  shaded  by  fine  elms. 
Its  site  now  bears  a  modern  mansion.  Dr.  William  Aspinwall,  who 
built  it  in  1803,  was  a  notable  physician  in  his  day,  a  minuteman  from 
the  town,  and  a  patriot  all  through  the  Revolution.  His  house  —  a 
grand  one  in  its  period,  and  to  its  last  day  a  dignified,  ample  structure — 
was  once  the  only  dwelling  on  this  side  of  the  hill,  and  commanded  the 
whole  sweep  of  the  Charles  River  and  the  then  distant  town  of  Boston 
in  its  outlook.  Ascending  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  if  we  desire,  by  a  sort 
of  switch-back  arrangement  of  curving  and  gradually  rising  roads,  we 
pass  many  attractive  residences,  mostly  new,  our  highest  point  being 
reached  on  the  S-shaped  Addington  Road,  two  hundred  and  forty  feet 
above  sea  level.  From  here,  so  far  as  the  breaks  between  the  rows  of 
apartment  houses  will  permit,  we  catch  glimpses  of  country  hills  to  the 
south,  and  of  the  village  at  our  feet ;  to  the  north,  across  the  Beacon 
Street  Boulevard,  rises  Corey  Hill,  two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high, 
formerly  part  of  the  extensive  farm  of  Deacon  Timothy  Corey,  now 
covered  with  showy  modern  estates. 

We  can  descend  to  the  boulevard  in  a  few  minutes  by  Addington 
Path  and  Winthrop  Road,  and  take  any  Newton  Boulevard  car,  west- 
bound, which  will  convey  us  shortly  to  Beacon  Circle,  directly  facing 
which  is  the  high  embankment  and  gatehouse  of  the  Chestnut  Hill 
Reservoir,  through  which  flows  a  great  part  of  the  water  supply  of  Bos- 
ton. Here  to  the  left  is  the  High-Service  Pumping  Station,  a  group  of 
solid  buildings  of  some  architectural  merit,  especially  when  seen  across 


POINTS   OF  INTEREST  IN  BROOKLINE  115 

the  beautiful  expanse  of  waters  making  up  the  reservoir.  The  pumps 
are  among  the  largest  and  finest  of  their  class. 

From  this  point  our  car  turns  to  the  right  through  Chestnut  Hill 
Avenue,  along  the  eastern  edge  of  the  reservoir,  and  immediately  we 
reenter  Boston.  To  our  right  are  various  roads  with  English  and  Scotch 
names,  making  up  the  Aberdeen  District,  an  attractive  and  healthful 
addition  to  the  city's  "  sleeping  room,"  lately  built  up  in  the  midst  of 
what  was  primeval  forest  and  ragged  ledges  of  pudding  stone.  To  our 
left,  as  we  turn  into  Commonwealth  Avenue,  the  grounds  surrounding 
the  twin  lakes  of  the  reservoir  have  been  taken  by  the  Metropolitan 
Water  Board  and  converted  into  the  Reservoir  Park,  one  of  the  most 
restful  and  charming  pleasure  grounds  to  be  found  in  the  neighborhood 
of  any  great  city.  All  around  the  winding  outlines  of  the  basin  runs 
a  trim  driveway,  and  beside  it  a  smooth  gravel  footpath.  On  all  sides 
of  the  lake  are  symmetrical  knolls,  covered  with  forest  trees  and  the 
greenest  of  turf.  The  banks  to  the  water's  edge  are  sodded  and  bor- 
dered with  flowering  shrubs ;  and  the  stonework,  which  in  one  place 
carries  the  road  across  a  natural  chasm,  and  the  great  natural  ledges, 
are  mantled  with  clinging  vines,  and  in  autumn  are  aflame  with  the 
crimson  of  the  Ampelopsis  and  the  Virginia  creeper.  On  the  southern 
side,  close  to  the  narrow  isthmus  dividing  the  upper  from  the  lower 
lake,  stands  a  classical  gatehouse,  and  behind  it  Chestnut  Hill  rears  its 
wooded  mass,  crowned  with  some  attractive  dwellings.  A  pleasant, 
shaded  road  winds  to  the  hilltop,  which  commands  a  noble  prospect. 

Our  car  continues  along  Commonwealth  Avenue,  which  here  crosses 
a  high  ridge.  To  the  right  the  view  embraces  a  pretty  stone  chapel, 
thrifty  truck  patches  sloping  away  from  our  feet,  a  deep,  verdant  valley, 
with  Strong's  and  Chandler's  ponds  nestling  in  its  greenery.  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  below  us  stands  the  Catholic  Theological  Seminary  of 
St.  John,  a  cluster  of  buildings  imbedded  in  noble  trees.  The  estate 
which  it  occupies  was  once  an  extensive  country  seat,  known  as  the 
Stanwood  place,  comprising  many  acres  of  beautiful  wooded  land ;  and 
much  of  its  beauty  in  woodland  has  wisely  been  retained.  On  our  left 
we  pass  Evergreen  Cemetery,  and  beyond  several  handsome  estates 
set  well  back  from  the  street.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  Lake  Street,  we 
reach-the  boundary  line  of  the  city  of  Newton,  and  here  is  a  little  transfer 
station,  where  we  change  to  a  car  of  the  Commonwealth  Avenue  line, 
which  traverses  the  beautiful  extension  of  the  famous  Boston  avenue,  — 
this  part  called  the  Newton  Boulevard,  —  leading  to  various  sections  of 
Newton  and  to  the  country  town  of  Weston. 


n6  NEWTONS  AND  WESTON 


THE    NEWTONS    AND   WESTON 

Along  Newton  Boulevard  to  the  Newtons  and  Weston.  From  the  trans- 
fer station  at  Lake  Street  (reached  by  all  electric  cars  from  the  Subway 
or  Copley  Square  marked  "  Newton  Boulevard  ")  our  car  first  climbs  the 
long  slope  of  Waban  Hill,  the  highest  of  Newton's  many  hills,  —  three 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  —  lined  with  modern  houses  whose  chief 
recommendation  is  the  charming  outlook  which  they  enjoy.  On  the 
summit,  to  our  right,  is  the  reservoir  of  the  city  of  Newton.  From  this 
point  the  road  stretches  out  in  graceful,  sweeping  curves  for  about  five 
miles,  to  the  old  stone  bridge  crossing  the  Charles  River  to  Weston, 
at  nearly  the  westernmost  apex  of  the  town.  The  road  is  practically 
perfect,  —  a  broad,  smooth  driveway  on  either  side  of  a  turfed  and 
shaded  park  through  which  the  double  tracks  of  the  trolley  line  run,  per- 
mitting of  high  speed.  Advantage  has  been  taken  of  the  naturally 
diversified  configuration  of  the  country  to  make  the  highway  as  pictur- 
esque as  possible,  and  we  smoothly  climb  lofty  ridges,  gayly  swing  down 
their  farther  slopes,  wind  around  the  shoulders  of  swelling  knolls,  and 
whirl  through  shady  forest  depths  in  as  much  comfort  and  with  nearly 
as  much  speed  as  the  occupants  of  the  many  automobiles  which  find 
this  their  most  delightful  trip  out  of  Boston. 

We  pass  between  the  villages  of  Newton,  Newtonville,  and  West 
Newton  on  our  right ;  Newton  Center,  Newton  Highlands,  and  Waban 
on  our  left,  and  through  one  edge  of  Auburndale,  which  here  skirts  the 
river.  Our  terminus  is  the  favorite  pleasure  ground  called  Norumbega 
Park,  where  the  trolley  company  has  provided  on  the  shore  of  the 
stream  a  variety  of  attractions  for  many  tastes,  —  an  open-air  theater, 
an  extensive  menagerie,  a  cafe,  and  a  large  boathouse,  where  canoes 
and  rowboats  may  be  hired.  A  launch  plies  the  river  between  the  park 
and  Waltham,  making  hourly  trips  daily,  afternoon  and  evening. 

Canoeing  is  the  all-engrossing  sport  on  this  part  of  the  river,  and  just 
around  the  bend  to  our  left  is  the  Riverside  Recreation  Ground.  We 
cannot  see  it,  for  a  high  wooded  promontory  shuts  off  our  view ;  but 
we  may  take  a  canoe  and  paddle  up  through  the  stone  arch  of  the 
Weston  Bridge,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  shall  be  in  the  thick  of  the 
fleet  at  Riverside,  where  on  a  pleasant  afternoon  or  evening  the  water 
is  often  so  densely  covered  that  one  might  almost  cross  the  stream  by 
stepping  from  one  canoe  to  another.  Frequently  during  the  summer  the 
fleet  parades,  decorated  with  lanterns,  bunting,  and  flowers,  and  various 
water  fetes  are  held  at  odd  times.  The  grounds  and  boathouses  are 
extensive  and  well  equipped ;  and  near  by  are  the  houses  of  the  Newton 
Boat  Club,  the  Boston  Canoe  Club,  and  the  Boston  Athletic  Association, 


NEWTONS  AND  WESTON  117 

whose  large  membership  helps  to  swell  the  crowds  upon  the  river  on 
these  occasions. 

As  we  stand  at  the  Weston  Bridge,  looking  west,  the  noble  mass  of 
Doublet  Hill,  with  its  twin  summits  respectively  three  hundred  and  forty 
and  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high,  rises  directly  before  us.  On  the 
hither  slope,  during  1 902-1 903,  the  forces  of  the  Metropolitan  Water 
Board  have  been  busily  at  work,  constructing  an  equalizing  reservoir  and 
the  channel  leading  to  it,  and  laying  the  great  sixty-inch  mains  down 
from  the  reservoir  to  and  across  the  river.  A  thirteen-mile  aqueduct, 
much  of  it  tunneled  through  the  rock,  brings  the  water  from  the  Sud- 
bury dam  in  Southboro,  through  Framingham,  Wayland,  and  Weston 
to  this  new  reservoir.  The  huge  mains  constructed  during  the  summer 
of  1902  along  the  Newton  Boulevard  now  convey  the  additional  supply 
to  the  Chestnut  Hill  basins. 

From  its  summit  Doublet  Hill  presents  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country,  and  its  ascent  is  easy,  either  by  a  path  through  the  wood  or 
via  South  Avenue  (which  forms  the  western  continuation  of  Common- 
wealth Avenue  through  Weston  and  Wayland)  and  Newton  Street,  which 
branches  off  a  little  to  the  right  and  leads  to  Weston  village  and  the  sta- 
tion of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad.  If  we  take  the  latter  course  we 
shall  pass  the  residences  of  many  professional  and  business  men,  who 
find  Weston  a  quiet  and  healthful  home.  Thus  far  the  trolley  road  has 
not  invaded  the  old  town ;  but  the  selectmen  have  granted  a  franchise 
lately  to  a  company  which  proposes  to  build  from  Waltham,  and  very 
soon  the  ubiquitous  electric  cars  will  be  whizzing  and  clanging  through 
the  shady  streets,  so  long  sacred  to  private  vehicles. 

To  the  left  of  South  Avenue,  East  Newton  Street  pursues  a  winding 
course  to  the  river  at  Newton  Lower  Falls,  a  factory  village,  where  one 
may  take  a  train  for  Boston  if  he  so  desires.  On  the  way  one  passes 
"Kewaydin,"  the  extensive  estate  of  Francis  Blake  (inventor  of  the 
Blake  telephone  transmitter),  a  castellated  structure  standing  on  a  high, 
stone-walled  bank. 

But  probably  the  most  generally  interesting  spot  to  be  reached  by  a 
short  walk  from  Weston  Bridge  is  the  famous  Norumbega  Tower,  built 
by  the  late  Professor  Eben  N.  Horsford  to  commemorate  the  site  of 
the  Norsemen's  fort  founded  by  Leif  Ericson  about  the  year  1000,  as 
Professor  Horsford  held.  He  elaborately  carried  out  his  identification  of 
Watertown  with  the  Vinland  of  the  Northmen,  and  traced  their  wharves, 
canals,  docks,  and  walls  along  the  river  to  this  point,  the  site  of  their 
stronghold,  where  may  still  be  seen  —  at  least  the  professor  saw  them  — 
the  remains  of  the  moat  and  dam  which  the  Northmen  constructed. 
On  this  walk  a  short  distance  up  South  Avenue  we  take  the  first  turn 


n8  NORTHERN  NEWTONS 

to  the  right,  River  Street,  and  follow  that  street  along  the  riverside  for 
about  half  a  mile,  to  the  mouth  of  Stony  Brook,  which  divides  Weston 
from  Waltham.  The  tower  is  a  structure  of  field  stone,  with  an  inside 
staircase  giving  access  to  a  lookout  at  the  top,  and  it  bears  a  tablet 
upon  which  is  inscribed  a  detailed  description  of  the  Norsemen's  works 
according  to  Professor  Horsford's  theory. 

Here  the  waters  of  Stony  Brook  are  collected  by  a  dam  across  the 
mouth  of  the  narrow  gorge,  forming  one  of  the  reservoirs  of  the  city  of 
Cambridge.  Beyond  it,  the  towering  bulk  of  Prospect  Hill,  in  Waltham, 
cuts  off  further  view  in  this  direction.  We  might  reach  Prospect  Hill 
by  a  walk  of  about  three  miles,  but  it  would  be  better  to  return  to 
Norumbega  Park  and  Boston. 

The  Northern  Newtons.  By  way  of  varying  our  route  and  seeing  some- 
thing of  the  northern  Newtons,  we  will  take  a  red  car,  which  turns  off 
the  boulevard  at  Washington  Street  and  follows  that  chief  thoroughfare 
of  this  section  down  the  steep  incline  through  West  Newton,  a  conven- 
ient and  —  away  from  the  railroad  —  a  pretty  residential  section.  This 
is  also  the  civic  center  of  Newton,  the  City  Hall  standing  near  the  New 
York  Central  Railroad  station.  We  pass  it  soon  after  reaching  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  Washington  Street  swinging  around  to  the  right  and  hence- 
forward following  the  steam  railroad  tracks.  These  were  depressed  a  few 
years  ago,  at  great  expense,  so  as  entirely  to  eliminate  grade  crossings  — 
of  which  there  were  many —  throughout  the  city.  This  street  is  the  chief 
business  avenue  all  along  through  Newtonville  to  Newton,  —  anciently 
Newton  Corner,  —  where  our  line  ends  and  we  may  transfer  to  cars  for 
other  villages  or  for  Boston,  via  Brighton  and  Commonwealth  Avenue. 

Taking  one  of  the  latter,  a  ride  of  less  than  five  minutes  through 
Tremont  Street  brings  us  to  Waverley  Avenue,  where  we  alight  if  we 
wish  to  see  the  Eliot  Monument,  commemorating  the  first  preaching  to 
the  Indians  by  John  Eliot,  "  the  apostle."  It  is  rather  a  stiff  climb  up 
Waverley  Avenue  to  Kenrick  Street  (on  the  left),  and  a  few  minutes' 
walk  along  Kenrick  Street  to  a  lane  on  the  right,  which  leads  a  few 
steps  down  to  the  unique  monument,  —  a  handsome  balustraded  ter- 
race, on  the  face  of  which  are  set  tablets  bearing  the  names  of  Eliot 
and  his  associates,  and  this  inscription : 

Here  at  Nonantum,  Oct.  28,  1646,  in  Waban's  wigwam 

near  this  spot,  John  Eliot  began  to  preach  the  gospel  to 

the  Indians.     Here  he  founded  the  first  Christian 

community  of  Indians  within  the  English  colonies. 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  terrace  is  very  fine.  It  embraces 
much  of  the  ground  which  we  traversed  on  our  way  out  from  Boston, 


NEWTON  AND  WELLESLEY  119 

including  the  wooded  slope  of  Waban  Hill  just  opposite,  Strong's  and 
Chandler's  ponds  in  the  valley  to  our  left,  and  St.  John's  Catholic 
Seminary  in  its  grove  close  beside  the  Boulevard. 

We  may,  if  we  wish,  cross  over  Waban  Hill  via  Waverley  and  Grant 
avenues,  returning  to  Lake  Street  transfer  station,  and  choose  one  of 
two  or  three  pleasant  routes  back  to  the  city.  The  cars  via  Coolidge's 
Corner  and  the  Beacon  Street  boulevard  will  show  us  all  the  latest  tri- 
umphs of  the  builder's  art  in  blocks  and  apartment  houses ;  those  via 
Commonwealth  Avenue  will  take  us  swiftly  over  a  magnificent  ridge,  — 
the  northwestern  end  of  Corey  Hill,  —  from  the  top  of  which  a  sweep- 
ing view  is  had  of  Boston,  Cambridge,  and  many  towns  beyond.  The 
road  is  winding  and  runs  up  hill  and  down  dale,  like  its  Newton  pro- 
longation ;  and  since  it  is  not  much  built  up  as  yet,  and  there  are  few 
intersecting  streets,  our  speed  is  but  little  less  than  that  of  the  automo- 
biles which  make  this  a  favorite  course.  Either  car  we  may  take  will 
soon  bring  us  back  to  Copley  Square  or  the  Subway. 

Newton  was  originally  part  of  Cambridge,  but  in  1691  was  set  off  as  Newton 
by  the  General  Court,  its  previous  designation  having  been  Little  Cambridge.  Its 
Indian  name  of  Nonantum  is  perpetuated  in  one  of  the  least  attractive  of  its 
many  villages,  —  a  manufacturing  hamlet  on  the  north  side,  separated  from 
Watertown  only  by  the  river.  The  area  within  the  city  limits  is  nearly  thirteen 
thousand  acres,  and  its  contour  is  very  diversified,  a  number  of  fine  hills  rising 
to  heights  of  from  two  hundred  to  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  The  Charles 
River  forms  the  meandering  boundary  line,  separating  Newton  from  Watertown, 
Waltham,  Weston,  Wellesley,  and  Needham,  successively.  The  main  line  and 
also  the  Newton  Circuit  branch  of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad  traverse  the 
city  and  serve  the  various  sections  with  a  dozen  stations.  A  number  of  electric 
lines,  radiating  mostly  from  the  business  center,  —  anciently  Newton  Corner,  now 
plain  Newton,  —  thread  all  sections. 

NEWTON  AND  WELLESLEY 

The  many  trolley  lines  radiating  from  Boston  to  all  its  suburbs  make 
it  easy  to  reach  widely  separated  places  of  interest  in  a  single  afternoon, 
or  at  most  in  a  day.  In  such  a  trip  could  be  included  the  southern 
Newtons,  Wellesley,  Natick,  Needham,  Waltham,  and  Watertown. 
The  territory  embraced  in  these  places  is  very  extensive ;  but  if, 
instead  of  describing  the  wide  arc  of  a  circle  including  them,  one 
traverses  several  chords  of  that  arc,  the  various  points  are  easily  and 
rapidly  covered. 

Essaying  first  the  southernmost  of  these  chords,  we  may  take  a  Boston 
&  Worcester  car  in  Park  Square,  thence  ride  out  through  Brookline 
and  Newton  via  Boylston  Street  and  its  continuations  in  Wellesley, 


120  NEWTON  AND  WELLESLEY 

almost  in  a  bee  line  to  Natick ;  or  we  may  take  a  blue  car  marked 
"  Natick  "  from  the  Subway,  passing  through  Commonwealth  Avenue 
and  the  Newton  Boulevard  to  Washington  Street,  Newton ;  thence 
to  the  left  through  Auburndale  and  the  "  Lower  Falls  "  to  the  same 
destination. 

If  we  choose  the  route  last  mentioned,  —  by  the  blue  car  marked 
"  Natick,"  —  our  course  from  the  intersection  of  the  Boulevard  and 
Washington  Street,  in  Newton,  is  up  quite  a  steep  rise,  past  the 
Woodland  Park  Hotel  on  the  right,  —  a  roomy,  wooden  building,  in 
wide-spreading,  shaded  grounds.  At  the  next  street  opening  above 
we  get  a  glimpse  of  the  large  building  of  the  Lasell  Seminary,  a  noted 
school  for  girls ;  and  a  little  farther  on  we  cross  the  track  of  the 
Newton  Circuit  steam  line,  the  Woodland  station  being  close  at  our 
right.  We  pass  attractive  houses  by  the  way,  nearly  all  surrounded 
by  generous  grounds  and  several  shaded  by  natural  forest  trees.  As 
we  cross  Beacon  Street  we  pass  the  Newton  Hospital,  an  excellent 
example  of  the  cottage  type  of  such  institutions,  standing  in  large  and 
well-kept  grounds. 

Our  course  continues  in  the  same  general  direction,  southwest,  to 
Newton  Lower  Falls,  a  small,  conventional  factory  village,  where  the 
water  power  of  the  Charles  River  has  been  utilized  to  propel  woolen 
mills  and  one  or  two  paper  mills  since  about  1790.  An  ancient  burying 
ground  here  contains  the  graves  of  Revolutionary  soldiers. 

At  this  point  we  cross  the  river  and  enter  the  town  of  Wellesley.  For 
the  rest  of  our  way  the  trolley  track  parallels  the  main  line  of  the  New 
York  Central  Railroad.  That  part  of  Wellesley  through  which  we  first 
pass  is  locally  known  as  " The  Farms"  though  the  village  and  railroad 
station  are  some  distance  to  our  right.  Wellesley  is  by  nature  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  towns  in  eastern  Massachusetts,  and  its  natural 
beauties  have  been  enhanced  by  the  art  of  the  landscape  architect. 

As  we  continue  along  Washington  Street,  to  our  left  rises  Maugus 
Hill,  three  hundred  feet  high,  on  top  of  which  is  the  town  reservoir. 
About  a  mile  from  the  town  line  we  pass  the  neat  stone  Wellesley  Hills 
station  of  the  steam  railroad,  which  just  above  has  made  its  way  through 
a  deep  rock  cutting  in  the  high  ledge.  Above  the  station  is  the  Welles- 
ley High  School  building.  Beyond  is  an  attractive  stone  church  (Uni- 
tarian). Nearly  a  mile  farther,  in  a  picturesque  inclosure  of  ten  acres, 
shaded  by  fine  trees  and  bordered  on  its  hither  side  by  a  gurgling  brook 
overhung  with  water  willows,  stands  the  Wellesley  Town  Hall  and  Public 
Library  building,  a  gift  to  the  town  by  the  late  H.  Hollis  Hunnewell, 
all  complete,  in  1881,  when  the  town  was  set  off  from  Needham  and 
incorporated  (its  name  being  taken  from  Mr.  HunnewelPs  notable  estate, 


WELLESLEY  121 

which  in  turn  was  named  from  Mrs  Hunnewell's  maternal  grandfather, 
Samuel  Welles,  who  about  1750  owned  the  place).  The  Town  Hall  is 
of  stone,  in  the  style  of  a  French  chateau,  with  porch  facing  the  square, 
surmounted  by  a  clock.  The  library  is  a  distinct  part  of  the  building, 
with  a  separate  entrance. 

A  short  distance  beyond  we  come  to  Wellesley  Square,  where  is  the 
Needham  trolley  line.  Here  carriages  may  be  taken  for  a  drive  to 
the  Hunnewell  estate,  which  is  generously  open  to  the  public.  An 
hour  may  profitably  be  given  to  visiting  it.  The  grounds  embrace  five 
hundred  acres,  of  which  sixty  acres  nearest  the  house  have  a  frontage 
on  the  beautiful  Lake  Waban,  named  for  the  Indian  chief  who  was 
Eliot's  first  convert.  Two  long  avenues  of  fine  trees  extend  from  the 
public  way  to  the  house,  on  one  side  of  which  is  a  vast  lawn,  on  the 
other  a  French  parterre,  or  architectural  garden.  Broad  flights  of  stairs 
lead  down  therefrom  to  the  parapet  wall  along  the  lake  front,  through 
successive  terraces  with  evergreens  on  either  side,  trimmed  into  various 
fanciful  forms.  Along  the  lake  shore  is  an  Italian  garden,  with  prim 
array  of  formal  clipped  trees.  Great  hedges  of  hemlock  and  arbor 
vitae,  fine  vistas  down  avenues  of  purple  beeches  and  white  pines, 
extensive  conservatories,  and  a  graceful  azalea  tent,  all  add  to  the 
charm  of  the  place. 

Near  by  is  the  Robert  G.  Shaw  estate,  a  picturesque  mansion  house 
set  among  fine  trees  and  surrounded  by  beautiful  lawns.  Not  far  away 
—  just  where  the  Charles  River  in  one  of  its  most  sinuous  bends  forms 
the  boundary  line  between  Wellesley  and  Dover  —  is  the  Cheney  place, 
country  seat  of  Mrs.  B.  P.  Cheney,  widow  of  a  pioneer  in  the  express 
business  of  America  and  in  transcontinental  railroads,  an  estate  of  two 
hundred  acres.  The  views  up  and  down  the  river  here  enhance  the 
natural  beauties  of  the  land,  which  is  highly  diversified.  The  estate  is 
laid  out  in  a  mingling  of  lawns,  flower  gardens,  woods,  groves,  meadows, 
and  fields.  The  five  great  elms  which  surround  the  house,  tradition 
says,  were  brought  from  Nonantum,  now  Newton,  and  planted  here  by 
one  of  the  friendly  Indian  tribe  whom  Eliot  taught.  The  lawn  of  six- 
teen acres,  inclosed  by  fine  hedges,  is  one  of  the  noteworthy  features. 

Still  farther  south  —  indeed  almost  at  the  southern  boundary  of  the 
town,  where  Ridge  Hill,  two  hundred  feet  high,  slopes  to  the  placid 
waters  of  Sabrina  Pond  —  is  the  famous  Ridge  Hill  farm,  of  eight  hun- 
dred and  seventy  acres.  This  attained  most  of  its  fame  during  the  life- 
time of  a  former  owner,  William  Emerson  Baker,  who  made  a  fortune  in 
sewing  machines,  and  who  delighted  in  giving  great  fetes  here  on  occa- 
sion, providing  for  the  amusement  and  mystification  of  his  guests  vari- 
ous surprises,  droll  and  bewildering,  sumptuous  feasts,  and  odd  sports. 


122  WELLESLEY   COLLEGE 

But  Wellesley's  chief  fame  lies  in  Wellesley  College,  for  women,  which 
crowns  the  rounded  hilltops  on  the  north  side  of  Waban  Lake,  toward 
which  its  300  acres  of  grounds  gently  slope.  On  the  lake  are  the  col- 
lege boathouses,  whence  on  "Float  Day"  go  forth  the  class  crews  of 
young  women  to  show  off  their  prowess  as  oarswomen  before  the 
admiring  gaze  of  relatives  and  friends  ashore.  The  college  is  at  the 
left  of  Central  Street,  through  which  our  car  continues  on  its  way  to 
Natick.  A  short  distance  beyond  the  square,  as  we  cross  Blossom 
Street,  we  catch  the  first  glimpse  of  the  buildings  and  pass  Fiske  Cot- 
tage at  one  of  the  entrances  to  the  grounds.  A  little  beyond,  the  white 
dome  and  low,  square  building  of  the  new  observatory  —  gift  of  Mrs. 
Sarah  E.  Whitin  of  Whitinsville  —  cap  a  gentle  hillock.  As  we  near 
the  North  Lodge,  opposite,  across  the  valley,  on  the  crest  of  a  fine  ridge, 
stands  College  Hall,  the  main  building,  designed  by  Hammatt  Billings. 
Its  ground  plan  is  a  double  Latin  cross,  and  its  facades  are  broken  by 
bays,  pavilions,  and  porches,  topped  by  towers  and  spires.  Within,  the 
great  central  hall  is  open  to  the  glass  roof,  eighty  feet  above.  In  this 
building  are  the  college  offices,  the  library,  the  original  chapel,  class  and 
lecture  rooms,  and  laboratories ;  also  dormitories  and  a  dining-room. 

Other  buildings  are  Stone  Hall,  gift  of  Mrs.  Valeria  G.  Stone  of 
Maiden,  devoted  to  botanical  work  and  dormitories,  on  another  knoll 
overlooking  the  lake ;  the  Farnsworth  Art  Building,  gift  of  Isaac  D. 
Farnsworth  of  Boston,  on  an  eminence  opposite  College  Hall;  the 
Music  Hall,  the  Memorial  Chapel,  gift  of  Miss  Elizabeth  G.  and  Mr. 
Clement  S.  Houghton  of  Boston ;  the  Chemistry  Building,  the  "  Barn," 
the  power  house  of  the  central  heating  and  lighting  plant,  and  eight 
cottages  for  dormitory  purposes.  The  main  avenue  winds  through 
woodland  and  meadow  from  College  Hall  to  the  East  Lodge  on  Wash- 
ington Street,  the  main  entrance  to  the  grounds. 

Wellesley  College  was  founded  by  the  Hon.  Henry  F.  Durant,  formerly  a 
conspicuous  member  of  the  Massachusetts  bar,  who  died  in  Wellesley  in  1881, 
aged  fifty-nine.  The  greater  part  of  his  fortune  was  devoted  to  its  establishment 
as  a  non-sectarian  institution  for  the  purpose  "  of  giving  to  young  women  oppor- 
tunities for  education  equivalent  to  those  usually  provided  in  colleges  for  young 
men."  In  this  work  he  had  the  ardent  cooperation  of  his  wife,  Mrs.  Pauline 
Adeline  (Fowle)  Durant,  who  continues,  since  his  death,  her  devotion  to  the  work 
which  jointly  they  planned.  The  college  was  chartered  in  1871  and  formally 
opened  in  1875.  The  scheme  of  its  founder  included  these  features :  a  faculty 
of  women  and  a  selected  board  of  trustees  composed  of  both  women  and  men, 
in  whom  the  property  of  the  college  and  its  official  control  should  be  vested. 

Our  car  passes  for  nearly  a  mile  along  the  northern  side  of  the  college 
estate,  and  at  the  farther  end  stands  another  lodge  at  its  western  entrance. 


NATICK  AND  NEEDHAM  123 


NATICK  AND  NEEDHAM 

We  continue  along  Central  Street  and  soon  cross  the  line  into  the 
town  of  Natick.  At  our  left  rises  Broad's  Hill,  three  hundred  feet 
high ;  at  our  right  is  the  railroad,  close  alongside.  We  reach  Natick 
station  in  fifteen  minutes  from  Wellesley  Square.  The  village  is  chiefly 
devoted  to  shoe  manufacturing.  Here  is  the  Morse  Institute  Library, 
founded  by  the  bequest  of  Mary  Ann  Morse,  who  died  in  1862.  It 
was  dedicated  on  Christmas  day,  1873.  Here  also  is  the  former 
homestead  of  Henry  Wilson,  the  "  Natick  cobbler,"  as  he  was  known  for 
many  years,  who  rose  from  the  shoemaker's  bench  to  the  Senate  of  the 
United  States  and  the  Vice  Presidency.  It  is  a  roomy,  plain  house  of 
wood,  painted  white,  standing  back  a  little  way  from  the  street,  under 
majestic  elms.  In  the  square  near  the  station  is  the  Soldiers'  Monument 
of  the  Civil  War,  flanked  by  brass  siege  guns. 

A  branch  trolley  line  runs  hence  to  Needham,  and  if  we  desire  to  see 
more  relics  of  the  Indian  apostle  Eliot,  we  may  take  the  car  to  South 
Natick,  only  a  mile  and  a  half  southeast.  On  the  way  we  pass  over 
Carver  Hill,  two  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high,  whence  a  splendid  view 
of  the  upper  Charles  River  country  is  gained.  In  the  South  Natick 
village  center  was  the  Eliot  Oak,  under  which,  tradition  says,  Eliot 
preached  his  first  sermon  to  his  then  newly  established  plantation  of 
praying  Indians,  in  1650.  Here  he  did  much  of  his  work  of  translating 
the  Bible  into  the  Indian  language  ;  and  here,  in  1651,  his  converts  built 
their  first  schoolhouse  and  church.  Here,  also,  are  to  be  seen  the  Eliot 
Monument,  set  up  by  the  citizens  in  1847,  an(i  tne  headstone  from  the 
grave  of  Daniel  Takawambait,  the  first  native  minister,  set  into  a  granite 
block  alongside  the  near-by  sidewalk.  The  Eliot  Church  (Unitarian) 
is  the  fifth  on  the  site  of  the  rude  structure  reared  by  the  red  men.  It 
is  a  typical  New  England  meetinghouse  of  the  early  nineteenth  century. 
It  has  no  connection,  except  by  name  and  location,  with  that  founded  by 
Eliot. 

South  Natick  is  said  to  have  been  the  original  Oldtown  of  Harriet 
Beecher  Stowe's  "  Oldtown  Folks." 

From  here  to  Needham,  about  five  miles,  the  route  lies  mostly  through 
a  smiling  farming  country.  We  cross  the  Charles  twice  within  a  mile, 
and  at  Charles  River  Village,  which  we  pass  midway,  its  waters  drive 
some  paper  mills.  Needham  is  a  quiet,  dignified  village  of  the  conven- 
tional type,  with  a  fine  new  high-school  building  and  one  or  two  other 
public  edifices  of  brick. 

Changing  here  to  a  car  for  Newton,  a  ride  of  a  mile  north  brings  us 
to  Highland ville,  the  north  village  of  Needham,  where  a  Carnegie  public 


124 


ECHO   BRIDGE 


library  has  lately  been  raised,  and  where  are  a  couple  of  shoe  factories. 
Two  miles  farther,  in  a  generally  northeasterly  direction,  the  trolley 
line  again  crosses  the  Charles  River,  which,  since  we  left  it  at  South 
Natick,  has  made  divagations  into  Dover  and  Dedham,  skirted  West 
Roxbury,  and  has  assumed  a  path  of  comparative  rectitude  as  the 
boundary  line  between  Needham  and  Newton. 


THE   SOUTHERN   NEWTONS 

The  railway  enters  the  factory  village  of  Newton  Upper  Falls,  and 
traverses  several  rather  depressing  streets  in  the  zigzags  necessary  for 
the  car  to  mount  the  lofty  brownstone  cliff  through  which  the  river  cut 
its  way  in  ages  past,  and  at  the  foot  of  which  the  village  nestles. 

It  will  interest  us  more  if  we  leave  the  car  just  before  it  crosses  the 


Rustic  Bridge  and  Cave,  Hemlock  Gorge 

bridge  and  take  the  path,  plainly  marked,  to  the  left,  into  Hemlock  Gorge, 
one  of  the  smallest  but  most  picturesque  of  the  Metropolitan  Park  Reser- 
vations. Its  area  is  only  about  twenty-four  acres,  but  it  includes  a  wild, 
rocky  chasm,  through  which  the  swift,  narrow  river  makes  its  way,  dense 
thickets,  and  a  grand  growth  of  old  hemlocks  towering  over  all.  This 
park  was  established  in  1895.  At  its  upper  end  is  the  famous  Echo 
Bridge,  perhaps  the  most  photographed  bit  of  masonry  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Boston.  It  is  a  finely  proportioned  structure,  reminding  one 
much  of  the  noted  Cabin  John  Bridge  near  Washington,  though  on  a 
smaller  scale.  It  is  the  means  by  which  the  aqueduct  from  the  Sudbury 
River  crosses  the  Charles  on  its  way  to  Boston.  We  may  walk  across  it, 
enjoying  the  attractive  outlook  over  the  river,  the  falls,  and  the  gorge. 


NEWTON   CENTER  125 

and  descend  by  the  stone  stairs  to  the  bank  of  the  stream  and  try  the 
remarkable  echoes  which  give  the  bridge  its  name.  From  the  northern 
end  of  the  bridge  a  narrow  plank  walk  between  two  houses  brings  us 
out  to  Chestnut  Street,  where  we  may  again  take  the  car,  which,  sweep- 
ing around  the  right,  along  the  edge  of  the  high  cliff,  gives  a  good  view 
of  the  village  at  its  foot. 

The  most  direct  route  from  Boston  to  Echo  Bridge  and  Hemlock  Gorge  is  by 
a  Boston  &  Worcester  trolley  car,  which  passes  over  the  Back  Bay,  through  Brook- 
line  and  Newton,  directly  to  the  upper  end  of  the  Gorge,  where  the  deep,  black 
water  sweeps  through  the  narrow  chasm  close  beside  the  track.  Alighting  here, 
one  can  explore  the  reservation  in  a  short  time.  By  this  route,  also,  it  is  a  delight- 
ful ride  to  Wellesley  Hills  (where  the  line  crosses  that  of  the  Natick  cars  by  which 
we  came  out),  and  so  on  to  Framingham  and  Worcester. 

Continuing  a  mile  or  so  farther,  in  the  same  general  direction,  we 
cross  the  tracks  of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad,  and  also  those  of 
the  Boston  &  Worcester  electric  railway,  at  the  neat  and  busy  village 
of  Newton  Highlands.  All  about  on  the  swelling  slopes,  in  attractive 
modern  houses,  dwell  many  of  Boston's  business  men.  Swinging  around 
to  the  left  into  Walnut  Street,  our  course  is  over  a  wooded  eminence 
thickly  studded  with  residences.  Descending  its  farther  slope,  we  pass 
on  our  left  the  Gothic  arched  entrance  of  the  Newton  Cemetery,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful,  by  nature  and  art,  of  any  around  Boston.  A  little 
farther  down  we  see,  away  to  our  left,  the  great  power  house  of  the  street 
railway  system. 

At  the  Newton  Boulevard,  where  is  a  commodious  waiting  room,  one 
may  transfer  to  cars  for  Boston  or  to  other  parts  of  Newton.  We  might 
take  a  side  trip  hence  to  Newton  Center  via  Homer  Street,  but  the  route 
is  not  particularly  attractive ;  a  better  way  to  that  pretty  village  is 
reached  by  taking  a  Boulevard  car  from  Boston,  and  changing  at  Centre 
Street.  This  route  passes  the  old  burying  ground  of  the  town,  where 
lie  the  first  settlers,  a  great  granite  monument  of  modern  date  bearing 
their  names.  Of  a  later  period  are  the  graves  of  heroes  of  the  French 
and  Indian  and  Revolutionary  wars,  —  Major  General  William  Hull, 
Brigadier  General  Michael  Jackson  and  sons,  officers  in  the  Revolu- 
tion, the  son  and  namesake  of  the  apostle  Eliot,  and  others  noted 
in  the  early  annals  of  the  town.  The  old  first  parish  church  formerly 
fronted  this  ground,  and  its  first  pastor  was  buried  here  in  1668.  At 
Newton  Center  are  many  beautiful  residences,  and  on  Institution  Hill 
stand  the  buildings  of  the  Newton  Theological  Institution,  founded  by 
the  Baptists  in  1826,  as  a  training  school  for  the  ministry.  Its  grounds 
are  extensive,  and  the  view  in  all  directions  is  inspiring.    Within  the  past 


126  NEWTONVILLE 

few  years,  under  the  presidency  of  the  Rev.  Nathan  E.  Wood,  D.D., 
much  money  has  been  added  to  the  funds  of  the  school,  a  new  library, 
chapel,  and  dormitories  have  been  built,  and  the  whole  hilltop  has  been 
laid  out  in  most  attractive  landscape  style.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  lies 
Crystal  Lake,  as  the  former  Wiswall's  Pond  is  known.  It  was  named 
from  old  Elder  Wiswall,  in  whose  homestead  it  was  included.  A  splen- 
did road  around  its  shores  is  one  of  the  attractions  of  "the  Center." 
The  stone  Baptist  church,  of  Romanesque  architecture,  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Boston  suburbs. 

But  our  car  is  bound  north,  to  Newtonville,  and  immediately  after 
crossing  the  Boulevard  we  pass  a  forest-covered  hill  on  the  left,  while 
to  our  right  is  a  deep,  shady  valley,  through  which  brawls  a  swift  brook 
down  rocky  ridges.  It  is  a  charming  section,  and  some  of  the  prettiest 
homes  of  the  city  are  along  this  way.  One  famous  estate  which  we 
soon  go  by  is  Brooklawn,  once  the  home  of  General  Hull,  of  Revolu- 
tionary fame  ;  since  1854  that  of  ex-Governor  William  Claflin,  who  has 
dispensed  hospitality  to  many  distinguished  guests  here.  Just  beyond, 
on  the  left,  is  the  stately  High  School ;  on  the  other  side,  the  Claflin 
School ;  and  again  on  the  left,  the  attractive  house  and  grounds  of  the 
Newton  Club.  A  little  farther  on  we  come  to  the  business  center  of 
Newtonville,  where  we  cross  the  New  York  Central  tracks  and  Wash- 
ington Street.  Here  change  may  be  made  for  Newton  proper  and  most 
of  the  other  villages.  Soon  we  turn  into  Watertown  Street  and  pass 
through  the  village  of  Nonantum,  where  on  the  left  are  the  Nonantum 
worsted  mills ;  also  a  tiny  pond,  bearing  the  lofty  title  of  Silver  Lake. 

In  a  few  minutes,  turning  sharply  to  the  right,  we  are  in  Galen 
Street,  in  the  small  corner  of  Watertown  lying  south  of  the  Charles, 
leading  to  the  broad  new  bridge,  replacing  an  old-time  one,  by  which 
we  are  to  cross  into  Watertown  Square. 

As  we  cross  the  bridge  we  observe  granite  tablets  on  either  side. 
These  were  erected  by  the  late  Professor  Eben  N.  Horsford,  one  of  them 
to  mark  his  Norsemen  sites,  —  that  on  the  left,  which  is  inscribed  "Out- 
look upon  the  stone  dam  and  stone-walled  docks  and  wharves  of  Norum- 
bega,  the  seaport  of  the  Northmen  in  Vineland."  The  other  has  this 
inscription  :  "  The  old  bridge  by  the  mill  crossed  Charles  River  near  this 
spot  as  early  as  1641." 

WALTHAM 

It  is  but  a  few  steps  to  Watertown  Square,  where  cars  from  Boston 
and  Cambridge  arrive  by  several  routes,  and  where  we  change  to  a  car 
for  Waltham.  Our  course  all  the  way  is  along  old  Main  Street,  to  the 
foot  of  Prospect  Hill,  at  the  terminus  of  the  route.     Here  we  alight 


WALTHAM  127 

and,  following  the  plain  directions  on  guideboards,  climb,  first  by  the 
street  crossing  the  Central  Massachusetts  Division  of  the  Boston  & 
Maine  Railroad,  and  afterward  by  a  winding  path  through  the  natural 
woodland  park  which  the  city  of  Waltham  has  made  of  the  upper  part 
of  the  hill,  to  its  summit.  From  the  outlook,  four  hundred  and  eighty- 
two  feet  above  sea  level,  —  the  highest  eminence  in  the  Metropolitan  dis- 
trict except  the  Great  Blue  Hill  in  Milton,  —  we  may  see  to  the  north,  on 
a  clear  day,  as  far  as  Kearsarge  (seventy-five  miles)  and  several  other 
mountains  of  southern  New  Hampshire  ;  as  well  as  Wachusett,  Watatic, 
and  Asnybumskit  in  central  Massachusetts.  The  view  embraces  all  the 
towns  within  a  radius  of  twenty  miles  or  more.  In  taking  this  noble 
hill  and  laying  it  out  as  a  reservation,  the  city  has  wisely  refrained 
from  "  fixing  it  up  "  or  making  it  a  "  parky  "  affair.  Its  wildness  and 
naturalness  are  its  chief  charms. 

Returning  to  Main  Street,  we  will  take  a  car  for  about  a  mile  east, 
passing  along  the  pleasant,  shaded  thoroughfare,  to  the  Common,  on 
which  stands  the  Soldiers'  Monument,  and  near  which  is  the  station  of 
the  Fitchburg  Division,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad.  A  branch  of  the 
trolley  company's  lines  to  Newton,  by  the  Moody  Street  bridge,  crosses 
the  Charles  Rive?'  just  south  of  the  Common.  On  our  way  down  from 
Prospect  Hill,  three  or  four  blocks  before  reaching  the  Common,  we 
pass  on  the  left  a  great  elm  on  the  corner  of  Upper  Main  Street  and 
Grant  Avenue,  which  bears  a  tablet  stating  that  General  Burgoyne's 
army  halted  under  its  branches  when  on  the  march  from  Saratoga  to 
Cambridge  in  1777. 

That  was  when  Burgoyne  and  his  men,  taken  prisoners  at  Saratoga, 
were  being  escorted  by  their  Continental  captors  to  imprisonment  on 
Prospect  Hill,  Somerville,  then  a  part  of  Charlestown.  One  division 
of  the  prisoners  came  this  way,  through  Lexington ;  the  other,  via 
Weston  and  Newton. 

The  great  works  of  the  American  Waltham  Watch  Company,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  for  Waltham  includes  in  its  limits  quite  a  slice 
of  trans-Charles  territory,  attract  many  visitors.  These  are  the  most 
extensive  watch-making  factories  in  the  world,  and  the  buildings  are 
not  only  immense  but  are  ornamental  in  design  and  surrounded  by 
handsome  grounds  adorned  with  flower  beds  and  shrubbery. 

Waltham  is  famous  also  as  having  been  the  birthplace  and  lifelong  home  of 
Nathaniel  Prentiss  Banks,  "  the  bobbin  boy  "  as  he  was  called  in  the  days  of  his 
early  political  successes,  who  became,  successively  and  rapidly,  inspector  in  the 
Boston  Custom  House,  member  of  the  legislature,  member  of  constitutional  con- 
vention, congressman  and  speaker  of  the  House  (after  a  contest  lasting  two 
months  and   requiring  one   hundred  and   thirty-two   ballots  to  decide  it),  all 


128  WATERTOWN 

before  he  was  forty ;  later,  governor  of  the  state,  major  general  of  volunteers  in 
the  Civil  War,  congressman  again,  and  United  States  Marshal. 

On  lower  Main  Street,  near  the  Watertown  line,  we  pass  on  the  left 
the  famous  old  Governor  Gore  house,  built  by  Christopher  Gore,  friend 
of  Washington,  governor  and  senator  of  Massachusetts,  and  donor  of 
the  Harvard  College  Library,  named  for  him  Gore  Hall.  It  is  a  sightly 
dwelling,  well  placed  on  a  gentle  slope  overlooking  the  street  and  shaded 
by  majestic  elms.  It  is  of  brick,  and  in  its  early  days  was  perhaps  the 
finest  of  suburban  residences.  It  is  still  preserved  in  its  original  char- 
acter by  the  family  of  the  late  Theophilus  W.  Walker,  who  for  many 
years  resided  here. 

WATERTOWN 

We  cross  the  boundary  of  Watertown  and  soon  are  at  the  village 
green,  to  the  left,  wThere  the  Soldiers'  Monument  stands,  and  there  is 
a  roomy  playground  for  the  children.  Just  beyond,  the  Public  Library, 
a  brick  building  with  pillars  in  front,  is  perhaps  the  most  noteworthy 
piece  of  modern  architecture  in  the  place. 

At  the  square  in  Watertown  Center,  the  choice  of  three  routes 
back  into  Boston  is  open  to  us :  via  North  Beacon  Street,  along  the 
river  into  Brighton  and  Allston ;  via  Arsenal  Street  and  Western 
Avenue  into  Central  Square,  Cambridge,  and  across  the  Harvard 
Bridge,  by  which  way  the  Charles  is  crossed  three  times ;  and  via 
Mount  Auburn  Street  and  Harvard  Square,  Cambridge.  The  first 
route  has  little  to  recommend  it  save  rather  pretty  river  views. 

The  second  is  the  proper  way  if  one  wishes  to  visit  the  United  States 
Arsenal,  a  collection  of  large  buildings  of  brick,  with  slate  roofs,  inclosed 
in  one  hundred  acres  of  grounds,  lying  between  Arsenal  Street  and  the 
river,  with  a  wharf  and  landing  just  below  the  North  Beacon  Street 
drawbridge.  Here  is  a  complete  equipment  of  machinery,  heavy  and 
fine,  for  the  manufacture  of  artillery,  projectiles,  and  gun  carriages. 
Permission  to  enter  and  view  the  works  is  easily  obtained  from  the 
commandant's  office.  Close  at  hand  also  are  the  yards  of  the  Water- 
town  Cattle  Market,  at  the  station  on  the  steam  railroad  known  as 
Union  Market. 

But  the  route  into  Boston  which  contains  most  of  historic  interest, 
as  well  as  attractiveness  of  surroundings,  is  that  by  Mount  Auburn 
Street,  wThich  diverges  from  the  square  to  the  left  of  the  other  two. 
Since  we  have  to  change  cars  here,  it  will  pay  us  to  walk  a  few  rods 
to  Marshall  Street,  turning  up  to  the  left  to  read  the  tablet  marking 
the  site  of  the  Marshall  Fowle  House,  in  which  General  Joseph  Warren 


WATERTOWN  129 

spent  the  night  before  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill.  James  Warren,  his 
successor  as  president  of  the  Provincial  Congress,  afterward  occupied 
this  Fowle  house,  and  here  his  wife  entertained  Mrs.  Washington  in 
1775,  when  on  her  way  from  Mount  Vernon  to  Cambridge  in  her  own 
coach  and  four,  with  negro  postilions  in  liveries  of  scarlet  and  white, 
a  guard  of  honor,  and  a  military  escort.  There  was  some  pomp  and 
gorgeousness  even  in  those  simple  and  primitive  republican  days. 

Next  beyond  Marshall  Street  (left)  is  Common  Street,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  points  in  our  journey,  for  here  is  the  old  burying 
ground  and  churchyard  of  the  fourth  meetinghouse  of  the  First  Parish. 
The  building  itself  was  demolished  in  1836,  and  its  successor  was  placed 
nearer  the  business  center  of  the  town.  In  this  old  church,  built  in 
1755,  were  held  the  Boston  town  meetings  during  the  Siege,  and  here 
—  as  a  massive  stone  tablet  against  the  fence  informs  —  sat  the  Pro- 
vincial Congress  from  April  22  to  July  19,  1775;  here  the  "Great  and 
General  Court,"  or  Assembly,  was  originated  and  held  its  sessions  from 
July  29,  1775,  to  November  9,  1776,  and  from  June  2  to  23,  1778.  In 
March,  1776,  this  church  was  selected  as  the  one  in  which  to  hold  the 
observance  of  the  Boston  Massacre,  when  the  oration  was  delivered  by 
the  Rev.  Peter  Thacher  of  Maiden,  on  "  The  Dangerous  Tendencies  of 
Standing  Armies  in  Times  of  Peace." 

Nearly  all  the  way  to  the  Cambridge  line  we  pass  pleasant  estates 
on  either  side ;  but  our  next  point  of  historic  interest  is  at  the  corner 
of  Grove  Street,  on  the  right,  where  the  old  burying  ground,  dating 
from  1642  and  originally  adjoining  the  first  meetinghouse  of  the 
settlement,  lies  directly  on  the  highway,  separated  from  it  only  by  a 
low  wall.  In  the  grass-grown  and  vine-covered  grounds  are  ancient 
gravestones  of  quaint  design,  the  earliest  date  being  1674. 

Here  stands  a  granite  obelisk,  presented  to  the  town  on  the  one 
hundredth  anniversary  of  the  contests  at  Lexington  and  Concord  by 
the  descendants  of  John  Coolidge,  the  one  Watertown  man  killed  in 
the  running  fight  with  the  British  flank  guard  near  Arlington  Heights. 

Continuing  toward  Cambridge  wTe  come  to  Belmont  Street  on  the 
left,  from  which,  if  we  choose,  we  may  walk  through  Coolidge  Street 
to  another  of  the  Norse  memorials  marked  by  Professor  Horsford  as  the 
amphitheater  or  assembly  place  of  those  earliest  discoverers.  It  is  a 
spacious,  natural,  semicircular  depression  in  the  earth,  its  sloping  sides 
broken  into  six  terraces  or  benches,  thickly  grass-grown. 

Returning  to  Mount  Auburn  Street  we  are  soon  by  the  Mount 
Auburn  station,  and  here  we  may  take  a  train  for  Boston  over  the 
Fitchburg  Division  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  or  a  trolley  car 
for  the  city  direct,  via  Harvard  Square,  Cambridge. 


130  MILTON 


MILTON   AND   THE   BLUE  HILLS 

The  quickest  way  to  reach  Milton  is  by  a  train  on  the  Milton  branch 
of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad,  leaving  the  South 
Station  at  twenty-three  minutes  past  each  hour  and  reaching  Milton 
station  in  about  twelve  minutes.  The  pleasantest  way  is  by  trolley  car 
(Ashmont  and  Milton)  from  the  Subway  via  Mount  Pleasant ;  or  by 
elevated  train  to  Dudley  Street  terminal,  thence  by  surface  car  to  Grove 
Hall  transfer  station,  and  changing  there  to  a  Milton  car  via  Washington 
Street,  Dorchester,  and  Codman  Hill.  Taking  this  last-mentioned  route 
we  have  a  particularly  fine  view  of  the  harbor  and  islands  from  the 
point  near  Melville  Avenue,  where  the  street  passes  over  one  shoulder 
of  Mount  Bowdoin.  We  also  pass  several  of  the  pleasantest  estates  in 
Dorchester,  and  the  old  Second  Parish  Church  (on  the  left  at  Norfolk 
and  Centre  streets),  dating  from  1807,  a  typical  New  England  meeting- 
house of  that  period.  Farther  on,  as  our  route  continues  over  Codman 
Hill,  past  the  old  Codman  mansion  house,  now  a  dairy  farmhouse,  we 
roll  along  under  noble  old  trees  and  have  a  taste  of  real  country  air 
from  the  hillside,  studded  with  buttercups  in  their  season. 

At  the  village  known  as  Milton  Lower  Mills,  though  the  larger  part 
of  it  is  on  the  Boston  side  of  the  Neponset  River,  the  Boston  street-car 
system  ends  and  other  lines  start  out,  —  for  Dedham  via  Hyde  Park, 
and  for  Brockton  via  Randolph,  connecting  at  both  points  with  lines  to 
other  places.  Whether  we  have  come  out  by  steam  or  electricity,  we 
shall  want  to  walk  about  a  little  here.  The  chief  industry  of  the  village 
is  the  manufacture  of  chocolate,  and  the  great  stone-trimmed  brick  build- 
ings of  the  Walter  Baker  Company  cover  a  large  space  on  both  sides 
of  the  river  and  utilize  its  considerable  water  power.  From  the  bridge 
one  gets  a  view  on  the  left  of  the  slight  falls  ;  and  in  a  rock  rising  above 
the  water  is  set  a  bolt  bearing  a  tablet  with  an  inscription  recording 
that  the  tide  of  April  16,  1851,  reached  the  top  of  the  bolt.  This  was 
the  famous  high  tide  of  the  storm  which  destroyed  the  Minot's  Ledge 
lighthouse,  and.  was  six  feet  eight  and  one-half  inches  above  the  average 
high  water,  here  about  ten  feet. 

Only  a  little  way  beyond  the  bridge,  on  the  Milton  side,  —  a  short 
flight  of  steps  up  from  the  Milton  steam  railroad  station  brings  us 
directly  to  it,  —  stands  the  "Suffolk  Resolves"  house,  shaded  by  three 
venerable  English  elms,  which  has  been  called  the  "  birthplace  of  Amer- 
ican liberty."  It  is  a  two-story  yellow,  double  house,  of  which  one  half 
is  now  devoted  to  a  watchmaker's  shop.  Beside  the  pillared  portico  a 
marble  tablet  bears  an  inscription  in  antique  Roman  characters,  relating 
the  history  of  the  Suffolk  Resolves,  which,  adopted  in  this  mansion  by 


MILTON    HILL  131 

delegates  from  the  Suffolk  County  towns  September  9,  1774,  "led  the 
way  to  American  Independence." 

At  the  time  of  the  convention  the  house  was  the  mansion  of  Daniel  Vose, 
the  great  man  of  the  section,  owner  of  several  of  the  industries  of  the  town 
—  his  chocolate  mills,  founded  in  1765,  were  the  first  in  the  colonies  —  and  a 
zealous  patriot.  The  convention  was  composed  of  delegates  from  the  nineteen 
towns  then  comprised  in  Suffolk  County,  which  also  included  all  now  embraced 
in  Norfolk  County.  They  had  held  their  first  session  in  the  old  Woodward 
Tavern  at  Dedham  a  day  or  two  before.  Paul  Revere  was  the  messenger  who 
carried  the  Resolves  to  Philadelphia. 

Continuing  up  the  gentle  slope  of  Adams  Street  we  pass  several  old- 
time  houses  on  either  side  of  the  road.  One  on  the  right,  just  where 
Canton  and  Randolph  avenues  branch  off,  was  in  early  days  the  Rising 
Sun  Tavern.  Canton  Avenue  is  the  direct  route  by  the  Great  Blue  Hill 
to  Canton,  while  Randolph  Avenue  cuts  through  the  Blue  Hills  Reserva- 
tion farther  south,  and  continues  on  to  Randolph  and  Brockton.  A 
line  of  trolley  cars  (of  the  Old  Colony  system)  diverging  to  the  right 
lower  down  the  slope,  at  Central  Avenue,  skirts  the  base  of  the  hill, 
passes  through  Milton  Center,  and  comes  out  in  Randolph  Avenue 
before  reaching  the  Reservation,  affording  an  easy  means  of  arriving  at 
this  great  pleasure  ground,  —  the  largest  of  the  Metropolitan  system. 

But  there  are  reasons  for  prolonging  our  walk  a  little  farther  up 
Milton  Hill,  on  Adams  Street.  All  along  the  way  are  fine  old  estates 
which  have  been  handed  down  from  generation  to  generation  of  fami- 
lies noted  in  local  —  and  some  in  national  —  annals.  On  the  left  side 
a  pleasantly  situated  villa  is  the  home  of  Mrs.  A.  D.  T.  Whitney, 
though  her  early  home,  in  which  her  first  works  were  written,  was  in 
Milton  village.  A  few  steps  beyond,  on  the  right,  stands  a  house  of 
modern  exterior,  well  back  from  the  street,  in  whose  fabric  is  incor- 
porated the  historic  house  of  Governor  Hutchinson,  his  country  seat. 
To  this  house  he  withdrew  at  the  time  of  the  closing  anti-tea  meetings 
in  the  Old  South  Meetinghouse  in  Boston ;  and  it  was  from  this 
house  that  he  started  on  his  final  voyage  to  England  in  June,  1774, 
never,  as  it  fell  out,  to  return.  Its  situation  is  indeed  a  most  pleasant 
one,  as  he  described  it  to  George  III,  and  the  view  which  it  commands 
across  the  meadow  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  is  yet  an  exceptionally  fine 
prospect.  It  is  gratifying  to  observe  that  the  great  field  in  front,  on 
the  lower  side  of  the  street,  has  been  taken  for  a  public  reservation,  as 
Governor  Hutchinson's  Field,  so  that  the  lovely  prospect  is  safe  from  the 
obstruction  of  buildings. 

Hutchinson's  vast  estate  was  confiscated  in  the  Revolution  and  was 
subsequently  sold.     Since  1829  it  has  been  in  the  Russell  family. 


132  MILTON 

At  the  top  of  the  hill  the  old  Dr.  Holbrook  mansion,  built  in  1801, 
is  noted  for  having  been  the  scene  of  a  brilliant  entertainment  to 
Lafayette  during  his  last  visit  to  America,  in  1824.  Beyond  are  the 
extensive  estates  so  long  associated  with  the  Forbes  family,  —  John  M., 
the  master  spirit  of  the  Chicago,  Burlington  &  Quincy  Railroad  for 
many  years  ;  J.  Malcolm,  equally  noted  in  connection  with  the  American 
Bell  Telephone  Company ;  Captain  Robert  B.  and  J.  Murray  Forbes ; 
also  the  fine  country  seat  of  the  late  Oliver  W.  Peabody  of  the  Boston 
banking  house  of  Kidder,  Peabody  &  Co. ;  and  farther  on  the  summer 
place  of  his  partner,  the  late  Henry  P.  Kidder. 

At  the  old  "  Algerine  Corner"  —  now  commonplace  Union  Square  — 
a  road  on  the  right  diverges  to  the  town  center.  At  Otis  Street,  a  little 
beyond,  was,  in  provincial  times,  the  estate  of  the  royal  governor,  Jonathan 
Belcher,  bought  by  him  about  1 728,  and  his  country  seat  during  his  service 
of  about  eleven  years.  It  was  he  who  placed  along  the  road  to  Boston 
the  Belcher  milestones,  one  of  which  is  to  be  seen  in  the  wall  of  the 
Peabody  place,  bearing  the  legend  "  8  miles  to  B  Town  House.  The 
Lower  way.     1734-" 

Adams  Street  continues  through  the  square  past  East  Milton,  a  half 
mile  farther  on,  a  bustling  village,  its  trade  having  a  granite  foundation, 
—  quite  naturally,  for  it  adjoins  West  Quincy,  where  are  the  quarries 
which  give  to  Quincy  the  title  of  "  the  granite  city."  We  might  pro- 
long our  walk  to  East  Milton  and  there  take  a  car  to  Quincy,  only  three 
and  a  half  miles  distant.  It  would  be  better,  however,  to  look  over 
the  northern  part  of  Milton  and  go  to  Quincy  by  another  route.  From 
Union  Square,  Centre  Street  runs  "  cross  town  "  to  Randolph  Avenue, 
which  we  left  at  the  beginning  of  our  walk.  By  way  of  Centre  Street 
a  walk  of  some  three  quarters  of  a  mile  would  bring  us  to  the  old 
Town  Cemetery,  where  rest  the  forefathers  of  many  present  citizens, 
the  oldest  gravestone  bearing  date  of  1687.  The  Ministerial  Tomb  is 
near  the  entrance,  and  has  a  quaint  inscription  setting  forth  that  it  is 
"  to  be,  abide  and  remain  forever "  as  such.  The  names  of  the  first 
minister,  Peter  Thacher,  who  died  in  1727,  his  wife  Susanna,  and 
several  succeeding  ministers  and  their  families  are  inscribed  on  the 
upright  slab.  Near  the  middle  of  this  burying  ground  is  a  monument 
which  attracts  the  most  attention.  This  is  the  granite  bowlder  over  the 
grave  of  Wendell  Phillips  and  his  wife.  Phillips  died  February  2,  1884, 
and  his  body  was  first  placed  in  the  Phillips  family  tomb  in  the  Old 
Granary  Burying  Ground,  Boston,  but  after  the  death  of  Mrs.  Phillips, 
two  years  later,  it  was  removed  hither.  The  inscription  on"  the  bowlder 
was  written  by  him  and  it  attests  the  simplicity  and  the  chivalry  of 
the  man: 


BLUE   HILLS   RESERVATION 


*33 


Ann  and  Wendell  Phillips. 

Died  April  24,  1886 February  2,  li 

Aged  73.  Aged  73. 


Passing  through  the  burying  ground  we  emerge  near  Randolph 
Avenue,  where  stands  the  famous  old  Milton  Academy,  founded  in 
1 805-1 806,  and  a  good  type  of  the  New  England  academy  of  that 
epoch  modernized.  A 
little  farther  on,  at 
White  Street,  we  reach 
Milton  Center,  or  Milton 
Churches,  as  this  sec- 
tion is  more  generally 
known,  the  group  of 
buildings  set  in  the 
pleasant  square  and 
shaded  by  lofty  elms. 
The  twin  chttrches,  as 
the  local  title  goes,  are 
the  Unitarian  (succes- 
sor of  the  original  First 
Parish  Church)  and  the 
East  Church  (Evangeli- 
cal Congregational), 
founded  in  1834,  when 
the  great  schism  in 
New  England  theology 
took  place.  Between 
them  stands  the  Town 
House  and  at  one  side 
the  high  school.  A  fine 
Public  Libj-ary  of  brick 
with  granite  trimmings  is  near  completion  close  by. 

Here  we  may.  take  the  car  which  has  come  around  through  Central 
Avenue  and  now  makes  in  a  southeasterly  direction  for  Randolph  Avenue, 
which  it  follows  for  nearly  a  mile  before  the  edge  of  the  Blue  Hills  Reserva- 
tion is  reached.  Through  the  Reservation  it  runs  for  nearly  two  miles. 
Crossing  the  range  between  Chickatawbut  Hill  on  the  left  and  Hancock 
Hill  on  the  right,  one  has  a  fine  view  over  much  of  the  chain  of  emi- 
nences, Great  Blue  Hill,  away  beyond  Hancock,  with  the  weather 
observatory  and  kite-flying  station  on  its  summit,  being  in  plain  sight  for 
a  considerable  distance. 


Observatory,  Great  Blue  Hill 


134  MATTAPAN  AND   THE   NEPONSET 

From  near  the  "  twin  churches  "  Thacher  Street  runs  northwesterly 
for  about  a  mile  (past  the  site  of  the  house  built  in  1689  by  the  Rev. 
Peter  Thacher,  first  minister  of  the  town)  to  the  Blue  Hill  Parkway 
of  the  Metropolitan  system,  which  leads  into  the  western  (or  Great 
Blue)  section  of  the  Reservation.  The  trolley  line,  which  funs  through 
the  parkway  for  a  short  distance,  then,  diverging,  follows  Blue  Hill  and 
Canton  avenues  south  to  Canton  and  Stoughton,  furnishes  a  speedy 
means  of  reaching  the  Great  Blue  Hill.  The  car  leaves  one  at  a  point 
where  an  easy  foot  path  —  cut  through  the  woods  from  the  old  bridle 
path  to  the  summit  —  emerges  upon  Canton  Avenue. 

It  is  a  pretty  walk  along  the  broad  and  shaded  parkway  to  the  river, 
which  here  is  spanned  by  a  new  stone  bridge,  built  by  the  Metropolitan 
Park  Board.  Crossing  it  we  are  in  Mattapan,  the  most  southwesterly 
village  of  the  Dorchester  District,  Boston,  whence  we  have  a  choice  of 
ways  for  the  return  journey,  —  street  cars  via  Blue  Hill  Avenue  and 
Franklin  Park,  trains  over  the  Milton  branch  from  a  station  close  by 
the  river,  or  over  the  Midland  Division,  station  half  a  mile  north,  at  the 
crossing  of  Blue  Hill  Avenue.  The  Milton  branch  route  takes  us  for 
two  or  three  miles  alongside,  and  twice  across,  the  picturesque  Neponset, 
whose  shores  are  now  protected  by  the  Metropolitan  Board,  and  amid 
whose  wooded  nooks  one  catches  a  glimpse  of  a  rustic  footbridge  and 
the  sheen  of  a  little  waterfall. 

QUINCY 

Quincy  is  quite  easy  of  access  either  by  train  or  trolley.  By  train 
from  the  South  Station  (Plymouth  Division,  New  York,  New  Haven  & 
Hartford  Railroad)  the  distance  is  eight  miles  and  the  fare  fifteen  cents. 
By  electric  car  from  Washington  and  Franklin  streets  to  Neponset 
Bridge,  or  by  the  Ashmont  and  Milton  line  to  Field's  Corner,  there 
transferring  to  the  Neponset  car,  —  and  from  Neponset  Bridge  to 
Quincy,  —  the  distance  is  about  the  same,  and  the  fare  is  ten  cents. 
By  either  way  the  route  is  similar,  —  out  through  South  Boston  and 
the  bay  side  of  the  Dorchester  District  to  the  village  of  Neponset 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river  (after  crossing  which  we  are  in  the  bounds 
of  the  city  of  Quincy),  but  a  short  distance  from  the  station  and  village 
of  Atlantic,  after  which  follow  Norfolk  Downs,  Wollaston,  and  Quincy 
Center,  —  all  within  three  miles.  The  tracks  of  the  steam  and  electric 
roads  run  parallel  and  close  to  each  other  most  of  the  way. 

Arrived  at  Quincy,  all  the  places  of  historic  interest  are  within  a  short 
radius.  Right  at  the  square,  where  the  trolley  line  connects  with  other 
lines  for  the  Weymouths,  Brockton,  and  elsewhere,  and  within  a  gunshot 


QUINCY 


"35 


of  the  railroad  station,  stands  the  "Granite  Temple,"  as  the  present 
First  Parish  Church,  built  in  1828,  is  called,  from  a  phrase  in  the  will 
of  John  Adams,  who,  in  leaving  to  the  town  certain  granite  quarries, 
enjoined  upon  his  townsmen  to  build  "  a  temple  "  to  receive  his  remains. 
His  injunction  was  well  obeyed.  The  structure,  with  its  front  Doric 
pillars  supporting  a  pediment  and  square  tower  with  colonnaded  belfry 
crowned  by  a  dome,  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  first 
half  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Its  interior  is  dignified.  The  mural 
monuments  here  commemorate  the  two  Presidents  of  the  Adams  family 
and  their  wives,  and  the  tablets 
are  to  the  memory  of  John  Wheel- 
wright, the  first  minister,  banished 
for  "  heresy  "  with  Coddington, 
Anne  Hutchinson,  and  others, 
and  to  other  later  pastors. 

In  the  basement  beneath  the 
church  are  the  tombs  of  the  two 
Presidents  and  their  wives  in 
granite  sarcophagi.  Application 
to  the  sexton  and  the  payment 
of  a  modest  fee  prescribed  by 
the  church  enables  the  visitor  to 
descend  into  the  electrically 
lighted  vault  and,  through  a  doorway  protected  by  a  grille,  to  gaze  upon 
the  tombs.  On  either  side  of  the  doorway  are  inscriptions  on  marble 
tablets. 

The  body  of  the  ancient  black  hearse  in  which  the  remains  of  the 
Presidents  were  conveyed  is  also  preserved  in  this  basement  in  a  glass 
case. 

Across  the  way  from  the  church  is  the  granite  City  Hall,  and  close 
by  is  the  old  burying  ground  where  are  the  graves  of  the  early  min- 
isters of  the  parish,  among  them  John  Hancock,  father  of  the  famous 
"signer"  and  governor;  the  tombs  of  Dr.  Leonard  Hoar,  third  presi- 
dent of  Harvard  College,  and  his  wife  and  mother;  of  Henry  Adams, 
immigrant  ancestor  of  the  Adams  family ;  of  John  Quincy  Adams,  in 
which  his  body  was  placed  before  removal  to  the  church  opposite ;  of 
the  first  of  the  Quincys  —  Edmond ;  and  of  Josiah  Quincy,  Jr.,  who 
at  thirty-one  years  of  age  died,  in  1775,  on  the  ship  which  was  bringing 
him  back  from  his  mission  to  England  in  behalf  of  the  patriots. 

Near  by,  on  Washington  Street,  is  the  fine  Crane  Public  Library,  and 
not  far  away,  on  Hancock  Street,  the  Adams  Academy,  founded  by  a  gift 
to  the  town  in  1822  by  President  John  Adams,  and  opened  in  1872  —  a 


Home  of  Dorothy  Quincy 


136  ADAMS   FAMILY 

classical  school  of  high  order.  On  Adams  Street,  which  diverges  to  the 
west  and  continues  through  to  West  Quincy  and  Milton,  stands  the 
famous  Adams  mansion,  originally  the  country  seat  of  Leonard  Vassall, 
a  West  Indian  planter  and  a  royalist  like  all  of  his  name.  Sequestered 
in  the  Revolution,  it  became  the  home  of  President  John  Adams  from 
1787  till  his  death.  In  it  were  celebrated  his  golden  wedding  and  the 
weddings  of  his  son,  President  John  Quincy  Adams,  and  of  his  grand- 
son, Charles  Francis  Adams,  Sr.,  once  minister  to  Great  Britain.  It  is 
now  occupied  by  the  great-grandson,  Brooks  Adams,  and  much  of  the 
interior  finish  and  furniture  is  retained. 

On  Hancock  Street,  facing  Bridge  Street,  is  the  old  Quincy  mansion 
house,    containing    some    part    of    the    original   dwelling    of   Edmond 

Quincy,  built  about  1634,  and  dating 
itself  from  1705.  Here  was  bom 
Dorothy  Quincy,  the  original  of  Dr. 
Holmes's  poem,  "Dorothy  Q.,"  whose 
granddaughter  was  the  poet's  mother. 
Another  Dorothy  Quincy,  descendant 
of  the  first,  was  the  wife  of  John 
Hancock. 

From  the  square,  in  a  southeastern 
Birthplace  of  John  Adams  direction,  we  walk  or  take  a  Brockton 

car  past  the  old  burial  ground  of  Christ 
Church,  Braintree  (the  present  city  of  Quincy  was  part  of  Braintree  from 
1640  to  1792),  in  whose  grass-grown  mounds  repose  many  of  the  early 
settlers. 

At  the  corner  of  Independence  Street  and  Franklin  Avenue  the  car 
passes  two  time-stained  houses  standing  close  together,  restored  and 
maintained  as  sacred  memorials,  to  which  the  attention  of  more  visitors 
is  turned  than  to  any  other  buildings  in  Quincy.  The  older  and  smaller 
house  is  the  birthplace  of  John  Adams.  The  other  and  larger  house, 
with  the  old  well  sweep  in  the  back  yard,  is  the  birthplace  of  John  Quincy 
Adams.  It  was  presented  by  the  present  Hon.  Charles  Francis  Adams 
to  the  Quincy  Historical  Society,  which  has  restored  it  to  its  original 
condition  and  made  it  a  museum  of  historic  relics. 

Much  of  the  early  history  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay  Colony  is  related 
to  this  old  town,  notably  Mount  Wollaston,  the  high  ground  at  the  next 
station  on  the  way  into  Boston.  It  was  the  "  Merrymount "  of  Thomas 
Morton,  whose  revels  with  his  crew  of  graceless  roysterers  and  his  may- 
pole, set  up  in  1627,  caused  his  banishment  by  the  stern  Puritan  elders. 
The  zealous  antiquarian  might  spend  days  in  tracing  out  the  historic 
sites  and  in  viewing  the  historic  mansions  of  Quincy. 


DEDHAM  137 


DEDHAM 


Dedham  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  suburban  towns,  and  was  at  first 
one  of  the  most  extensive.  Its  territory,  allotted  by  the  General  Court 
in  1635  to  twenty-two  proprietors,  who  had  moved  hither  from  Water- 
town  and  Roxbury  a  few  months  before,  embraced  nearly  all  of  the  pres- 
ent Norfolk  County.  In  August  they  had  signed  a  "  town  covenant  " 
binding  them  to  "walk  in  a  peaceful  conversation"  and  to  establish  "a 
loving  and  comfortable  society."  The  name  they  proposed  for  their 
settlement  was  Contentment.  The  General  Court,  however,  overruled 
their  choice  and  gave  the  new  parish  the  title  of  Dedham  from  the 
English  town  whence  several  of  the  settlers  had  come.  It  is  a  quiet, 
dignified  old  town,  with  majestic  trees  shading  its  streets,  many  old  man- 
sions, and  picturesque  river  views.  The  Charles  River,  with  its  "  Great 
Bend,"  encircles  the  northern  end  of  the  town,  and  the  Neponset  River 
is  on  its  eastern  border.  The  two  streams  are  connected  by  "  Mother 
Brook,"  the  oldest  canal  in  the  country,  dug  by  the  enterprising  colo- 
nists in  1 639-1 640.  Several  lofty  hills  break  the  surface  of  the  town, 
and  there  are  beautiful  drives  and  trolley  rides  in  several  directions  — 
notably  to  Westwood  (formerly  West  Dedhar  ,  three  miles  from  the 
center.  The  main  street  is  High  Street,  running  nearly  east  and  west 
through  the  village  and  then  turning  off  sharply  to  the  southwest  on 
its  way  to  Westwood  and  Medway.  Along  this  street  are  scattered 
most  of  the  historic  monuments. 

We  reach  Dedham  by  train  over  the  Providence  Division,  New 
York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad  (though  we  could  go  in  an 
electric  car  from  Forest  Hills),  and  alight  at  the  stone  station,  with  its 
imposing  clock  tower,  at  the  center  of  the  village.  One  block  away  is 
the  granite  Memorial  Hall,  serving  the  double  purpose  of  a  town  house 
and  a  monument  to  the  soldiers  of  the  town  who  served  in  the  Civil 
War.  On  the  corner  of  Church  Street,  next  above,  is  the  low-arched 
brick  building  of  the  Dedham  Historical  Society,  with  an  interesting  col- 
lection of  antiquities  and  documents.  On  the  right-hand  side  of  High 
Street,  a  little  farther  on,  is  the  old  Dr.  Nathaniel  Ames  house,  the  home 
of  the  famous  almanac  maker  from  1772  to  his  death,  fifty  years  later. 
Just  beyond  stood  till  1897  the  Fisher  Ames  house,  the  home  of 
Nathaniel's  distinguished  brother.  This  is  now  removed  to  River 
Place,  and  with  enlargements  and  improvements  has  become  the  home 
of  Frederick  J.  Stimson,  author  and  lawyer. 

On  the  next  street  at  the  right,  Ames  Street,  is  the  site  of  the  old  Wood- 
ward Tavern,  dating  from  1658,  where  met  the  Suffolk  Convention  in 
1774,  which  at  its  adjourned  meeting  in  the  Vose  mansion  at  Milton 


138 


COURT  HOUSE  AND   FAIRBANKS   HOUSE 


adopted  the  Suffolk  Resolves.  Just  above  Ames  Street  on  High  Street 
is  the  mansion  house  built  in  1795  by  Judge  Samuel  Haven,  in  front  of 
which  are  several  stately  English  elms  brought  from  England  in  1762, 
still  vigorous  and  full  of  foliage.  Opposite  is  the  granite  Court  House, 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  for  Dedham  is  the  shire  town  of  Norfolk  County. 
Next  beyond  the  Court  House  is  the  ancient  Village  Green,  in  the 
corner  of  which  stands  the  locally  famous  "Pitt's  Head,"  or  Pillar  of 
Liberty,  a  square  granite  pedestal  about  two  feet  high,  which  formerly 
was  surmounted  by  a  tall  wrooden  column  and  a  bust  of  William  Pitt. 
It  was  erected  July  22,  1767.  A  bronze  tablet  on  its  eastern  face, 
placed  in  1886,  on  the  two  hundred  and  fiftieth  anniversary  of  the 
town,  gives  its  history. 

At  the  upper  end  of  the  Green  stands  the  Unitarian  Church,  built  in 
1763,  the  third  in  succession  from  the  original  parish   meetinghouse 

built  in  1638.  Just  across 
High  Street  is  the  First 
Congregational  Church,  also 
ancient  and,  like  the  other, 
in  the  conventional  Wren 
style.  Along  both  sides  of 
the  street  for  some  distance 
are  houses  mostly  dating 
from  the  late  eighteenth  and 
early  nineteenth  centuries, 
very  comfortable  looking, 
with  their  ample  lawns 
shaded  by  great  elms. 
Two  objects  of  special  historic  interest  are  easily  reached  by  a  short 
walk  from  the  center.  Along  Eastern  Avenue,  which  runs  south  from 
the  railroad  station  and  curves  around  through  rows  of  water  willows  to 
East  Street,  is  the  way  to  the  Fairbanks  house,  one  of  the  oldest  houses 
in  the  country.  It  wTas  built  about  1650  by  Jonathan  Fairbanks,  to 
whom  the  lands  surrounding  it  were  allotted  in  1637.  In  1896  it  was 
purchased  by  Mrs.  J.  Amory  Codman  and  daughter  of  Boston,  to  save  it 
from  destruction.  Previous  to  that  time  it  had  always  been  owned  by 
a  Fairbanks.  In  1903  the  "  Fairbanks  Family  in  America  "  being  incor- 
porated, acquired  the  property  to  be  kept  permanently  in  the  family  as 
an  historic  home. 

The  other  historic  relic,  only  a  short  distance  from  the  Fairbanks 
house,  is  the  "  Avery  oak."  It  is  a  great  tree,  older  than  the  town,  with 
a  circumference,  five  feet  from  the  ground,  of  sixteen  feet.  Its  owner 
at  the  time  is  said  to  have   refused  seventy  dollars  for  it  from  the 


Old  Fairbanks  House 


WINTHROP  139 

builders  of  the  Constitution,  who  desired  it  for  timber  for  "  Old  Iron- 
sides." It  is  still  sturdy  and  thrifty.  It  has  been  secured  for  preservation 
by  the  Dedham  Historical  Society. 

WINTHROP  AND  REVERE 

Winthrop  alone  among  the  northern  suburbs  of  Boston  is  without  a 
trolley  line,  and  that  it  has  none  is  due  to  the  excellent  service  afforded 
by  the  Winthrop  circuit  of  the  Boston,  Revere  Beach  &  Lynn  Railroad. 
The  ferry  house  and  station  of  this  railroad  are  at  Rowe's  Wharf, 
directly  opposite  the  elevated  railway  station  of  the  same  name.  The 
ferryboats  leave  every  fifteen  minutes  daily,  connecting  with  trains  at 
Jeffries  Point,  on  the  East  Boston  side  of  the  harbor;  and  the  fare  to 
any  of  the  nine  stations  in  Winthrop  is  but  five  cents.  The  line  makes 
a  loop  around  the  town,  reaching  every  section  of  it,  and  the  trains 
alternate  in  direction. 

Winthrop  is  an  ancient  settlement  but  a  comparatively  modern  town. 
For  nearly  a  century  after  the  first  settlement  its  territory  belonged  to 
Boston,  but  in  1739  it  became  a  part  of  Chelsea.  In  1846  it  was  joined 
to  Revere  (the  Rumney  Marsh  of  early  days)  to  form  the  new  town 
of  North  Chelsea.  It  became  an  independent  town  six  years  later, 
taking  the  name  of  Winthrop  in  commemoration  of  Deane  Winthrop, 
sixth  son  of  Governor  John  Winthrop,  who  lived  here  for  many 
years  in  a  house  still  preserved,  and  here  died  about  1703  or  1704, 
aged  81.  The  first  name  of  the  hamlet  was  Pullen  Poynt,  but  the 
year  1753  saw  the  establishment  of  a  codfishery  station  at  the 
extreme  eastern  end,  and  the  "  syndicate "  which  promoted  that 
enterprise  rechristened  the  place  Point  Shirley,  from  the  governor  of 
the  Province.  The  fishery  "  trust "  proved  a  failure,  but  Point  Shirley 
was  found  to  be  so  pleasant  that  a  number  of  Boston  families  built  coun- 
try houses  here,  the  Hancocks  among  the  rest.  A  roomy  brick  house 
still  standing  at  this  point  of  the  town,  which  retains  the  name  of  Point 
Shirley,  is  by  some  assumed  to  have  been  John  Hancock's  house,  but 
this  is  doubtful.  In  later  days  the  present  Point  Shirley  became  noted 
through  "  Taft's,"  a  hostelry  famous  for  its  fish  and  game  dinners,  now 
only  a  memory.  Until  about  1876  Winthrop  remained  a  slumbrous  farm- 
ing town  within  five  miles  of  the  city  across  the  harbor  but  known  only 
to  the  few.  Then  it  was  rediscovered,  and  the  building  of  the  narrow- 
gauge  railroad  made  it  easy  of  access.  With  the  advent  of  this  railroad 
a  beach  settlement  was  laid  out,  streets  with  nautical  names  were  cut 
through,  and  lots  were  sold  off.  A  colony  of  summer  cottages  sprang 
up  in  a  season  or  two,  and  "  Ocean  Spray  "  and  "  Cottage  Hill "  became 


140 


WINTHROP    BEACH 


familiar  names.  In  course  of  time  substantial  houses  to  a  large  extent 
replaced  the  shells  first  erected ;  a  beautiful,  broad  boulevard,  with  walks 
on  each  side,  was  built  by  the  Metropolitan  Parks  Commission  along 
the  ocean  front  where  had  been  a  town  way  known  as  "  The  Crest " 
(destroyed  by  a  gale  in  November,  1898)  ;  and  the  old  farms  of  the 
inland  part  of  the  town  became  thickly  covered  with  residences. 

The  fine  half-moon  sweep  of  the  Winthrop  Beach,  something  more 
than  a  half  mile  in  length,  is  crowned  at  either  end  by  a  high  bluff :  that 
to  the  seaward,  the  Great  Head  of  old,  now  trivially  named  "  Cottage 

Hill " ;  and  that  at  the  north- 
ern end,  Grover's  Cliff,  now 
occupied  by  Fort  Heath, 
a  strong  work,  mounting 
several  twelve-inch  rifled 
guns,  which  was  rushed  to 
completion  during  the  Span- 
ish war.  Inland  a  little 
way  is  Fort  Banks,  with  its 
sixteen  breech-loading  mor- 
tars and  an  extensive  group 
of  buildings,  sufficient  for  a 
large  army  post. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  Ciystal  Bay,  which  almost  isolates  the  beach 
section  from  the  "  old  town,"  is  the  Winthrop  Yacht  Clubhouse.  The 
railroad  loop  crosses  this  bay  by  a  long  bridge  with  a  draw  at  the 
channel.  One  may  spend  an  afternoon  pleasantly  by  taking  a  train  to 
Winthrop  Center  and  walking  over  to  the  harbor  side  of  the  town. 
Along  Pleasant  and  Sargent  streets  and  Court  Park  Road  is  probably 
the  most  agreeable  course,  making  the  circuit  of  Court  Park  (so  named 
in  honor  of  Judges  George  B.  Loring  and  John  Lowell,  who  formerly 
owned  the  whole  area  now  laid  out  in  house  lots),  where  are  the 
Winthrop  Golf  Club's  links,  and  continuing  through  Pleasant  Street 
along  the  harbor  front  to  the  station  just  beyond  Main  Street,  taking 
here  a  train  to  Winthrop  Beach.  From  this  point  Cottage  Hill  may  be 
climbed  for  the  view  of  the  town,  the  bay,  and  the  harbor. 

A  walk  along  Winthrop  Beach  naturally  follows,  with  the  surf  pounding 
on  the  right,  and  off  beyond  it  the  outer  island,  Nahant,  to  the  north, 
and  the  open  sea  in  view,  with  a  glimpse  occasionally  of  a  steamer 
coming  in.  Near  the  upper  end  of  the  beach  we  should  turn  off  and 
pass  through  Neptune  Avenue  and  Shirley  Street  (the  latter  the  old 
county  road),  by  the  Ocean  Spray  station  of  the  railroad,  to  the  old  Deane 
Winthrop  house  on  the  right,  marked  by  a  tablet.     A  few  steps  farther 


Winthrop  Boulevard 


REVERE  BEACH  RESERVATION        141 

to  the  intersection  of  Revere  Street,  and  we  are  at  the  entrance  of 
Fort  Banks,  the  saluting  battery,  the  brick  hospital,  and  the  command- 
ant's headquarters.  We  may  follow  Revere  Street  up  a  moderate  slope 
to  Summit  Avenue,  and  taking  this  street  to  the  right  we  shall  get 
other  fine  views,  while  about  us  is  picturesque  Winthrop  Highlands,  as 
this  section  of  the  town  is  called.  It  is  but  a  few  steps  down  the  east- 
ern end  of  Summit  Avenue  and  along  Crest  Avenue  (to  the  left)  to  the 
Highlands  station.  Here 'we  may  take  the  next  Boston-bound  train 
back  to  Orient  Heights  (as  soon  as  we  cross  Belle  Isle  inlet  we  are  on 
Breed's  Island,  the  newer  part  of  East  Boston),  and  at  this  station  change 
to  a  train  passing  over  the  main  line  for  Crescent  Beach  at  the  lower  end 
of  the  famous  Revere  Beach.  On  the  way  we  pass  the  station  at  Beach- 
mont  at  the  foot  of  a  fine  hill  thickly  covered  with  houses,  the  other  side 
of  which  we  have  seen  from  Summit  Avenue,  Winthrop  Highlands. 

At  Crescent  Beach  the  railroad  is  but  a  few  rods  back  from  the  great 
beach  boulevard  of  the  Metropolitan  Parks  System,  which  extends  along 
the  ocean  front  for  two  miles  with  its  splendid  roadway  and  broad 
promenades  on  either  side.  The  Revere  Beach  Reservation  embraces 
the  whole  length  of  the  beach  to  the  Point  of  Pines,  at  the  mouth 
of  Saugus  River.  Near  the  middle  of  its  length  is  an  ornate  band 
stand,  and  near  its  northern  end  the  great  State  Bath  House  (the  rail- 
road has  a  station  just  at  the  rear  of  the  Bath  House),  from  which  on 
Labor  Day,  1902,  8721  persons  went  into  the  water,  the  total  for  the 
season  being  113,783.  The  boys'  bath  room  will  accommodate  five 
hundred  boys  at  a  time.  All  along  the  shore  side  of  the  boulevard  are 
various  amusement  places,  —  the  steeplechase,  the  roller  coaster,  elec- 
tric boats  on  a  small  lake,  refreshment  booths  and  restaurants,  tintype 
galleries,  and  all  the  paraphernalia  of  a  modern  seaside  resort  for  the 
people.  Perfect  order  is  preserved  by  the  Metropolitan  Park  police. 
On  a  warm  afternoon  and  evening  the  visitors  are  numbered  by  scores 
of  thousands,  and  the  driving  along  the  superb  roadway  makes  an 
interesting  pageant. 

From  the  southern  end  of  the  Reservation  the  Revere  Beach  Parkway 
extends  nearly  five  and  a  quarter  miles  west  to  the  lower  end  of  Med- 
ford,  where  it  joins  the  Fellsway,  leading  north  to  the  Middlesex  Fells. 
The  electric  cars  of  the  Boston  &  Northern  system  run  through  the 
turfed  center  of  this  parkway  —  till  the  Revere  station  of  the  Boston  & 
Maine  Railroad  is  reached,  and  there  the  Parkway  crosses  the  tracks 
overhead.  At  the  Revere  station  they  take  a  more  direct  route  via 
Winthrop  Avenue  and  Beach  Street,  through  Revere  Center  to  Fenno's 
Corner,  whence  they  turn  sharply  off  to  the  left  into  Broadway  and  so 
through  Chelsea  into  Boston. 


142  CHELSEA 

Much  of  the  history  of  Revere  has  been  identical  with  that  of  Win- 
throp,  as  we  have  seen.  Up  to  1852,  when  the  latter  town  set  up  for 
itself,  they  had  been  associated  municipally  from  the  very  first.  In  1871 
the  name  of  North  Chelsea  was  changed  to  Revere.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  its  beach  section  and  the  bold  drumlin  now  covered  by  the  semi- 
summer-resort  settlement  of  Beachmont,  it  is  a  quiet  town,  still  largely 
devoted  to  farming,  with  the  scattered  homes  of  old  families.  On  the 
way  inward  through  Broadway,  before  we  cross  Snake  or  Mill  Creek, 
which  lies  partly  in  the  Parkway,  we  may  see  off  to  the  left  the  old 
Yeaman  house,  built  about  1680,  a  typical  farmhouse  of  the  early  days, 
with  its  gambrel  roof  and  lean-to. 

CHELSEA 

When  we  cross  Snake  Creek  we  are  in  Chelsea,  which  in  1634  was 
made  a  part  of  Boston  by  one  of  those  terse,  phonetic  orders  of  the 
General  Court,  so  much  more  definite  than  the  long-drawn  "  acts  "  of 
our  modern  legislatures,  that  "  Wynetsemt  shall  belong  to  Boston." 

Chelsea  has  numerous  attractive  features.  Within  its  limits  is  the 
fine  curving  eminence  of  Powderhorn  Hill,  which  we  reach  on  our  right 
and  may  ascend  by  a  direct  avenue  from  Broadway.  The  spreading 
building  on  its  summit  is  the  Massachusetts  Soldiers'  Home,  originally 
erected  for  a  summer  hotel.  From  the  pleasant  lawn  and  long  shaded 
verandas  of  this  institution,  where  the  broken  soldiers  of  the  Civil 
War  sit  and  smoke  their  pipes  through  the  long  summer  afternoons, 
one  may  look  far  down  the  harbor  and  well-nigh  all  over  the  city 
below.  From  the  top  of  the  old  reservoir  near  by  the  view  takes  in 
the  Mystic  marshes  and  the  whole  sweep  of  hills  bounding  the  Boston 
Basin. 

To  the  northwest  of  Powderhorn,  and  lying  mostly  in  Everett,  is 
Mount  Washington,  reached  by  Washington  Avenue,  through  which 
trolley  cars  run,  and  to  which  we  may  cross  through  Summit  and  Win- 
throp  avenues  at  the  west  end  of  Powderhorn.  Turning  into  Wash- 
ington Avenue  to  the  right,  a  few  steps  bring  us  to  Washington  Park, 
maintained  by  the  Chelsea  Park  Commission.  Set  into  the  park  wall 
is  a  large  flat  stone  bearing  this  legend :  This  stone,  once  a  doorstep  of 
the  old  Pratt  mansion  visited  by  Washington  during  the  siege  of  Boston, 
stands  opposite  the  barrack-grounds   of  Colonel   Gerrish's  regiment  of 

*775-7b- 

Another  landmark  of  earlier  date  is  the  Way-Ireland  house,  —  in  later 
years  the  Pratt  family  homestead,  —  in  which  Increase  Mather  was  in 
hiding  for  a  time  before  he  sailed  for  England  in  April,  1688,  as  agent 


SOMERVILLE,  MEDFORD,  AND   MALDEN  143 

for  the  colonists,  to  intercede  with  the  king  against  the  oppressions  of 
Andros.  It  stands  near  the  foot  of  this  hill,  just  off  Washington  Avenue, 
which  winds  to  the  right  and  continues  to  Woodlawn  Cemetery. 

Returning  by  a  Washington  Avenue  car  down  Broadway  and,  if  we 
choose,  into  Boston  through  the  Charlestown  District,  we  shall  cross 
the  Eastern  Division  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  just  beside  the  Chelsea 
station.  Near  by  is  Union  Park,  in  which  stands  the  Chelsea  Soldiers' 
Monument.  At  Bellingham  Square,  where  we  turn  into  Broadway,  we 
take  a  course  directly  southwest  to  the  bridge  over  the  Mystic  into 
Charlestown.  As  we  near  the  bridge  we  see  on  our  right  the  extensive 
grounds  occupied  by  the  United  States  Naval  Hospital  and  the  Marine 
Hospital,  the  former  for  sick  and  disabled  officers  and  men  of  the  navy, 
the  latter  for  invalids  of  the  merchant  marine.  The  grounds  are  sightly, 
sloping  to  the  river  and  shaded  by  ancient  trees. 

On  the  farther  end  of  the  tract,  where  the  Island  End  River  joins  the 
Mystic  River,  is  the  site  of  Samuel  Maverick's  fortified  house,  built  in 
1624-1625.  Maverick  described  it  as  having  "a  Pillizado  fflankers  and 
gunnes  both  below  and  above  in  them  which  awed  the  Indians,"  and  no 
wonder.  It  was  here  that  Maverick  entertained  Governor  Winthrop 
and  his  associate  leaders  on  their  first  coming  in  1630.  Maverick 
afterward  removed  to  Noddle's  Island,  now  East  Boston. 


SOMERVILLE,  MEDFORD,  AND  MALDEN 

It  is  a  pleasant  trip  to  Medford,  by  the  way  of  Somerville,  with  much 
historic  interest.  Taking  an  elevated  train  to  the  Sullivan  Square  ter- 
minal, and  there  changing  to  a  Highland  Avenue  car,  a  fifteen  minutes' 
ride  will  bring  us  to  Central  Square,  at  the  eastern  end  of  Prospect 
Hill.  This  hill  is  historic  as  the  site  of  the  citadel,  the  most  formidable 
works  in  the  American  lines  during  the  Siege  of  Boston,  and  as  the 
place  where  the  Union  flag  with  its  thirteen  stripes  was  first  hoisted, 
January  1, 1776.  These  facts  are  related  upon  a  tablet  which  stands  on 
the  present  top  of  the  hill,  with  the  exception  of  one  small  point  fifteen 
feet  or  so  lower  now  than  at  that  time.  On  its  long  summit  General 
Putnam  made  his  headquarters  after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  and 
here  also  during  the  winter  of  1 777-1 778  were  quartered  the  British 
troops  captured  at  Saratoga  with  Burgoyne.  The  point  left  uncut  is 
now  reserved  in  a  park,  and  an  observatory  is  to  be  built  on  its  summit. 

Central  Hill  beyond,  over  which  our  car  soon  passes,  is  also  associated 
with  the  Revolution.  Its  summit  is  an  open,  parklike  space,  at  the 
easterly  end  of  which  is  observed  a  miniature  redoubt  with  cannon 
mounted.       This  is  intended  to  mark   the  site   of   French's   Redoubt 


144  TUFTS    COLLEGE 

thrown  up  after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  which  became  a  part  of  the 
besieging  lines  of  Boston. 

In  this  highland  common  are  grouped  a  series  of  public  buildings,  — 
the  City  Hall,  the  Public  Library,  the  High  School,  and  the  English 
High  School. 

On  Winter  Hill,  northward,  stood  another  Continental  fort,  and  the 
chief  one,-  connected  with  the  Central  Hill  battery  and  the  citadel  on 
Prospect  Hill  by  a  line  of  earthworks.  Near  the  foot  of  Central  Hill, 
in  a  well-preserved  old  house  marked  by  a  tablet,  are  seen  the  head- 
quarters of  General  Charles  Lee  during  the  Siege.  Over  on  Spring 
Hill,  to  the  west,  Lord  Percy's  artillery  for  a  time  covered  the  retreat 
of  his  tired  infantry  on  that  memorable  19th  of  April.  On  Willow 
Avenue  near  Davis  Square,  West  Somerville,  a  tablet  records  a  sharp 
fight  at  this  point,  and  marks  graves  of  British  soldiers  here. 

At  Davis  Square  we  leave  the  car  and  walk  through  Elm  Street, 
which  curves  to  the  right,  to  the  junction  of  College  Avenue,  Broadway, 
and  Powderhouse  Avenue.  Here,  in  a  little  park,  stands  the  picturesque 
as  well  as  historic  Old  Powder  House,  a  tower  with  conical  top,  thirty  feet 
high  and  about  twenty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  ground,  with  thick  walls 
of  brick,  and  barred  doorway  and  window. 

It  was  first  a  mill,  built  about  1 703-1 704,  and  became  a  Province  powder  house 
in  1747.  On  September  1,  1774,  General  Gage  seized  the  250  half -barrels  of  gun- 
powder stored  within  it  and  thereby  provoked  the  great  assembly  of  the  following 
day  on  Cambridge  Common.  In  1775  it  became  the  magazine  of  the  American 
army  besieging  Boston. 

To  the  northwest  from  this  park  it  is  but  a  few  minutes'  walk  through 
College  Avenue  to  the  pleasant  grounds  of  Tufts  College,  which  covers 
nearly  all  of  College  Hill  and  commands  a  wide  and  charming  prospect 
of  the  surrounding  country.  Just  beyond  the  railroad  station  (South- 
ern Division,  Boston  &  Maine)  we  enter  Professors  Row,  which  follows 
the  curve  of  the  hill  to  the  left,  and  pass  the  houses  of  President 
Capen  and  others  of  the  faculty ;  also  Metcalf  Hall,  a  dormitory  for 
women  students.  To  the  right,  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  reached  by  a 
broad  walk  under  lofty  elms,  stand  the  chief  buildings  of  the  college : 
Ballou  Hall,  the  oldest ;  the  noteworthy  Goddard  Chapel,  of  stone,  with 
a  hundred-foot  campanile;  the  Barnum  Museum  of  Natural  History, 
built  and  endowed  by  the  famous  showman  and  containing  among 
other  things  the  skeleton  of  the  great  elephant  Jumbo ;  the  Goddard 
Gymnasium  ;  East  and  West  Halls,  dormitories ;  the  Library  and  the 
two  Divinity  School  buildings,  Miner  Hall  and  Paige  Hall.  On  the  other 
side  of  College  Avenue,  near  the  entrance  by  which  we  came,  are  the 


WINCHESTER  145 

Commons  building,  the  Chemical  Building,  and  the  Bromfield-Pearson 
School ;  these  last  two  being  part  of  the  technical  school  plant. 

From  the  college  grounds  it  is  a  pleasant  walk  to  Main  Street,  Medford, 
through  College  Avenue  and  Stearns  Street.  On  Main  Street,  between 
George  and  Royall  Streets,  we  come  upon  a  most  interesting  relic  of 
Provincial  days.  This  is  the  Royall  mansion  house,  built  by  Colonel 
Isaac  Royall  in  1738.  An  earlier  house  on  its  site,  erected  before  1690 
it  is  said,  was  utilized  in  its  construction.  A  building  at  one  side  was 
originally  the  slave  quarters,  the  only  structure  of  its  kind  remaining  in 
Massachusetts.  In  1775  the  mansion  was  the  headquarters  of  Stark's 
division  of  the  Continental  army.  It  is  now  occupied  by  the  Sarah 
Bradlee  Fulton  Chapter,  D.  A.  R.,  and  is  open  to  visitors  for  a  modest  fee. 

Another  relic  of  an  earlier  period  cherished  here  is  the  Craddock 
house,  said  to  date  from  1634,  and  so  entitled  to  the  distinction  of 
being  the  oldest  existing  house  in  the  country.  It  stands  some  distance 
down  the  Mystic  River  side,  on  Riverside  Avenue,  toward  East  Medford. 
Opposite  it,  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  —  the  Somerville  (Winter 
Hill)  side,  —  lay  Governor  Winthrop's  Ten  Hills  Farm. 

In  Medford  Square  electric  cars  can  be  taken  for  Maiden,  Melrose, 
and  Everett  in  one  direction,  and  for  Winchester,  Woburn,  and  Lowell 
in  another.    Forest  Street  is  a  Medford  entrance  to  the  Middlesex  Fells. 

Across  to  Maiden  is  an  agreeable  ride.  The  route  passes  the  Mid- 
dlesex Fells  Parkway,  a  Maiden  entrance  to  the  southeasterly  section 
of  the  Fells,  the  most  romantic  part  of  the  Reservation.  As  it  nears 
the  finish  the  parkway  widens  into  Fellsmere,  a  small  park  with  pleas- 
ing landscape  features.  In  Maiden  Center  is  the  Public  Library  and 
Art  Gallery,  noteworthy  as  one  of  the  best  examples  of  the  work  of 
the  architect  H.  H.  Richardson  in  public  buildings. 

Winchester 

Winchester,  which  touches  the  western  side  of  the  Fells,  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  towns  of  the  metropolitan  region.  Its  natural  beauty 
in  wooded  hill  and  vale,  river  and  lake  (the  Mystic  ponds),  is  unusual, 
and  this  has  been  to  a  great  extent  worthily  retained  in  the  building  up 
of  the  town.  It  is  next  to  Brookline,  perhaps,  in  richness  of  possessions 
and  as  a  favored  residential  place  for  substantial  business  and  profes- 
sional men  of  Boston.  It  has  a  few  large  country  seats,  some  old-time 
family  mansions,  and  a  great  variety  of  tasteful  houses  of  modern  build. 
It  is  connected  with  Medford  and  Arlington  by  electric  lines,  and  so 
with  Boston ;  but  the  more  direct  connection  is  by  railroad  (Boston  & 
Maine,  North  Station). 


146  PUBLIC   PARKS 


III.    PUBLIC    PARKS 

BOSTON    CITY   SYSTEM 

Boston  Common,  48I  acres.  Central  District.  Bounded  by  Tremont, 
Park,  Beacon,  Charles,  and  Boylston  streets. 

Public  Garden,  24^  acres.  Edge  of  Back  Bay  District.  Bounded  by 
Charles,  Beacon,  Arlington,  and  Boylston  streets. 

Commonwealth  Avenue  Parkway.  Back  Bay  District,  middle  of  Com- 
monwealth Avenue  from  Arlington  Street  to  entrance  of  Back 
Bay  Fens. 

Back  Bay  Fens,  115  acres.  Back  Bay  District,  from  the  Charles  River 
to  beginning  of  Riverway.  Reached  by  any  Beacon  Street  car, 
alighting  at  Charlesgate ;  or  from  Massachusetts  Avenue  at  Com- 
monwealth Avenue  by  a  walk  of  three  minutes. 

Riverway,  40  acres.  Back  Bay  District  and  boundary  between  Boston 
and  Brookline.  Reached  by  Huntington  Avenue  car,  alighting  at 
Tremont  entrance,  near  the  Gardner  Museum ;  or  by  same  car  at 
Leverett  Park ;  or  b}  Ipswich  Street  and  Brookline  Avenue  car, 
alighting  at  Audubon  Road. 

Leverett  Park,  60  acres.  Joins  Riverway  on  the  south.  Boundary 
between  Roxbury  District  and  Brookline.  Reached  by  Hunting- 
ton Avenue  car  or  by  any  Brookline  Village  car  (two  minutes'  walk 
from  Village  Square).     (This  park  included  in  Olmsted  Park,  1903.) 

Jamaicaway.  (Now  also  part  of  Olmsted  Park.)  Connects  Leverett 
Park  with  Jamaica  Park.  Mostly  in  West  Roxbury  District.  Walk 
of  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  Huntington  Avenue  car. 

Jamaica  Park,  120  acres.  (Now  included  in  Olmsted  Park.)  Jamaica 
Plain,  West  Roxbury  District.  Jamaica  Pond  occupies  most  of  its 
area.  Reached  by  Jamaica  Plain  car  from  the  Subway  (and  short 
walk),  or  by  train  on  Providence  Division,  New  York,  New  Haven 
&  Hartford  Railroad,  to  Jamaica  Plain  station,  and  thence  by  a 
walk  of  ten  minutes  via  Green,  Myrtle,  and  Pond  streets. 

Arborway,  36  acres.  Connecting  Jamaica  Park  with  the  Arnold  Arbore- 
tum, and  the  latter,  in  turn,  with  Franklin  Park. 

Arnold  Arboretum  and  Bussey  Park,  223  acres.  West  Roxbury  District, 
continuing  the  system  southward  from  Jamaica  Park.  Fine  trees 
and  shrubs.  Reached  most  conveniently  by  train  on  Providence 
Division,  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad,  to  Forest 
Hills  station ;  or  by  street  car  to  Forest  Hills,  either  via  Jamaica 


PUBLIC   PARKS  147 

Plain  (from  Subway),  or  via  elevated  train  to  Dudley  Street  terminal, 
and  then  by  surface  car  via  Washington  Street  to  Forest  Hills. 

West  Roxbury  Parkway,  150  acres.  West  Roxbury  District,  connect- 
ing the  Arnold  Arboretum  with  the  Stony  Brook  Reservation  of 
the  Metropolitan  Parks  System. 

Franklin  Park,  527  acres.  Between  Roxbury,  West  Roxbury,  and 
Dorchester  districts.  Reached  by  Cross-Town  car  to  Grove  Hall 
transfer  station,  and  thence  by  Blue  Hill  Avenue  car  to  main 
entrance  opposite  Columbia  Road ;  or  by  elevated  train  to  Dudley 
Street  terminal,  thence  by  surface  car  to  Grove  Hall  transfer  sta- 
tion, and  Blue  Hill  Avenue  car,  as  above.  From  the  entrance 
wagonettes  take  parties  of  visitors  around  an  extensive  tour  of  the 
park  for  twenty-five  cents  each. 

Franklin  Field,  77  acres.  Dorchester  District.  Its  nearest  corner  is 
separated  from  one  corner  of  Franklin  Park  only  by  Blue  Hill 
Avenue,  cars  traversing  that  avenue  being  the  direct  way  to  it. 
Chiefly  used  for  baseball  and  other  outdoor  sports. 

Dorchester  Park,  26  acres.  Near  Milton  Lower  Mills,  Dorchester  Dis- 
trict. A  natural  park,  very  rocky  and  thickly  wooded.  Directly 
reached  by  any  Ashmont  and  Milton  car.  The  pleasantest  way  is 
via  Grove  Hall  transfer  station,  Washington  Street,  and  Codman 
Hill,  Dorchester. 

Dorchesterway,  6  acres.  Dorchester  District,  connecting  Franklin 
Park  and  the  Strandway,  via  Columbia  Road. 

Strandway,  260  acres.  South  Boston.  Borders  the  shore  of  Old 
Harbor,  extending  to  the  Marine  Park  at  City  Point. 

Marine  Park  (including  Castle  Island),  288  acres.  South  Boston.  Bath- 
ing beach  with  city  bath  house ;  long  pier  extending  out  into  the 
harbor,  with  drawbridge  connecting  it  with  Castle  Island  (here  is 
Fort  Independence,  now  disused)  and  a  breakwater  opposite,  form- 
ing a  pleasure  bay  for  small  boats.  Reached  by  South  Boston  car 
from  Washington  Street  or  from  Park  Square. 

Wood  Island  Park,  211  acres.  Harbor  side  of  East  Boston,  toward 
Governor's  Island.  Public  bathing  houses,  gymnasiums,  and  out- 
door sports  of  various  kinds.  Attractive  landscape  architecture. 
Reached  by  train  on  Boston,  Revere  Beach  &  Lynn  Railroad,  every 
fifteen  minutes,  from  Rowe's  Wharf  (elevated  railway  station 
opposite)  to  Wood  Island  station. 

Charlestown  Heights,  10  acres.  Charlestown  District.  Summit  of 
Bunker  Hill,  overlooking  the  Mystic  River. 

North  End  Beach  and  Copp's  Hill  Terraces,  7  acres.  North  End. 
Bathing  beach  and  playground  for  children.     Reached  by  Atlantic 


148  METROPOLITAN  SYSTEM 

Avenue  elevated  train  to  Battery  Street  station,  or  by  East  Bos- 
ton or  Chelsea  Ferry  surface  car  to  Atlantic  Avenue  (short  walk). 
Just  above  the  terraces  is  the  historic  Copp's  Hill  Burying  Ground. 

Charlesbank,  10  acres.  West  End.  Lies  along  the  Charles  River  from 
Craigie's  Bridge  to  West  Boston  Bridge.  Open-air  gymnasium  and 
playgrounds.  Attractively  laid  out  and  affording  fine  views  of  the 
lower  Charles.  Reached  most  conveniently  by  Cambridge  car  from 
Park  Square  via  Charles  Street,  or  from  Bowdoin  Square. 

Rogers  Park,  69  acres.  Brighton  District.  Reached  by  Newton  car 
via  Allston  and  Brighton,  alighting  at  Lake  Street  (short  walk). 

Chestnut  Hill  Park,  42  acres.  Brighton  District.  Surrounding  the 
Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir.  Beautiful  grounds,  trees,  and  shrubs ; 
fine  driveway  and  footpath  ;  woods  and  rocks.  Reached  by  New- 
ton Boulevard  car  to  Lake  Street  transfer  station ;  also  by  Reservoir 
cars  to  end  of  route  (short  walk). 

Besides  the  city  parks  mentioned  above  there  are  many  public  pleas- 
ure grounds  in  various  parts  of  the  city  which  are  not  under  the  juris- 
diction of  the  Boston  Park  Commissioners  but  under  that  of  the 
superintendent  of  public  grounds.  The  Common  and  Public  Garden, 
indeed,  belong  to  his  domain,  but  as  an  essential  and  initial  part  of  the 
park  system  they  are  included  in  the  above  table. 

A  number  of  playgrounds,  provided  with  simple  outdoor  gymnastic 
apparatus  and  with  ball  grounds  and  tennis  courts  laid  out,  are  provided 
in  several  sections  of  the  municipality,  and  are  fully  improved  during  the 
open  months. 

METROPOLITAN   SYSTEM 

Nantasket  Beach  Reservation,  24.51  acres.  Hull.  Splendid  bathing. 
Reached  by  Nantasket  steamer  from  Rowe's  Wharf  (Atlantic 
Avenue  elevated  station  opposite),  or  by  train  on  New  York,  New 
Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad  to  Nantasket  Junction ;  thence  by 
Nantasket  Branch  (electric)  to  the  beach. 

Quincy  Shore,  37.97  acres.     Quincy.     Along  the  shore  of  Quincy  Bay. 

Blue  Hills  Reservation,  4857.96  acres.  Milton,  Quincy,  Braintree, 
Randolph,  and  Canton.  Includes  the  higher  portion  of  the  Blue 
Hill  range.  Wild  rocky  heights  ;  widespreading  views  in  all  direc- 
tions. Reached  by  train  on  the  Milton  Branch,  New  York,  New 
Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad,  to  Milton ;  then  by  trolley  car  for 
Brockton,  via  Randolph  Avenue,  to  the  edge  of  the  Reservation. 

Neponset  River  Banks,  926.41  acres.  Boston,  Hyde  Park,  Dedham, 
Westwood,  Milton,  and  Canton. 


METROPOLITAN  SYSTEM 


149 


Stony  Brook  Reservation,  463.72  acres.  Boston  and  Hyde  Park. 
Densely  wooded  hills  ;  Muddy  Pond ;  fine  driveways.  Reached  by 
trolley  car  for  Dedham  from  Forest  Hills. 

Charles  River  Banks,  563.20  acres.  Boston,  Cambridge,  Watertown, 
Waltham,  Weston,  Newton,  and  Wellesley. 

Beaver  Brook  and  Waverley  Oaks  Reservation,  58.35  acres.  Belmont 
and  Waltham.  Contains  the  famous  old  oak  trees  and  a  pictur- 
esque brook  (subject  of  Lowell's  "  Beaver  Brook  "),  with  ponds  and 
waterfall.  Reached  by  Waverley  car  from  Subway  or  by  train  on 
Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  (Fitchburg  or  Central  Massachusetts  divi- 
sions) to  Waverley  station  (short  walk). 

Hemlock  Gorge  Reservation,  23.10  acres.  Newton  and  Needham.  The 
Charles  River  cuts  its 
way  here  through  a 
narrow,  deep  gorge 
shaded  with  fine  old 
trees.  Echo  Bridge 
is  across  the  river 
above  the  gorge,  —  a 
symmetrical  piece  of 
masonry,  with  a  won- 
derful echo  beneath 
it.  Reached  by  car 
via  Newton,  or  by 
Boston  &  Worcester 

(electric)  car  via  Boylston  Street,  Brookline  ;  also  by  train  (Newton 
Circuit,  New  York  Central)  to  Newton  Upper  Falls. 

Middlesex  Fells,  1882.95  acres.  Maiden,  Melrose,  Stoneham,  Medford, 
and  Winchester.  Beautifully  diversified  scenery,  —  hills,  ponds, 
brooks,  ledges,  and  forest ;  splendid  walks  and  drives.  Reached 
by  elevated  train  to  Sullivan  Square  terminal,  thence  by  surface  car 
to  Maiden,  or  to  Medford,  or  to  Winchester  via  Medford,  or  to  Mel- 
rose ;  or  by  train  on  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad  (Western  Division)  to 
Wyoming  Station. 

Mystic  River  Banks,  289.44  acres.     Somerville,  Medford,  and  Arlington. 

Winthrop  Shore  Reservation,  16.73  acres.  Winthrop  extends  along 
the  ocean  front  for  about  a  mile.  A  broad  boulevard  with  side- 
walks on  both  sides.  Fine  views  of  the  ocean,  Nahant,  and  the 
outer  islands.  Reached  by  train  every  fifteen  minutes  on  Win- 
throp Branch,  Boston,  Revere  Beach  &  Lynn  Railroad,  from 
Rowe's  Wharf  (elevated  railway  station  opposite)  to  Winthrop 
Beach,  Shirley,  or  Ocean  Spray  stations. 


Nantasket  Beach 


i5° 


METROPOLITAN   SYSTEM 


Revere  Beach  Reservation,  67.44  acres.  Revere.  A  broad  boulevard 
with  walks  extending  along  the  ocean  for  about  two  miles.  State 
bath  house,  band  stand,  refreshment  houses,  and  a  great  variety  of 
amusements.  The  beach  superb  and  the  bathing  excellent.  Reached 
by  train  every  fifteen  minutes  on  the  main  line  of  the  Boston,  Revere 
Beach  &  Lynn  Railroad  from  Rowe's  Wharf,  or  by  trolley  car  from 
the  Subway  (Scollay  Square,  Adams  Square,  or  Haymarket  Square 

stations),  via  Charlestown, 
Chelsea,  and  Revere. 
King's  Beach  and  Lynn  Shore 
Reservation,  10.81  acres. 
Swampscott  and  Lynn. 
Along  the  ocean  front  of  the 
northern  part  of  Lynn  and 
the  southern  shore  of 
Swampscott.  Reached  by 
trains  to  Lynn  and  trolley 
cars  for  Swampscott  through 
Ocean  Street. 
Lynn  Woods,  Free  Public  Forest, 
2000  acres.  Comprising 
woodland  of  great  natural 
beauty,  maintained  by  the 
Lynn  Park  Commission. 
The  second  largest  munici- 
pal pleasure  ground  in  the 
United  States.  Three  main 
entrances:  one  to  the  Great 
Woods  Road;  second,  to 
Dungeon  Rock,  on  Wal- 
nut Street  —  both  these 
reached  by  electric  cars 
properly  marked,  from  the  square  in  Lynn  at  the  central  railroad 
station ;  the  third  or  western  entrance,  from  the  old  Reading  road 
to  Walden  Pond  —  most  convenient  for  carriages  and  bicycles  from 
Boston  and  suburbs. 
Hart's  Hill,  23.9  acres.  Wakefield.  Reached  by  trains  on  Boston  & 
Maine  Railroad  (Western  Division)  to  Wakefield,  or  by  trolley  car 
from  Sullivan  Square  terminal  of  the  elevated  railway  via  Maiden 
and  Melrose. 


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Rustic  Bridge  and  Waterfall, 
Middlesex  Fells 


PARKWAYS  151 

Governor  Hutchinson  Field.  Milton.  Part  of  the  estate  of  the  royal 
governor  in  the  years  immediately  preceding  the  Revolution.  Fine 
view  of  the  Neponset  River  and  its  meadows,  Boston  city  and 
harbor,  and  Massachusetts  Bay.  Reached  by  train  or  trolley  car 
to  Milton  Lower  Mills,  and  walk  of  ten  minutes  through  Adams 
Street. 

PARKWAYS 

Furnace  Brook,  3.326  miles  in  length.     Quincy. 

Blue  Hills,  2.280  miles.     Boston  and  Milton. 

Neponset  River,  1.120  miles.     Hyde  Park  and  Milton. 

West  Roxbury,  1.510  miles.     Boston,  West  Roxbury  District. 

Fresh  Pond,  .520  mile.     Cambridge. 

Middlesex  Fells,  4.605  miles.     Maiden,  Medford,  Somerville. 

Mystic  Valley,  2.900  miles.     Medford,  Winchester. 

Revere  Beach,  5.240  miles.     Revere,  Chelsea,  Everett,  Medford. 

Lynnway,  .690  mile.     Revere,  Lynn. 

Nahant  Beach,  2.230  miles.     Nahant. 


152  ARLINGTON 

IV.    DAY    TRIPS    FROM    BOSTON 

LEXINGTON   AND   CONCORD 

Lexington  is  reached  from  Boston  by  electric  car  via  Arlington,  or  by 
train,  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  North  Station.  Concord  is  also  reached 
by  both  electric  and  steam  cars.  To  include  both  places  in  a  single  trip 
there  is  a  choice  of  routes  :  one  wholly  by  trolley  car,  another  partly  by 
trolley  and  partly  by  steam  car  (from  Lexington  to  Concord),  a  third 
wholly  by  train.  The  route  wholly  by  electrics  is  by  an  Arlington 
Heights  car,  passing  along  Massachusetts  Avenue  through  Cambridge 
and  Arlington,  to  the  Lexington  town  line  ;  thence  by  a  Boston  and  Lex- 
ington electric  car,  through  East  Lexington  to  Lexington  Center,  by  the 
historic  green ;  thence  to  Concord  by  way  of  Bedford,  finishing  in  the 
main  square  of  the  town.  To  reach  Concord  directly  from  Boston 
the  usual  and  by  far  the  quickest  way  is  to  take  the  steam  railroad. 
There  are  two  routes,  —  one  by  the  Fitchburg  Division  of  the  Boston  & 
Maine,  the  other  by  the  Southern  Division,  the  latter  being  the  line 
which  comes  through  Lexington. 

The  trolley-car  route  to  Lexington  passes  numerous  historic  points  in 

Arlington  (the  early  Menotomy,  later  West  Cambridge),  all  associated 
with  the  affair  of  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  Before  the  town  line  is 
reached  the  visitor  must  needs  be  on  the  lookout  for  tablets.  In 
North  Cambridge  (Cambridge  station  on  the  near-by  railroad)  is  the  first 
one.  This  stands  just  above  the  church  beyond  "  Porter's,"  the  old 
hotel,  a  relic  of  past  days.  It  marks  a  point  where  four  Americans  were 
killed  by  British  soldiers  on  the  retreat.  Two  miles  and  more  beyond, 
after  a  brick  car  house  is  passed  and  the  railroad  crossed,  the  next  tab- 
let may  be  seen,  on  the  right  side  of  the  road.  This  marks  the  site  of 
the  Black  Horse  Tavern,  where  three  members  of  the  Committee  of 
Safety  of  1775  —  Colonel  Azor  Ome,  Colonel  Jeremiah  Lee,  and 
Elb ridge  Gerry  of  Marblehead  —  were  spending  the  night  of  the  18th 
of  April,  and  barely  escaped  capture  by  the  British  soldiers  on  the 
march  out  to  Lexington  and  Concord. 

Nearing  the  town  center,  the  Arlington  House  is  marked,  "  Here 
stood  Cooper's  Tavern,  in  which  Jabez  Wyman  and  Jason  Winship  were 
killed  by  the  British,  April  19,  1775."  A  little  way  beyond  this  tavern, 
at  the  right,  is  Mystic  Street,  down  which,  a  hundred  yards  from  the 
avenue,  is  a  tablet  inscribed  with  this  marvelous  tale  :  "  Near  this  spot 
Samuel  Whittemore,  then  eighty  years  old,  killed  three  British  soldiers 


EAST  LEXINGTON  153 

April  19,  1775.  He  was  shot,  bayonetted,  beaten,  and  left  for  dead, 
but  recovered  and  lived  to  be  ninety-eight  years  of  age."  At  the  junc- 
tion of  the  avenue  and  Pleasant  Street,  in  front  of  the  church  green,  a 
tablet  records  that  "at  this  spot  on  April  19th,  1775,  the  old  men  of 
Menotomy  captured  a  convoy  of  English  soldiers  with  supplies,  on  its 
way  to  join  the  British  at  Lexington."  Behind  the  church  on  Pleasant 
Street  is  the  old  burying  ground  where  a  number  who  fell  in  the  fight 
during  the  British  retreat  were  buried.  Farther  down  Pleasant  Street, 
on  the  borders  of  fair  Spy  Pond,  is  the  home  of  John  T.  Trowbridge, 
author  and  poet.  On  the  avenue  again,  above  the  church  green,  is  the 
fine  Robbins  Memorial  Library,  and  a  little  beyond  this,  near  the  corner 
of  Jason  Street,  another  tablet  appears,  identifying  the  "  site  of  the  house 
of  Jason  Russell,  where  he  and  eleven  others  were  captured,  disarmed 
and  killed  by  the  retreating  British."  Farther  along  on  the  plain  near- 
ing  Arlington  Heights  are  two  or  three  old  houses  which  suffered  damage 
in  the  fight.  At  the  top  of  the  incline  the  "  Foot  of  the  Rocks"  as  this 
point  was  called  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  is  reached.  To  the  left 
a  road  leads  up  to  "  the  Heights,"  from  which  a  beautiful  view  is  to 
be  had. 

The  car  stables  close  to  the  Lexington  line  are  only  a  little  way 
beyond.  Here  the  change  is  made  to  the  Lexington  car  a  few  steps 
above. 

East  Lexington,  or  the  East  Village  as  it  used  to  be  called,  is  now  a 
tranquil  hamlet,  with  an  old-fashioned  store  or  two,  some  comfortable- 
looking  houses  along  the  main  avenue,  a  few  memorials  of  the  British 
invasion,  and  a  little  church  in  which  Emerson  occasionally  preached 
(the  octagonal  structure  on  the  right  side  of  the  avenue,  known  as  the 
Follen  Church,  from  Charles  Follen,  the  German  scholar,  its  minister, 
who  was  lost  in  the  burning  of  the  steamer  Lexington  on  Long  Island 
Sound  in  1840).  At  the  junction  of  the  avenue  and  Pleasant  Street  is 
a  tablet  set  up  beside  a  drinking  fount,  which  marks  the  point  where 
the  first  armed  man  of  the  Revolution  was  taken,  —  only  to  rearm  him- 
self and  fight  later  on  Lexington  Green.  He  was  Benjamin  Wellington, 
a  minuteman.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  a  plain  white  house,  on  the 
right  side,  upon  which  is  a  tablet  identifying  it  as  the  "  home  of  Jonathan 
Harrington,  the  last  survivor  of  the  Battle  of  Lexington."  This,  how- 
ever, was  not  the  place  where  Jonathan  lived  at  the  time  of  the  fight. 
He  was  a  boy  then  (a  fifer  to  the  minutemen)  and  lived  with  his  father, 
another  Jonathan  Harrington,  whose  house  also  is  standing,  a  little 
farther  on,  at  the  corner  of  Maple  Street.  In  the  sidewalk  in  front  of 
the  latter  house  is  one  of  the  largest  elms  in  New  England.  One 
day  in   1753  the  elder  Jonathan  drove  an  ox  team  to  Salem,  and  on 


354 


LEXINGTON 


the  way  back  he  pulled  up  an  elm  shoot  to  brush  the  flies  off  the 
oxen.  When  he  got  home  he  set  it  out,  and  this  great  tree  has  grown 
from  it. 

Lexington.  After  passing  the  rural  station  of  Munroe's,  on  the  rail- 
road, the  first  object  of  interest,  and  a  worthy  one,  is  Munroe's  Tavern, 
standing  on  an  elm-shaded  knoll  at  the  left  of  the  avenue.  On  its  face 
is  a  tablet  thus  inscribed:  "Earl  Percy's  headquarters  and  hospital, 
April  19,  1775.  The  Munroe  Tavern  built  1695."  Percy  occupied  the 
room  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  door,  and  this  was  made  the  temporary 
hospital.  The  room  on  the  right  was  the  taproom,  where  the  soldiers 
were  freely  supplied  with  liquor. 

When  the  retreat  began  some  of  the  soldiers  discharged  their  guns,  killing 

John  Raymond,  who  had  served  them  and  who  was  trying  to  escape  through 

a  back  door.  A  bullet 
hole  made  by  one  of  the 
British  musket  balls  is 
still  seen  in  the  ceiling 
of  this  room.  The 
departing  soldiers  also 
started  a  fire  in  the 
tavern,  but  it  was  put 
out.  In  the  southeast 
part  of  the  second  story 
was  the  tavern  dining 
room,  and  here  Wash- 
ington dined  in  Novem- 
ber, 1789,  when  on  his 
last     journey    through 

New  England.     This  house  was  much  larger  then,  with  spreading  outbuildings. 

Abandoned  as  a  tavern  yejars  ago,  it  has  been  preserved  as  a  memorial  of  the 

Revolution. 

As  the  town  center  is  approached  historic  sites  multiply.  The  hill  on 
the  left  is  marked  as  the  point  where  one  of  the  British  fieldpieces  was 
planted  to  command  the  village  and  its  approaches.  Near  it,  we  are 
informed  by  the  same  tablet,  "  several  buildings  were  burned."  A  little 
way  beyond  Bloomfield  Street,  at  the  left,  is  about  the  point  where 
Percy  met  Smith's  retreating  force,  and  at  the  right,  in  front  of  the 
High  School,  a  granite  cannon  marks  the  spot  where  he  planted  a  field- 
piece  to  cover  the  retreat. 

Arrived  at  Lexington  Green,  —  the  Common  where  the  "battle" 
occurred,  —  the  visitor  will  find  every  point  of  importance  designated 
by  a  monument  or  tablet.  Thus  at  the  lower  end  is  the  stone  pulpit 
marking  the  site  of  the  first  three  meetinghouses,  a  "  spot  identified 


LEXINGTON  155 

with  the  town's  history  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  years."  Near  by  is  a 
bronze  statue  of  a  yeoman  with  gun  in  hand  standing  on  a  heap  of 
rocks.  Where  the  minutemen  were  lined  up  is  indicated  by  a  bowlder 
inscribed  with  the  words  of  Captain  Parker :  "  Stand  your  ground.  Don't 
fire  unless  fired  upon,  but  if  they  mean  to  have  a  war,  let  it  begin  here." 
On  the  west  side  of  the  ground  is  the  old  stone  monument,  now  in  a 
beautiful  mantle  of  ivy,  which  the  State  erected  in  1799,  and  for  which 
the  patriot  minister  of  Lexington,  Jonas  Clarke,  wrote  the  oratorical 
inscription.  In  a  stone  vault  back  of  it  are  deposited  the  remains  of 
those  who  fell  in  the  engagement,  which  were  removed  to  this  place 
from  their  common  grave  in  the  village  burying  ground.  With  the 
modern  houses  about  the  green  are  three  which  were  standing  at  the 
time  of  the  battle.  On  the  north  side  is  a  house  in  an  old  garden 
which  was  the  Buckman  Tavern,  "  a  rendezvous  of  the  minutemen,  a 
mark  for  British  bullets,"  as  the  tablet  on  its  face  states.  On  the 
south  side  a  plain  white  house  bears  the  legend,  "  A  witness  of  the 
battle."  On  the  west  side,  at  the  corner  of  Bedford  Street,  is  a 
house  in  which  lived  Jonathan  Harrington,  who,  "wounded  on  the 
Common  "  in  the  engagement,  "  dragged  himself  to  the  door  and  died 
at  his  wife's  feet."  A  few  steps  from  the  Unitarian  Church,  on  this 
side,  is  a  lane  with  a  bowlder  at  its  corner  marked  "  Ye  Old  Burying- 
Ground  1690."  Among  the  many  quaintly  inscribed  gravestones  here 
are  the  tombs  of  the  ministers  John  Hancock,  grandfather  of  Gov- 
ernor John  Hancock,  and  Jonas  Clarke,  and  monuments  to  Captain 
Parker  of  the  minutemen  and  Governor  William  Eustis,  who  was 
a  student  with  General  Joseph  Warren  and  served  as  a  surgeon  at 
Bunker  Hill  and  through  the  war.  He  was  governor  of  the  State 
in  1823-1825. 

On  Hancock  Street  is  the  historic  Hancock-Clarke  house  (moved 
from  its  original  site  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  way),  the  home  of  the 
ministers,  first  Hancock  and  then  Clarke.  Here  John  Hancock  and 
Samuel  Adams  were  stopping  the  night  before  the  battle,  and  were 
roused  at  midnight  from  their  sleep  by  Paul  Revere,  when  they  were 
taken  by  their  guard  to  Captain  James  Reed's  in  Burlington.  The 
venerable  house  is  now  a  museum  of  Revolutionary  relics.  In  the 
Town  Hall,  below  the  green,  are  the  Memorial  Hall  and  Carey  Public 
Library,  in  which  is  a  larger  museum  of  relics,  with  numerous  portraits, 
old  prints,  and  Major  Pitcairn's  pistols,  captured  during  the  retreat. 
Here  are  statues  of  The  Minuteman  of  '75;  The  Union  Soldier;  John 
Hancock,  by  Thomas  R.  Gould;  and  Samuel  Adams,  by  Martin 
Milmore.  In  the  public  hall  above  is  a  fine  painting  of  the  Battle  of 
Lexington  by  Henry  Sandham. 


'56 


CONCORD 


Concord 


Waltham   Street,  opening  directly  opposite  the   Town   Hall,  leads 

toward  the  birthplace  of  Theodore  Parker,  in  Spring  Street,  about  two 

miles  distant. 
jim!{i(Br.  \\  ^  Concord.  The  heart 

of  the  town  is  the 
square  in  the  center, 
where  the  most  con- 
spicuous  object  is 
the 

Unitarian  Church, 
destroyed  by  fire  in 
1900,  and  wisely  re- 
built on  the  old  simple 
and  dignified  lines. 
This  was  the  site  of 
a  still  older  meeting- 
house where  the  Pro- 
vincial Congress  sat. 
Next  to  it  is  the 

Wright  Tavern, 
dating  from   1747. 

Here  Major  Pitcaim  drank  his  toddy  on  the  day  of  the  fight. 
Taking  the  Lexington  road  from  the  square  we  pass,  first,  the 
Concord  Antiqiiarian  Society' 's  house,  full  of  relics  and  old  furniture, 

and,  a  little  farther,  on  a  road  diverging  to  the  right, 

The  Emerson  house,  where  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  lived  the  greater 

part  of  his  life  and  where  he  died.     His  study  is  preserved  as  he  left 

it.      The    house   is   now 

occupied  by  his  daughter, 

Miss   Ellen   Emerson. 

Returning  to  Lexington 

Street    and    proceeding 

about  a  quarter  of  a  mile, 

we  come  to 

The  School  of  Philosophy 

and  Alcott   house.     The 

unpainted,  chapel-like 

building  was  the  home  of 

the  school,  and  the  house 

near  it  was  the  "  Orchard  House,"  in  which  the  Alcott  family  lived  for 

twenty  years.     Here  Louisa  M.  Alcott  wrote  "  Little  Women,"  which 

turned  the  tide  in  the  family's  fortunes.     Just  beyond,  under  the  hill,  is 


The  Alcott  House 


CONCORD 


157 


The  Wayside,  also  occupied  at  one  time  by  the  Alcotts,  but  better 
known  as  the  home  of  Hawthorne  after  the  return  from  Europe.  Here 
the  family  were  living  at  the  time  of  Hawthorne's  sudden  death  in  New 
Hampshire.  "  Hawthorne's  Walk  "  is  on  the  crest  of  the  ridge  that 
rises  abruptly  behind  the  house.  Returning  to  the  square,  we  ascend, 
on  the  right,  the  old 

Hillside  Burying  Ground.  Here  are  historic  graves,  including  those 
of  Emerson's  grandfather  and  Major  John  Buttrick,  who  led  the  fight 
at  the  Old  North  Bridge ;  and  some  unique  epitaphs,  especially  that  of 
John  Jack,  the  slave.  The  church 
near  this  burying  ground  is  now  a 
Catholic  church,  and  turning  the 
corner  of  the  street  on  which  it 
stands,  we  soon  come  to 

Sleepy  Hollow  Cemetery.  Here, 
on  a  high  ridge  beyond  the  beauti- 
ful hollow  which  gives  the  ceme- 
tery its  name,  are,  in  proximity,  the 
graves  of  Hawthorne,  of  Emerson, 
of  Thoreau,  of  Louisa  M.  Alcott 
and  her  father.  Near  the  foot  of 
this  slope  should  not  be  over- 
looked the  Hoar  family  lot  and 
the  beautiful  epitaphs  placed  by 
the  late  Judge  Hoar  upon  the 
monuments  to  his  father,  Samuel 
Hoar,  and  to  his  brother,  Edward 
Hoar.  The  exquisitely  appropri- 
ate inscription  on  the  Soldiers' 
Monument  in  the  square  was  also 
written  by  Judge  Hoar.  Return- 
ing once  more  to  the  square,  and  proceeding  thence  on  Monument 
Street  for  about  half  or  three  quarters  of  a  mile, 

The  Old  Manse,  where  Emerson  wrote  "  Nature,"  and  Hawthorne 
lived  for  a  time,  is  seen  on  the  left,  standing  back  from  the  road. 
The  study  of  both  Emerson  and  Hawthorne  was  a  small  room  at  the 
back  of  the  second  floor.  This  house  was  built  ten  years  before  the 
battle  at  the  bridge  close  by,  and  was  for  many  generations  the  house  of 
the  minister  of  the  village.  A  little  this  side  of  it  is  the  home  of  Judge 
Keyes,  which  dates  from  before  the  Revolution,  and  in  the  ell  of  which 
may  still  be  seen  the  hole  through  which  passed  a  musket  ball  fired  at 
some  patriot  who  was  standing  in  the  doorway  at  the  time  of  the  fight. 


Battle  Monument 


158  CONCORD 

The  Battle  Ground.  The  wooded  lane  just  beyond  the  Old  Manse 
leads  to  the  scene  of  the  battle  at  the  Old  North  Bridge,  the  story  of 
which  is  told  by  the  inscriptions  on  the  monuments  there.  Most 
pathetic  is  the  simple  inscription  which  marks  the  graves  of  unknown 
British  soldiers  killed  on  the  spot.  French's  bronze  Minuteman  fitly 
stands  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  at  about  the  point  where  the 
Americans  made  their  attack. 

House  of  the  First  Minister.  If  on  our  way  back  we  turn  to  the  right 
after  crossing  the  railroad  tracks,  and  then  to  the  left,  we  shall  pass  the 
site  of  the  house  in  which  Peter  Bulkeley,  the  first  Concord  minister, 
lived,  —  he  who  made  the  bargain  with  the  Indians  for  the  land  of  Con- 
cord, which  secured  to  the  colonists  its  "peaceful  possession."  This 
is  on  Lowell  Street,  and  a  few  steps  farther  and  facing  the  square, 
our  starting  point,  is  a  low  wooden  block,  a  part  of  which  was  one  of 
the  storehouses  sacked  by  the  British. 

Continuing  through  the  square  and  turning  to-  the  right,  the  first 
house  beyond  the  very  pretty  bank  building  is  one  a  part  of  which  is 
said  to  have  been  the  original  blockhouse  built  by  the  first  settlers  as 
a  defense  against  the  Indians.  Beyond,  on  the  left,  at  the  junction 
of  the  two  roads,  is  the 

Concord  Public  Library.  Here  are  some  interesting  busts  and  pictures, 
and  a  collection  —  astonishingly  large  —  of  books  written  by  residents 
of  Concord. 

Homes  of  the  Hoar  Family.  Continuing  on  the  main  street,  the  fourth 
house  from  the  blockhouse  was  the  home  of  Samuel  Hoar,  the  first 
of  the  name.  Here  were  born  his  eminent  sons,  the  late  Judge  Hoar 
and  Senator  Hoar.  The  next  house  was  the  home  of  the  late  Samuel 
Hoar,  the  eldest  son  of  Judge  Hoar;  and  the  next  beyond  that  is  the 
home  of  the  widow  of  Sherman  Hoar,  Judge  Hoar's  youngest  son.  On 
the  left,  near  the  corner  of  Thoreau  Street  and  secluded  by  a  hedge  of 
trees,  is  the 

Thoreau  House.  Here  Thoreau  lived  during  the  last  twelve  years  of 
his  life,  and  here  he  died  of  consumption.  The  Alcott  family  also 
lived  in  this  house  for  several  years.  The  site  of  Thoreau's  hut  by 
Walden  Pond  is  marked  by  a  cairn  made  by  visitors.  Still  continuing 
on  the  main  street  and  bearing  to  the  right,  we  find,  just  beyond  the 
little  stone  Episcopal  church  which  stands  on  the  left, 

The  Home  of  Frank  B.  Sanborn.  Here,  in  what  is  perhaps  the  pret- 
tiest house  in  Concord,  and  close  to  the  river,  lives  Frank  Sanborn, 
the  last  of  the  men  who  gave  Concord  a  world-wide  reputation,  and 
famous  as  an  antislavery  man,  as  schoolmaster,  lecturer,  and  author. 
A  mile  or  more  beyond  the  Sanborn  house  is 


NORTH   SHORE  159 

The  Concord  Reformatory.  This  institution,  intended  for  younger  and 
the  less  hardened  criminals,  is  a  large  one,  and  is  believed  to  be  a  model 
of  its  kind. 

Concord  Schools.  Concord  has  always  been  remarkable  for  its  schools ; 
and  besides  its  public  schools  it  contains  an  Episcopal  boarding  school, 
with  grounds  sloping  to  the  river,  not  far  from  the  Sanborn  house,  and 
also  a  Unitarian  boarding  school,  situated  on  the  road  to  Lowell,  about 
three  miles  beyond  the  village. 

Home  of  Edward  W.  Emerson.  On  the  same  road,  a  mile  or  so  beyond 
the  village,  is  the  home  of  Emerson's  only  son,  Dr.  Edward  W.  Emer- 
son, a  physician  and  artist,  and  the  author  of  that  most  valuable  and 
interesting  book,  "  Emerson  in  Concord." 

THE   NORTH   SHORE 

Lynn  (about  12  miles  distant  from  Boston)  can  be  reached  in  twenty 
minutes  by  steam  railroad  (Boston  &  Maine,  Eastern  Division,  from 
the  North  Station)  or  by  the  Boston,  Revere  Beach  &  Lynn  Railroad,  a 
longer  route  but  running  closer  to  the  sea,  which  begins  with  a  short 
trip  in  a  ferryboat,  taken  at  Rowe's  Wharf,  Atlantic  Avenue  (a  station 
of  the  elevated  railway  close  by).  If  time  can  be  spared,  one  may 
journey  pleasantly  to  Lynn  in  Boston  and  Northern  electric  cars,  taken 
in  the  Subway  at  the  Scollay  Square  station,  and  running  through  the 
Charlestown  District  (past  the  Navy  Yard),  Chelsea,  Revere,  and  thence 
straight  across  the  broad  Saugus  marshes  with  their  numerous  inlets, 
and  with  the  ocean  in  sight  on  the  extreme  right.     We  reach  first 

West  Lynn.  The  works  of  the  General  Electric  Company  and 
numerous  shoe  factories  are  here.      A  mile  or  so  beyond  is 

Lynn  proper,  a  great  shoe  city.  At  CentAl  Square  electric  cars  may 
be  taken  for  trips  in  various  directions,  especially  to  the  Lynn  Woods, 
the  beautiful  reservation  of  about  two  thousand  acres.  From  Central 
Square,  also,  "  barges  "  (a  kind  of  long-drawn  bus)  run  to  the  aristo- 
cratic summer  resort  of 

Nahant  ("  cold  roast  Boston  "),  the  oldest  of  eastern  summer  resorts, 
occupying  a  rocky  promontory.  On  the  extreme  point  is  the  summer 
home  of  Henry  Cabot  Lodge.  There  is  also  good  sea  bathing  here, 
cold  as  ice  water.  To  the  northeast  is  Egg  Rock  with  its  lighthouse, 
showing  a  fixed  red  light.  Returning  to  Lynn,  an  electric  may  be  taken, 
if  one  desires,  to 

Saugus.  Here  are  the  Boardman  houses,  so  called,  the  homes  of 
minutemen  in  1776,  and  "Appleton's  pulpit,"  a  huge  rock,  from  which 
in  September,   1687,  Major  Samuel  Appleton   of  Ipswich  harangued 


i6o 


MARBLEHEAD  AND  SALEM 


the  people  in  favor  of  resistance  to  Andros.     Here  also  is  the  site  of 
the  first  iron  mine  and  foundry  in  the  Colony. 

Returning  again  to  Lynn,  we  may  take  an  electric  car  for  Salem  via 
Swampscott  and  Marblehead,  —  a  pleasant  route  passing  many  summer 
homes  and  traversing  the  Lynn  Shore  Reservation  of  the  Metropolitan 
Parks  System,  which  at  its  northern  end  joins  King's  Beach  in  Swamp- 
scott.    Passing  Beach  Bluff  and  Clifton  Heights,  we  come  to 

Marblehead,  the  quaint,  irregular  town  with  crooked  streets  full  of 
old-time  suggestions.  Barges  or  a  steam  ferry  may  be  taken  here  to 
Marblehead  Neck,  the  site  of  a  summer  hotel  and  of  the  clubhouses 
of  the  Eastern  and  Corinthian  Yacht  Clubs.  At  the  north  end  of  the 
town  is  Fort  Sewall,  and  various  islands  are  in  sight,  notably  "  Misery  " 
island,  which  is  devoted  by  a  club  to  sports  and  merriment.  Features 
within  easy  walks  are  the  old  Town  Hall  with  memories  of  the  Revolu 
tion ;  the  birthplace  of  Elbridge  Gerry ;  remnant  of  the  historic  Jere 
miah  Lee  mansion ;  the  home  and  the  tomb  of  General  John  Glover 
whose  statue  is  in  Boston  (see  page  78) ;  St.  Michael's,  the  oldest  Epis 
copal  church  now  standing  in  New  England ;  the  "  Old  Floyd  Ireson ' 
house ;  birthplace  of  "  Moll  Pitcher,"  the  "  fortune  teller  of  Lynn " 
and  the  well  of  the  "Fountain  Inn,"  the  old  tavern  where  began  the 
romance  of  Agnes  Surriage.  From  Marblehead  we  may  go  by  electric 
car  or  by  steam  railroad  —  or  one  might  have  gone  directly  from  Bos- 
ton by  the  Boston  &  Maine  (North  Station)  —  to 


Salem,  once  the  chief  port  of  New  England.  Here  are  many  stately, 
reposeful  old  houses :  the  Custom  House,  in  which  Hawthorne  was 
employed ;  the  County  Jail  and  Court  House,  in  which  many  relics  of 
the  witchcraft  persecution  are  preserved ;  Gallows  Hill,  where  the 
condemned   were  hung ;    the    Roger   Williams   house ;    the    house   on 


TOWNS    NEAR  SALEM  161 

Federal  Street  in  which  Lafayette  was  entertained  in  1 784  and 
Washington  in  1789;  Hawthorne's  birthplace  on  Union  Street,  and 
various  Hawthorne  homes  and  landmarks ;  and  the  Pickering  mansion, 
built  in  1649.  Here  also  are  the  Essex  Institute  and  the  Peabody 
Academy  of  Science,  with  their  interesting  collections  of  documents, 
relics,  and  curiosities,  many  of  them  redolent  of  the  sea  and  foreign 
commerce. 

Near-by  towns  are 

Peabody,  named  for  George  Peabody,  the  London-American  banker, 
with  the  Peabody  Institute,  containing,  besides  many  relics,  a  portrait 
of  Queen  Victoria,  given  by  her  to  Mr.  Peabody ;  and 

Danvers,  the  home  of  General  Israel  Putnam,  and  at  one  time  of 
Whittier.  Here  stands  the  fine  old  Hooper  or  Collins  house,  one  of 
the  best  of  Provincial  mansions  remaining,  which  General  Gage  used 
as  his  headquarters  in  the  summer  of  1774;  and  not  far  away  is  the 
Colonial  farmhouse  once  occupied  by  Rebecca  Nourse,  the  good  house- 
wife and  kind  neighbor  who  was  executed  for  witchcraft. 

From  Salem  electric  cars  run  through  Beverly  to  the  tip  end  of  Cape 
Ann ;  but  from  Beverly  they  take  an  inland  course  through  the  towns 
of  Wenham,  Hamilton,  Essex,  and  West  Gloucester,  whereas  the 
Gloucester  branch  of  the  steam  railroad  diverges  to  the  east  at  Beverly 
and  runs  along  the  coast. 

Beverly,  settled  in  1628,  is  now  a  shoe  town  in  one  part  and  a  summer 
resort  in  the  other  parts.  There  are  many  wooded  walks  and  drives 
here,  and  through  Pride's  Crossing,  Beverly  Farms,  West  Manchester, 
and  Manchester-by-the-Sea,  noted  for  its  "singing  beach,"  which  gives 
forth  a  musical  note  as  one  walks  over  it.  Here  also  is  the  Masconomo 
House,  a  famous  summer  hotel  and  the  scene  of  open-air  drama. 
Beyond  are  Magnolia  and 

Gloucester,  the  port  from  which  the  hardy  fishermen  sail  to  "  The 
Banks  "  for  cod  and  haddock,  and  to  which  many  of  them  never  return. 
Kipling's  "  Captains  Courageous  "  is  the  best  guide  book  for  Gloucester. 
At  the  extreme  tip  of  Cape  Ann  is 

Rockport,  famous  for  its  granite  quarries,  for  its  breakwater,  built  by 
the  Federal  government,  and  for  its  rocky  scenery,  much  haunted  by 
artists.  The  Isles  of  Shoals  lie  off  the  shore,  and  also  Thatcher's  Island, 
with  its  twin  lights. 

Salem  Itinerary.  A  day  might  well  be  devoted  to  Salem  alone.  The 
following  itinerary,  arranged  for  the  visitor  who  has  only  an  hour  or  two 
for  its  exploration,  embraces  the  more  important  or  most  interesting 
places  and  sites. 


1 62  SALEM 

The  start  is  made  from  Town  House  Square  (Washington  Street  at 
the  crossing  of  Essex  Street),  a  little  way  above  the  railroad  station. 
On  Washington  Street,  between  the  station  and  the  square,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  railroad  tunnel,  is  seen  the 

Joshua  Ward  House  (No.  148),  in  which  Washington  passed  a  night 
when  in  Salem  on  his  tour  of  New  England  in  the  autumn  of  1789. 
He  occupied  the  northeast  chamber  of  the  second  story.  This  house 
is  on  the  site  of  the  dwelling  of  the  high  sheriff,  George  Corwin,  the 
executioner  of  the  witchcraft  victims  in  1692. 

From  Town  House  Square  turn  into  Essex  Street  east.  The  Unita- 
rian Church  on  the  southeast  corner  occupies  the  site  of  the 

First  Meetinghouse,  built  prior  to  1635  for  the  first  church  in  Salem, 
formed  in  1629.  The  present  is  the  fourth  in  succession  on  this  spot. 
The  second  one  was  the  place  of  the  examinations  of  the  unhappy 
accused  "  witches  "  before  the  deputy  governor  and  councilors  from 
Boston  in  April,  1692.  Beside  the  third  one,  "three  rods  west"  of  it, 
facing  Essex  Street,  stood  the 

Town  House  in  which  in  1774  met  the  last  General  Assembly  of  the 
Province  of  Massachusetts  Bay  and  the  first  Provincial  Congress.  A 
short  distance  up  Essex  Street,  at  No.  101,  is  the 

Peabody  Academy  of  Science  (founded  upon  an  endowment  by  George 
Peabody,  the  American  banker  in  London),  in  the  East  India  Marine 
Building.  This  contains  the  natural  history  and  ethnological  collec- 
tions of  the  Essex  Institute,  and  the  nautical  museum  of  the  East 
India  Marine  Society  (dating  from  1799),  with  large  additions,  so 
arranged  as  to  be  educational  rather  than  merely  entertaining.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  street,  at  No.  134,  is 

Plummer  Hall,  the  house  of  the  Salem  Athenceum  (proprietary  library, 
24,000  volumes).  This  occupies  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  William 
H.  Prescott,  the  historian,  was  born,  and  in  which  earlier  lived  Nathan 
Read,  who  invented  and  successfully  sailed  a  paddle-wheel  steamboat  in 
1 789,  some  years  before  Fulton.  In  Colony  days  the  Downing-Bradstreet 
house  was  here  (the  homestead  lot  being  covered  by  this  building  and 
its  neighbor,  the  Cadet  Armory),  first  the  home  of  the  Puritan  Emanuel 
Downing,  whose  son  George  Downing  gave  his  name  to  Downing  Street 
in  London,  and  afterward  that  of  Simon  Bradstreet,  the  last  colonial 
governor.     Next  above  Plummer  Hall  is  the 

Essex  Institute  (No.  132),  which  comprises  the  Institute  museum  of 
historical  objects,  manuscripts,  documents,  and  portraits,  many  and  rare, 
the  largest  and  most  notable  collection  of  its  kind  in  the  country ;  and 
the  library,  containing  about  85,000  volumes,  302,000  pamphlets,  and 
700  volumes  of  manuscript.     The  visitor  upon  entering  the  Institute 


SALEM 


163 


Birthplace  of  Hawthorne 


should  procure  a  copy  of  its  guide,  which  gives  the  details  of  the  inter- 
esting exhibit  here. 

From  Essex  Street  on  the  south  side,  just  above  these  institutions, 
turn  into  Union  Street,  which  leads  to  the 

Birthplace  of  Hawthorne,  in  the  ancient  gambrel-roofed  house,  No.  27. 
This  house  dates  from  before  1692,  and  belonged  to  Hawthorne's 
grandfather,  Daniel  Hathorne  (the  romancer  changed  the  spelling  of 
the  name)  after  1772.  Hawthorne  was 
born  (1804)  in  the  northwest  chamber. 
Back  of  this  house,  facing  on  Herbert 
Street,  is  the 

Herbert  Street  Hawthorne  House  (now 
a  tenement  house,  Nos.  ioj^  and  12), 
formerly  owned  by  Hawthorne's  mater- 
nal grandfather,  Manning,  in  which 
much  of  the  author's  boyhood  was 
passed,  and  where  he  afterward  lived 
and  wrote  at  intervals  during  his  man- 
hood. His  "  lonely  chamber  "  wras  the 
northwest  room  of  the  third  story. 

From  Derby  Street,  which  Union 
Street  crosses,  pass  to  Charter  Street  northward,  in  which  is  the 

Charter  Street  Burying  Ground,  "  Old  Burying  Point,"  dating  from 
1637,  fancifully  sketched  by  Hawthorne.  Here  are  graves  or  tombs  of 
Governor  Simon  Bradstreet ;  the  witchcraft  judge  Hathorne  and  other 
ancestors  of  Hawthorne;  the  two  chief  justices  Benjamin  Lynde, 
father  and  son ;  Nathaniel  Mather,  younger  brother  of  Cotton  Mather 
of  Boston,  precociously  learned  and  pious,  who  died  "  an  aged  man  at 
nineteen  years  " ;  Richard  More,  a  boy  passenger  on  the  Mayflower ; 
and  "  Dr.  John  Swinnerton,  physician,"  whose  name  Hawthorne  util- 
ized in  two  of  his  romances.      Adjoining  the  burying  ground  is  the 

"Dr.  Grimshawe"  House  (53  Charter  Street)  of  "Dr.  Grimshawe's 
Secret"  and  "The  Dolliver  Romance,"  —  the  home  of  Dr.  Nathaniel 
Peabody  at  the  time  of  Hawthorne's  courtship  of  Sophia  Amelia 
Peabody,  who  became  his  wife. 

On  Derby  Street,  a  short  distance   eastward,  is  the 

Salem  Custom  House.  The  office  which  Hawthorne  occupied  as  sur- 
veyor of  the  port  in  1 846-1 849  was  the  corner  room  of  the  first  floor, 
at  the  left  of  the  entrance.  The  stencil,  "  N.  Hawthorne,"  with  which 
he  marked  inspected  goods,  is  preserved  here  as  a  memento ;  the  desk 
upon  which  he  wrote  is  in  the  Essex  Institute.  The  room  in  which  he 
fancied  the  discovery  of  the  scarlet  letter  is  on  the  second  floor  of  the 


164 


SALEM 


easterly  side  of  the  building,  in  the  rear  of  the  collector's  office.  In 
Hawthorne's  time  this  was  an  unused  room,  with  boxes  and  barrels  of 
old  papers. 

Three  or  four  streets  east  of  the  Custom  House  is  Turner  Street,  by 
which  return  should  be  made  to  Essex  Street.  On  Turner  Street  the 
old  house  No.  54  is  marked  the 

House  of  the  Seven  Gables.  This  is  not  correct,  for  Hawthorne,  upon 
his  own  statement,  took  no  particular  house  for  his  model  in  the  romance 
of  this  name.  The  house  is  interesting,  however,  as  one  which  Haw- 
thorne much  frequented,  it  then  being  the  home  of  the  Ingersoll  family, 

his  relatives.     It  may 
j  have  suggested  the  title  of 

_  the  romance.     Here  the 

"Tales    of    Grandfather's 
Chair"  originated. 

From  Turner  Street  cross 
Essex  Street  to  Washington 
Square,  with  its  stately 
houses  of  early  nineteenth- 
century  build,  bordering  the 
fine  Common.  On  the  north 
side,  at  the  corner  of  Winter 
Street,  is  the 

Story  House,  in  which  lived 

Judge  Joseph  Story,  and 
Salem  Custom  House  ,  ,  ■  TIT.„. 

where  his  son,  William  W. 

larks  the  office  occupied  by  Hawthorne  c,  .,  ,      _j  1     , 

Story,  the  poet  and  sculptor, 
was  born.  On  Mall  Street,  the  second  street  from  this  side,  the  house 
No.  14  was 

Hawthorne's  Mall  Street  House,  where  "  The  Scarlet  Letter "  was 
written.     The  study  here  was  the  front  room  in  the  third  story. 

From  the  west  side  of  the  square  take  Brown  Street  to  St.  Peter's 
Street,  thence  pass  to  Federal  Street,  and  so  to  Washington  Street 
again  by  Town  House  Square.  On  Howard  Street,  north  from  Brown 
Street,  is  the  Prescott  Schoolhouse,  said  to  be  near  the  site  of  the  place 
where  Giles  Corey,  the  last  victim  of  the  witchcraft  frenzy,  was  pressed 
to  death.     On  Federal  Street  is  the  site  of  the 

Witchcraft  Jail  of  i6g2,  covered  by  the  house  (No.  2)  of  the  historical 
scholar,  Abner  C.  Goodell.  In  this  jail  the  persons  accused  of  witch- 
craft were  confined,  and  from  it  the  condemned  were  taken  to  the  place 
of  execution.  Some  of  the  timbers  of  the  old  jail  are  in  the  present 
house. 


The- 


SALEM  165 

On  Washington  Street,  just  about  where  Federal  Street  enters,  is  the 
site  of 

Governor  Endicotfs  "  faire  house."  At  the  southern  comer  of  Wash- 
ington and  Church  streets  stood  the 

Bishop  House,  where  in  1692  lived  Edward  and  Bridget  Bishop,  the 
latter  the  first  witchcraft  victim  to  be  hanged.  About  opposite,  on  the 
west  side  of  Washington  Street,  near  Lynde  Street,  was  the 

House  of  Nicholas  Noyes,  minister  of  the  first  church  at  the  time  of 
the  witchcraft  delusion,  and  a  firm  believer  in  witchcraft.  In  the  middle 
of  the  street  here  stood  the 

Court  House  of  i6g2,  where  the  witchcraft  trials  were  held.  In  the 
present  Court  House,  at  the  end  of  Washington  Street,  facing  Federal 
Street,  are 

Witchcraft  Documents  and  Relics,  in  the  custody  of  the  clerk  of  the 
courts.  Among  these  are  the  manuscript  records  of  the  testimony 
taken  at  the  trials,  the  death  warrant  of  Bridget  Bishop,  with  Sheriff 
Corwin's  return  thereon,  recording  that  he  had  "  caused  her  to  be  hanged 
by  the  neck  till  she  was  dead  and  buried,"  the  last  words  being  crossed 
with  a  pen,  apparently  by  the  careful  sheriff  on  second  thought ;  and 
some  of  the  "witch-pins"  which  were  produced  in  court  as  among  the 
instruments  of  torture  used  by  the  accused.  Through  Federal  Street 
west  and  North  Street  north  is  reached  the 

JVorth  Bridge,  in  place  of  the  bridge  of  Revolutionary  days,  where  the 
"first  armed  resistance  to  the  royal  authority  was  made"  on  a  Sunday 
in  February,  1775,  nearly  two  months  before  the  affair  at  Lexington  and 
Concord,  when  the  advance  of  the  British  force,  led  by  Lieutenant 
Colonel  Leslie,  to  seize  munitions  of  war,  was  arrested  by  the  people 
of  Salem.  A  spirited  painting,  "  The  Repulse  of  Leslie,"  is  in  the  Essex 
Institute. 

Return  through  North  Street  to  Essex  Street  west.  On  the  comer 
of  North  Street  (310  Essex  Street)  is  the 

Witch  House,  so  called  persistently  without  warrant  beyond  the  tra- 
dition that  some  of  the  preliminary  examinations  of  accused  persons 
were  held  here,  it  being  at  the  time  of  the  delusion  the  dwelling  of 
Judge  Jonathan  Corwin  of  the  court.  It  is  said  to  have  been  earlier 
the  home  of  Roger  Williams  (in  163 5-1 636).  It  is  the  oldest  house 
now  standing  in  Salem. 

Through  Summer  Street  from  Essex  pass  to  Chestnut  Street,  lined 
with  great  elms  and  bordered  by  many  fine  old-time  mansions.  At 
No.  18  was 

Hawthorne' 's  Chestnut  Street  House,  which  he  occupied  less  than  two 
years  at  the  beginning  of  the  surveyorship  period.     Little  literary  work 


i66 


SALEM 


appears  to  have  been  done  here.  At  an  earlier  period  John  Pickering, 
the  Greek  lexicographer,  lived  in  this  house.  On  Broad  Street,  the 
next  street  south,  at  No.   18,  is  the  many-gabled 

Pickering  House,  dating  back  to  1660,  the  birthplace  of  Timothy 
Pickering,  the  distinguished  soldier  and  statesman  of  the  Revolution 
and  member  of  Washington's  cabinet.  Opposite,  at  the  head  of  Broad 
Street,  is  a  succession  of  school  buildings,  — 

The  Latin  and  High  Schools,  the  former  of  which  is  one  of  the  oldest 
in  the  country.      Behind  these  buildings  is  the 

Broad  Street  Burying  Ground,  second  in  age  to  the  Charter  Street 
Burying  Ground,  having  been  laid  out  in  1655.     Here  are  the  tombs 

of  the  Pickerings,  of  Corwin,  the  witch- 
craft sheriff,  and  of  General  Frederick 
W.  Lander. 

Return  to  Essex  Street,  and  after  a 
call  at  the  Public  Library  (No.  370),  on 
the  corner  of  Monroe  Street,  and  a 
glance  at  the  fine  old-time  mansions  of 
the  neighborhood,  —  notably  the  Cabot 
house,  dating  from  1748,  for  a  third 
of  a  century  the  home  of  William  C. 
Endicott,  justice  of  the  State  Supreme 
Court  and  member  of  President  Cleve- 
land's cabinet,  —  take  a  car  for 

Gallows  Hill,  where  the  nineteen 
victims  of  witchcraft  were  hanged.  It 
is  on  Boston  Street  (the  old  Boston 
Road),  approached  from  Hanson  Street,  where  the  conductor  should 
be  signaled  to  stop. 

Returned  to  Town  House  Square,  the  visitor  may,  if  he  have  time, 
spend  a  few  minutes  profitably  in  the  City  Plall  in  looking  over  the 
unusual  collection  of  portraits  here.  They  include  a  Washington 
painted  by  Jane  Stuart,  a  copy  of  a  half-length  portrait  by  her  father, 
Gilbert  Stuart ;  a  portrait  of  President  Andrew  Jackson  by  Major  R. 
E.  W.  Earle  of  his  military  family  in  1833;  and  portraits  of  Endicott. 
South  of  the  railroad  station  is  a  nest  of  old  buildings  in  old  streets, 
among  them  the  Ruck  house,  8  Mill  Street,  dating  from  before  1651, 
interesting  as  the  sometime  home  of  Richard  Cranch,  where  John 
Adams  frequently  visited  (Adams  and  Cranch  married  sisters),  and 
at  a  later  time  occupied  by  John  Singleton  Copley,  the  Boston  painter,, 
when  here  painting  the  portraits  of  Salem  worthies. 


Chestnut  Street,  Salem 


THE  SOUTH  SHORE  167 


THE  SOUTH  SHORE 

The  pleasant  places  along  the  South  Shore  between  Quincy  and 
Plymouth  are  brought  into  connection  with  Boston  and  with  each  other 
by  electric-car  systems,  while  the  steam  railroad  traverses  the  country 
closest  to  the  shore.  The  most  direct  electric-car  route  from  Boston 
to  Plymouth  is  through  Quincy,  Braintree,  South  Braintree,  Holbrook, 
Brockton,  Whitman,  Hanson,  Pembroke,  the  Plymouth  Woods,  West 
Duxbury,  and  Kingston.  For  this  route  the  Neponset  car  should  be 
taken  at  the  Dudley  Street  terminal  of  the  Elevated.  The  trunk  line 
continues  through  Quincy  to  Brockton,  where  change  is  made  to  the 
Plymouth  line.  Other  lines  between  Quincy  and  Brockton  pass  through 
Quincy  Point,  across  Weymouth  Fore  River,  through  Weymouth,  cross- 
ing Weymouth  Back  River,  Hingham,  the  Old  Colony  Woods,  Nan- 
tasket,  Hingham  Center,  Rockland,  and  Whitman,  making  connection 
at  the  latter  place  with  the  Plymouth  line. 

The  pleasantest  steam-railroad  journey  is  by  the  South  Shore  route 
(New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  system,  South  Station),  passing 
through  Quincy,  Braintree,  Weymouth,  Hingham,  Cohasset,  Scituate, 
Marshfield,  Duxbury,  and  Kingston,  to  Plymouth.  The  more  direct 
route  is  by  the  main  line  through  Braintree,  South  Weymouth,  Abington, 
Whitman,  Hanson,  Halifax,  and  Kingston. 

Hingham  is  one  of  the  loveliest  as  well  as  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in 
Massachusetts  (settled  in  1633).  Its  broad  main  street  is  shaded  by 
magnificent  elms.  Its  Old  Ship  Church,  with  pyramidal  roof  and  bel- 
fry, dating  from  168 1,  is  the  oldest  existing  meetinghouse  in  the  country, 
and  the  quaintest.  In  the  burying  ground  near  it  is  the  grave  of  John 
A.  Andrew,  the  war  governor,  marked  with  a  statue  by  Gould.  Com- 
fortable mansions  of  old  type  abound  in  the  town.  On  a  sightly  hill  is 
the  home  of  John  D.  Long,  governor,  congressman,  and  Secretary  of  the 
Navy. 

Cohasset,  with  irregular  rocky  coast,  commanding  a  wide  extent  of 
ocean  prospect,  is  the  most  favored  place  of  the  upper  South  Shore  for 
summer  seats.  On  and  about  its  quite  renowned  Jerusalem  Road  are 
numerous  extensive  estates  with  elaborate  houses  and  grounds.  The 
Jerusalem  Road  to  an  unusual  degree  blends  the  charms  of  sea  and 
shore. 

Scituate  also  enjoys  a  beautiful  ocean  front,  with  fair  beaches  and  a 
pretty  harbor,  protected  by  rocky  cliffs.  This  town  is  the  scene  0/"  Sam- 
uel Woodworth's  lyric,  "  The  Old  Oaken  Bucket."  The  old  farm  where 
the  poet  was  born,  which  he  immortalized  in  his  song,  was  close  by  the 
present  railroad  station. 


168  MARSHFIELD  AND  DUXBURY 

Marshfield  was  the  country  home  of  Daniel  Webster.  The  Webster 
place  is  some  distance  from  the  railroad,  eastward.  The  ride  or  walk 
to  it  is  along  a  country  hillside  road,  from  which  beautiful  views  occa- 
sionally disclose  themselves.  The  place  originally  included  a  part  of 
"  Careswell,"  the  domain  of  the  Plymouth  Colony  governor,  Edward 
Winslow.  Half  a  mile  back  from  it  is  the  tomb  of  Webster,  on  Burying 
Hill,  a  tranquil  spot  among  fields  and  pastures  overlooking  the  sea. 
Before  the  tomb,  of  rough-hewn  granite,  a  plain  marble  slab  displays 
the  epitaph  which  Webster  dictated  the  day  before  his  death  (1852). 
In  this  inclosure  are  monuments  to  early  Pilgrim  settlers. 

Duxbury,  the  home  of  Elder  Brewster,  Miles  Stan  dish,  and  John  and 
Priscilla  Alden,  is  marked  by  the  Standish  Monument  on  Captain's  Hill, 
which  looms  up  in  the  landscape,  visible  in  a  wide  extent  of  country 
round  about.  Here  is  still  standing  the  Standish  Cottage,  containing,  it 
is  believed,  some  of  the  materials  of  Standish's  own  house,  on  the  slope 
of  Captain's  Hill;  and  in  another  part  of  the  town  is  the  ancient  Alden 
homestead,  on  the  original  Alden  farm,  which  can  be  seen  from  the 
windows  of  the  railroad  car.  In  about  the  middle  of  the  village,  in  the 
oldest  of  its  burying  grounds,  the  supposed  grave  of  Standish  is  marked 
by  a  monument,  —  a  miniature  fortress.  Here  are  also  graves  of  the 
Alden  family,  and  possibly  the  grave  of  Elder  Brewster. 

Kingston,  part  of  Plymouth  till  1726,  when  setting  up  for  itself  it 
took  its  name  of  King's  town  in  honor  of  George  the  Second,  on  his 
birthday,  is  a  typical  Old  Colony  town,  with  a  cheerful  air  of  substan- 
tiality. It  has  a  number  of  interesting  landmarks,  the  most  notable 
being  the  Major  fohn  Bradford  house.  Major  John  was  the  last  of 
the  Bradford  family  to  possess  the  Bradford  manuscript,  now  returned 
from  its  adventures  and  safely  housed  in  the  State  House  at  Boston 
(see  p.  43). 

Plymouth  is  entered  by  either  the  railroad  or  the  trolley  line,  close  to 
its  historic  points.  A  walk  not  fatiguing  from  its  length  will  embrace 
them  all.  If  arrival  is  made  by  trolley  car,  the  National  Monument  is 
passed  at  the  entrance  to  the  town.  It  is  but  a  short  distance  from 
the  railroad  station,  and  if  the  visitor  comes  by  train  it  might  well  be 
visited  first,  although  it  is  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the  other 
Pilgrim  sites.  The  way  is  through  Old  Colony  Park,  a  short  tree-lined 
walk  from  the  rear  of  the  station  to  Court  Street,  thence,  to  the  right, 
to  Cushman  Street  and  to  Allerton  Street.  The  great  granite  pile, 
surmounted  by  the  colossal  figure  of  Faith,  and  with  groups  of  sitting 
figures,  is  seen  placed  to  advantage  in  a  broad  open  space  on  the  crown 
of  a  hill.  It  was  designed  by  Hammatt  Billings,  and  finally  completed 
nearly  thirty  years  after  the  corner  stone  was  laid. 


PLYMOUTH 


169 


Returning  to  Court  Street  and  approaching  the  town  center,  Pilgrim 
Hall  is  reached,  a  little  way  beyond  the  head  of  Old  Colony  Park.  In 
the  front  yard  is  a  stone  tablet  inscribed  with  the  words  of  the  compact 
signed  in  the  cabin  of  the  Mayflower.  The  collection  in  the  halls  of 
the  building,  comprising  Pilgrim  antiquities,  paintings,  prints,  and  other 
historical  objects,  is  of  great  extent  and  value.  Most  interesting  to 
many  visitors  is  the 
Standish  case, 
which  is  the 
doughty  cap- 
tain's sword, 
said  to  be  of 
early  Persian 
make. 

Above  Pil- 
grim Hall   is 
the  County  t 
House,  on  the  oppo- 
site   side    of    the    street,    back 
from  a  green  park,  in  which  are 
precious  documents   of  Pilgrim 
days.     These  are  preserved  in 
the    office    of    the    registry    of 
deeds,  and  include  papers  bear- 
ing the  signatures  of  Bradford 
and    Standish,  orders  in   Brad- 
ford's handwriting,  Standish's 
will,  the  plan  of  the  first  allot- 
ment of  lands,  the  plotting  of 
the  first  street  (the  present 
Leyden  Street),  and  the  original  patent  of  1629  granted  to  Bradford 
and  his  associates. 

North  Street,  just  above  the  Court  House,  to  the  right  from  Court 
Street,  leads  to  Plymouth  Rock,  under  the  high  granite  canopy  also 
designed  by  Billings.  The  side  gates  in  the  iron  railing  are  open  dur- 
ing the  daytime  so  that  visitors  may  step  upon  the  stone.  Close  by  is 
Pilgrim  Wharf. 

Cole's  Hill,  where  the  first  houses  of  the  colonists  were  set  up,  and 
where  their  first  burials  were  made  in  unmarked  graves,  rises  from  the 
opposite  side  of  Water  Street,  reduced  and  rounded  now  from  a  ragged 
elevation  to  a  symmetrical  green  mound.  On  the  brow  is  a  small  park 
overlooking  the  harbor.     Here  at  the  head  of    Middle  Street,  which 


Plymouth 


*76  PLYMOUTH 

opens  from  Carver  Street,  a  tablet  marks  the  spot  where  the  skeletons 
of  two  of  the  forty-four  Pilgrims,  nearly  half  the  number,  who  died  dur- 
ing the  first  hard  winter,  were  found  a  century  and  a  half  after.  These 
remains,  with  parts  of  five  other  skeletons,  are  entombed  in  the  chamber 
of  the  canopy  over  the  rock. 

Leyden  Street,  next  beyond  Middle  Street,  the  first  and  chief  Pilgrim 
street,  leads  up  to  Burial  Hill.  Beyond  its  start  at  Carver  Street  the 
site  of  the  first,  or  "  common,"  house  is  seen,  marked  conspicuously,  on 
the  left  side. 

Burial  Hill  rises  abruptly  from  elm-shaded  Town  Square,  a  block 
from  Main  Street,  practically  a  continuation  of  Court  Street.  Odd 
Fellows  Building,  on  the  corner  of  Main  Street,  marks  the  site  of  Gov- 
ernor Bradford's  house.  The  site  of  the  first  meetinghouse  is  supposed 
to  be  covered  by  the  tower  of  this  building.  Burial  Hill  was  the  place 
of  the  first  forts,  which  served  also  as  meetinghouses,  and  these  are 
marked  by  oval  tablets  in  the  burying  ground.  The  spot  where  the 
watch  house  was  erected  in  1643  *s  similarly  marked.  The  most  impor- 
tant monuments  here  are  over  the  graves  of  the  Bradfords  and  of  the 
Cushmans.  The  Governor  Bradford  obelisk  occupies  a  point  com- 
manding the  fullest  view  of  the  town  below.  Among  other  graves  of 
note  here  are  those  of  John  Howland,  the  last  survivor  in  Plymouth  of 
the  Mayflower  passengers,  and  Adoniram  Judson,  the  Plymouth  min- 
ister, father  of  Adoniram  Judson,  the  early  missionary  to  Burma. 

Watson's  Hill,  where  the  first  Indians  appeared  to  the  colonists,  and 
whence  came  the  friendly  Samoset  and  after  him  Massasoit,  lies  to  the 
southward  of  Burial  Hill.  And  below  is  seen  the  Town  Brook  crossing, 
where  Massasoit  and  his  braves  were  met  by  the  Puritan  leaders,  from 
which  meeting  resulted  the  famous  "  league  of  peace." 


HARBOR  AND  BAY  171 

V.    EXCURSIONS    AND    TOURS 
HARBOR  AND  BAY 

To  Pemberton  (Hull)  and  Nantasket.  By  steamboats  of  Nantasket 
Beach  Steamboat  Company.  Hourly  from  Rowe's  Wharf  (Atlantic 
Avenue  circuit  elevated  railway  station  at  door).  Fare,  25  cents  each 
way.  Passengers  have  their  choice  of  going  to  Nantasket  by  boat  or 
landing  at  Pemberton  and  continuing  to  Nantasket  along  the  shore 
by  the  electric  trains  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Rail- 
road. Stations  at  Stony  Beach,  Allerton,  Waveland,  Kenberma,  Bay- 
side,  and  Windermere. 

To  Crow  Point  and  Hingham.  By  steamboats  of  above-named  company 
from  same  wharf.     Fare,  25  cents  each  wTay. 

To  Plymouth.  By  steamboats  of  above-named  company  from  same 
wharf.  Fare,  75  cents  each  way.  At  Plymouth  carriages  are  at  the 
wharf  for  the  tour  of  the  town.  Plymouth  is  also  reached  by  railroad 
and  electric  lines  (see  South  Shore,  under  Day  Trips). 

To  Provincetown.  By  steamer  Cape  Cod  from  Snow's  Arch  Wharf, 
near  Rowe's  Wharf  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit,  elevated  railway 
(for  details,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers),  or  by  trains  of  the 
New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad  (Plymouth  Division)  from 
South  Station.  The  trip  by  water  across  the  bay  is  very  pleasant  on  a 
calm  day.  The  steamer  remains  at  Provincetown  for  an  hour  or  two, 
giving  visitors  opportunity  to  look  over  the  quaint  town,  and  especially 
the  great  sand  dunes  which  rise  back  of  it  and  break  off  the  strong 
northeast  gales. 

To  Hough's  Neck  (a  pleasant  resort  in  the  city  of  Quincy).  By  steam- 
boats from  Snow's  Arch  Wharf,  four  times  daily. 

To  Nahant.  By  steamboats  from  Lincoln  Wharf,  close  to  Battery 
Street  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit,  elevated  railway.  The  boats 
pass  out  through  Shirley  Gut,  between  Winthrop  and  Deer  Island. 
(For  details  of  sailing,  fares,  etc.,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers.) 

To  Gloucester.  By  steamboats  from  Central  Wharf,  near  State  Street 
station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit.  Fare,  50  cents  each  way  ;  round  trip, 
75  cents.  (For  details  of  times  of  sailing,  see  advertisements  in  daily 
papers.)  The  boats  of  this  line  pass  along  the  picturesque  North  Shore 
for  the  whole  way,  making  a  delightful  trip.  Gloucester  is  also  reached 
by  railroad  and  electric  lines  (see  North  Shore,  under  Day  Trips). 

To  Newburyport  and  Haverhill.  By  steamboats  from  Lewis  Wharf, 
near  Battery  Street  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit.  (For  details  of 
sailings,  etc.,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers.) 


72  MAINE   COAST  AND   CANADIAN   POINTS 


THE  MAINE   COAST  AND  RIVER  POINTS 

To  Portland.  By  steamboats  of  the  Eastern  Steamship  Company 
from  India  Wharf,  near  Rowe's  Wharf  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit. 
Every  evening  at  7.  Fare,  #1.25  each  way;  stateroom  extra,  according 
to  location. 

To  Rockland  and  Bangor.  By  steamboats  of  above-named  company 
from  Foster's  Wharf,  near  Rowe's  Wharf  station.  Every  evening 
(except  Sunday)  at  5.  These  boats  connect  at  Rockland  with  steamers 
of  the  same  line  for  Mount  Desert ;  also  with  boats  for  various  island 
and  shore  resorts  in  Penobscot  Bay. 

To  Bar  Harbor  (Mount  Desert).  By  trains  of  the  Boston  &  Maine 
Railroad  (North  Station)  to  Portland,  at  7  p.m.,  Tuesdays  and  Fridays ; 
connecting  at  Portland  with  steamer  Frank  Jones  of  the  Portland,  Mount 
Desert  &  Machias  Steamboat  Company,  which  leaves  at  1 1  p.m.,  arrives 
at  Rockland  early  in  the  morning,  and  thence  proceeds  by  daylight 
through  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  islands  in  Penobscot  Bay,  touch- 
ing at  Islesboro,  Castine,  Deer  Isle,  Sedgwick,  Blue  Hill,  Brooklin, 
Southwest  Harbor,  Northeast  Harbor,  and  arrives  at  Bar  Harbor  at 
about  2  p.m.     Returning,  leaves  Bar  Harbor  at  about  10  a.m. 

To  Bath  and  Augusta.  By  steamers  of  the  Eastern  Steamship  Com- 
pany from  Union  Wharf,  near  Battery  Street  station,  Atlantic  Avenue 
circuit.     Every  evening  (except  Sunday)  at  6. 

CANADIAN  POINTS 

To  Eastport,  Me.,  and  St.  John,  N.B.  By  steamers  of  the  Eastern 
Steamship  Company  from  Commercial  Wharf,  near  State  Street  station, 
Atlantic  Avenue  circuit.     Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays. 

To  Yarmouth,  N.S.  By  steamers  of  the  Dominion  Atlantic  Railway 
Company  from  Long  Wharf  (elevated  railway  station  at  the  door). 
(For  details  of  sailings,  etc.,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers.)  At 
Yarmouth  connections  are  made  with  other  steamers  of  the  line  for 
ports  along  the  south  shore  of  Nova  Scotia;  also  with  trains  of  the 
Dominion  Atlantic  Railway  for  the  "  Land  of  Evangeline,"  the  Annap- 
olis Valley,  Halifax,  and  (via  Digby  and  steamer  across  the  Bay  of 
Fundy)  St.  John,  N.B. 

To  Halifax,  N.S.,  Cape  Breton,  and  Prince  Edward  Islands.  By  steam- 
ers of  the  Plant  Line  from  Lewis  Wharf,  near  Battery  Street  station, 
Atlantic  Avenue  circuit.  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays  at  noon.  At  Halifax 
connect  with  trains  of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  for  all  parts  of  Nova 
Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  and  Quebec;  at  Hawkesbury,  C.B.,  with  trains 


COASTWISE  POINTS  173 

of  the  Intercolonial  Railway  for  the  Bras  d'Or  Lake,  Sydney,  and  Louis- 
burg;  at  Charlottetown,  P.E.L,  with  trains  of  the  Prince  Edward  Island 
Railway  for  all  parts  of  the  island.  At  Sydney,  C.B.,  the  steamer  Brtice 
may  be  taken  for  Port  aux  Basques,  Newfoundland,  connecting  there 
with  the  Reid  Newfoundland  Company's  railroad  across  the  island  of 
St.  John's,  a  journey  of  twenty-eight  hours. 

OTHER   COASTWISE  POINTS 

To  New  York  around  Cape  Cod,  through  Vineyard  Sound  and  Long 
Island  Sound.  By  steamers  of  the  Joy  Steamship  Company  from 
wharf  near  the  South  Boston  end  of  the  Congress  Street  bridge.  (For 
details,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers.) 

To  Philadelphia.  By  steamers  of  the  Boston  &  Philadelphia  Steam- 
ship Company  from  India  Wharf,  near  Rowe's  Wharf  station,  Atlantic 
Avenue  circuit.  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  at  3  p.m.  Fare, 
$10  each  way;  round  trip,  $18,  including  meals  and  stateroom  berth. 

To  Norfolk  and  Baltimore.  By  steamers  of  the  Merchants  and  Miners 
Transportation  Company  from  Battery  Wharf  (station  of  elevated  rail- 
way at  the  door).  Tuesdays,  Wednesdays,  Fridays,  and  Saturdays,  at 
2  P.M. 

To  Savannah,  Ga.  By  steamers  of  the  Ocean  Steamship  Company 
from  Lewis  Wharf,  near  Battery  Street  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit. 
Wednesdays,  at  3  p.m. 

To  Charleston,  S.C.  By  steamers  of  the  Clyde  Line.  Twice  a  week. 
(For  details,  see  advertisements  in  daily  papers.) 

To  Jamaica.  By  steamers  of  the  United  Fruit  Company  from  Long 
Wharf,  State  Street  station,  Atlantic  Avenue  circuit.  Sailings  twice  a 
week.  Fare,  $35  each  way  ;  round  trip,  $60,  meals  and  stateroom  berth 
included,  during  the  summer  season.  (For  details,  see  advertisements  in 
daily  papers.) 

RAILROAD   TOURS 

To  Hyannis.  By  trains  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hartford 
Railroad,  Plymouth  Division  (South  Station).  Eight  trains  daily.  A 
journey  of  about  two  hours  and  a  half,  via  Bridge  water,  Middleboro, 
Buzzards  Bay,  and  Yarmouth. 

To  Woods  Hole.  By  the  same  route  as  the  above  to  Buzzards  Bay ; 
thence  via  Monument  Beach  and  Falmouth.  Trains  and  running  time 
are  about  the  same  as  to  Hyannis.  At  Woods  Hole  is  the  Marine 
Biological  Laboratory,  incorporated  in  1888  and  opened  in  the  summer 
of  that  year.     Here  investigations  in  marine  biology  are  systematically 


174  RAILROAD  TOURS 

and  constantly  pursued  by  a  corps  of  scientists,  aided  during  the  summer 
months  by  students  from  several  of  the  universities. 

To  Martha's  Vineyard  and  Nantucket.  By  trains  to  Woods  Hole,  as 
above  ;  thence  by  steamers  of  the  Marine  District,  New  York,  New 
Haven  &  Hartford  Railroad.  Train  from  Boston  at  1.38  p.m.  makes 
close  connection  at  Woods  Hole.  At  Nantucket  the  steamer  connects 
with  trains  of  the  Nantucket  Central  Railroad  for  Siasconset. 

To  Newport,  R.I.  By  trains  of  the  New  York,  New  Haven  &  Hart- 
ford Railroad,  Providence  Division  (South  Station).  Eight  times  daily 
(from  Back  Bay  station  four  minutes  later),  via  Mansfield,  Taunton,  and 
Fall  River.  A  journey  of  about  two  hours.  Also  by  trains  of  the  same 
division  to  Providence,  R.I.,  frequently  through  the  day,  a  ride  of  one 
hour;  thence  by  steamers  of  the  Providence,  Fall  River  &  Newport 
Steamboat  Company.  The  ride  down  Narragansett  Bay  is  very  beau- 
tiful.    Round  trip,  60  cents. 

To  the  White  Mountains.  By  trains  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad 
(North  Station),  Southern  Division,  via  Lowell,  Nashua,  Manchester, 
Concord,  and  Franklin,  N.H.;  Western  Division,  via  Lawrence,  Haver- 
hill, Dover,  and  Rochester,  N.H. ;  Eastern  Division,  via  Salem,  New- 
buryport,  Portsmouth,  and  Rochester,  N.H.  (or  via  Portland,  Me.,  and 
Maine  Central  Railroad  by  Sebago  Lake  and  Bartlett,  N.H.) ;  to  all 
mountain  points.  By  either  route  a  choice  of  two  or  three  through 
trains  daily  can  usually  be  had.  The  exact  leaving  time  of  each  train 
can  be  obtained  from  advertisements  in  the  daily  papers,  or  by  inquiry 
at  the  information  booth  in  the  waiting  room  of  the  North  Station,  or 
at  the  company's  up-town  passenger  office,  corner  of  Washington 
and  Milk  streets,  where  tickets  may  be  bought  and  parlor-car  seats  or 
Pullman  berths  secured. 

To  Lake  Champlain,  Vermont  Resorts,  Montreal,  and  Canadian  Points. 
By  trains  of  the  Boston  &  Maine  Railroad,  Southern  Division,  via  Lowell, 
Concord,  N.H.,  White  River  Junction,  Vt.,  and  Vermont  Central  Rail- 
road ;  Fitchburg  Division,  via  Fitchburg,  Keene,  N.H.,  Brattleboro  and 
White  River  Junction,  Vt.,  and  Vermont  Central  Railroad;  or  via  Rut- 
land, Vt.,  and  the  Rutland  Railroad  to  Burlington ;  thence  through  the 
midst  of  Lake  Champlain,  over  its  beautiful  islands  to  Alburgh,  and 
on  to  St.  Johns,  P.Q.  The  same  remarks  as  to  train  service,  hours  of 
leaving,  etc.,  apply  as  in  the  case  of  the  White  Mountain  trips. 

To  Saratoga,  Lake  George,  and  the  Adirondacks.  By  trains  of  the  Bos- 
ton &  Maine  Railroad,  Fitchburg  Division,  via  Fitchburg,  Greenfield, 
North  Adams,  and  the  Hoosac  Tunnel.  The  same  remarks  as  to  train 
service,  etc.,  apply  as  in  the  case  of  the  two  last  outlined  trips. 


IMPORTANT   POINTS    OF  INTEREST  1 75 

VI.  IMPORTANT  POINTS  OF  INTEREST 

For  the  Visitor  whose  Time  is  limited 

The  visitor  who  has  only  two  or  three  days  to  spend  in  Boston  will  find  the 
following  list  of  leading  points  of  interest  helpful  in  arranging  an  itinerary. 

Old  South  Meetinghouse.  Washington  Street,  corner  of  Milk  Street.  Loan 
historical  collection  here.     Open  week  days  from  9  a.m.  to  6  p.m.     Fee,  25  cents. 

Old  State  House.  Head  of  State  Street.  Memorial  halls  with  historical  col- 
lections. Open  from  9  a.m.  to  4.30  p.m.;  Saturdays  from  9.30  to  4.  Free. 
(Temporarily  closed,  summer  of  1903,  on  account  of  Subway  building  beneath  it.) 

Faneuil  Hall.  Faneuil  Hall  Square.  Also  military  museum  of  the  Ancient 
and  Honorable  Artillery  Company  in  their  armory  on  the  upper  floors.  Open 
from  10  a.m.  to  4  p.m.,  except  Saturdays  and  Sundays.     Free. 

King's  Chapel.  Tremont  Street,  corner  of  School  Street.  Dating  from  1754. 
Interesting  interior. 

King's  Chapel  Burying  Ground.  Tremont  Street,  adjoining  the  Chapel. 
Oldest  in  Boston,  established  at  about  the  time  of  the  settlement.  Contains 
tombs  of  the  Winthrops,  John  Cotton,  Governor  Leverett,  and  numerous  other 
Colonial  families. 

Granary  Burying  Ground.  Tremont  Street,  midway  between  Beacon  and 
Park  streets.  Dating  from  1660.  Tombs  and  graves  of  governors  of  the  Colony 
and  the  Commonwealth,  and  of  Samuel  Adams,  James  Otis,  John  Hancock,  Paul 
Revere,  Peter  Faneuil,  the  parents  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  with  many  others  of 
distinction  or  interest. 

Park  Street  Church.  Corner  of  Tremont  and  Park  streets.  Dating  from 
1809.  Historic.  Interesting  specimen  of  early  nineteenth-century  architecture, 
notably  the  tower  and  spire. 

St.  Paul's  Church.  Tremont  Street,  near  Temple  Place,  opposite  the  Com- 
mon. Dating  from  1820.  Interesting  interior.  Pew  No.  25  that  of  Daniel 
Webster. 

State  House.  Beacon  Hill.  Beacon  Street  and  State  House  Park.  Front 
part  —  the  "  Bulfinch  Front"  so  called  —  built  1795-1797;  the  extension  erected 
1889-1895.  Decorated  interior.  Numerous  interesting  features.  Memorial  Hall, 
with  the  battle  flags,  statues,  and  portraits.  The  "  Bradford  manuscript"  in  the 
State  Library.     State  House-  Park,  with  statues  and  monument. 

Shaw  Monument.  Beacon  Street  against  the  Common,  opposite  the  State 
House.  Memorial  to  Colonel  Robert  G.  Shaw,  commander  of  the  first  regiment 
of  colored  troops  in  the  Civil  War.     A  statue  in  high  relief  upon  a  bronze  tablet. 

Boston  Athenaeum.  10%  Beacon  Street.  Proprietary  library.  Dating  from 
1807,  oldest  in  the  country.     Interesting  interior. 


176  IMPORTANT   POINTS   OF  INTEREST 

House  of  the  Historic  Genealogical  Society.  18  Somerset  Street.  Contains 
the  most  extensive  and  valuable  genealogical  collection  known.  Open  to  visitors 
without  fee  or  charge  from  9  a.m.  to  5.30  p.m.  daily,  except  Sundays  and  holidays. 

Old  West  Church.  Cambridge  Street,  corner  of  Lynde  Street,  West  End. 
Now  the  West  End  Branch  of  the  Public  Library.  Built  in  1806.  Interior 
architecture  well  preserved.  Successor  of  the  West  Church  of  the  Revolutionary 
period,  which  was  occupied  as  barracks  by  the  British,  who  pulled  down  the 
steeple  and  used  it  for  firewood,  the  patriots  having  employed  it  for  signaling 
the  camp  at  Cambridge. 

Christ  Church.  Salem  Street,  North  End.  Oldest  existing  church  in  Boston. 
Interesting  interior.     Open  daily.     Fee,  including  view  from  the  tower,  25  cents. 

Copp's  Hill  Burying  Ground.  Hull  Street,  opening  opposite  to  Christ  Church. 
Oldest  part  dating  from  1660.     Historic  tombs  and  graves. 

Paul  Revere' s  House.  North  Square;  also  various  other  old  houses  and  his- 
toric sites  of  the  North  End. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument.  Monument  Square,  Charlestown  District.  A  few 
minutes'  ride  on  the  elevated  railway  from  the  North  Station  station.  Revolu- 
tionary relics  in  the  lodge.     Open  from  8  a.m.  to  6  p.m.     Fee,  20  cents. 

United  States  Navy  Yard.  Approach  from  City  Square  through  Chelsea  Street, 
Charlestown  District.     Naval  Museum  open  from  9  a.m.  to  4  p.m.     Free. 

Natural  History  Museum.  Berkeley  Street,  corner  of  Boylston  Street,  Back 
Bay.  Open  week  days  from  9  a.m.  to  5  p.m.,  with  the  exception  of  Wednesdays 
and  Saturdays,  when  the  hours  are  10  a.m.  to  5  p.m.  Free  on  these  days ;  fee 
at  other  times,  25  cents. 

Art  Museum.  Copley  Square,  Back  Bay.  Open  week  days  from  9  a.m.  to 
5  p.m.,  with  the  exception  of  Mondays,  when  the  hours  are  1  to  5  p.m.  Free  on 
Saturdays  and  Sundays  (Sunday  hours  from  1  to  3  p.m.)  ;  fee  other  times,  25 
cents. 

Public  Library.  Copley  Square,  Back  Bay.  Mural  decorations  by  John  S. 
Sargent,  Edwin  A.  Abbey,  and  Puvis  de  Chavannes.  Largest  library  in  the 
world  for  free  circulation.  Open  daily  from  9  a.m.  to  9  p.m.  (through  the  summer 
months;  other  seasons  till  10  p.m.)  ;  Sunday  from  2  to  9  p.m.  (summer;  10  p.m. 
other  seasons). 

Trinity  Church.  Copley  Square.  One  of  the  richest  examples  of  ecclesias- 
tical architecture  in  the  country. 

Harvard  University  Buildings  and  Museums.  Cambridge;  less  than  thirty 
minutes'  ride  by  electric  car  from  the  Subway  or  Copley  Square.  (See  Cambridge 
and  Harvard,  pp.  98-109.) 

Various  parts  of  the  chain  of  parks  comprised  in  the  Boston  City  Parks 
System  and  the  public  reservations  embraced  in  the  Metropolitan  Parks  System 
are  within  easy  reach  by  electric  or  steam  cars  (see  Public  Parks,  pp.  146-151) ; 
and  there  are  pleasant  harbor  excursions  to  be  enjoyed  occupying  only  a  few 
hours  or  part  of  a  day.  (See  Harbor  and  Bay,  under  Excursions  and  Tours, 
p.  171.) 


INDEX 


Abbey,  Edwin  A.,  82. 

Aberdeen  District,  115. 

Adams  Academy,  Quincy,  135. 

Adams,  Charles  Francis,  Sr.,  birthplace, 
34,  48;  town  house,  70. 

Adams,  Charles  Francis,  Jr.,  92;  gift  to 
Quincy  Historical  Society,  136. 

Adams,  Henry,  tomb,  135. 

Adams,  Herbert,  77. 

Adams  House,  Boston,  34. 

Adams,  John,  portrait,  13, 14,  33  ;  statue  of, 
at  Mt.  Auburn,  108;  gifts  to  Quincy, 
135;  birthplace,  136. 

Adams,  John  Quincy,  portrait,  13,  14;  site 
of  mansion  house,  34;  tomb,  135;  birth- 
place, 136. 

Adams  mansion,  Quincy,  136. 

Adams,  Samuel,  portrait,  13,  14;  statue,  in 
Adams  Square,  15,  16;  tomb,  26,  27,  48; 
statue  at  Lexington,  155. 

Adams  Square,  Boston,  modern,  16. 

Adams  Street,  Milton,  131;  Quincy,  136. 

Addington  Road,  Brookline,  114. 

African  church,  first,  Boston,  69. 

Agassiz,  Louis,  monument,  Alt.  Auburn,  108. 

Alcott,  A.  Bronson,  71. 

Alcott,  Louisa  M.,  Boston  homes,  71 ;  Con- 
cord home,  156;  grave,  157. 

Alcott  family,  homes,  156,  157,  158. 

Alden  homestead,  Duxbury,  168. 

Aldrich,  Thomas  Bailey,  Boston  homes,  70, 

71.  73- 

Algerine  Corner,  Milton,  132. 

Algonquin  Clubhouse,  Boston,  80. 

Allston,  Washington,  head  of,  86 ;  home,  99. 

American  Acad,  of  Arts  and  Sciences,  92. 

American  Board  of  Commissioners  for 
Foreign  Missions,  45,  46. 

American  House  (site  of  Warren's  house), 
Boston,  18. 

American  Peace  Society,  30. 

American  Unitarian  Association,  45. 

American  Waltham  Watch  Company,  127. 

Ames,  Fisher,  137. 

Ames,  Nathaniel,  137. 

Ancient  and  Hon.  Artillery  Company,  ori- 
gin, 5;  armory,  13;  annual  evolutions,  33. 

Andrew,  Governor  John  A.,  portrait,  13, 
41,  42 ;  grave  and  statue  at  Hingham,  167. 

Andros,  Lady,  tomb,  23. 

Andros,  Sir  Edmund,  5 ;  subscriber  to 
King's  Chapel,  24,  25 ;  church  organiza- 
tion coerced  by,  52  ;  refuge  of,  53. 

Anthology  Club  (Boston  Athenaeum),  46. 

Appleton  Chapel,  Cambridge,  101. 

Appleton,  Samuel,  101. 

Appleton's  pulpit,  Saugus,  159. 


Apthorp,  Rev.  East,  109. 

Arborway,  146. 

Archbishop's  house,  Boston,  93. 

Aristides,  statue,  70. 

Arlington,  152,  153. 

Arlington  House  (Cooper's  Tavern),  152 

Arlington  Street  Church,  Boston,  77. 

Army  and  Navy  Monument,  Boston,  32. 

Arnold  Arboretum  and  Bussey  Park,  97 

146. 
Arnold  Arboretum  and  Jamaica  Park,  97 
Arsenal,  Watertown,  128. 
Art  Gallery,  Maiden,  145. 
Art  Museum,  Boston,  46,  85,  86. 
Ashburton  Place,  Boston,  47. 
Aspinwall  Hill,  Brookline,  114. 
Athenaeum,  Salem,  162. 
Athletic  Clubhouse,  81. 
Atlantic  Avenue,  Boston,  10,  53. 
Avery  oak,  Dedham,  138. 

Back  Bay,  extent,  74 ;  filling,  75  ;  District, 
plan,  v. 

Back  Bay  Park.     See  Fens. 

Back  Bay  station,  81. 

Baily,  Rev.  John,  26. 

Baker,  William  Emerson,  121. 

Ball,  Thomas,  statues  by:  of  Andraw,  41 ; 
Quincy,  49;  Washington,  77;  Sumner, 
77  ;  birthplace,  68 ;  group  by,  94. 

Ballou  Hall,  Tufts  College,  144. 

Ballou,  Hosea,  mon't,  Mt.  Auburn,  108. 

Bancroft,  George,  11. 

Banks,  Nathaniel  Prentiss,  127. 

Banner,  Peter,  architect,  29. 

Baptist  Church,  present  First,  Boston,  57. 

Baptist  Church,  Cambridge,  99. 

Baptist  Church,  Newton  Center,  125. 

Baptist  meetinghouse,  site  of  first,  56,  57. 

Barnum  Museum,  Tufts  College,  144. 

Barre,  Col.  Isaac,  12. 

Barricado,  site,  10. 

Bartholdi,  architect,  80. 

Bartol,  Cyrus  A.,  home,  72  ;  pulpit,  74. 

Bates,  Joshua,  83. 

Battle  flags,  42. 

Battle  ground,  Concord,  158. 

Battle  of  Lexington,  painting,  155. 

Bay  Psalm-book,  108. 

Bay  State  Road,  92. 

Beach  Bluff,  160. 

Beachmont,  141,  142. 

Beacon,  on  Beacon  Hill,  40,  41. 

Beacon  Hill,  original,  1,  68. 

Beacon  Hill  Reservoir,  69. 

Beacon  Street,  39,  45,  68,  80. 

Beacon  Street  Mall  illustrated,  31. 


177 


178 


INDEX 


Beaver  Brook  and  Waverley  Oaks,  149. 

Beck  Hall,  Cambridge,  99. 

Bedford  Street,  Lexington,  155. 

Beethoven,  statue  of,  82. 

Belcher,  Gov.  Jonathan,  25;  estate,  132. 

Belcher  milestones,  132. 

Belknap,  Rev.  Jeremy,  tomb,  26,  52. 

Belknap  Street  (now  Joy  Street),  69. 

Bell  Alley  (part  of  Prince  Street),  59. 

Bellingham,  Gov.  Richard,  21,  26. 

Belmont  Square,  East  Boston,  94. 

Bennington,  trophies  captured  at,  44. 

Berkeley  Temple,  Boston,  93. 

Bethel,  Father  Taylor's,  59. 

Beverly,  161. 

Billings,  Hammatt,  architect,  122,  168,  169. 

Bishop,  Bridget,  death  warrant,  165. 

Bishop  house,  Salem,  155. 

Bishop's  Palace,  Cambridge,  109. 

Black  Horse  Lane,  57. 

Black  Horse  Tavern,  152. 

Blackstone  Street,  56. 

Blake,  Francis,  estate,  117. 

Blaxton,  Rev.  William,  pioneer,  1,  68- 

Blaxton's  spring,  70.  71. 

Blockade  of  Boston,  the,  farce,  14, 

Blue  Bail,  Sign  of  the,  55. 

Blue  Hill  Parkway,  134. 

Blue  Hills  Reservation,  3,  131,  133,  148. 

Board  of  Trade  Building,  Boston,  11. 

Bolton,  Charles  Knowles,  47. 

Booth,  Edwin,  home  of,  72  ;  grave  of,  108. 

Boston,  founded,  1 ;  incorporated,  2  ;  pop- 
ulation, 3 ;  Postal  District  of,  3 ;  Post 
Office  Department,  3. 

Boston  American  Baseball  Club,  no. 

Boston  Art  Clubhouse,  81. 

Boston  Athenaeum,  46,  47. 

Boston  Athletic  Association,  116. 

Boston  Basin,  3. 

Boston  City  Club,  47. 

Boston  City  Hospital,  93. 

Boston  City  Parks  System,  64,  146-14S. 

Boston  College,  93. 

Boston  Common,  surroundings,  31-34; 
old  print  of,  45  ;  146. 

Boston.,  frigate,  site  of  shipyard,  64. 

Boston  Massacre,  site,  5,  17;  graves  of 
victims,  26,  28,  51. 

Boston  Medical  Library,  91. 

Boston  Museum,  site,  91  ;  picture  of,  21. 

Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  46,  85,  86. 

Boston  pier,  original,  10. 

Boston  Sconce  (South  Battery),  10. 

Boston  Society  of  Natural  History,  89. 

"  Boston  Stone,  1737,"  56. 

Boston  Street,  Salem,  166. 

Boston  Symphony  Orchestra,  30. 

Boston  Tea  Party,  16,  51.  See  also  Tea 
Party  Wharf. 

Boston  Theater,  34. 

Boston  University,  47,  81. 

Bostonian  Society,  9. 

Bosworth  Street,  Boston,  25. 


Bow  Street,  Cambridge,  109. 

Bowditch,  Nathaniel,  108. 

Bowdoin,  Gov.  James,  17;  tomb,  26. 

Bowlder  (Lexington),  155. 

Boylston,  Dr.  Zabdiel,  112. 

Boylston  house,  Brookline,  113. 

Boylston  Street,  Brookline,  in. 

Boylston,  Ward  Nicholas,  103. 

Brackett,  Walter  M.,  9. 

Bradford,  Gov.  William,  site  of  house, 
Plymouth,  169;  monument  to,  170. 

Bradford,  Maj.  John,  house,  Kingston,  168. 

Bradford  Manuscript,  43,  51,  168. 

Bradstreet,  Simon,  162;  grave,  163. 

Braintree,  2. 

Brattle  Square  Church,  79 ;  site,  17 ;  cannon 
ball,  92. 

Brattle  Street,  Boston,  16,  17. 

Brattle  Street,  Cambridge,  107. 

Brattle,  Thomas,  Jr.,  23. 

Brattle,  Thomas,  Sr.,  tomb,  23. 

Brazer's  Building,  5. 

Brazier's  Inn  (later  Hancock  Tavern),  15 

Brazier,  Madam,  15. 

Breed's  Hill,  site  of  Bunker  Hill  Monu- 
ment, 16. 

Breed's  Island,  2,  141, 

Brewster,  Elder,  168. 

Brick  Meetinghouse,  Boston,  6. 

Bridge,  John,  statue  of,  105. 

Bridge,  Rev.  Thomas,  22. 

Brigham,  Charles  E.,  40. 

Brighton  District,  Boston,  3,  97. 

Brimstone  Corner,  29. 

British  Coffee  House,  7. 

Broad  Street,  Salem,  166. 

Broad's  Hill,  Natick,  123. 

Brook  Farm,  97. 

Brooklawr.,  126. 

Brookline,  2,  109-115. 

Brookline  Reservoir,  112. 

Brooks,  Phillips,  48 ;  rector  of  Trinity 
Church,  87;  grave,  108. 

Brooks,  Richard  F.,  77. 

Brunswick  Hotel,  81. 

Bryant,  J.  G.  F.,  40. 

Buckman  Tavern,  Lexington,  155. 

Bulnnch,  Charles,  architect,  23;  designer  of 
"  Bulnnch  Front,"  12,  40,  41,  43,  60,  74, 
103. 

Bulkeley,  Peter,  158. 

Bunch-of-Grapes  Tavern,  6,  7. 

Bunker  Hill,  68. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument,  65 ;  description, 
66-68;  Association,  44,  67. 

Burgoyne.  Gen.  John,  14,  51,  109,  127. 

Burial  Hill,  Plymouth,  169. 

Burlingame,  Anson,  portrait,  13  ;  monu- 
ment, Mt.  Auburn,  108. 

Burnet,  Gov.,  25. 

Burns,  Anthony,  meeting  against  rendition 
of,  15;  riot  over,  19. 

Burying  ground,  Arlington,  153;  Milton, 
132;  Quincy,  135;  Salem  (Broad  Street) 


INDEX 


179 


166,  (Charter  Street)  163;  Watertown, 
129;  ancient  Town,  Brookline,  112;  Ye 
Old,  Lexington,  155. 

Burying  Hill,  Marshfield,  168. 

Business  Quarter,  Boston,  3. 

Bussey  Park,  146. 

Buttrick,  Maj.  John,  memorial,  42;  grave, 

Byles,  Rev.  Mather,  34. 
Bynner,  Edwin  L.,  59. 

Cabot  house,  Salem,  166. 

Cadet  Armory,  Salem,  162. 

Cambridge,  98-109. 

Cambridge  Common,  105. 

Camp  Hill,  East  Boston,  94. 

Caner,  Mr.,  rector  of  King's  Chapel,  24. 

Canoeing,  116. 

Cape  Ann,  3. 

Capen,  E.  H.,  Pres.  Tufts  College,  144. 

Capen,  Hopestill,  56. 

Captain's  Hill,  Duxbury,  168. 

"Careswell,"  Marshfield,  168. 

Carey  Public  Library,  Lexington,  155. 

Cass,  Col.  Thomas,  statue  of,  77. 

Castle  Island,  147. 

Cathedral  of  the  Holy  Cross,  Boston,  93. 

Cattle  Market,  Watertown,  128. 

Central  Burying  Ground,  Boston,  34. 

Central  Church,  Boston,  79. 

Central  District,  Boston,  3,  4. 

Central  Hill,  Somerville,  143. 

Gentry"  Hill,  41. 

Chamber  of  Commerce,  11. 

Chandler's  Pond,  115,  119. 

Change  (formerly  Flagg)  Alley,  15. 

Channing,  William  Ellery,  Boston  pulpit, 

53  ;  home,  70  ;  statue  of,  77  ;  monument, 

Mt.  Auburn,  108. 
Charles  River  banks,  149. 
Charles  River  village,  123. 
Charles  Street,  72,  73. 
Charles  Street  Jail,  73. 
Charlesbank,  73,  148. 
Charlesgate,  92. 
Charlestown,    first    settlement   of,    1,   66; 

annexed  to  Boston,  2,  3,  65-68. 
Charlestown  Bridge,  57. 
Charlestown  ferry,  57. 
Charlestown  Heights,  147. 
Charter  Street,  Boston,  57,  64. 
Charter  Street,  Salem,  163. 
Cheapside  (subsequently  Cornhill),  16. 
Checkley  tomb,  27. 
Chelsea,  2,  142,  143. 
Cheney  estate,  121. 
Cherry  Street,  Cambridgeport,  99. 
Chestnut  Hill  Park,  148. 
Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir,  114. 
Chestnut  Street,  Boston,  72. 
Chestnut  Street,  Salem,  165, 
Cheverus,  John,  15. 
Chickatawbut  Hill,  133, 
Chickering  Hall,  90. 


Child,  Lydia  Maria,  59. 

Child,  Tom,  56. 

Chilton,  Mary,  23. 

Choate,  Rufus,  portrait,  13 ;  statue,  20. 

Christ  Church,  Boston,  59-61. 

Christ  Church,  Cambridge,  106. 

Christ  Church  burial  ground,   Braintree, 

136. 
Church,  Benjamin,  23. 
Church   of    England    established    in   the 

Colony,  24. 
Church  of  the  Advent,  Boston,  73. 
Church  of  Christ,  Scientist,  90. 
Church  of  the  Disciples,  Boston,  111. 
Church  of  the  Immaculate  Conception,  93. 
Churches,  convenient,  in  Boston,  ix,  x. 
City  Hall,  Boston,  3,  48,  49;  Cambridge, 

99;  Newton,  118;  Quincy,  135;  Salem, 

166;  Somerville,  144. 
City  Point,  South  Boston,  95. 
City  Square,  Charlestown,  66. 
Cla'flin  estate,  126. 
Claflin  School,  Newtonville,  126. 
Clarendon  Street  Baptist  Church,  Boston, 

94. 
Clark- Frankland  mansion,  site  of,  59. 
Clark  house,  Brookline,  112. 
Clarke,  James  Freeman,  48;    note  from 

Hawthorne  to,  71,  94. 
Clarke,  Jonas,  Lexington,  155. 
Clifton  Heights,  150. 
Clough,  George  A.,  architect,  20. 
Clyde  Park,  113. 
Cockerel  Church,  Boston,  58. 
Codfish,  the  historic,  9,  43. 
Cohasset,  167. 
Cole's  Hill,  Plymouth,  169. 
College  Hill,  Medford,  144. 
College  of  Pharmacy,  Boston,  89. 
College  Settlement,  Boston,  94. 
Collins  house,  Danvers,  161. 
Colonial  Club,  Cambridge,  100. 
Colonial  prison,  Boston,  19. 
Colonial  Theater,  Boston,  34. 
Columbus  Avenue,  94. 
Columbus  statues :  Louisburg  Square,  70 ; 

Cathedral  grounds,  93. 
Committee  of  Correspondence,  Boston,  14. 
Commonwealth  Avenue,  74;    statues  in, 

78,  79,  146. 
Commonwealth  Avenue  Parkway,  146. 
Concord,  1C6-159;  routes  to,  152;  map  of; 

156. 
Concord  Antiquarian  Society,  156. 
Concord  Reformatory,  159. 
Concord  schools,  159. 
Congregational  House,  45  ;  Pilgrim  Hall 

in,  46. 
Congress  Street.  Boston,  former,  4 ;  pres- 
ent, 46. 
Constihdion,  timber  sought  for,  139. 
Constitution  Wharf,  Boston,  64. 
Continental  forts,  sites  of,  Somerville,  143, 


i8o 


INDEX 


Conway,  Field  Marshal,  12. 

Coolidge,  John,  gift  of  descendants  of,  to 

Watertown,  129. 
Coolidge,  T.  Jefferson,  104. 
Cooper's  Tavern,  site,  152. 
Copley,  John  Singleton,  portraits  by,  13, 

38 ;    site  of  house,   39 ;    estate,   68,   86 ; 

sometime  home  of,  at  Salem,  166. 
Copley  Square,  car  lines  passing  through, 

vi;  surroundings,  80. 
Copley  Square  Hotel,  81. 
Copp,  William  (gave  name  to  Copp's  Hill), 

62,  64. 
Copp's  Hill,  59-65. 
Copp's  Hill  Burying  Ground,  61-64. 
Copp's  Hill  Terrace,  64,  147. 
Corey,  Giles,  "witchcraft"  victim,  Salem, 

164. 
Corey  Hill,  Brookline,  114. 
Corinthian  Yacht  Clubhouse,  160. 
Corn  Court,  15. 
Cornhill,  16. 
Corwin,  George,  sheriff,   162 ;    witchcraft 

memorials  of,  Salem,  165  ;  grave,  166. 
Corwin,  Judge  Jonathan,  165. 
Cottage  Hill,  Winthrop,  139. 
Cotton  Hill,  Boston,  site,  20. 
Cotton,  Rev.  John,  preacher,   5 ;    estate, 

20;  tomb,  22  ;  original  farm,  114. 
Country  Club,  Brookline,  113. 
County  Jail,  Boston,  73  ;  Salem,  160. 
Court  House  of  1692,  Salem,  165. 
Court  House,  present,  Boston,  20;    Ded- 

ham,  138 ;  Plymouth,  169 ;  Salem,  160. 
Court  Park,  Winthrop,  140. 
Court  Street,  16,  19. 

Cow  (or  Horse)  Pond,  Boston  Common, 33. 
Craddock  house,  Medford,  145. 
Cradle  of  American  Liberty,  14. 
Cranch,  Richard,  166. 
Crane  Public  Library,  Quincy,  135. 
Crawford,  Thomas,    statues    by,   of   Bee- 
thoven, 82  ;  James  Otis,  108;  head  of,  86. 
Creek  Lane,  56. 
Crescent  Beach,  141. 
Crispus  Attucks  Monument,  33. 
Crystal  Lake,  Newton,  126. 
Cummings  &  Sears,  architects,  88. 
Cushing,  Lieut.  Gov.  Thomas,  tomb  of,  26. 
Cushman,  Charlotte,  25 ;    birthplace,  58  ; 

monument,  Mt.  Auburn,  108. 
Cushmans,  graves  of  the,  Plymouth,  170. 
Cushman  School,  Boston,  58. 
Custom  House,  Boston,   n  ;    Salem,  160, 

163. 

Daille,  Rev.  Pierre,  26. 

Dana  Hall  School,  Wellesley,  120. 

Dana,  Richard  H.,  Sr.,  72. 

Dana,  Richard  H.,  Jr.,  107. 

Danvers,  161. 

Dasset  Alley  (now  Franklin  Avenue),  17. 

Davenport,  Rev.  John,  tomb  of,  22. 

Davis,  Capt.  Isaac,  42. 


Davis  Square,  West  Somerville,  144. 

Dawes,  Col.  Thomas,  monument  to,  22. 

Daye,  Stephen,  first  printer,  108. 

Dedham,  137-139. 

Dedham  Historical  Society,  137-139. 

Deland,  Margaret,  homes  of,  70,  72. 

Denison  House,  Boston,  94. 

Derby  Street,  Salem,  163. 

Deshon,  Moses,  artisan,  9,  14. 

D'Estaing,  allusion  to,  56. 

Devens,  Maj.  Gen.  Charles,  statue  of,  44. 

Dexter,  Mrs.  Wirt,  gate  given  to  Harvard 

by,  100. 
Dickens,  Charles,  in  Boston,  25. 
Diocesan  House,  69. 
Dock  Square,  4,  16. 
Dorchester  District,  1,  3,  97. 
Dorchester  Heights,  95. 
Dorchester  Neck,  2. 
Dorchester  Park,  147. 
Dorchesterway,  147. 
Doublet  Hill, 'Weston,  117. 
Downing-Bradstreet  house,  Salem,  162. 
Dowse  Library,  91. 
Drowne,  "Deacon"  Shem,  artificer,    13; 

52,  58;  grave  of,  62. 
Dudley,  Gov.  Joseph,  25  ;  milestones  set 

up  by,  106. 
Dudley,  Thomas,  108. 
Dudleys,  tomb  of  the,  96. 
Duel,  first  fought  in  Boston,  7. 
Dummer,  Gov.  William,  26. 
Dunster,  Henry,  6. 
Dunster  Street,  Cambridge,  108. 
Durant,  Henry  F.,  Wellesley  College,  122 
Durant,  Pauline  A.  F.,  122. 
Duxbury,  168. 

East  Boston,  2,  3,  94  ;  tunnel  to,  10. 

Eastern  Yacht  Clubhouse,  160. 

East  India  Marine  Building,  Salem,  162. 

East  Lexington,  153. 

East  Street,  Dedham,  138. 

Echo  Bridge,  124,  149. 

Edward  Everett  Square,  Dorchester,  75. 

Egg  Rock,  off  Nahant,  159. 

Elevated  Road,  time  tables  furnished  by, 

vii;  lessee  of  Subway,  36;  map  of,  37. 
Eliot,  Andrew,  minister  of  the  New  North 

Church,  59,  60. 
Eliot,  President  Chas.  W.,  inscriptions  on 

monuments  by,  24,  32,  37;  pupil  of  Latin 

School,  48;  residence,  100. 
Eliot,  John,  son  of  Andrew,  minister,  60. 
Eliot,    John,   the   "  apostle,"    5 ;    site    of 

church  of,  Roxbury,  95  ;  tomb,  96. 
Eliot  Church,  South  Natick,  123. 
Eliot    Monument,    Newton,    118  ;    South 

Natick,  123. 
Eliot  Oak,  South  Natick,  123. 
Eliot  School,  North  End,  57. 
Elliott,  John,  83. 

Elmwood  Avenue,  Cambridge,  107. 
Emancipation  Group,  Park  Square,  94. 


INDEX 


181 


Emerson,  Dr.  Edward  W-,  159. 

Emerson,  Ellen,  156. 

Emerson,  Ralph  Waldo,  pupil  of  Latin 
School,  48;  51;  minister  Second  Church, 
Boston,  58,  88,  100;  home  of,  Concord, 
156;  in  Old  Manse,  157;  grave,  157. 

Emerson,  Rev.  William,  46,  79. 

Emerson  house,  Concord,  156. 

Emmanuel  Church,  78. 

Endicott,  Gov.  John,  1;  site  of  house, 
Boston,  20;  site  of  house,  Salem,  166; 
portraits,  166. 

Endicott,  William  C,  165. 

English  High  School,  Boston,  93  ;  Cam- 
bridge, 99;  Somerville,  144. 

Episcopal  Church  Association,  69. 

Episcopal  church,  second,  established,  60. 

Episcopal  Theological  School,  107. 

Ericson,  Leif ,  statue,  79  ;  supposed  site  of 
house,  107,  108. 

Essex  Institute,  Salem,  161,  162. 

Essex  Street,  Salem,  162,  165. 

Ether  Monument,  74,  76. 

Eustis,  Gov.  William,  155. 

Everett,  Edward,  portrait,  13;  statue,  41, 
45)  48,  76,  107 ;  grave  of,  Mt.  Auburn, 
108. 

Evergreen  Cemetery,  Brookline,  115. 

Everett,  Edward,  Square,  75. 

Exchange  Building,  11. 

Exchange  Street,  former,  4. 

Excursions  and  tours,  171-174. 

Exeter  Street,  89. 

Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary,  73. 

Fairbanks  house,  Dedham,  138. 

Faneuil,  Peter,  8,  12,  14;   successors,  14; 

mansion,  21  ;  tomb,  26. 
Faneuil  Hall,  location,  4,  n  ;  description, 

12,13;   the  second,  14;   lottery  for,  14; 

surroundings,  15. 
Faneuil  Hall  Market,  16. 
Faneuil  Hall  Square,  15  ;  west  side,  16. 
Farnsworth,   Isaac  D.,  gift  to  Wellesley 

College,  122. 
Farragut,  Admiral,  statue  of,  95. 
Fay  House,  Cambridge,  106. 
Federal  Building,  52,  53. 
Federal  Street,  53. 
Federal  Street,  Salem,  161,  164. 
Federal  Street  Church,  53. 
Federal  Street  Theater,  53. 
Fellsmere,  145. 
Fellsway,  141. 

Felton,  President,  sometime  home  of,  100. 
Fens,  91,  92,  no,  146. 
Fields,  James  T.,  "  Curtained  Corner  "  of, 

49;  home  of,  73. 
Fields,  Mrs.  Annie,  73. 
First   Baptist    Church   (present),    17,    79 ; 

first  meetinghouse,  site  of,  56. 
First  Meetinghouse,  Salem,  162. 
First  Parish  Church,  Brookline,  112. 
First  Parish  Church,  Quincy,  135. 


First  Parish  meetinghouse,  Watertown, 
129. 

First  Religious  Society  in  Roxbury,  95. 

First  (afterward  North)  Street,  57. 

Flagg  (afterward  Change)  Alley,  15. 

Fogg  Art  Museum,  Harvard  Univ.,  101. 

Follen  Church,  East  Lexington,  153. 

"  Foot  of  the  Rocks,"  Arlington,  153. 

Forbes  family  estates,  Milton,  132. 

Ford  Building,  47. 

Forest  Hills  Cemetery,  97. 

Fort  Banks,  Winthrop,  140. 

Fort  Heath,  Winthrop,  140. 

Fort  Hill  Square,  53. 

Fort  Independence,  147. 

Fort  Sewall,  Marblehead,  160. 

Forts  :  Boston,  147  ;  Revolutionary,  Rox- 
bury,  95  ;  Marblehead,  160;  first,  at  Ply- 
mouth, 170;  Winthrop,  140. 

Foster,  John,  64,  77. 

Foster  Lane,  64. 

Fowle,  Marshall,  128. 

Frankland,  Sir  Harry,  59. 

Franklin,  Benjamin,  printing  office,  work 
place  of,  17 ;  mon't  to  parents  of,  27  ;  at 
Latin  School,  48  ;  statue,  48;  birthplace, 
52  ;  place  of  baptism,  52  ;  boyhood  home, 
55 ;  origin  of  ballad  by,  63 ;  gift  of,  to 
Harvard,  104. 

Franklin,  James,  brother  of  Benjamin,  17. 

Franklin,  Josiah,  dwelling  and  shop,  55  ; 
tomb  of  Franklin  and  his  wife,  26  ;  mon- 
ument, 28. 

Franklin  Avenue,  16,  17. 

Franklin  Field,  147. 

Franklin  Park,  96,  147. 

Free  Masons'  hall,  first,  55. 

Freeman,  Rev.  James,  King's  Chapel,  24. 

French,  Daniel  C,  statues  by :  Rufus 
Choate,  20;  Gov.  Wolcott,  43;  Maj. 
Gen.  Hooker,  44  ;  John  Harvard,  104 ; 
the  Minuteman,  82,  97,  158. 

French's  redoubt,  143. 

Frog  Pond,  Boston  Common,  32,  33. 

Frothingham,  Richard,  61. 

Fuller,  Margaret,  birthplace,  99;  monu- 
ment, Mt.  Auburn,  108. 

Gage,  Gen.  Thomas,  6t,  104;  headquarters, 
Danvers,  161. 

Gallop,  Capt.  John,  62. 

Gallop's  Island,  62. 

Galloupe  house,  62. 

Gallows  Hill,  Salem,  160,  166. 

Gardner,  Mrs.  John  L.,  art  museum,  in, 
112. 

Gardner  Circle,  Brookline,  114. 

Gardner  family  tomb,  Brookline,  112. 

Garnsey,  Elmer  E.,  83. 

Garrison,  Wm.  Lloyd,  first  public  anti- 
slavery  address,  29;  first  office  of  the 
Liberator,  53  ;  mobbing  of,  53  ;  statue, 
78;  home,  96  ;  tomb,  97. 

General  Theological  Library,  69. 


182 


INDEX 


Gerrish's,  Col.,  regiment  (Revolution),  142. 

Gerry,  Elbridge,  at  Black  Horse  Tav- 
ern, 152. 

Gilbert,  John,  tomb,  97. 

Gilman,  Rev.  Samuel,  author  of  "Fair 
Harvard,"  106. 

Ginn  &  Company,  publishing  house,  37, 
38,  47 ;  Athenaeum  Press,  98. 

Girls'  High  School,  93. 

Gloucester,  161,  171. 

Glover,  Gen.  John,  statue  of,  78. 

Goddard  Chapel,  Tufts  College,  144. 

Goddard  Gymnasium,  Tufts  College,  144. 

Goddard  house,  Brookline,  113. 

Goffe,  regicide,  109. 

Goodell,  Abner  C,  Salem,  164. 

Goose,  Mary,  29. 

Gore,  Gov.  Christopher,  tomb,  26;  gift  of 
Gore  Hall,  Harvard,  100;  house,  12S. 

Gould,  Helen  M.,  gift  to  Wellesley  Col- 
lege, 122. 

Gould,  Marshall  S.  and  Thomas  R.,  statue 
of  Bridge  by,  105. 

Gould,  Thomas  R.,  statues  by:  Hancock 
(Lexington),  155;  Andrew,  167;  (with 
Marshall  S.  Gould),  Bridge  (Cambridge), 
105. 

Governor  Gore  house,  Waltham,  128. 

Governor  Hutchinson  Field,  Milton,  151. 

Governor's  Alley  (Province  Street),  52. 

Grammar  school,  Boston,  first,  60. 

Granary,  the  town,  30. 
,  Granary  Burying  Ground,  site,  8,  25,  26. 

Grand  Lodge  of  Mass.,  35;  of  the  Prov- 
ince, first,  55. 

Granite  Temple,  Quincy,  135. 

Gray,  Francis  C.,  gift  of  Gray's  Hall  to 
Harvard,  103. 

Gray,  Judge  Horace,  house  of,  70. 

Great  Blue  Hill  Observatory,  133. 

Great  Cove,  4,  10. 

Great  Elm,  Boston  Common,  32. 

Great  Fire  of  1711,  6,  8;  of  1760,  7;  of 
1872,  53,  87. 

Great  Head,  Winthrop,  140. 

"  Great  House"  of  the  governor,  Charles- 
town,  66. 

Greater  Boston,  3. 

Green,  Dr.  Samuel  A.,  92. 

Green  Dragon  Tavern,  site,  55. 

Green  Lane  (now  Salem  Street),  56. 

Greenough,  Richard,  statue  of  Franklin 
by,  48 ;  statue  of  Winthrop  by,  108 ; 
Bunker  Hill  Monument  devised  by,  67. 

Greenwood,  Francis  W.  P.,  grave  of,- 62. 

Griffin's  Wharf,  scene  of  Boston  Tea 
Party,  s4. 

Griffith,  Vincent  C,  77. 

Grover's  Cliff,  Winthrop,  140. 

Hale,  Edward  Everett,  birthplace,  25 ; 
homes,  47,  96 ;  at  Latin  School,  48  ;  pul- 
pit, 89. 

Hale,  Nathan,  47. 


Hamilton,  Alexander,  statue  of,  78. 

Hamilton  Place,  30. 

Hancock,  Ebenezer,  56. 

Hancock,  Lydia,  39. 

Hancock,  Rev.  John,  grandfather  of  Gov. 
Hancock,  tomb  in  Lexington,  155. 

Hancock,  Rev.  John,  2d  (father  of  Gov. 
Hancock),  grave  in  Quincy,  135. 

Hancock,  Gov.  John,  13;  store,  15,  17; 
tomb,  26,  27,  28;  monument,  27,  28; 
mansion,  37-39,  47  ;  at  Latin  School,  48; 
supposed  house  of,  at  Point  Shirley,  139  ; 
at  Lexington,  155  ;  statue,  155. 

Hancock,  Thomas,  39. 

Hancock  Avenue,  37. 

Hancock-Clarke  house,  Lexington,  155. 

Hancock  estate,  40. 

Hancock  Hill,  Milton,  133. 

Hancock  house,  37-39,  47. 

Hancock  monument,  27,  28. 

Hancock  Row,  Boston,  56. 

Hancock  Street,  Boston,  69  ;  Quincy,  136  ; 
Lexington,  155. 

Hancock  Tavern,  15. 

Hancock's  Wharf,  65. 

Handel  and  Haydn  Society,  90. 

Harrington,  Jonathan,  Sr.,  East  Lexing- 
ton, 153. 

Harrington,  Jonathan,  fifer  to  the  minute- 
men,  Lexington,  153. 

Harrington,  Jonathan,  a  minuteman  killed 
at  Lexington,  155. 

Harrington  houses,  East  Lexington,  153 ; 
Lexington,  155. 

Harrison,  Peter,  architect,  23,  106. 

Hart's  Hill,  Wakefield,  150. 

Hartt,  Edmund,  grave  of,  62,  64. 

Harvard,  John,  monument,  66;  site  of 
dwelling  of,  66 ;  supposed  place  of  grave, 
66;  statue,  104. 

Harvard  Bridge,  109. 

Harvard  Cooperative  Association,  103. 

Harvard  Dental  School,  74. 

Harvard  Library,  100. 

Harvard  Medical  School,  74,  81,  in. 

Harvard  Musical  Association,  30,  72. 

Harvard  Observatory,  100,  108. 

Flarvard  Union,  100. 

Harvard  University,  99-108 ;  gates,  100,101 ; 
library,  100  ;  Sever  Hall,  101  ;  Appleton 
Chapel,  101  ;  Fogg  Art  Museum,  101  ; 
Phillips  Brooks  House,  101 ;  dormitories, 
101-103  ;  Hemenway  Gymnasium,  103; 
Lawrence  Scientific  School,  103 ;  Labora- 
tory, 104;  Memorial  Hall,  104;  Robinson 
Hall,  104  ;  old  gymnasium,  104  ;  Miner- 
alogical  Museum,  104  ;  Semitic  Museum, 
104  ;  Divinity  Hall,  104  ;  Peabody  Mu- 
seum, 104 ;  University  Museum,  104 ; 
Botanical  Museum,  104 ;  Museum  of 
Comparative  Zoology,  104 ;  Geological 
Museum,  104 ;  Law  School,  104 ;  Rad- 
cliffe  College,  106  ;  Soldier's  Field,  107  ; 
Observatory,  108  ;  Botanic  Garden,  108. 


INDEX 


'S3 


Hathorne,    Judge,     of    the    "  witchcraft 

court,"  Salem,  163. 
Haven,  Judge  Samuel, house, Dedham,  138. 
Hawthorne,  Nathaniel,  customs  officer, 
Boston,  n;  the  prison  in  the  "Scarlet 
Letter,"  19;  scene  of  the  "  Legends  of 
the  Province  House,"  52 ;  birthplace, 
Salem,  61 ;  note  from,  to  J.  F.  Clarke, 
71 ;  later  homes  in  Salem,  163,  164,  165  ; 
mementos  of,  Salem,  163  ;  in  Old 
Manse,  and  the  Wayside,  Concord,  157  ; 
grave, 157. 

Hawthorne's  Walk,  Concord,  157. 

Haymarket  Theater,  site,  34. 

Healy,  G.  P.  A.,  12. 

Hemenway,  Augustus,  gift  of,  to  Harvard, 
103. 

Hemenway,  Mrs.  Mary,  51. 

Hemenway  Street,  91. 

Hemlock  Gorge,  Newton  Upper  Falls, 
124;  Reservation,  149. 

Henchman,  Daniel,  bookshop  of,  5. 

Henry  L.  Pierce  Building,  88. 

Hibbens,  Anne,  32. 

Higginson,  Henry  L.,  patron  of  Boston 
Symphony  Orchestra,  30;  one  of  the 
donors  of  Harvard  Union,  100;  donor 
of  Soldier's  Field  to  Harvard,  107. 

Higginson,  Thomas  W.,  19. 

High  School,  Lexington,  154;  Milton,  133; 
Newtonville,  126;  Salem,  166;  Somer- 
ville,  144;  Wellesley,  120. 

High  Street,  Boston,  the  original,  5  ;  Ded- 
ham, 137,  138. 

Highland  Park,  95. 

Highland  Street,  95. 

Highlandville,  123. 

Hillard,  George  S.,  homes  of,  71. 

Hillside  Burying  Ground,  Concord,  157. 

Hingham,  167,  170. 

Hoar,  E.  R.,  Judge,  157;  birthplace,  158. 

Hoar,  George  F.,  43;  birthplace,  158. 

Hoar,  Leonard,  tomb  of,  135. 

Hoar  family,  monuments,  Concord,  157; 
homes,  Concord,  158. 

Hog  (Breed's)  Island,  2. 

Holbrook  mansion,  Milton,  132. 

Holden,  Madame ,  gift  of ,  to  Harvard,  101. 

Hollis,  Thomas,  gift  of,  to  Harvard,  10 1. 

Hollis  Street  Church,  34;  united  with 
South  Congregational,  89. 

Hollis  Street  Theater,  34. 

Holmes,  Oliver  Wendell,  quoted,  17,  29 ; 
memorial  tablet  in  King's  Chapel,  24; 
homes  of,  25,  38,  47,  51,  73,  80;  me- 
mentos of,  in  Boston  Medical  Library, 
91 ;  birthplace,  105  ;  grave,  108. 

Holmes  Hall,  Boston  Medical  Library,  91. 

Homeopathic  Hospital,  47,  93. 

Hooker,  Maj.  Gen.  Joseph,  statue  of,  44. 

Hooper  house,  Danvers,  161. 

Horse(or  Cow) Pond, Boston  Common,  33. 

Horsford,  Eben  N.,  Norse  memorials  by, 
.108,  117,  126,  129. 


Horticultural  Hall,  90. 

Hotels,  principal,  of  Boston,  viii. 

Houdon,  Jean  Antoine,  sculptor,  61. 

Hough's  Neck,  171. 

Houghton,    Mifflin    &     Co.,     publishing 

house  of,  45. 
House  of  the  Good  Shepherd,  in. 
"  House  of  the  Seven  Gables,"  164. 
Howard  Street,  Salem,  164. 
Howe,  Julia  Ward,  homes  of,  72,  80. 
Howe,    Samuel    G.,    founder  of   Perkins 

Institution  for  the  blind,  95  ;  grave,  108. 
Howells,  William  D.,  71. 
Howland,  John,  grave,  Plymouth,  170. 
Hull,  170. 
Hull,  John,  the  "  mint  master,"  21 ;  tomb, 

27,  61. 
Hull,  Maj.  Gen.  William,  grave,  Newton, 

125;  former  estate,  126. 
Hull  Street,  origin  of  name,  61. 
Hunnewell,  H.  Hollis,  gifts  to  Wellesley, 

120;  estate,  121. 
Huntington  Avenue,  75. 
Huntington  Avenue  station,  81. 
Huntington  Hall,  89. 
Hutchinson,  Anne,  50. 
Hutchinson,  Gov.  Thomas,  birthplace,  58, 

59;  seat  in  Milton,  131. 
Hutchinson  tomb  (Copp's  Hill),  desecra- 
tion of,  63. 

Important  points  of   interest  in    Boston, 

Indian  of  old  Province  House,  92. 
Indian  Bible,  Eliot's,  108. 
Independence  Monument  (first),  41. 
Information  Bureaus  at  railroad  stations, 

vii. 
Ingersoll  family,  home,  Salem,  164. 
Institute  of   Technology,  the  Mass.,  81 ; 

buildings,  88. 
Institution  Hill,  Newton,  125. 
Isabella  Stuart  Gardner,  Museum  of  Arts, 


Jack,  John,  slave,  Concord,  157. 
Jackson,  Brig.  Gen.  Michael,  grave  of,  125. 
Jacob  Sleeper  Hall.     See  Boston  Univer- 
sity. 
Jamaica  Park,  146. 
Jamaica  Plain,  97. 
Jamaicaway,  146. 
Jeffries,  B.  Joy,  72. 
Jeffries  Point,  East  Boston,  139. 
Jerusalem  Road,  Cohasset,  167. 
Jewett,  Sarah  Orne,  home  of,  73. 
Johnson,  Ellen  C,  memorial  to,  91. 
Johnson,  Isaac,  colonist,  1. 
Joy  Street  (formerly  Belknap  Street),  69. 
Judson,  Adoniram,  grave  of,  170. 
Julien,  M.,  grave  of,  34. 

Keayne,  Capt.  Robert,  site  of  house  of,  5 ; 
will,  10. 


184 


INDEX 


Keith's  Th-ater,  34. 
Kemble,  Fanny,  25. 
Keyes,  Judge,  historic  house  of  Concord, 

Kidd,  Capt.,  in  colonial  prison,  19. 

Kidder,  Henry  P.,  estate,  Milton,  132. 

Kilby  Street,  origin  of  name,  7. 

Kimball,  Moses,  94. 

King  (now  State)  Street,  7. 

King,  Thomas  Starr,  34. 

King's  Beach  and  Lynn  Shore  Reservation, 

150,  160. 
King's  Chapel,  description,  23,  24,  25,  48. 
King's  Chapel  Burying  Ground,  21. 
Kingston,  168. 

Kitson,  H.  H.,  sculptor,  95. 
Knox,  Henry,  bookshop  of,  5,  13,  95. 
Kraus,  Robert,  sculptor,  33. 

La  Fargc,  John,  decorations  by,  86. 
Lafayette,  the  Marquis  de,  35,  43,  67;  in 

Salem,  161. 
Lafayette  Mall,  34. 
Lafresn?.ye  Collection,  89. 
Lake,  Capt.  Thomas,  63. 
Lamb  Tavern,  34. 
Lander,  Gen.  F.  W.,  grave  of,  166. 
Langdon,  Samuel,  at  Latin  School,  48. 
Lasell  Seminary,  120. 
Lathrop,  Rev.  John,  minister  of  Old  North 

Church,  grave  of,  26 ;  site  of  dwelling, 

58;  portrait  in  Second  Church,  88. 
Latin  School,  Boston.     See  Public  Latin 

School. 
Latin   School,   Cambridge,  99;    Roxbury, 

96;  Salem,  166. 
Lawrence,  Abbott,  former  residence,  45; 

gift  to  Harvard,  104. 
Lawrence  schoolhouse,  South  Boston,  95. 
Lee,  Gen.  Charles,  headquarters  of,  144. 
Lee,  Henry,  51;  estate,  Brookline,  113. 
Lee,    Col.    Jeremiah,    at     Black     Horse 

Tavern,  152. 
Lee,  Jesse,  grave  of,  62. 
Lee,  Thomns,  gifts  of,  to  city,  76,  78. 
Lefavour,  Henry,  90. 

Leslie,  Lieut.  Col.,  at  Salem  Bridge,  165. 
Leverett,    Gov.    John,   site   of  house,    6; 

tomb,  23. 
Leverett,  John  (president  of  Harvard),  at 

Latin  School,  48. 
Leverett  Park,  146. 
Leverett  Pond,  in. 
Leverett's  Lane,  4. 
Lewis's  Wharf,  64,  65. 
Lexington,  154,  155;  arms  captured  at,  44; 

routes   to,    152;    map,    154;    Lexington 

Green,  154. 
Lexington  Street,  Lexington,  156. 
Leyden  Street,  Plymouth,  170. 
Liberator,  first  offices  of,  53. 
Liberty  Tree,  34. 
Liberty  Tree  Tavern,  Boston,  35. 
Lind,  Jenny,  in  Boston,  71. 


Lodge,  Henry  Cabot,  former  Boston  home, 

70;  at  Nahant,  159. 
Long,  John  D.,  Hingham  home  of,  167. 
"  Long  Path,"  Holmes's,  Boston  Common, 

39- 
Long  Wharf,  10. 

Longfellow,  A.  W.,  architect,  ior. 
Longfellow,  Alden  &  Harlow,  architects, 

99. 
Longfellow,  Alice,  107. 
Longfellow,  H.  W.,  71 ;  house,  Cambridge, 

107 ;  grave,  108. 
Longfellow  house,  Cambridge,  107. 
Loring,  Judge,  Winthrop  estate,  140. 
Louisburg  Square,  70,  71. 
Louis  Philippe  in  Boston,  15. 
Love  Lane  (now  Tileston  Street),  60. 
Lovell,  John,  master  Latin  School,  14. 
Lowell,  Augustus,  estate,  Brookline,  113. 
Lowell,  Rev.  Charles,  pulpit,  74;  grave, 

108. 
Lowell,  James  Russell,  33,  37,  51;  home 

of,  Cambridge,  107 ;  grave,  108. 
Lowell,  Judge  John,  Winthrop  estate,  140. 
Lowell,  John,  Jr.,  founder  of  Lowell  Insti- 
tute, 89. 
Lowell,  Percival,  house  of,  72. 
Lowell  House,  Cambridge,  107. 
Lowell  Institute,  89. 
Lowell  School  of  Practical  Design,  89. 
Lowell  Street,  Concord,  158. 
Lyman,  Arthur  T.,  147. 
Lyman,  Theodore,  estate,  Brookline,  113. 
Lynde,  Benjamin,  1st  and  2d,  graves  of, 

163. 
Lynn,  159. 

Lynn  Shore  Reservation,  150. 
Lynn  Woods,  150. 

Mackerel  Lane  (now  Kilby  Street),  6,  7. 

McKim,  Charles  F.,  architect,  37,  102. 

McKim,  Mead  &  White,  architects,  85, 100. 

MacMonnies,  Frederick,  statue  by,  82. 

Magazine  Street,  Cambridge,  99. 

Main  Guardhouse  (1768-1770),  5. 

Main  Street,  Medford,  145. 

Majestic  Theater,  34. 

Malcom,  Capt.  Daniel,  gravestone  of,  63. 

Mall  Street,  Salem,  164. 

Manchester-by-the-Sea,  161. 

Mann,  Horace,  statue  of,  41. 

Manual  Training  School,  Cambridge,  99. 

Marblehead,  160. 

Marblehead  Neck,  160. 

Marine     Biological     Laboratory,    Woods 

Hole,  173. 
Marine  Hospital,  Chelsea,  143. 
Marine  Park,  South  Boston,  95,  147. 
Market  Street  (afterward  Cornhill),  16. 
Marshall  Fowle  house,  Watertown,  128. 
Marshall's  Lane  (now  Street),  55,  56. 
Marshfield,  168. 
Masconomo    House,    Manchester-by-the- 

Sea,    161. 


INDEX 


85 


Mason,  Dr.  Lowell,  29. 

Masonic  Temple,  35. 

Massachusetts  Association  of  the  New 
Jerusalem  Church,  78. 

Massachusetts  Avenue,  extent  of,  75 ;  in 
Arlington,  152,  153. 

Massachusetts  Charitable  Eye  and  Ear 
Infirmary.     See  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary. 

Massachusetts  Charitable  Mechanic  Asso- 
ciation, 81. 

Massachusetts  College  of  Pharmacy.  See 
College  of  Pharmacy. 

Massachusetts  General  Hospital,  73,  74. 

Massachusetts  Historical  Society,  16,  17; 
founder  of,  26,  52;  building,  91. 

Massachusetts  Homeopathic  Hospital. 
See  Homeopathic  Hospital. 

Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society.  See 
Horticultural  Society. 

Massachusetts  Institute  of  Technology. 
See  Institute  of  Technology. 

Massachusetts  Normal  Art  School.  See 
Normal  Art  School. 

Massachusetts  Spy,  56. 

Massacre  of  1770,  7. 

Mather,  Cotton,  at  Latin  School,  48; 
minister  of  the  Old  North  Church,  58  ; 
tomb,  62,  88. 

Mather,  Increase,  site  of  house,  North 
Square,  57;  Hanover  Street  house,  60; 
tomb,  62,  142. 

Mather,  Mrs.  Increase,  grave  in  Brook- 
line,  112. 

Mather,  Nathaniel,  grave  in  Salem,  163. 

Mather,  Richard,  tomb,  in  Dorchester,  97. 

Mather,  Rev.  Samuel,  house,  59;  tomb,  62. 

Mather-Eliot  house,  60. 

Mathers,  Church  of  the,  58. 

Mattapan,  134. 

Matthews,  Nathan,  gift  of,  to  Harvard,  103. 

Matthews,  Nathan,  Jr.,  36. 

Maugus  Hill,  Wellesley,  120. 

Maverick,  Samuel,  fortified  house  of,  94, 
143- 

Mead,  Edwin  D.,  51. 

Medford,  145. 

Meetinghouse  Hill,  Dorchester,  97. 

Memorial  Fountain  ( Ellen  C .  Johnson),  9 1 . 

Memorial  Hall,  Cambridge,  49  ;  Dedham, 
137;  Lexington,  155. 

Menotomy,  early  name  of  Arlington,  152. 

Merchants'  Exchange,  n. 

Merchants  Row,  7. 

"  Merrymount,"  136. 

Merwin,  Henry  C,  house  of,  72. 

Metropolitan  District,  cities  and  towns  in, 
98. 

Metropolitan  Sewerage  District  Depart- 
ment, 3. 

Metropolitan  System  of  Parks,  3,  148-151. 

Metropolitan  Water  Board,  3,  117. 

Metropolitan  Water  District,  3. 

Meyer,  George  von  L.,  gift  of,  to  Har- 
vard, 101. 


Middlesex  Fells,  145,  149. 

Military  Company  of  Massachusetts, 
first,  5. 

Milk  Street,  52,  53. 

Mill  Bridge,  56. 

Mill  Creek  (now  Blackstone  Street),  56. 

Mill  Pond,  filling,  41,  51,  56. 

Mill  Street,  Salem,  166. 

Milmore,  Martin,  monuments  by :  in  Bos- 
ton, 32;  Charlestown,  65;  Mt.  Auburn, 
108  ;  statues  by :  in  Boston,  78 ;  Lexing- 
ton, 155;  tomb  of,  97. 

Milton,  130-134. 

Milton  Academy,  133. 

Milton  Churches,  133. 

Milton  Lower  Mills,  130. 

Minuteman  statue  :  Lexington,  155;  Con- 
cord, 158. 

Misery  Island,  160. 

Monument  Street,  Concord,  157. 

More,  Richard,  Mayflower  passenger, 
grave  of,  163. 

Morse  Institute  Library,  Natick,  123. 

Morse,  Rev.  Jedidiah,  66. 

Morse,  Samuel  F.  B.,  birthplace  of,  66. 

Morse,  Sidney  H.,  sculptor,  88. 

Morton,  Dr.  W.  T.  G.,  monument  to,  74. 

"  Mother  Brook,"  137. 

Mother  Goose,  29. 

Motley,  John  Lothrop,  house  of,  45  ;  at 
Latin  School,  48;  boyhood  home,  72. 

Moulson,  Lady  Anne,  106. 

Moulton's  Point,  65. 

Mt.  Auburn  Cemetery,  108. 

Mt.  Auburn  Street,  Cambridge,  107. 

Mt.  Vernon  Street,  47,  72. 

Mt.  Wollaston,  136. 

Muddy  River,  92,  109. 

Munroe's  Tavern,  Lexington,  154. 

Murray,  W.  H.  H.,  31. 

Murray's  Barracks,  17. 

Museum  of  Fine  Arts.     See  Art  Museum. 

Museum  School  of  Drawing  and  Painting, 
86. 

Music  Hall,  old,  30. 

Myers,  James  J.,  103. 

Myles,  Rev.  Samuel,  60. 

Mystic  ponds,  145. 

Mystic  River  banks,  149. 

Mystic  Street,  Arlington,  152. 

Nahant,  159. 

Nantasket  Beach  Reservation,  148. 
Napoleon  willow,  64. 
Natick,  123. 

National  Monument,  Plymouth,  168. 
Natural  History  Museum,  81,  89. 
Naval  Hospital,  Chelsea,  143. 
Navy  Yard,  Charlestown,  65. 
Needham,  123. 
Neponset  River,  134. 
Neponset  River  banks,  148. 
New  Brick  (afterward  Cockerel)  Church, 
58. 


S6 


INDEX 


New  Church  Union,  78. 
New  England  Children's  Hospital,  91. 
New  England  Conservatory  of  Music,  go. 
New  England  Historic  Genealogical  Soci- 
ety, 47- 
New  Jerusalem  Church,  headquarters,  78. 
New  Old  South  Church,  87. 
Newman,  Robert,  site  of  home  of,  61. 
Newspaper  Row,  52. 
Newton  Boat  Club,  116. 
Newton  Boulevard,  115,  116. 
Newton  Cemetery,  125. 
Newton  Center  burying  ground,  125. 
Newton  Club,  126. 
Newton  Highlands,  125. 
Newton  Hospital,  120. 
Newton  Lower  Falls,  117,  120. 
Newton  Theological  Institution,  125. 
Newton  Upper  Falls,  124. 
Newtons,  the,  116-119,  124-126. 
Nonantum,  119;  present  village,  126. 
Nook's  Hill,  South  Boston,  95. 
Normal  Art  School,  89. 
Norse  Memorials.     See  Horsford. 
North  Battery  (Battery  Wharf),  10,  64. 
North  Bridge,  Salem,  165. 
North  Cambridge  tablets,  152. 
North  Church.     See  Old  North  Church. 
North  Cove,  41. 

North  End,  3,  4,  54-65;  beach,  147. 
North  End  (afterward  the  Eliot)  School,  57. 
North. Grove  Street,  24. 
North  Shore,  159-166. 
North  Square,  57,  58. 
North  Station,  Boston,  vii. 
North  Street,  57. 
Norumbega  Park,  116. 
Norumbega  Tower,  117. 
Nourse,  Rebecca,  witchcraft  victim,  161. 

Ocean  Spray,  139. 

"  Old  Corner  Bookstore,"  49. 

Old  Court  House,  18,  19,  48. 

Old  Manse,  Concord,  157. 

Old  North  Bridge,  Concord,  157,  158. 

Old  North  Church,  58,  61. 

Old  Powder  House,  Somerville,  144. 

Old  Ship  Church,  Hingham,  167. 

Old  South  Meetinghouse,  50,  51. 

Old  State  House,  4,  5,  8,  9. 

Old  stone  monument,  Lexington,  155. 

Old  Town  Dock,  15. 

"  Oldtown  Folks,"  scene  of  H.  B.  Stowe's, 

123. 
Olmsted,  Frederick  Law,  112. 
Orchard  House,  Concord,  156. 
O'Reilly,  John  Boyle,  monument  to,  92. 
Orient  Heights,  141. 
Orne,  Col.  Azor,  at  Black  Horse  Tavern, 

152. 
Otis,  James,  7;  in  Faneuil  Hall,  14;  tomb 

of,    26,   27 ;     picture    representing,    42 ; 

statue,   108. 
Otis  Street,  Milton,  132, 


Oxenbridge,  Rev.  John,  tomb  of,  22. 
Oxford  Hotel,  81. 

Paine,    Robert  Treat,    13 ;    tomb    of,   26 ; 

at  Latin  School,  48;  portrait,  13. 
"  Palisadoed  "  fort,  first,  Charlestown,  66. 
Parade  Ground,  Boston  Common,  33. 
Parker,    Capt.    John,    of   the    Lexington 

minutemen,  44,  155. 
Parker,   Theodore,    indicted,    19 ;    pulpit, 

31,  44;  statue,  96;  birthplace,  156. 
Parker  House,  25,  48. 
Parkman,  Dr.  George,  74. 
Parkman,  Francis,  houses  of,  72,  78. 
Parkman,  Samuel,  12,  13. 
Park  Street,  44,  45. 
Park  Street  Church,  29,  30. 
Park  Theater,  34. 
Parkways,  151. 
Peabody,  161. 
Peabody,  Rev.  A.  P.,  sometime  home  of, 

100. 
Peabody,  Dr.  Nathaniel,  house  of,  Salem, 

163. 
Peabody,  Oliver  W.,  estate,  Milton,  132. 
Peabody,  Sophia,  71,  163. 
Peabody  Academy  of  Science,  Salem,  161, 

162. 
Peabody  Institute,  Peabody,  161. 
Peabody  Museum,  Harvard,  104. 
Pearl  Street,  46,  53. 
Pelham,  Penelope,  21. 
Pemberton  Square,  20,  21. 
Percy,  Lord,  39,  144 ;  at  Lexington,  154. 
Perkins,  Thomas  Handasyd,  26. 
Perkins  Institution  for  the  Blind,  95. 
Phillips  Brooks,  house  of,  87. 
Phillips  Brooks  House,  Harv.  Univ.,  101. 
Phillips,  Mayor  John,  26. 
Phillips,    Wendell,    13 ;    first    antislavery 

speech  of,    14;    indicted,   19,  27;  birth- 
place, 37,  69  ;  grave,  132. 
Phipps,  Spencer,  15. 
Phipps  Street,  Charlestown,  burying 

ground,  65,  66. 
Phips,  Sir  William,  64. 
Pickering,  John,  Salem,  166. 
Pickering  house,  Salem,  161,  166. 
Pierpont,  Rev.  John,  34. 
Pilgrim  documents,  Plymouth,  169. 
Pilgrim  Hall,  Plymouth,  169. 
Pillar  of  Liberty,  Dedham,  138. 
Pillory,  4. 

Pinckney  Street,  71. 
Pitcairn,  Major,  57,  61,  155,  156. 
"  Pitt's  Head,"  Dedham,  13S. 
Pleasant  Street,  Arlington,  tablet,  153. 
Plummer  Hall,  Salem,  162. 
Plymouth,  167,  168-170. 
Point  of  Pines,  141. 
Point  Shirley,  139. 
Pormont,  Philemon,  48. 
Post  Office,  52. 
Post  Office  Square,  53. 


INDEX 


187 


Powderhorn  Hill,  Chelsea,  142. 

Powers,  Hiram,  statue  by,  41,  86. 

Pratt  mansion,  Chelsea,  relic,  142. 

Prescott,  Col.  William,  statue  of,  66. 

Prescott,  William  H.,  tomb  of,  35  ;  house, 
40;  birthplace,  162;  the  "crossed 
swords,"  92. 

Prince,  Rev.  Thomas,  tomb,  26;  library 
of,  51. 

Prince  Street  (formerly  Black  Horse 
Lane),  57. 

Prison  Lane  (afterward  Court  Street),  19. 

Prospect  Hill,  Somerville,  143  ;  Waltham, 
118,  126. 

Proviuce  Court,  52. 

Province  House,  52,  72. 

Province  Street  (Governor's  Alley),  52. 

Public  Garden,  statues  and  monuments, 
76,  77,  146. 

Public  Latin  School,  various  sites,  48; 
distinguished  pupils  of,  48593. 

Public  Library,  Boston,  first  provision  for, 
10;  site  of  first,  34;  present,  82-85. 

Public  Libraries:  Arlington  (Robbins 
Memorial),  153;  Brookline,  114;  Cam- 
bridge, 99;  Lexington  (Carey),  155; 
Concord,  158;  Maiden  (Converse  Me- 
morial), 145  ;  Milton,  133  ;  Quincy,  135  ; 
Salem,  166 ;  Somerville,  144 ;  Water- 
town,  128;  Wellesley,  120. 

Public  parks,  146-151. 

Pudding  Lane  (now  Devonshire  Street),  5. 

Puling,  John,  61. 

Pullen  Poynt,  139. 

Punch-Bowl  Tavern,  111. 

Putnam,  Gen.  Israel,  headquarters,  Cam- 
bridge, 99  ;  Somerville,  143  ;  birthplace 
of,  161. 

Putnam,  Gen.  Rufus,  7. 

Puvis  de  Chavannes,  decorations  by,  82. 

Quaker  meetinghouse,  17. 

Quakers, incarceration  of,  19;  execution, 32. 

Queen  Street  (afterward  Court  St.),  16,  19. 

Quincy,  2,  134-136. 

Quincy,  Dorothy,  135,  136. 

Quincy,  Edmond,  tomb  of,  135;  dwelling, 

136. 
Quincy,  Josiah  (first  mayor  of  Quincy),  11 ; 

house  of,  45  ;  statues  of,  49. 
Quincy,  Josiah,  Jr.  (d.  1775),  135- 
Quincy  Historical  Society,  136. 
Quincy  House,  17. 
Quincy  mansion  house,  Quincy,  136. 
Quincy  Market  House,  11. 
Quincy  shore,  148. 
Quincy  Street,  Cambridge,  100. 

Radcliffe  College,  106. 
Radical  Club,  72. 
Randolph,  2. 
Randolph,  Edward,  24. 
Ratcliffe,  Rev.  Robert,  in  Colonial  prison, 
19;  rector  of  King's  Chapel,  24. 


Rawson,  Edward,  26. 

Read,  Benjamin  T.,  gift  to  city  by,  78. 

Read,  Nathan,  Salem,  162. 

Red  Lion  Inn,  site  of,  58. 

Reed,  Capt.  James,  155. 

Reformatory,  Concord,  159. 

Reid,  Robert,  painter,  42. 

Reservoir  Park,  115. 

Revere,  2,  141,  142. 

Revere,  Paul,  tomb  of,  26,  55;  North 
Square  house,  57,  58 ;  tablet  in  Christ 
Church,  60  ;  site  of  last  home,  64 ;  foun- 
dry, 64,  131  ;  at  Lexington,  155. 

Revere  Beach,  141  ;  Reservation,  150. 

Revere  House,  98. 

Revolutionary  soldiers'  graves,  Newton, 
120. 

Rhodes,  James  Ford,  home  of,  80. 

Richardson,  H.  H.,  architect,  86,  101,  104, 
i45- 

Ridge  Hill  Farm,  121. 

Rimmer,  Dr.  William,  statue  by,  78. 

Rindge,  Frederick  H.,  gifts  of,  to  Cam- 
bridge, 99. 

Rising  Sun  Tavern,  131. 

Riverside,  116. 

Riverside  Avenue,  Medford,  145. 

Riverside  Recreation  Ground,  116. 

Riverway,  146. 

Robbins  Memorial  Library,  Arlington,  153. 

Rockport,  161. 

Rogers,  Randall,  statue  by,  108. 

Rogers,  William  B.,  88. 

Rogers  Building,  Inst,  of  Tech.,  88,  89. 

Rogers  Building,  Washington  Street,  5. 

Rogers  Park,  148. 

Ropes,  John  C,  house  of,  72. 

Rotch  and  Tilden,  architects,  99. 

Rowe's  Wharf,  139. 

Roxbury  District,  1,  2,  3,  95,  96. 

Roxbury  Latin  School,  96. 

Royal  Customhouse,  site  of,  7. 

Royal  Exchange  Lane  (now  Exchange 
Street),  4. 

Royal  Exchange  Tavern,  site  of,  7. 

Royall  mansion  house,  Medford,  145. 

Ruck  house,  Salem,  166. 

Rumford,  Count  (Benjamin  Thompson), 
56- 

Rumney  Marsh,  139. 

Russell,  Jason,  house  of,  Arlington,  153. 

Russell  estate,  Milton,  131. 

St.  Andrews  Lodge,  55. 

St.  Botolph  Church,  Boston,  Eng.,  gift  to 

Trinity  Church,  86. 
St.  Botolph  Clubhouse,  78. 
St.  Botolph  Street,  89. 
St.  Gaudens,  Augustus,  sculpture  by,  37, 

82. 
St.  Gaudens,  Louis,  sculpture  by,  82. 
St.  John  Theological  Seminary  of,  115. 
St.  Margaret's  Hospital,  71. 
St.  Paul's  Church,  35, 


INDEX 


Salem,  i  ;  points  of  interest,  160,  161  ; 
itinerary,  162-166. 

Salem  Street,  56. 

Sanborn,  Frank  B.,  house  of,  Concord,  158. 

Sandham,  Henry,  painting  by,  155. 

Sargent,  Charles  S.,  estate,  Brookline,  112. 

Sargent,  John  S.,  paintings  by,  82. 

Sargent,  Mrs.  John  T.,  museum  of,  72. 

Saugus,  159. 

Savage,  Maj.  Thomas,  tomb  of,  23. 

Schlesinger  estate,  Brookline,  113. 

School  of  Philosophy,  Concord,  156. 

School  Street,  48. 

Scituate,  167. 

Scollay  Square,  vii. 

Second  Church,  Copley  Square,  58,  88. 

Second  Parish  Church,  Dorchester,  130. 

Second  Regiment,  M.V.M.,  82. 

Second  Universalist  Church,  94. 

Senate,  the  Little,  14. 

Sergeant,  Peter,  52. 

Sever,  Mrs.  Anne  E.  P.,  gift  of,  to  Har- 
vard, 10 1. 

Sewall,  Chief  Justice  Samuel,  diarist,  21; 
tomb  of,  26;  "confession  of  contrition," 
52,  56,  61. 

Shadrach,  slave,  19. 

Shaler,  Professor,  house  of,  100. 

Shattuck,  Samuel,  and  "The  King's  Mis- 
sive," 20. 

Shaw,  Judge  Lemuel,  house  of,  69. 

Shaw,  Maj.  Samuel,  monument  to,  63. 

Shaw  estate,  Wellesley,  121. 

Shaw  Memorial,  37. 

Shawmutt,  meaning  of,  1. 

Sheaf e,  Jacob,  tomb  of,  23. 

Shepard  Memorial  Church,  Cambridge,  58. 

Shirley,  Gov.  William,  25. 

Shopping  district,  35. 

Shrimpton's  Lane,  4. 

Shute,  Gov.  Samuel,  25. 

Silver  Lake,  Nonantum,  126. 

Simmons,  Edward,  paintings  by,  42. 

Simmons  Fema'e  College,  89,  111. 

Simmons,  John,  founder  Simmons  Female 
College,  90. 

Sims,  Thomas,  slave,  19. 

Sleepy  Hollow  Cemetery,  Concord,  157. 

Smibert,  John,  13 ;  portraits  by,  38. 

Smith  Court,  antislavery  landmark  in,  69. 

Smith,  Rev.  Samuel  F.,  author  of  "Amer- 
ica," 29;  birthplace,  61. 

Soldiers'  Home,  Chelsea,  142. 

Soldiers'  Monuments :  Boston  Common, 
32,  65;  Charlestown,  65;  Chelsea,  143; 
Concord,  157;  Natick,  123;  Waltham, 
127;  Watertown,  128. 

Somerset  Club,  39. 

Somerset  Hotel,  92. 

Somerset  Street,  47. 

Somerville,  143,  144. 

Sons  of  Liberty,  5,  34. 

South  Avenue,  Weston,  117. 

South  Battery  (Rowe's  Wharf),  10. 


South  Boston,  2,  95. 

South  Congregational  Church,  89. 

South  End,  92. 

South  Shore,  167-170. 

South  Station,  Boston,  vii. 

Sparks,  Jared,  107. 

Spiritual  Temple,  89. 

Spring  Hill,  Somerville,  144. 

Spring  Street,  Lexington,  156. 

Spy  Pond,  153. 

Stamp  Act,  excitement  over,  5,  14,  34,  58. 

Standish,  Miles,  cottage  and  grave,  168; 

sword,  169. 
Standish  Monument,  Duxbury,  168. 
Stark,  Brig.  Gen.  John,  gifts  to  State,  44, 

145- 
State  House,  40-44  ;  Annex,  39,  68. 
State  Library,  43. 
State  Street,  4,  5,  7. 
Stebbins,  Emma,  statue  by,  41. 
Stimson,  Frederick  J.,  house  of,  Dedham, 

i37- 
Stoddard  house,  site  of,  57. 
Stone,  Dr.  A.  L.,  30. 
Stone,    Mrs.    Valeria,    gift    to   Wellesley 

College,  122. 
Stony  Brook,  118  ;  Reservation,  97,  149. 
Storer  collection  of  medical  medals,  91. 
Story,  Judge  Joseph,  statue  of,  108  ;  home 

of,  Salem,  164. 
Story,   William  W.,   statues   by,    66,    76, 

108,  149;  birthplace,   164. 
Stoughton,  Lieut.  Gov.  William,  tomb  of, 

Strandway,  147. 

Strong,  Gov.  Caleb,  13. 

Strong's  Pond,  115,  119. 

Stuart,  Gilbert,  portraits  by,  13,  46;  grave, 

34,  166. 
Stuart,  Jane,  copy  of  Washington  portrait 

by,  166. 
Sturgis  &  Cabot,  architects,  85. 
Subway,  31 ;  Park  Street  station,  35  ;  map 

of  route,  36. 
"  Suffolk  Resolves  "  house,  Milton,  130. 
Sullivan,  Gov.  James,  tomb  of,  26. 
Sumner,  Charles,  first  antislavery  speech 

of,  14,  30,  41 ;  home  of,  69  ;  statues,  77, 

105  ;  grave  of,  108. 
Sumner,  Gov.  Increase,  tomb  of,  26. 
Swinnerton,  Dr.  John,  grave  of,   Salem, 

163. 
Symphony  Hall,  90;  illustration,  gr. 

Taft's  Hotel,  Point  Shirley,  139. 
Takawambait,  Daniel,  123. 
Talleyrand  in  Boston,  15. 
Taylor,  Rev.  Edward  T.,  59. 
Tea  Party  Wharf,  53,  54. 
Technology  Clubhouse,  89. 
Telegraph  Hill,  South  Boston,  95. 
Ten  Hills  Farm,  Winthrop's,  145. 
Thacher,  Rear  Admiral,  tomb  of,  97. 
Thacher,  Rev.  Peter,  of  Milton,  132,  134. 


INDEX 


189 


Thacher,  Rev.  Peter,  oration  of,  1776,  129 ; 

inscription  to,  132. 
Thacher,  Rev.  Thomas,  tomb  of,  23. 
Thatcher's  Island,  161. 
Thayer,  John  E.,  70. 

Thayer,  Nathaniel,  70;  gift  to  Harvard,  103. 
Theaters  in  Boston,  viii,  34. 
Theodore  Parker  Church,  Wert  Roxbury, 

96. 
Thompson,    Benjamin.       See     Rumford, 

Count. 
Thoreau,  Henry  D.,  grave  at  Concord,  157; 

house,  158;  site  of  hut  at  Walden,  158. 
Ticknor,  George,  house  of,  44. 
1  Ticknor  &  Fields,  49. 
Tileston,  John,  early  schoolmaster,  57. 
Tory  Row,  Cambridge,  107. 
Touraine,  Hotel,  34. 
Town  Dock,  4,  16. 
Town  Halls:  Brookline,  114;  Lexington, 

155,  156;  Wellesley,  120,  121. 
Town  Hill,  Charlestown,  66. 
Town  House,  Boston,  first,  8,  10;  second, 

8 ;    meeting    place    of    first    Episcopal 

church,  24;  Milton,  133  ;  Salem,  162. 
Train,  Enoch,  70. 
Transcendental  Club,  72. 
Tremont  Row,  20. 
Tremont  Street,  20;  mall,  34. 
Tremont  Temple,  25. 
Tremont  Theater,  34. 
Trimountane,  1. 
Trinity  Church,  86. 
Trinity  Place  station,  81. 
Trowbridge,  John  T.,  home  of,  Arlington, 

J53. 
Tufts  College  Medical  and  Dental  School 

in  Boston,  91 ;  buildings  on  College  Hill, 

144,  145- 
Turner  Street,  Salem,  164. 
Twentieth  Century  Building,  90. 
Twentieth  Century  Club,  69. 
Twentieth  Regiment,  M.V.M.,  82. 
Twin  churches,  Milton,  133. 

Union  Club,  45. 

Union  Market  station,  128. 

Union  Stone,  site,  56. 

Union  Street,  55. 

Union  Street,  Salem,  161,  163. 

Unitarian  Building,  45. 

Unitarian  Church,  Concord,  156  ;  Lexing- 
ton, 155. 

United  States  Arsenal,  Watertown.  See 
Arsenal,  Watertown. 

United  States  Naval  Hospital.  See  Naval 
Hospital. 

United  States  Navy  Yard.  See  Navy 
Yard,  Charlestown. 

University  Clubhouse,  80. 

Upham's  Corner  burying  ground,  Dor- 
chester, 97. 

Upsall,  Nicholas,  Red  Lion  Inn,  58; 
grave,  62. 


Ursuline  Convent,  bricks  from,  in  Cathe- 
dral, 93. 

Vane,    Sir  Harry,    site   of  house   of,  20; 

statue,  82. 
Vassal,  Col.  John,  21,  107;  Leonard,  136; 

William,  21. 
Vendome,  Hotel,  80. 
Vergoose,  Elizabeth,  29. 
Victoria,  Hotel,  81. 
Victoria,  Queen,  portrait,  161. 
Vigilance  Committee,  14. 
Village  Green,  Dedham,  138. 
Village  Square,  Brookline,  in,  113. 
Vinland,  the  Norse,  117. 
Vose  mansion,  Milton,  131,  137. 

Waban  Hill,  Newton,  116,  119. 

Waban,  Lake,  121. 

Walden  Pond,  Concord,  158. 

Walker  Building,  88. 

Walker,  Henry  Oliver,  paintings  by,  42. 

Walnut  Street,  72. 

Walnut  Street,  Brookline,  112. 

Waltham,  3,  126-128. 

Waltham  Street,  Lexington,  155. 

Waltham  Watch  Company,  127. 

Ward,  J.  A.  A.,  sculpture  by,  76. 

Ward,  Joshua,  house,  Salem,  162. 

Ware  and  Van  Brunt,  architects,  99. 

Warner,  Olin  L.,  statues  by,  44,  78. 

Warren,  Henry,  100. 

Warren,  James,  house  in  Watertown,  129. 

Warren,  Dr.  John,  49. 

Warren,  Dr.  John  Collins,  tablet  erected 

by,  96,  112. 
Warren,  Gen.  Joseph,  13  ;  site  of  house  of, 

18;  obsequies,  24;  tombs,  27,  35,  51,  55, 

97  ;  statue,  67  ;  birthplace,  96,  129. 
Warren,  William,  comedian,  21. 
Warren  Avenue  Baptist  Church,  94. 
Warren  Bridge,  65. 

Warren  Street,  Brookline,  112. 

Washington  Elm,  Cambridge,  105. 

Washington,  George,  portraits,  12,  46,  166; 
busts,  43,  61;  statues,  41,  77;  in  Cam- 
bridge, 103,  106,  107;  in  Chelsea,  142; 
at  Munroe's  Tavern,  Lexington,  154;  in 
Salem,  162. 

Washington,  Martha,  129. 

Washington  Monument  Association,  41. 

Washington,  Mt.,  Chelsea,  142. 

Washington  Park,  Chelsea,  142. 

Washington  Square,  Salem,  164. 

Washington  Street,  5,  16;  in  Newton,  118; 
Salem,  161,  165. 

Watch  house,  Plymouth,  170. 

Watertown,  r,  126,  128,  129. 

Waverley  Oaks  Reservation,  149. 

Way-Ireland  house,  Chelsea,  142. 

Wayside,  The,  Concord,  157. 

Webster,  Daniel,  14,  33 ;  statue  of,  41 ; 
orations,   Bunker    Hill    Monument,  67, 

98  ;  Marshfield  home  and  tomb,  168. 


190 


INDEX 


Webster,  Prof.  John  W.,  74. 

Weld,  William  F.,  gift  of,  to  Harvard,  103. 

Welles,  Samuel,  121. 

Wellesley,  120-122. 

Wellesley  College,  122. 

Wellington,  Benjamin,  minuteman,  153. 

Wellington  Hills,  3. 

Wendell,  Judge  Oliver,  tomb  of,  23 ;  site 

of  house,  25. 
West  Cambridge,  later  Arlington,  152. 
West  Cedar  Street,  72. 
West  Church,  74. 
West  Lynn,  159. 
West  Newton,  118. 
West  Roxbury  District,  3,  96,  97. 
West  Roxbury  Parkway,  147. 
Weston,  117. 
Weston  Bridge,  116,  117. 
Westwood,  137. 
Whalley,  regicide,  109. 
Wheelwright,  John,  135. 
Wheelwright  &  Haven,  architects,  91,  104. 
Whipping  post,  4. 
Whipple,  Edwin  P.,  house  of,  71. 
Whitefield,scen  e  of  open-air  sermon  by,  105. 
Whitney,   Anne,   statues  by,   16,  79,  105 

former  home  of,  70. 
Whitney,  Henry  M.,  estate,  Brookline,  113 
Whitney,  Mrs.  A.  D.  T.,  homes  of,  70, 13T 
Whittemore,    Samuel,    tablet,    Arlington 

i52-. 

Whittier,  John  G., home  of,  in  Dan  vers,  161 

Willard,  Josiah,  tomb  of,  26. 

Willard,  Rev.  Samuel,  tomb  of,  26. 

Willard,  Solomon,  architect,  18,  29,  66,  67- 

William  H.  Lincoln  Schoolhouse,  Brook- 
line,  112. 

Williams,  Roger,  house,  Salem,  160,  165. 

Willow  Avenue,  West  Somerville,  tablet, 
144. 

Wilson,  Henry,  homestead,  Natick,  123. 

Wilson,  Rev.  John,  first  minister,  5,  6. 

Winchester,  145. 


Winslow,  Edward,  "  Careswell,"  168. 

Winslow,  John,  23. 

Winslow,    Rear    Admiral   John    A.,    13; 

house,  96  ;  tomb,  97. 
Winslow  family,  tomb  of,  23. 
Winter  Hill,  Somerville,  144. 
Winthrop,  139-141. 
Winthrop,  Deane,  139 ;  house  of,  140. 
Winthrop,  Fitz  John,  22. 
Winthrop,  Gov.   John,  first  house,   1,  6 ; 

second  house,  50;  statues,  18,  19,  108; 

tomb,  22,   44,    51,  66,   143  ;    Ten    Hills 

Farm,  145. 
Winthrop,  John,  Jr.,  tomb  of,  22. 
Winthrop,  Prof.  John,  tomb  of,  22  ;  tele- 
scope used  by,  104. 
Winthrop,  Margaret,  22. 
Winthrop,  Robert  C,  113. 
Winthrop,  Wait  Still,  22. 
Winthrop  Shore  Reservation,  149. 
Winthrop  Square,  Charlestown,  65. 
Wiswall's  Pond,  Newton,  126. 
Witch  House,  Salem,  165. 
Witchcraft,  documents  and  relics,  Salem, 

165;  jail  of  1692,  Salem,  164. 
Wolcott,  Gov.  Roger,  statue  of,  43. 
Woman's  Clubhouse,  90. 
Wood  Island  Park,  94,  147. 
Woodbridge,  Benjamin,  killed  in  duel,  7 ; 

grave  of,  28,  32. 
Woods,  Henry  E.,  editor,  47. 
Woodward  Tavern,  Dedham,  131,  137. 
Woodworth,   Samuel,   scene  of  his  "  Old 

Oaken  Bucket,"  167. 
Worcester,  Joseph  E.,  in  Cambridge,  107. 
Worthylake,  George,  63. 
Wright  Tavern,  Concord,  156. 
Writing  School,  first  Free,  18  ;  first,  60. 

Yachting,  off  City  Point,  95. 
Yeaman  house,  Chelsea,  142. 
Young  Men's  Christian  Association,  81. 
Young  Men's  Christian  Union,  35. 


Date  Due 

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